165 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] [ -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ] [ - The Dark Side (312) - 787 - 2174 / Exilic Xyth - Sysop / 24 hours 9600 - ] [ -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ] [ - The Modern Speeders Guide to Radar and State Troopers - ] [ - By : Exilic Xyth - ] [ - January 11, 1988 - ] [ -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ] Introduction: Touched off by the discussion on Ripco <312>-528-5020, I found many users asking questions about police radar, radar detectors, and speeding. With Ron Majors talking about the oil spill that will appear in detail on the news at ten I thought a informative file on the subject might be beneficial. I myself had my first experience with police radar in my fathers car, then following in baseball and my own driving, much more on the subject. What a fascinating device, that it will return your speed instantly, what fun one would be to have! After a quick talk with a police friend of mine, I soon took possession of a used police radar gun. Part one: Operation. Police Radar works via the doppler effect, best demonstrated by sound rather than microwaves. The doppler effect is the relation of speed to the pitch of 'sound'. Sometime, all of you must have had the distinct pleasure of being honked at by a motorist on the go, you might have noticed that the horn begins with a higher pitch and as the car passes, drowns off to a lower tone. The sound waves at the front of the car are pressed together by the forward motion of the car, creating a higher pitch. As the car passes, the tone dies off to a lower pitch because the waves are spread out. Police radar works in much the same way. The major differences are the frequency and the concentration of the carrier. As of 1988, the F.C.C. is rumored to have lifted restrictions on police radar frequencies. Before, only two frequencies were approved for police radar use. X-band <10.525 GHz> which is most commonly used, and K-band <24.15 Ghz>. I will assume for now, due to lack of any SOLID evidence supporting the restriction lift, that those are the only two in operation. Police radar 'beams' are similar in shape to a flashlight beam. They begin with a thin width and cone outwards with distance. Most guns operating at the X-band level have a range of about 2000 ft., although high power units can exceed 2500 and 3000ft., and K-band guns fall shorter at about 1200 ft.. At 1500ft., the radar beam becomes about the width of four highway lanes, so for practical purposes radars range is around 1700 ft.. A radar signal transmitted from the 'Radar Gun's' transmitter, (called the oscillator) will bounce off a object and return to the radar receiver (or antenna). If the object is moving, the frequency of the beam will be altered as it bounces. This is most easily visualized watching water ripples. Assume now that I have just dropped a pebble in a pond, and the ripples are moving outward, assume also for purposes of simplicity that the ripples are moving at 1 foot per second, and that they are one foot apart. The ripples are therefore also one second apart. Upon bouncing off a stationary object the ripples will return weakened, but at the same interval and speed . Now let us assume that a toy boat is traveling in the water at .5 ft. per second, 1/2 the speed of the ripples, away from the point which I dropped the pebble. Assume the first ripple has hit the boat and is traveling back. The second ripple now traveling at 1 foot per second is only gaining on the boat by .5 feet per second <1 ft. per second - .5 ft. per second>. This means that the ripple is one foot away from the boat, as the ripples are one foot apart. The ripple will take 2 second to reach the boat, as the closure speed is .5 ft. per second and the distance is 1 foot. The ripple strikes the boat and bounces back two seconds after the first ripple. The process works inversely for an object moving towards the pebbles point of impact. As the distance between the ripples can be determined by the speed, on the other side, the speed can be determined by the distance between the ripples. Police radar works in the same way with microwaves. The microwave signal bounces off a moving vehicle and returns altered in frequency. In this way the radar unit determines the speed of the object. Radar is only accurate when the object is moving directly at, or directly away from the gun, although some modern guns will account for this 'COSINE error', most won't. Cosine error can be defined as this: When a radar signal bounces off an object at an angle from the objects direction of travel it will return a portion of the objects speed computed by the cosine of the infraction angle. If the angle of the objects direction and the radars direction is 20 degrees the speed returned by the radar is 93.97% of the objects actual speed. cos (20) = .93969262 * objects speed = returned speed. For example: A car is traveling at 75 m.p.h.. The state trooper, in his infinite wisdom, decides to "Clock" the automobile in hopes of meeting his quota for the month. Picking up his handy radar gun, he aims, and fires an invisible beam of microwave energy. The officer however, being the rookie he is, leaves a high angle between the cars direction and his beam of 45 degrees. Cos (45) = .707106781 .707106781 * 75m.p.h. = 53.03300859 53 m.p.h. is displayed on the officers screen. Lucky motorist. Sorry 40 column users. | |\ | \ | \ - Cosine Error - | \ | 45 \ | deg.\ - radar beam | \ | \ v \ Direction of \ cars travel \ \ X - state trooper. Part 2: Application In 1986, over 15 million speeding tickets were issued, and experts estimate that over 25% of them were in error. Police have been using radar for speed control for many years, and as the technology has become more complex and accurate, so has the ability to get away with the slight infractions of the speed limits set by the government become more difficult. In recent years, the three most damaging advances to motorists in radar technology include: A> Instant on radar. B> K-band radar. and C> Cosine error correcting radar units. Instant on radar. With the increase of radar receivers, or "Detectors" on the roads, police have attempted to bypass the motorists first line of defense. The most damaging advance in the war against speeding motorists is instant on radar. The idea behind instant on radar is to make the radar detector useless to the motorist by making his warning too late to react to. Instant on radar was developed in early 1983, but never marketed until late 1984 when the michigan state troopers were equipped with the first instant on radar guns. It operates by deactivating the oscillator until triggered by the officer. When used properly and under the right traffic conditions, it is indefensible. It works like a camera, the officer operating the radar will position himself behind a blind corner or over a hill. When the approaching car crests the hill or rounds the corner, the officer will activate the oscillator, taking a "snapshot" of your car. As microwaves travel at the speed of light, any attempt at slowing down is futile, the officer behind the gun has your speed in less than a tenth of a second. K-band Radar. When radar detectors were first marketed by the markers of ESCORT, there was only one type of radar. X-band. In an attempt to increase the dwindling speeding ticket revenue, K-band was brought to life. K-band is a different frequency that could not be picked up by the primitive detectors of the age. However, as the frequency got out, the detectors adapted, and now any detector worth a dollar will detect both X and K bands. K band is more dangerous as most K-band guns are instant on and they have less 'Splash' and range than X-band guns. This means that a K-band signal is probably closer to you. Cosine error correcting guns. Cosine error was a major falling of radar in the judicial system, all readings were under question in court, the result was a gun which will correct for cosine error by determining the angle which the radar beam "impacts" with the car. Also new in correcting cosine error were guns with 'Speed lock on' in which the highest speed reading received by the gun is locked in and displayed. Moving radar guns. Until new developments, all radar units had to remain stationary as radar measures only closure speed, and not actual speed. Moving radar ended this trend. Moving radar works like this. First the radar gun determines the patrol cars speed by clocking a sign or fixed object. The closing speed of the patrol car to the sign is subtracted from the now taken closing speed to the target car. Patrols speed - 60 m.p.h. Closing speed to car - 120 m.p.h. 120 m.p.h. - 60 m.p.h. = 60 m.p.h.. Part 3: Defense From the dawn of speed enforcement, motorists have sought to defeat the laws, starting with detectors, continuing to jammers and topping out with the new 'CHiPs detectors' The unfortunate conditions now favor the police and law enforcement officials with the introduction of new radar technologies such as instant on radar. Detectors: The simple radar receiver is the first line of defense from radar. Varied in operation and features, the radar detectors of today are designed to provide high sensitivity and low rates of false alarms. Good detectors will measure signal strength and type and have an effective range of about 3000 ft. and a probable range of well over a mile. Sensitivity tops out around 110.5 dBm/cm^2 for X band and 108 dBm/cm^2 for K band . A detector can give you an excellent advantage over radar by alerting you it's there. Detectors become especially useful in chicago where instant on radar is not typically used. Jammers: Radar jammers are essentially units that transmit microwaves at a frequency dictating a certain speed. The result is regardless of your speed, the police radar unit will display the speed you set the jammer to transmit. Jammers are highly illegal and will be confiscated if discovered, expect a stiff fine. Chip's detector. This is a new device, which is really a scanner on the police radio band. It takes advantage of a signal transmitted by the patrol cars in some states as part of their dispatch system. The signal carries for about three miles, and the Chip's Detector will alert you if you are within that range of a highway patrol unit. It also allows scanning of police radio channels. Last words. Radar is a basically accurate instrument, when used properly, it can be deadly. As I have said before instant on radar is impossible to avoid when there is no other traffic around, regardless of a detector. The only thing that comes close is a Radar Jammer, which will most likely not serve you well unless it is WELL hidden. Radar jammers are dangerous with the introduction of the HAWK, a radar unit by Kustom Signals, which DETECTS radar jammers in the hold mode. Aside from radar, VASCAR is a new danger to motorists. It is basically a stopwatch used to time your movement between two point of which the interval distance is known. Using the formula Average velocity = distance / time, the state trooper can determine your speed without setting off your detector. Instant on radar defense. The only real defense for instant on radar is traffic. Traffic will cause the trooper to activate his radar gun more often, cluing you into his presence. A jammer well hidden will help, but the best technique is to follow a car making good time. Any police units in the area will clock him first, and legally they have to ticket him, unless you're too close. Remember: Do not speed, it is a dangerous practice, and I can not be responsible for any injury, or action due to this file, it is for informational purposes only. The state troopers enforce speed limits for your safety. Radar guns: Models. Radar guns are manufactured by many different companies, but the primary ones are Kustom Signals, M.p.h. Industries, and Decatur. The deadliest gun now available is the HAWK manufactured by Kustom Signals. It is the first gun capable of clocking cars moving the SAME direction as the patrol car. It has two antennas, one forward, and one back. Like I stated before, it is also the first gun capable of detecting radar jammers. These run about 2000$ Kr-11 This gun is a two piece model which uses a weak pulse signal in the moving mode to determine the patrol car's speed while not triggering detectors. This gun permits a faster clocking time for instant on moving radar, it runs about $1200 Falcon This is a hand held gun operating on K band Small and compact it is preferred among law enforcement radars. It runs about 600$ Hr-4 Hr-8 Hr-12 400,500,750$ respectively, these are hand held radar guns made by Kustom Signals All these units are available to you via me for less than the troopers pay for them. For prices, and statistics, call my board at (312) - 787 - 2174 or send me mail at Ripco (312) 528-5020 Prices for radar units range from 250-2000$ I personally enjoy harassing that 911 who barrels by at 95 with a detector. Questions? The Dark Side: (312) - 787 - 2174 Ripco (312) - 528 - 5020 The Courts of Chaos ( My sister board ) (312) - 915 - 0947 [ ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ] [ - The Dark Side (312) - 787 - 2174 / 24 hours / Too many megs / 9600 bd - ] [ ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ] [Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,=abort:161 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] <<< SPACE ABORTS >>> <<< CONTROL-S PAUSES >>> [<%: THE DARK FOREST [312] 232:8804 :%>] {=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=} {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} Picking Combination Locks {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} A Metal Communications Presentation {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} Written by: The Byte Byter {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} The writer of this text file takes responsibility for what {=--=} {=--=} this text file is used for. Hopefully it will only be used for {=--=} {=--=} illegal purposes cuz i can't think of a reason it can be used for{=--=} {=--=} legally. Well, on with the text file. {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} {=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=} {=--=} Call: /\/\etalland 1 10megs AE/BBS/Cat-Fur Line! [503]538-0761 {=--=} {=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=} Ok, so ya say ya wanna learn how to pick combination locks...This text file should help you. As a matter of fact, if ya do it right, it will help you. First of all, let me tell you about the set-up of a lock. When the lock is locked, there is a curved piece of metal wedged inside the little notch on the horseshoe shaped bar that is pushed in to the lock when you lock it. To free this wedge, you must(must is a word used to much) you usually(that sounds much better) have to turn the lock to the desired combination and the pressure on the wedge is released therefore letting the lock open. I will now tell you how to make a pick so you can open a lock without having to waste all that time turning the combination (this also helps when ya don't know the combination to begin with). First of all, ya need to find a hairpin. What's a hairpin? Well, just ask your mom. She will have one. If she asks what its for, say ya gotta hold something together... If she says use a rubberband or use a paperclip, tell her to fuck off and die and then go to the store and rip off a box of 50 or so. Ok, enough stalling (yea, i was stalling). Once you have your hair pin (make sure its metal), take the ridged side and break it off right before it starts to make a U-turn onto the straight side. The curved part t can now be used as a handle. Now, using a file, file down the other end until it is fairly thin. You should do this to many hairpins and file them so they are of different thicknesses so you can pick various locks. Some locks are so cheap that ya don't even have ta file! But most are not. Ok, now you have a lock pick. Now if ya haven't figured it out, here's how ya use it. You look at a lock to see which side the lock opens from. If you can't tell, you will just have to try both sides. When ya find out what side it opens from, , take the lock pick and stick the filed end into the inside of the horseshoe- shaped bar on whichever side the lock opens from. Now, put pressure on the handle of the lock pick (pushing down, into the crack) and pull the lock up and down. The lock will then open because the pick separated the wedge and the notch allowing us thieves to open it. Don't say bullshit until you've tried it. Because I have gotten lots of beer money from doin' this to fellow students' gym lockers. Also, this technique works best on American locks. I have never picked a Master lock before because of the shape a pressure of the wedge but if anyone does it, let me know how long it took. Also, the Master lock casing is very tight so ya can't get the pick in. So, if you're locking something valuable up, use a Master, cuz at least ya know I won't be picking it and I'm sure there aren't that many that could. And when I say pick, i don't mean lighting a stick of dynamite next to the lock, picking is opening a lock without t using force, making a substitute key, etc... If any of you believe that this information is not sufficient for picking an American lock, or any other kind besides Master, leave me a message at /\/\etallant 1 (503) 538-0761. This concludes my text file on picking combination locks. My next text file will probably be "Picking key locks". See ya later. The Byte Byter ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^ [Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,=abort:139 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] _ _ _______ | \/ | / _____/ |_||_|etal/ /hop _________/ / /__________/ (314)432-0756 24 Hours A Day, 300/1200 Baud Presents... ==Phrack Inc.== Volume One, Issue One, Phile #6 of 8 How to Pick Master Locks By Gin Fizz & Ninja NYC Have you ever tried to impress your friends by picking one of those Master combination locks and failed? Well then read on. The Master lock company has made this kind of lock with a protection scheme. If you pull the handle of it hard, the knob won't turn. That was their biggest mistake...... Ok, now on to it. 1st number. Get out any of the Master locks so you know what's going on. 1: The handle part (the part that springs open when you get the combination), pull on it, but not enough so that the knob won't move. 2: While pulling on it turn the knob to the left until it won't move any more. Then add 5 to this number. Congradulations, you now have the 1st number. 2nd number. (a lot tougher) Ok, spin the dial around a couple of times, then go to the 1st number you got, then turn it to the right, bypassing the 1st number once. WHEN you have bypassed. Start pulling the handle and turning it. It will eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove pull on it and turn the knob. If it is loose go to the next groove; if it's stiff you got the second number. 3rd number: After getting the 2nd, spin the dial, then enter the 2 numbers, then after the 2nd, go to the right and at all the numbers pull on it. The lock will eventually open if you did it right. If can't do it the first time, be patient, it takes time. Have phun... Gin Fizz/2600 Club!/TPM Ninja NYC/TPM [Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,=abort:122 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] \\_// \\\______(0|0)______/// ///////// \Y/ \\\\\\\\\ // \\ +-----------|The'"3rd"'Reich|----------+ | """"""""""""""""" | | Artificial Intelligence Log 0.04 | +--------------------------------------+ | StunGun: Deffensive and Offensive | | Strategies; Mods to kit; 10/3/86 | +--------------------------------------+ Need a weapon, but don't want to hassle the registration, or worry about being caught possesing 1? Then there is now the StunGun[s/g]...it is legal in most states. Actually, the s/g is based on the TaserGun, that the cops now use to subdue violent offenders. The s/g is a modification the the kit u buy. The kit has 2 prongs that u must actually push into the victum-which is stupid and risky for 3 reasons: 1) the attacker may mistake the s/g as a weapon and shooot u dead right there when u try to pull it out 2) the attacker may shoot u as u try to stab him with the electrodes 3) there may be more than 1 attacker The modification disguises it as a shity-old flashLight so he will think nothing of it as you zap him. Take an old beat-up medium sized flash light about 6 inches long...it has to be long enuf 2 house the p_c board, dart gun mechanism, flashLight battery etc...now, mount the p_c board into the back part, leaving nuf room for dart-gun mech...be sure to fan-fold the electrod wire so when the dart fires, it will lead nice and smooth, and fast. U might want to put in a powerful BB-gun type air-powered projecter to make sure the electrodes penetrate a thick leather jacket. If you are really mechanicaly oriented, U would best to make it reatractable, so u can zap 1 attacker, stun him for a sec, retract the elect., then zap the others... Strategies: 1) it would be best if u make the s/g still shine a light-to keep the disgise- and to avoid suspicion. 2) test the s/g out periodically on ur neighbors dog or cat to make sure the battery is up to power and the circuit's r working right--> note, if the animal goes into a convulsing, twitching-muscle lock and dies frothing at the mouth, its putting out too much wattage...tune it down a bit. U not wanto to get into the situation wher u zap some ugly-reeking ultimate bad-ass psycho and have it give him a nasty shock and start an epileptic-provoking electrical neuro-storm and he goes crazy on ya!!!!!! Its not as hard as you might think to test it out and get some practive on a human subject: The original developers paid a volunteer to pose as a human guini pig...U 2 can put out an ad in some punk-rocker bar and will be surprised at the # of low-lifes wanting to get off on this 'new drug' or 'ultimate pain dispensor' ha, one punk gang requires it as an initiation to get into their gang and if u ever wanted out, u would have to stand up for 5 full secs of 25K wat! NOte: 1 sec at 25K wats will stun ua, and posibly confuse u for a bit, as ur neurons deal with the surge of activity and u hear the crisp crack of flesh being burned away adn the bright arc of lightning blind ya...5 secs is usually enuf to knock u unconscious for 30-45 mins. 3) now that u r a certified s/g operator, here are some off/deff strategies for various situations u may find urself in some fine day... case A: ur strolling down the street one fine day in may, on the south side of Chicago, at 3am, don't ask y, ur lost or want to do some s/g practice... when a dark NEGRO pops down from an overhead fireEscape and kindly says: 'GOOD EVENING, WHITE HONKY-S.O.B-MOTHERFUCKINGCOCKSUCK-A, may ah borra 100 doll-as???...i will surely pay u back on tuesdday'...now, the best way to handle this fuckUp is to hand over ur fake wallot with fake-counterFit bills and fake ID int it...(note: incase he does get away, u not want him to l8r be caught with ur drivers liscense etc, cuz cases have been known where some dumbFuck temp. secretary has mistakenly given u his long criminal record-which could take months and major hassles to fix...) Always keep ur real wallot inside the inseams in ur jacket or pants, or inside pockets. ---> do NOT attempt to talk ur way into any kinda deal with by offering phreak codz etc, as these inner-city scums usually r 9th grade dropouts whoes volcalbulary consists of < 100 words and will not understand or believe u! Now, in tis case, u would not pull out ur s/g, rather, wait til he is running away THEN zap him!!! also note that these punks may have a gun on ya, but usually r NOT loaded, cuz they don't want the hassles of that either...but it IS loaded, the s/g will cause him to convulse and may make him pull the trigger, so its best to zap him in the back. case b: ur driving along at a nice clip along a highWay with ur rader jammer when a gang of 'mad max' types chucks a rock thru ur windsheild forcing u to jam on the brakes and stop...now, if there are about 3-4 of em, just get out ur s/g and be ready to zap the leader, u no, the big, ugly one... this will cause the other punks to scatter like flies. If there are more, and u have the retractable s/g, zap one, retract, zap the others til u have them undercontrol...BUT, if they look like they have guns or bombs, HIT THE GAS AND GET THE FUCK OUTTA THERE FAST!!! Variations on case a: if u are driving an 18 weeler thru the inner city and got stopped at a light, and u see some 'saba-haba-howba-duba' nigger standing on the corner with a pair of boltCutters lookin at ya, there are 2 things u can do here: u no that in 15 secs they have the bac doors open and are D/Ling crates...1) lay on the airHorn and run the red...2) reverse and crush em against the car behind, then floor it and run the red...if u don't wanto do these optons, then booby-trap the bac doors to zap'em... case c: u gots a burgler breaking in...if he is any good and sees ur array of strobing LEDs and thinks he can get by, rig up a motion detector to the s/g and zap him upon entry...u would then have ur sys autoScan #s til it finds help and plays a digitized voice of the emergency. Things to do: say u need bux fast, but don't wanta risk a holdup? well then, merely zap the 7-11 attendant, what could be easier?? or u may even build a remote controled model helicopter with a zaper on it to hold up a bank... they already have ultra small cameras that use CCDs, or Charged Coupled Devices that can see in the dark etc...all crontroled on a microwave freq, what can they do besides shoot it down or try to jam the freq? ...well, i think u can come up with some innovative ideas on ur own...atom...A_I oh, for info on the kit, see the Sep '86 issue of Radio Electronics mag. the kit is about $40...there is also some good info bout communications, from DC to microwave, and other shit...check it out. ave, and other shit...check it out. [Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,=abort:120 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] ---------------------------------------- PYROTECHNICAL DELIGHTS ---------------------------------------- WRITTEN BY RAGNER ROCKER ---------------------------------------- MANY OF YOU OUT THERE PROBABLY HAVEFANTASIES OF REVENGE AGAINST TEACHERS, PRINCIPALS AND OTHER PEOPLE WHO ARE JUSTASSHOLES. DEPENDING ON YOUR LEVEL OF HATRED OF THIS PERSON I WOULD ADVISE THAT YOU DO SOME OF THESE FOLLOWING EXPERIMENTS: (1) POURING DISHSOAP INTO THE GAS TANK OF YOUR ENEMY- MANY OF YOU ALREADY KNOW THAT GASOLINE + DISHSOAP(E.G. JOY, PALMOLIVE, ETC.) FORM A MIXTURE CALLED NAPALM. NOW NAPALM IS A JELLY-LIKE SUBSTANCE USED IN BOMBS, FLAMETHROWERS, ETC. NOW YOU CA N ONLY GUESS WHAT THIS MIXTURE WOULD DO TO SOMEONE'S FUEL LINE!!!! (2) SPREADING DIRTY MOTOR OIL/CASTOR OIL ON SOMEONE'S EXHAUST PIPE- WHEN THE EXHAUST PIPE HEATS UP(AND IT WILL!!)THE MOTOR OIL OR CASTOR OIL ON THE PIPE WILL CAUSE THICK, DISGUSTING SMOKE TO OOZE FORTH FROM THE BACK OF THAT CAR. WHO KNOWS MAYBE HE/SHE MIGHT BE PULLED OVER AND GIVEN A TICKET!! (3) LIGHT BULB BOMB- YOU CAN REPLACE A LIGHT BULB WITH A BOMB THAT YOU KNOW THAT PERSON WILL USE. A LIGHT BULB CAN BE MADE BY (A) GETTING A TORCH( SUCH AS A PROPANE TORCH VIA K-MART) (B) TAKING A LIGHT BULB AND APPLYING THE TORCH TO WHERE THE BASE OF THE BULB(THE PART YOU SCREW IN) AND THE ACTUAL BULB MEET. (C) AFTER A LITTLE WHILE THE GLASS WILL BECOME SOFT ALLOWING YOU TO CAREFULLY REMOVE THE BASE FROM THE BULB ITSELF(BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE FILAMENT) (D) NOW FILL THE BUL B WITH NAPLAM(GAS/DISHSOAP) (E) NOW TAKE SUPER-GLUE AND APPLY IT TO THE GLASS WHERE THE BASE AND GLASS MEET(ALONG THE RIM) (F) NOW INSERT THE BASE INTO THE BULB CAREFULLY. (G) ALLOW TO DRY AND YOU GOT YOURSELF A BOMB (H) NOW REPLACE IN A FIXTURE YOUR E NEMY IS TO USE THE REGULAR LIGHT BULB WITH THE ONE YOU MADE. MAKE SURE THE LAMP/DESK LIGHT IS OFF!!! NOW WHEN YOUR ENEMY TURNS ON THE LIGHT, HE/SHE IS IN FOR A SUPRISE. BUT BE FOREWARNED THIS WILL MOST LIKELY KILL OR SERIOUSLY INJURE THIS PERSON. FOR A GO OD TUTORIAL ON HOW TO MAKE A LIGHT BULB BOMB RENT THE MOVIE THE SOLDIER WITH SCOTT GLENN. THERE IS AVERY DETALIED SCENE DESCRIBING HOW TO MAKE IT. (4) SIMPLE SMOKE/STINK BOMB- YOU CAN PURCHAASE SULPHUR AT A DRUGSTORE UNDER THE NAME FLOWERS OF SULPHUR. NOW WHEN SULPHUR BURNS IT WILL GIVE OFF A VERY STRONG ODOR AND PLENTY OF SMOKE. NOW ALL YOU NEED IS A FUSE FROM A FIRECRACKER, A TIN CAN, AND THE SULPHUR. FILL THE CAN WITH SULPHUR(PACK VERY LIGHTLY), PUT ALUNINUM FOIL OVER THE TOP OF THE CAN, POKE A SMALL HOLE INTO THE FOIL, INSERT THE WICK, AND LIGHT IT AND GET OUT OF THE ROOM IF YOU VALUE YOUR LUNGS. YOU CAN FIND MANY USES FOR THIS( OR AT LEAST I HOPE SO. ---------------------------------------- THIS CONCLUDES THIS FILE. ---------------------------------------- CALL RIPCO (312)-528-5020 CALL PHANTASIA- (915)-821-1856 ---------------------------------------- MA BELL'S BRAT, RAGNER ROCKER DEATH TO ALL COMMODORE GEEKS WHO GIVE THE REST OF US A BAD NAME -------------------------------------- GIVE THE REST OF US A BAD NAME [Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,=abort:62 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] FUN WITH ALARMS A FACT I FORGOT TO MENTION IN MY PREVIOUS ALARM ARTICLES IS THAT ONE CAN ALSO USE POLYURETHANE FOAM IN A CAN TO SILENCE HORNS AND BELLS. YOU CAN PURCHASE THIS AT ANY HARDWARE STORE AS INSULATION. IT IS EASIER TO HANDLE AND DRIES FASTER. MANY PEOPLE THAT TRAVEL CARRY A POCKET ALARM WITH THEM. THIS ALARM IS A SMALL DEVICE THAT IS HUNG AROUND THE DOOR KNOB, AND WHEN SOMEONE TOUCHES THE KNOB HIS BODY CAPACITANCE SETS OFF THE ALARM. THESE NASTY NUISENCES CAN BE FOUND BY WALKING DOWN THE HALLS OF A HOTEL AND TOUCHING ALL THE DOOR KNOBS VERY QUICKLY. IF YOU HAPPEN TO CHANCE UPON ONE, ATTACH A 3' LENGTH OF WIRE OR OTHER METAL OBJECT TO THE KNOB. THIS WILL CAUSE THE SLEEPING BUSINESS PIG INSIDE TO THINK SOMEONE IS BREAKING IN AND CALL ROOM SERVICE FOR HELP. ALL SORTS OF FUN AND GAMES WILL ENSUE. SOME HIGH-SECURITY INSTALATIONS USE KEYPADS JUST LIKE TOUCH-TONE PADS (A REGISTERED TRADE MARK OF BELL SYSTEMS) TO OPEN LOCKS OR DISARM ALARMS. MOST USE THREE OR FOUR DIGITS. TO FIGURE OUT THE CODE, WIPE THE KEY-PAD FREE FROM ALL FINGERPRINTS. AFTER IT HAD BEEN USED JUST APPLY FINGER PRINT DUST AND ALL FOUR DIGITS WILL BE MARKED. NOW ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS FIGURE OUT THE ORDER. IF YOU WANT TO HAVE SOME FUN WITH A KEYPAD, TRY PRESSING THE * AND # AT THE SAME TIME. MANY UNITS USE THIS AS A PANIC BUTTON. THIS WILL BRING THE OWNER AND THE COPS RUNNING AND EVER-ONE WILL HAVE A GOOD TIME. NEVER TRY TO REMOVE THEM FROM THE WALL, AS THEY ALL HAVE TAMPER SWITCHES. ON THE SUBJECT OF HOLDUPS, MOST PLACES (INCLUDING SUPER-MARKETS, LIQUER STORES, ETC.) HAVE WHAT IS KNOWN AS A MONEY CLIP. THESE LITTLE NASTIES ARE PLACED AT THE BOTTOM OF A MONEY DRAWER AND WHEN THE LAST FEW BILLS ARE WITH-DRAWN A SWITCH CLOSES AND SETS THE ALARM OFF. THAT'S WHY WHEN YOU MAKE YOUR WITHDRAWL IT'S BEST TO HELP YOUR-SELF SO YOU CAN CHECK FOR THESE LITTLE NASTIES. IF YOU FIND THEM, MERELY INSERT ONES UNDERNEATH THE PILE OF TWENTIES, AND THEN PULL OUT THE TWEN-TIES, LEAVING THE ONE-DOLLAR BILL BEHIND TO PREVENT THE CIRCUIT FROM CLOSING. IF YOU SHOPLIFT AND SEE CAMERAS, LOOK AT THE BRAND. IF IT IS SURVEILLANCE VIDEO SYSTEMS (SVS) YOU NEED NOT WORRY. THESE CAMERAS LOOK REALISTIC TO THE POINT OF PILOT LIGHTS, COAX, AND SCANNING. HOWEVER, THEY ARE ONLY EMPTY BOXES. (> [Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,=abort:14 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] Copy: (>READ> HOW TO MAKE TNT How to make TNT By THE SCREAMER *s*c**re*a***m**e**r* Probably the most important explosive compond in use today is TNT (trinitrotoluene). This and other very similar types of high explosives ar all used by the military, because of their fantastic power- about 2.25 millions pounds per square inch, and there great stability. TNT also has the great advantage of being ableto be melted at 82 degrees F., so that it can be poured into shells, mortars, or any other projectiles. Military TNT comes in containers which resemble dryu cell batteries, and are usually ingnited by an electrical charge, coupled with an electical blasting cap, although there are other methods. Preparation of TNT 1. Take two beakers. In the first prepare a solution of 76 percent sulfuric acid, 23 percent nitric acid and 1 percent water. In the other beaker, prepare another solution of 57 percent nitric acid and 43 percent sulfuric acid (percentages are on a weig ht ratio rather than volume). 2. Ten grams of the first solutions are poured into an empty beaker and placed in an ice bath. 3. Add ten grams of toluene, and stir for several minutes. 4. remove this beaker from the ice bath and gently heat until it reaches 50 degrees C. The solution is stirred constantly while being heated. 5. Fifty additional grams of the acid, from the first beaker, are added and the temperature is held for the next ten minutes, and an oily liquid will begin to form on the top of the acid. 6. After 10 or 12 minutes, the acid solution is returned to the ice bath, and cooled to 45 begrees C> when reaching this temperature, the oily liquid will sink and collect at the bottom of the beaker. Atr this point, the remaining acid solution should be drawn off, by using a syringe. 7. Fifty more grams of the first acid solution are added to the oily liquid while the temperature is SLOWLY being raised to 83 degrees C. After this temperature is reached, it is maintaind for a full half hour. 8. At the end of this period, he solution is allowed to cool to 60 degrees C>, and is held at this temperature for another full half hour. After this, the acid is again drawn off, leaving once more only the oily liquid at the bottem. 9. Thirty grams of sulfuric acid are added, while the oily liquid is gently heated to 80 degrees C. All temperature increases must be accoumplished slowly and gently. 10.Once the desired temperature is reached, 30 grams of the second acid solution are added, and the temperature is raised from 80 dgregrees C> to 104 degrees C., and is held for three hours. 11.After this three hour period, the mixture is lowered to 100 degrees C. and held there for a half hour. 12.After this half hour, the oil is removed form the acid and washed with boiling water. 13.After the washing with boiling water, while being stired constantly, the TNT will begin to solidify. 14.When the solidification has started, cold water is added to the beaker, so that the TNT will form into pellets. Once this is done, you have a good quality TNT. NOTE: the temperatures used in the preparation of TNT are EXACT, and must be used as such. DO NOT estimate or use aproximations. Buy a good centigrade thermometer. The author take NO RESPONSIBILITY for any damage to persons or property for this formula. It is supplied for STUDY PURPOSES ONLY. ***s*****c**r*e*a*****m**e***r* (>*s*****c**r*e*a*****m**e***r* [Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,=abort:7 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $ $ $ SOFT DRINK CAN BOMB $ $ ---- ----- --- ---- $ $ $ $ AN ARTICLE FROM THE BOOK: $ $ $ $ THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND $ $ BY KURT SAXON $ $ $ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ THIS IS AN ANTI-PERSONNEL BOMB MEANT FOR MILLING CROWDS. THE BOTTOM OF A SOFT DRINK CAN IS HALF CUT OUT AND BENT BACK. A GIANT FIRECRACKER OR OTHER EXPLOSIVE IS PUT IN AND SURROUNDED WITH NUTS AND BOLTS OR ROCKS. THE FUSE IS THEN ARMED WITH A CHEMICAL DELAY IN A PLASTIC DRINKING STRAW. AFTER FIRST MAKING SURE THERE ARE NO CHILDREN NEARBY, THE ACID OR GLYCERINE IS PUT INTO THE STRAW AND THE CAN IS SET DOWN BY A TREE OR WALL WHERE IT WILL NOT BE KNOCKED OVER. THE DELAY SHOULD GIVE YOU THREE TO FIVE MINUTES. IT WILL THEN HAVE A SHATTERING EFFECT ON PASSERSBY. IT IS HARDLY LIKELY THAT ANYONE WOULD PICK UP AND DRINK FROM SOMEONE ELSE'S SOFT DRINK CAN. BUT IF SUCH A CRUDE PERSON SHOULD TRY TO DRINK FROM YOUR BOMB HE WOULD BREAK A NASTY HABIT FAST! !! !! !! <-CHEMICAL INGITER --------- ! !1! ! ! ===== ! !*! !"! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !<- BIG FIRECRACKER ! ! !%! ! ==== ! ! ! ! # ! ! --- ! ! ! ! <- NUTS & BOLTS ! / ! ! ! --------- [Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,=abort:126 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] ******************************************************************************* * * * El Pirata's Guild On How To Make A Chemical Fire Bottle * * Written for: Toxic Oyster Guild * * * * Formatted for 80 columns 05/12/85 * * * ******************************************************************************* Materials Required: ================== Sulphuric Acid (Battery Acid) Gasoline Potassium Chlorate (Drug Store) Sugar Glass bottle w/stopper (roughly 1 quart size) Small bottle or jar w/lid Rag or absorbent paper (newspaper, paper towels, etc.) String or rubber bands Procedure: ========= 1) Sulphuric Acid Must be Concentrated. If battery acid or other dilute acid is used, concentrate it by boiling until dense white fumes are given off. Container used should be of eenamelware or oven glass. CAUTION: Sulphuric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it away with a large quantity of water. Fumes are also dangerous and should not be inhaled. 2) Remove the acid from heat and allow to cool to room temerature. 3) Pour gasoline into the large (1 quart) bottle until it is approximately 2/3 full. 4) Add concentrated sulphuric acid to gasoline slowly until the bottle is filled to within 1' to 2' from top. Place the stopper on the bottle. 5) Wash the outside of the bottle thoroughly with clear water. CAUTION: If this is not done, the fire bottle may be dangerous to handle during use. 6) Wrap a clean cloth or several sheets of absorbent paper around the outside of the bottle. Tie with string or fasten with rubber bands. 7) Dissolve 1/2 cup (100 gm) of potassium chlorate and 1/2 cup (100 gm) of sugar in one cup (250 cc) of boiling water. 8) Allow the solution to cool, pour into the small bottle and cap tightly. The cooled solution should be approx. 2/3 crystals and 1/3 liquid. If there is more liquid than this, pour off excess before using. CAUTION: Store this bottle separately from the other bottle. How To Use: ========== 1) Shake the small bottle to mix contents and pour onto the cloth or paper around the large bottle. Bottle can be used wet or after solution has dried. However, when dry, the sugar - Potassium chlorate mixture is very sensitive to spark or flame and should be handled accordingly. 2) Throw or launch the bottle. When the bottle breaks against a hard surface (target) the fuel will ignite. Conclusion: ========== This weapon proves to be very useful in torching Assholes and/or their possessions. Use your imagination. -=> <=- (c) 1985 TOG ENTERPRISES [Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,=abort:106 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] [>------------------------------------<] [> <] [> <] [> [> <] <] [> [+%--The 3rd Reich--%+] <] [> [> <] <] [> Presents <] [> <] [> Change Machine Fraud !! <] [> <] [>------------------------------------<] [> <] [> Written <] [> by <] [> <] [> The Prisoner /// <] [> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ <] [>------------------------------------<] Okay...There are certain ways to take money out of a change machine... 1) You can blow the fucker up.. 2) You can use this quick and easy method Heres what ya do.... I. There are certain types of money changing machines...The one YOU need is the kind where ya put yer bill in the tray ,push the tray in to get yer change... II. Once you got the right machine,get a $5 or a $1 ,it helps if the bill is WRINKLED...Then tear a notch in the bill on the lower left side of the bill.Cut the notch about 3.5 cm. from the lower left hand corner... III. Now, go to the machine..put the bill in the tray and slide it in... Now what will happen is the machine will have so far read the bill right and it will spit out yer change.. Then when it reads the notch, it will think the bill is fucked up and reject it and like you will have the change and yer bill... For this to werk right you must have done this right..it does take practice but once you can do this your local Money Changer will be yer bank... oh yeah one more thing..dont tell or upload this file to to many places otherwise every fuckin person in the nation will be doin this and this file would be no use.... whatever... written by... The Prisoner /// ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ of [+%--The 3rd Reich--+%] from The Sanctuary Elite [--->503-684-0548<---] [Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,=abort:96 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% % % % <> How to make an FM wireless BUG <> % % % % By: <-> Johnney Rotten <-> % % % % <> A Cryptic Criminals/Elite Justice Society presentation <> % % % %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% What it is ---------- This handy little device can be used for two purposes. The first is a FM bug, which transmits on the FM frequency, thus making it extremely easy to pick up. The second is a FM station blocker (which can be really fun if you are pissed at someone who just happens to be listening to the radio. In this case, you can do 1 (or both) of these: A) announce through the bug (on their station) that Fred (whoever is listening) has just won 1 years supply of orthopedic shoe pads, or B) disconnect the mike, and let it fry the station.) In this file, I will make some incredibly lame schematics, which any fool can follow, (lets see you make good schematics with Apple Writer), and tell you all the junk you need (duh..) Ok, if you have no electronics background at all, go ahead and try it anyways (hell, it's not my money your wasting on parts) Required Parts -------------- (1) 2n3904 transistor............................[Q1] (1) 10k resistor (+-5%)..........................[R1] (1) 4.7k resistor (+-5%).........................[R2] (1) 1k resistor (+-5%)...........................[R3] (1) .001 uf capacitor............................[C1] (1) 5 to 80 pf variable capacitor................[C2] (1) 10 pf capacitor..............................[C3] (2) .5 uh coils..................................[L1,L2] (1) SpSt slide switch............................[S1] (1) 9 volt battery clip..........................[B1] (1) Antenna or antenna wire (3 in. or more)......[A1] (1) microphone (like one out of a phone).........[M1] Schematics ---------- --------------*-------------*-------------*-------------* | | | | | | | | | | +A1 | | | | L1 | S1 R1 | C2 | | | | | | *---- | | | | | + | | | L2 B1 | | | | - | C1 | | | | | | | | *-------------*------Q1/-----*------------* | | \ | --------* | \_________________C3 mike | | --------* | | | R2 R3 | | | | | | --------------------------------------------------------- How to operate -------------- 1. Turn on (duh..) 2. Turn the variable capacitor until you are on the station that you want to use (preferably towards either end, so if they turn on their radio, they don't get a bunch of audio feedback when they hit your station) 3. This bug does not have a long range (50 ft max), but if you use a large antenna on your stereo (like the rooftop kind) the range is greatly increased . I prefer to use a AM/FM walkman, so I can get close to the bug, and tape what I want. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- (C) January 1, 1986 Cryptic Criminals/Elite Justice Society |Thanks: Dr. Deth ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Call these cool boards: Castle Asgard.........[10 meg BBS/AE/FUR].......(818) 788-3594 Remote Hideout........[20 meg BBS/AE/FUR].......(818) 709-1079 Treasure Island.......[2 drv AE/PW: RUSH].......(414) 547-2805 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ [Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,=abort:93 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] ///\/\/\/\/\/\/\\\ <<< Pyro Book ][ >>> \\\/\/\/\/\/\/\/// by ->Capt Hack<- and ->Grey Wolf<- -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- Well, I never thought I would be doing this, but here it is: ->BOOK II<- -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- TIME DELAYED CHEMICAL FUSE -------------------------- 1) Put 1 teaspoon full of of potassium permanganate in a tin can. 2) add glycerine 3) wait 3-4 min. 4) get the hell out.. the stuff will smoke, then burst into flame.. ** potasium permanganate stains like iodine but worse [it's purple] ** the reaction will spatter a bit ->it can be messy... ** it doesn't matter if the amounts are uneven [ie. 1 part to 3 parts] -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- ALUMINUM KILLER (OVERNIGHT) --------------- silver iodide --> aluminum iodide + aluminum + silver ..or.. AgI + Al --> Ag + AlI ALUMINUM IODIDE is very hydroscopic -- it will absorb water [it will even absorb water out of the air!] SILVER IODIDE eats through aluminum -- the resulting aluminum iodide will >disolve itself< as it aborbs H20 from the air! The final result is aluminum with a wet hole in it. [the wetness is AlI solution] -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- THERMITE -------- This stuff can burn *anything*. [except Tungsten].. It's great for burning open a fortress fone [a pay phone, for those who do not know] Here is the step-by-step on how to make it. 1) First you need rust. The best way to make alot of it is.... a) get an electric train trans- former b) attach a common nail to the PLUS (+) end of the trans- former c) get a glass jar d) fill it with water e) put salt [regular table salt is fine] into the water f) put the other end (-) into water with the nail [leave the transformer out, of course] g) turn on the transformer h) let the contraption run over- night i) seperate out all the red shit [that's the rust] with a filter or a spoon. j) let the stuff dry [like on a paper towel] k) that's it! you have rust! 2) Get some aluminum filings from the hardware store [or shave your own from a bar with less that 94% pure aluminum, called duralumin] 3) Now, just mix: 8 grams rust -------------------------- 3 grams aluminum filings 4) That's Thermite!! Now, to ignite it... 5) You now need some Magnesium ribbon. To get it, you can: a) steal it from the chemistry lab at school b) buy it at the hardware store c) buy it from a chemical supply house. 6) Alright, shove the Magesium ribbon into the Thermite at a fuse. 7) Then light it with a blowtorch. [It won't get hot enough to ignite the Thermite, though] 8) last step: get the hell back. [it can vaporize CARBON STEEL!] ** my thanx to the person who wrote the file "Thermite".. whoever the hell you are..................... [put your name in if you ever get this] -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- (=> If I ever get around to it, Pyro book III will live!! (=> If not.. -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- I would like to thank Captain Hack for his assistance in generating some of this material. -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- )> Stay Around <( -=[ Grey ]=- -=[ Wolf ]=- /^\ The Time Lords /^\ \^/ ~~~ ~~~~ ~~~~~ \^/ -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- --END OF FILE-- -END OF FILE-- [Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,=abort:92 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] ==Phrack Inc.== Volume One, Issue Two, Phile #3 of 9 ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: @@@@ --] Man-Tooth [-- @@@@ @@@@ presents... @@@@ @@@@:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::@@@@ @@@@ -- HOMEMADE GUNS -- @@@@ @@@@:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::@@@@ @@@@ from @@@@ @@@@ "The Poor Man's James Bond" @@@@ @@@@ by Kurt Saxon @@@@ ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: PIPE OR "ZIP" GUNS ------------------ Commonly known as "zip" guns, guns made from pipe have been used for years by juvenile punks. Today's Militants make them just for the hell of it or to shoot once in an assassination or riot and throw away if there is any danger of apprehen sion. They can be used many times but with some, a length of dowel is needed to force out the spent shell. There are many variations but the illustration shows the basic design. First, a wooden stock is made and a groove is cut for the barrel to rest in. The barrel is then taped securely to the stock with a good, strong tape. The trigger is made from galvanized tin. A slot is punched in the trigger flap to hold a roofing, which is wired or soldered onto the flap. The trigger is bent and nailed to the stock on both sides. The pipe is a short length of one-quarter inch steel gas or water pipe with a bore that fits in a cartridge, yet keeps the cartridge rim from passing through the pipe. The cartridge is put in the pipe and the cap, with a hole bored through it, is screwed on. Then the trigger is slowly released to let the nail pass through the hole and rest on the primer. To fire, the trigger is pulled back with the left hand and held back with the thumb of the right hand. The gun is then aimed and the thumb releases the trigger and the thing actually fires. Pipes of different lengths and diameters are found in any hardware store. All caliber bullets, from the .22 to the .45 are used in such guns. Some zip guns are made from two or three pipes nested within each other. For instance, a .22 shell will fit snugly into a length of a car's copper gas line. Unfortunatey, the copper is too weak to withstand the pressure of the firing. So the length of gas line is spread with glue and pushed into a wider length of pipe. This is spread with glue and pushed into a length of steel pipe with threads and a cap. Using this method, you can accomodate any cartridge, even a rifle shell. The first size of pipe for a rifle shell accomodates the bullet. The second accomodates its wider powder chamber. A 12-gauge shotgun can be made from a 3/4 inch steel pipe. If you want to comply with the gun laws, the barrel should be at least eighteen inches long. Its firing mechanism is the same as that for the pistol. It naturally has a longer stock and its handle is lengthened into a rifle butt. Also, a small nail is driven half way into each side of the stock about four inches in the fr ont of the trigger. The rubber band is put over one nail and brought around the trigger and snagged over the other nail. In case you actually make a zip gun, you should test it before firing it by hand. This is done by first tying the gun to a tree or post, pointed to where it will do no damage. Then a string is tied to the trigger and you go off s everal yards. The string is then pulled back and let go. If the barrel does not blow up, the gun is safe to fire by hand. You should not attempt to register such a gun. Pipe Cap / / Bullet Tape Pipe / / / \ / v / / \ / !----! / v v v Nail--\ / /-!---v-----!---!-!---!--------- v --- - - - - - -!- -!-!- -!- - - - ! //----> ![][]\ ! ! ! ! ! ^ ! !--\ ![][]/ ! ! ! ! ! Wire/ ! ! \-!- - - - -!- -!-!- -!- - - - ! Trigger---> ! ! !---! ! ! ! ! :::: /! ! /--------!---!-!---!--::::--! / :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: <-\ ! !-! / \-- Rubber / / band ! ! ! / ! ! ! ! ! ! !------! Z I P G U N / <---Nail !-!/ /------------------\ /-----!o!-----\ ! O O O ! ! ------------- ! \--------! !-------/ !! !! !-! !! !! !! !! !! !! Trigger before bending /--> !! !! <--\ Place !! !! Nail nail hole here Trigger Downloaded from the Matrix: 415-922-2008 [Ripco] Which 1-183 ?=menu,=abort: [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] RIPCO Main G-Phile Menu 7/24/88 --------------------------------------- Sub-menu selections: last updated (1) Telecom Series 7/24/88 (2) Numbers 7/24/88 (3) Anarchy 7/24/88 (4) Telecommunications 7/24/88 (5) Misc. 7/24/88 (6) Apple ][ Files 7/24/88 (7) Newspaper & Law Articles 7/24/88 (8) Dox Files 7/24/88 (9) Game Solves 6/26/88 (10) Boxes 4/27/88 [Ripco] Which 1-10 ?=menu,=abort: Main Command Level [(>? [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] RIPCO COMMANDS -------------------------------------- (A)e list (B)ulletin board(s) (C)hat with sysop (D)isplay parms (E)-mail (F)eedback to sysop (G)-philes (H)elp !!! (I)nfo on RIPCO (N)ew g-phile list (O)ff system (P)assword change (S)tatus (yours) (U)sers on RIPCO (V)oting (X) Upload a file ($)system news (?)this menu.... (!)switch boards enter # of sub-board if known global read - enter any board, hit G Main Command Level [(>! [ Alt. Boards ] 1.*.Main Board 2.*.Apple Games/Trades 3.*.Technical Q & A 4.*.General Game Trades 5.*.Phone Phun 6.*.AE Message Board 7.*.Declassified Ads 8.*.Spare Board Which Board -> 8 [[- SPARE -]] Bulletins from 1 to 127 Since your last call: There are 77 new messages Read them now? [Y/N]:No [B8,1-127] Message Command Level [(>? [[- SPARE -]] (#) Number of message to read (N)ew messages (F)orward message read (S)can message titles (B)rowse (title serch) (M)arked messages read (Q)uit to main level (H)elp file (G)lobal Read of whole system (C)hange to another board (E)nter message into system (K)ill a message [B8,1-127] Message Command Level [(>Q Main Command Level [(>O Terminate Connection Are you sure [Y/N]:Yes Goodbye COHO, you were caller #81769 Thanks for calling RIPCO Connected 26 mins, 0 secs --------------------------------------- RIPCO 312-528-5020 24 HOURS --------------------------------------- uAjMR[xRipco G-Phile Menu #3 [ANARCHY] (80 column) 4/9/89 ------------------------------------------------------------------------- G# TITLE UPLOADED LENGTH OF PHILE BY BYTES ------------------------------------------------------------------------- note:for xmodem transfer of file, use X##. for ascii dump, use ## only. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- (250) How to buy Liquor Terminal Raider 7567 (249) The Terrorists Handbook Big Bop Phreak 188032 (248) Fun with Misc People Dispater! 3907 (247) Fun with Automobiles Dispater! 4553 (246) Terrorists Guide to Explosives Big Bop Phreak 19580 (245) 5 Misc Files Mastermind 13547 (244) Electronic Delay Detonator Paul Pekar 6334 (243) Computer Heisting L.E. Pirate 4631 (242) Trashing Revenge Fatal Error 10540 (241) Crashing Library Computers L.E. Pirate 4502 (240) Let's Destroy Burlington Night Crawler 8054 (239) Coin Fraud The Thrasher 2419 (238) Little fun for Chem Class The Crusher 3448 (237) How to Make Grenades L.E. Pirate 3609 (236) How to Make a Stun Gun L.E. Pirate 3510 (235) Pen Bomb L.E. Pirate 3952 (234) The Highway Scam L.E. Pirate 3241 (233) Balloon Bomb L.E. Pirate 3805 (232) How to Make Slime L.E. Pirate 3328 (231) Remote TV Operations L.E. Pirate 6862 (230) How to Make Timers L.E. Pirate 4159 (229) Getting High off Gatorade Satans Son 2181 (228) Nightime Revenge Satans Son 11696 (227) A Powerful Pipebomb Mastermind 1994 (226) A Good Cherry Bomb Mastermind 1906 (225) How to Make Good Money Mastermind 3474 (224) Fun with Small Animals Swamp Rat 6494 (223) Mail Fraud Swamp Rat 4758 (222) Traffic Light Fun Swamp Rat 3649 (221) Phone Sex Scam Swamp Rat 6310 (220) EZ Destruction Swamp Rat 4891 (219) How to Card while Living at Home Swamp Rat 6221 (218) Car Sabotage Video Vindicator 6353 (217) Better Homes and Trashing Ares the God 5659 (216) Step by Step Carding Ares the God 6779 (215) Screwing Public Utilities Billy Heif 4578 (214) Making M-80's for Profit Jeff Miller 4219 (213) Money from Payphones Charles Manson 3300 (212) Self Igniting Mixtures Number Six 32041 (211) Contact Explosives Number Six 24684 (210) Mail Fraud Josh Levinson 3542 (209) Slow Death Swamp Rat 3072 (208) 20 Way to Disrupt Assemblies Swamp Rat 4864 (207) Gerbil Feed Bomb Swamp Rat 3456 (206) Death the Sick Way Dr. Leppard 4872 (205) Auto Tailing The Falcon 7527 (204) Scanning The Falcon 10201 (203) Guerrilla War Manual I The Falcon 13487 (202) Fatal Error's Notes on Trashing Fatal Error 5329 (201) Pyro Phun III Hitch Hacker 11106 (200) Robbing Houses #2 Video Vindicator 7570 (199) Robbing Houses #1 Video Vindicator 9893 (198) BIC Balistics Video Vindicator 4952 (197) Unconventional Warfare #2 Video Vindicator 19966 (196) Unconventional Warfare #1 Video Vindicator 13061 (195) Where to get Weapons Video Vindicator 5376 (194) Carding, My Way Video Vindicator 9666 (193) Climbing Tutorial #1 Number Six 2087 (192) Shuriken Number Six 2999 (191) Smoke Screen #1 Number Six 3755 (190) Making Marijuana Beer Mark Manning 11012 (189) Making M-80's Mark Manning 4162 (188) Pranks Philip Vaughan 17466 (187) Tear Gas Philip Vaughan 4337 (186) Soviet Intellegence Marvin Lanes 8562 (185) Destruction via Electronics Marvin Lanes 5296 (184) Giant Jumping Jacks Marvin Lanes 1471 (183) How to be a Peeping Tom Brutus Macabbee 3582 (182) Shopping Malls The Skank 7424 (181) Adventures in Fraud Vol.1 Sir Collegiate 8973 (180) Check Fraud Sir Collegiate 3875 (179) How to get Anything on Anyone Sir Collegiate 2029 (178) Kill Thy Neighbor Hotblack Desiato 5068 (177) Make Chlorine Gas Hotblack Desiato 1142 (176) Poison #1 Calico Jack 6676 (175) Cable Theft The Neighborly Way Spank Y 4424 (174) Kmart & Target Fun Kracking Crue 9689 (173) Legal Highs Jim Smith 7140 (172) Canning Lurker Above 5121 (171) Pipe Bombs Lurker Above 2179 (170) Phone Sex The Skank 5522 (169) Milkcrate Bomb XTX-101 0 1556 (168) How to Make LSD Power Assist 1713 (167) Atomic Bomb Info pts. I,II,III Night Hawk 41703 (166) Making a Still Chris Allan 4908 (165) Guide to Radar & State Troopers Exilic Xyth 15659 (164) Anarchy Handbook II Hammerhead. 25141 (163) A Trashing Telex Story Super Hacker 4020 (162) How to Get Lost Chris Masters 2430 (161) Picking Combination Locks * Piglet * 4770 (160) Bar Rockets Death Ant 3930 (159) Projects for Bored Anarchists Lurker Above 4446 (158) Phlamethrower Phun Lurker Above 2051 (157) Breaking Into a House The Haj 2382 (156) Pipe Bomb Ice Man 2566 (155) Mischief Night High Octain 5125 (154) Complete Guide to Anarchy Snake Eyes 9561 (153) Fun With Bees Joe Shmoe the Eskimo 12414 (152) Mercury Battery Bomb Mike Stepansky 1008 (151) Fun with Billboards Max Headroom 6871 (150) Watermelon Bomb Flying Hermit 4647 (149) How to Blow up a Car Flying Hermit 5831 (148) Quick Postal Tricks The Enforcer 3319 (147) Nightime Fun The Occultist 7737 (146) Making a BB Gun The Sentinel 3551 (145) Getting Others to Commit Suicide Electronic Rebel 10226 (144) Civilian Warfare & Sabotage Angus Young 22272 (143) Ring Master Gun I Ralph Kramden 9088 (142) Explosive Pen Ralph Kramden 3200 (141) H-Bomb Plans Cheshire Cat 23584 (140) Astrolite Explosives Electronic Rebel 5651 (139) Picking MasterLocks Electronic Rebel 2100 (138) Homemade Guns Electronic Rebel 6543 (137) How to Counterfeit Electronic Rebel 5821 (136) School Lockers Electronic Rebel 7515 (135) Making RDX Electronic Rebel 5207 (134) Anarchy In the Snow Electronic Rebel 5419 (133) Expedient Grenades Electronic Rebel 4008 (132) Revenge Electronic Rebel 4671 (131) How to Shoplift pt.2 Electronic Rebel 5704 (130) Mail/Telephone Fraud Electronic Rebel 17740 (129) Fun With Mailboxes Electronic Rebel 7259 (128) Soda Bombs Electronic Rebel 1951 (127) Grandmas Recipe for Black Powder El Pirata' 2536 (126) Firebomb El Pirata' 3158 (125) Job Manual The Culprit 4129 (124) Making an FM Monitor Command Sozo 2304 (123) Arts of Lockpicking * Amadeus * 10240 (122) Stungun Mods & Strategies Artif. Intelligence 6912 (121) Making AFPO & NI3 Power Assist 2270 (120) Pyrotechnical Delights Ragner Rocker 3200 (119) Bell Trashing The Producer 3840 (118) Signing pts. 1,2,3,4 Lord Tiqvah 14080 (117) 10 Commandments of Anarchy Lord Tiqvah 4352 (116) Anarchist Phone Pranks IV * Amadeus * 6400 (115) Anarchist Phone Pranks III * Amadeus * 12032 (114) Anarchist Phone Pranks II * Amadeus * 5888 (113) Anarchist Phone Pranks I Otay Okay 11520 (112) Pranks Lord Tiqvah 3712 (111) Bug Detector/Car Tracker Lord Tiqvah 14990 (110) Ammonium Nitrate * Amadeus * 6912 (109) Carding II Lord Arioch 13568 (108) Carding I Lord Arioch 4864 (107) More on Trashing Elric of Imrryr 6917 (106) Change Machine Fraud The Prisoner /// 2560 (105) Commando (file 2) Ralph Jones 4352 (104) Commando (file 1) Ralph Jones 5888 (103) Meter Smashing The Black Death 5173 (102) Sugar Rocket Improvements Honest John 6400 (101) Making A Sugar Rocket Honest John 10240 (100) How to Make a Rifle Microphone Disk Phantom 4352 (99) Picking Combination Locks Dos Ranger 4864 (98) American Dynamite * Amadeus * 2304 (97) Parent Pranks Dos Ranger (96) Making a FM bug Dos Ranger (95) Murder Dos Ranger (94) Opening P.O. Boxes Disk Phantom (93) Pyro Book II Disk Phantom (92) Zip Guns Shadow Hawk I (91) Making Crystal Shadow Hawk I (90) Guide to Fed Agencies Disk Phantom (89) More Free Electricity Shadow Hawk I (88) Making Mercury Fulminate Jesse Hiy (87) Free Electricity Shadow Hawk I (86) Anarchy Files III Night Crawler (85) Quicky Bomb Shadow Hawk I (84) Cracking the UPC Countlegger I (83) Toilet Bomb Angus Young (82) Radar Jamming Red Beard (81) Pipe Bomb Bad Dogg (80) Phlasher Phinding Inspector Gadget (79) False ID Inspector Gadget (78) Coin Fraud Silver Samurai (77) Anarchy Done Right Steve Beard (76) CC'ing Made Easy Insepctor Gadget (75) M80-M100's Ripco II/Ae (74) Carding III Silver Samurai (73) Mail Fraud Ripco II/Ae (72) Anarchy Manual 3 Night Crawler (71) Pissing People Off II Dr. Nitemare (70) Pissing People Off I Dr. Nitemare (69) Anarchy Manual 2 Night Crawler (68) Anarchy Manual 1 Night Crawler (67) Picking Master Locks Judge Fear (66) Having fun at K-Mart Masked Squirrel (65) Laughing Gas Jong Lee (64) Stinkums Jong Lee (63) Smoke Screens for Cars Sir Bernlad (62) Fun with Alarms Mr. Processor (61) Car Trashing Ripco Ae 831-5427 (60) Procurement Directory Street Hawk (59) 4 Misc. Files Capt'n Crunch (58) Dr.Mads Chem Class Capt'n Crunch (57) Explosives Capt Crunch (56) Pranks Capt Crunch (55) War Tactics Dos Ranger (54) 20 ways to Sabotage School Cosmic Charlie (53) Special Warfare Manual Dos Ranger (52) Steel Casings Thunder God (51) About LSD Thunder God (50) Drugs in your Own Home Thunder God (49) Smoke pipe bomb Stee One (48) Poorman's James Bomb Dave Letterman (47) Milkmans Friend Bomb Dave Letterman (46) Anarchy Manual Metal Comm. Inc. (45) Raising Hell Metal Comm. Inc. (44) Full Auto Metal Comm. Inc. (43) Kitchen Chemistry 1-4 Stee One (42) Terror in your Neighborhood Stee One (41) Improvised Munitions Magnetic Medium (40) Making & Using Nitro Sir Bernlad (39) AT&T Forgery Silent Rebel (38) Revenge Silent Rebel (37) Explosive Pens Silent Rebel (36) Making Pocket Rockets Stee One (35) Misc. Nasties Stee One (34) Improved Explosives Ripco II/Ae (33) Nitro Ripco II/Ae (32) Explosives Stee One (31) Home Defense 101 pt.1 Dave Letterman (30) Home Defense 101 pt.2 Dave Letterman (29) Postal Fraud Prince of Darkness (28) Nitroglycerin Stee One (27) Dynamite/Household Chems. Stee One (26) Trip Wires somewhere (25) Tennis Ball Bomb somewhere (24) Tear Gas somewhere (23) Guide to Explosives somewhere (22) Chlorox-Drano somewhere (21) Chlorine Gas Bomb somewhere (20) Chemistry Class somewhere (19) Chemist's Corner somewhere (18) Breaking Into Houses somewhere (17) Book of the Unlawfuls somewhere (16) Blowing Up a Car somewhere (15) Knock Out Drops The Sting (14) T.N.T. The Sting (13) Napalm Grenade The Sting (12) Lockpicking unknown 3800 (11) Explosives SID VICIOUS 2400 (10) Revenge SILENT REBEL 5600 (9) Supplies MACK BOLAN 4300 (8) M.A.I.M Volume I RICK ROGERS 8100 (7) Soft Drink Can Bomb THE MYSTIC 2000 (6) Electronic Terrorism THE MYSTIC 5100 (5) Letter Bombs THE MYSTIC 3600 (4) Making Thermite THE MYSTIC 2500 (3) Light Bulb Bomb SHADOW HAWK I 2000 (2) Explosives SHADOW HAWK I 20000 (1) Paranoia(bombs & gas lines) THE APPRENTICE 2300 [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:1 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] Hey, check out the facts,let's see what they do for your PARANOIA: Natural gas flows through millions of miles of piplines in the U.S. One charge will blow up a gas pipeline along miles of its length since the air let into the pipeline by the exp- losion will cause secondary explosions. Of 65 pipelines,24 carry 97% of the gas which accounts for more than one-third of the nation's total energy supply. Only 4 pipelines connects the gas fields in the South and Southwest to New York and Los Angeles. Maps of the lines can be obtanied from the Dept- ment ofEnergy and by studying industry journals. Oil pipelines can be destroyed by penetrating the central pipeline cont- rol system. In one Southern city, which controls oil movement in several states. Yikes! And contrary to the argument advanced by some self-styled special- ists and the news media that few poss- ess the technological expertise to use weapons of mass destruction, it is much much easier than you think. There's a book giving location,pub- lished in the New York Times,Feb 1979, two large map pinpointing every power station and transmission line from Washington to the Canadian border. Blowing up some of these stations and lines would wipe out the electrical supply of the East Coast. For another example, the a Book called 'Basement Nukes, $6.95, by some guy named, Charles Clark. Title of the book is : Technological Terrorism $10.00 Clark shows how they canb be readily obtained by theft from inefficently guarded nuclear plants and armories. Both of the above mentioned books are readily available to anyone with the buck, how sad,huh...shit! Technological Terrorism is a nightmare scenario,and a serious warning to every one of us. That really screws up the old head. [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:2 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] EXPLOSIVES AND INCENDIARIES by THE RESEARCHER INTRODUCTION: The trouble with text books on chemistry and explosives is the attitude with which they are written. They don't say, "Now I know youuwould like to blow holy hell out of something just for the fun of it so here is how to whip up something in your kitchen to do it". They tell you how Dupont does it or how the anchient Chineese did it but not how you can do it with the resourses and materials available to you. Even army manuals on field expedient explosives are almost useless because they are just outlines written with the understanding that an instructor is going to fill in the blanks. It is a fun game to search out the materials that can be put together to make something go "boom". You can find what you need in grocery stores, hardware stores, and farm supplies. An interesting point to remember is that it is much easier to make a big e xplosion than a small one. It is very difficult for a home experimenter to make a firecracker, but a bomb capable of blowing the walls out of a building is easy. The king of explosives for the do-it-yourselfer is black powder. It is easy to make and when properly confined is capable of devestating power. CLOSEINFORM ootable powder used for spraying. It is cheap and works well. Some drug stores sell sulfur under the name Flowers of Sulfur. If you use Nitrate of Soda, it will be in the form of prills (little round beads). Bake it in an oven at 250 degrees for 10-15 minutes to drive out the moisture. Then dump a cup or two into a blender and switch it on. It will do a beautiful job of reducing it to powder. Buy a bag of charcoal briquettes at a grocery store. Put a few briquettes in a rag and pound with hammer. Dump the result into the blender, grind, then strain through a tea strainer. Mix by volume: 6 parts potassium or Sodium Nitrate, 2 parts powdered charcoal, 1 part sulfur. This mixture will burn if ignited and will explode if ignited while tightly confined. It can be greatly improved, however, by processing it as follows: Moisten with water until it will stick together when pinched between thumb and finger. Press it into a disposable aluminum pie pan. Bake in a preheated oven at 250 degrees for about 30 minutes--get it totally dry. Grind into as fine a powder as possible. A mortar and pestle is best. If you use a blender at this point, there is a danger of explosion. It is not very sensative to friction or impact, but is very sensative to sparks. If you followed these directions, you should have a fine slate-grey powder. When baking black powder, remember to preheat the oven. Place your pie pan approximately in the center of the oven. Do not set it on the bottom of the oven. These warnings are to prevent hot spots that could ignite the powder causing a fire or explosion. Something went wrong once when my father-in-law was doing this and it blew the door right off the oven. His training in military demolitions included field expedient explosives. The point is that things can go wrong even when you know what you are doing. Protect yourself at all times. Use common sense. Wear safety glasses; don't stand in front of oven, etc. HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE: Take a flat piece of plastic or metal (brass or aluminum are easy to work with and won't rust). Drill a 1/16th inch hole through it. This is your die for sizing the fuse. You can make fuses as big as you want, but this is the right size for the pipe bomb I will be getting to later. To about 1/2 cup of black powder add water to make a thin paste. Add 1/2 teaspoon of corn starch. Cut some one foot lengths of cotton thread. Use cotton, not silk or thread made from synthetic fibers. Put these together until you have a thickness that fills the hole in the die but can be drawn through very easily. Tie your bundle of threads together at one end. Separate the threads and hold the bundle over the black powder mixture. Lower the threads with a circular motion so they start curling onto the mixture. Press them under with the back of a teaspoon and continue lowering them so they coil into the paste. Take the end you are holding and thread it through the die. Pull it through smoothly in one long motion. To dry your fuse, lay it on a piece of aluminum foil and bake it in your 250 degree oven or tie it to a grill in the oven and let it hang down. The fuse must be baked to make it stiff enough for the uses it will be put to later. Air drying will not do the job. If you used Sodium Nitrate, it will not even dry completely at room temperatures. Cut the dry fuse with sissors into 2 inch lengths and store in an air tight container. Handle this fuse carefuly to avoid breaking it. You can also use a firecracker fuse if you have any available. The fuses can usually be pulled out without breaking. To give yourself some running time, you will be extending these fuses (blackmatch or firecracker fuse) with sulfured wick. HOW TO MAKE SULFURED WICK: Use heavy cotton string about 1/8th inch in diameter. You can find some at a garden supply for tieing up your tomatoes. Be sure it's cotton. You can test it by lighting one end. It sould continue to burn after the match is removed and when blown out will have a smoldering coal on the end. Put some sulfur in a small container like a small pie pan and melt it in the oven at 250 degrees. It will melt into a transparent yellow liquid. If it starts turning brown, it is too hot. Coil about a one foot length of string into it. The melted sulfur will soak in quickly. When saturated, pull it out and tie it up to cool and harden. It can be cut to desired lengths with sissors. 2 inches is about right. These wicks will burn slowly with a blue flame and do not blow out easily in a moderate wind. They will not burn through a hole in a metal pipe, but are great for extending your other fuse. They will not throw off sparks. Blackmatch generates sparks which can ignite it along its length causing unpredictable burning times. Now you have the basic ingredients to shake the earth like thunder. In the next installment or two, I will tell you how to put it all together to do ju st that. You will find that you have baked a very deadly pie. I have twice been accused of setting off dynamite in the woods. The explosive power of your little grey powder may exceed your expectations, so choose your testing ground with care. HOW TO MAKE A PIPE BOMB: Buy a section of metal water pipe 1/2 by 6 inches long, threaded on both ends. Buy two metal caps to fit. These are standard items in hardware stores. Drill a 1/16th hole in the center of the pipe. This is easy with a good drill bit. Hanson is a good brand to use. Screw a metal cap tightly on one end. Fill the pipe to within 1/2 inch of the top with black powder. Do not pack the powder. Don't even tap the bottom of the pipe to make it settle. You want the powder loose. For maximum explosive effect, you need dry, fine powder sitting loose in a very rigid container. Wipe off any powder that has gotten onto the top or threads of the pipe. Gently screw on the second cap. Hand tighten only. Place a small piece of tape over the hole and go to your test site. Remove the tape and insert a two inch piece of black match fuse or a firecracker fuse into the hole. Place the bomb behind a large rock or tree. Using thread or string, lightly tie a 2 inch piece of sulfured wick to the end of the fuse. Avoid letting the wick touch any objects. This might cause it to go out. Light the wick and head for cover in a direction that keeps the rock or tree between you and the bomb at all times. Get behind cover at least 50 yards away. You may not expect such a large explosion from such a small object. Be extra cautious until You have done this a time or two and it gets real what you are dealing with. The pipe will be blown to pieces which will fly through the air like bullets. An accident could seriously wound or kill you. This is not a big firecracker. It is more like a hand grenade. The size of the bomb can be increased by using a larger pipe and caps. To make a big noise without blowing up your pipe, cap one end only. Drill a 1/16 hole at the top of the threads at the capped end. Put in about 3 to 4 rounded teaspoonsful of powder. Pack about 2 inches of wadding on top of the powder. Toilet paper or kleenex is good for this. Pack it tight. Open up a safety pin and stick it into the hole. Work it around to loosen up the powder so a fuse can be inserted. When this goes off, the recoil will be tremendous. You will loose your pipe unless you brace it securely against something. The pipe can be reloaded and used again. A fun trick is to mount the pipe pointing upward. Drop a tin can over the open end and light the fuse. The can will be blown high into the air. Campbell's soup cans are great for this. HOW TO MAKE ROCKET FUEL: This is easy to make and fun to play with. Mix equal parts by volume Potassium or So dium Nitrate and granulated sugar. Pour a big spoonful of this into a pile. Stick a piece of blackmatch fuse into it; light; and step back. This is also a very hot incendiary. A little imagination will suggest a lot of experiments for this. ANOTHER ROCKET FUEL: Mix equal parts by volume of zinc dust and sulfur. Watch out if you experiment with this. It goes off in a sudden flash. It is not a powerful explosive, but is violent stuff even when not confined because of its fast burning rate. --- As I continue from this point some of the ingredients are going to be harder to get without going through a chemical supply. I try to avoid this. I happen to know that B. Prieser Scientific (local to my area) has been instructed by the police to send them the names of anyone buying chemicals in certain combinations. For example, if a person were to buy Sulfuric acid, Nitric acid and Toluene (the makings for TNT) in one order the police would be notified. I will do the best I can to tell you how to make the things you need from commonly available materials, but I don't want to leave out something really good because you might have to scrounge for an ingredient. I am guessing you would prefer it that way. HOW TO MAKE AN EXPLOSIVE FROM COMMON MATCHES: The word "safety" in safety matches is misleading. The chemical on the heads of safety matches is a powerful explosive. It is similar to black powder but has a lower ignition temperature (more sensative to heat) and unlike black powder is easily detonated by impact. This feature moves it up into the high explosives class. To test this, lay a paper safety match on a hard flat surface and hit the head sharply with a hammer. What do you know! It goes bang! To collect a quantity of this explosive, it is best to use wooden safety matches. Buy several cartons. They're cheap. Note that these should be safety matches, not the strike anywhere kind. Pinch the head near the bottom with a pair of wire cutters to break it up; then use the edges of the cutters to scrape off the loose material. It gets easy with practice. You can do this while watching TV and collect enough for a bomb without dieing of boredom. Once you have a good batch of it, you can load it into a pipe instead of black powder. Be careful not to get any in the threads, and wipe off any that gets on the end of the pipe. Never try to use this stuff for rocket fuel. A science teacher was killed that way. Just for fun while I'm on the subject of matches, did you know that you can strike a safety match on a window pane? Hold a paper match between your thumb and first finger. With your second finger, press the head firmly against a large window. Very quickly, rub the match down the pane about 2 feet while maintaining the pressure. The friction will generate enough heat to light the match. Another fun trick is the match rocket. Tightly wrap the top half of a paper match with foil. Set it in the top of a pop bottle at a 45 degree angle. Hold a lighted match under the head until it ignites. If you got it right, the match will zip up and hit the ceiling. I just remembered the match guns I used to make when I was a kid. These are made from a bicycle spoke. At one end of the spoke is a piece that screws off. Take it off and screw it on backwards. You now have a piece of stiff wire with a small hollow tube on one end. Pack the material from a couple of wooden safety matches into the tube. Force the stem of a match into the hole. It sould fit very tightly. Hold a lighted match under the tube until it gets hot enough to ignite the powder. It goes off with a bang. --- For later projects, like a chemical time delay fuse, you will need some concentrated sulfuric acid. So, I better tell you how to make it. HOW TO MAKE CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID FROM BATTERY ACID: Go to an auto supply store and ask for "a small battery acid". This should only cost a few dollars (about 4 dollars). What you will get is about a gallon of dilute sulfuric acid. Put a pint of this into a heat resistant glass container. The glass pitchers used for making coffee are perfect. Do not use a metal container. Use an extension cord to set up a hotplate out doors. Boil the acid until white fumes appear. As soon as you see the white fumes, turn off the hot plate and let the acid cool. Pour the now concentrated acid into a glass container. The container must have a glass stopper or plastic cap -- no metal. It must be air tight. Otherwize, the acid will quickly absorb moisture from the air and become diluted. Want to know how to make a time bomb that doesn't tick and has no wires or batteries? Hold on to your acid and follow me into the next installment. HOW TO MAKE A CHEMICAL TIME DELAY FUSE: To get an understanding of how this is going to work, mix up equal parts by volume Potassium chlorate and granulated sugar. Pour a spoonful of the mixture in a small pile and make a depression in the top with the end of a spoon. Using a medicine dropper, place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid in the depression and step back. It will snap and crackle a few times and then burst into vigorous flames. To make the fuse, cut about 2 inches off a plastic drinking straw. Tamp a small piece of cotton in one end. On top of this put about an inch of the clorate/sugar mixture. Now lightly tamp in about a quarter inch of either glass wool or asbestos fibers. Secure this with the open end up and drop in 3 or 4 drops of sulfuric acid. After a few minutes the acid will soak through the fibers and ignite the mixture. The time delay can be controled by the amount of fiber used and by varying how tightly it is packed. Don't use cotton for this. The acid will react with cotton and become weakened in the process. By punching a hole in the side of the straw, a piece of blackmatch or other fuse can be inserted and used to set off the device of your choice. Potassium chlorate was very popular with the radical underground. It can be used to make a wide variety of explosives and incendiaries, some of them extremely dangerous to handle. The radicals lost several people that way. But, don't worry. I am not going to try to protect you from yourself. I have decided to tell all. I will have more to say about Potassium chlorate, but for now, let's look at a couple of interesting electric fuses. HOW TO MAKE AN ELECTRIC FUSE: Take a flashlight bulb and place it glass tip down on a file. Grind it down on the file until there is a hole in the end. Solder one wire to the case of the bulb and another to the center conductor at the end. Fill the bulb with black powder or powdered match head. One or two flashlight batteries will heat the fillament in the bulb causing the powder to ignite. ANOTHER ELECTRIC FUSE: Take a medium grade of steel wool and pull a strand out of it. Attach it to the ends of two pieces of copper wire by wrapping it around a few turns and then pinch on a small piece of solder to bind the strand to the wire. You want about 1/2 inch of steel strand between the wires. Number 18 or 20 is a good size wire to use. Cut a 1/2 by 1 inch piece of cardboard of the type used in match covers. Place a small pile of powdered match head in the center and press it flat. place the wires so the steel strand is on top of and in contact with the powder. Sprinkle on more powder to cover the strand. The strand should be surounded with powder and not touching anything else except the wires at its ends. Place a piece of blackmatch in contact with the powder. Now put a piece of masking tape on top of the lot, and fold it under on the two ends. Press it down so it sticks all around the powder. The wires are sticking out on one side and the blackmatch on the other. A single flashlight battery will set this off. ELECTRIC FUSE # 3: An excellent electric fuse can be bought ready made at hobby and toy stores. The y are sold for setting off model rockets. MORE SPONTANIOUS COMBUSTION: Some of the ingredients for these can only be had from a chemical supply so they are not my favorites. Look for powdered aluminum at a good painting supply. METHOD # 1: Scatter out a few crystals of chromic anhydride. Drop on a little ethyl alcohol. It will burst into flame immediately. METHOD # 2: Mix by weight, four parts ammonium chloride, one part ammonium nitrate, four parts powered zinc. Pour out a small pile of this and make a depression on top. Put one or two drops of water in the depression. Stay well back from this. METHOD # 3: Put one gram of powdered potassium permanganate into a paper cup. Drop two drops of glycerine onto it. After a few seconds it will burst into flames. METHOD # 4: Spoon out a small pile of powdered aluminum. Place a small amount of sodium peroxide on top of this. A volume the size of a small pea is about right. One drop of water will cause this to ignite in a blinding flare. METHOD # 5: Mix by volume 3 parts concentrated sulfuric acid with 2 parts concentrated nitric acid. Hold a dropper of turpentine about 2 feet above the mixture. When drops strike the acid they will burst into flame. HOW TO MAKE NITROGEN TRIIODIDE: Here are some notes I took four years ago on how to make this wild explosive that can be detonated by a fly walking on it. Five grams iodine, three grams potassium iodide, 20 ml. concentrated ammonium hydroxide, filter paper, funnel. Stir the potassium iodide and iodine together in a beaker with 50 ml. of water. Add the ammonium hydroxide with stirring until no more precipitate forms. Filter and spread a thin layer of the wet solid on several filter papers. Break the filter papers into many small pieces and allow to dry for several hours. On drying, the paper is extremely sensitive to touch and will explode violently with the slightest disturbance. Can be handled safely when wet. Do not let any sizeable quantity of the dry material accumulate. --- I was able to buy concentrated ammonium hydroxide from a photographic supply. [ This is the end of the file. Thanks ] VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVRM [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:3 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] Exploding Light bulbs (_>Shadow Hawk 1<_) I actually got this from a movie, and have tried it [IT WORKS!!!]. Ok you may have to do this a couple times before you get it. Heres what you need: A few light bulbs Torch [one that will melt glass, radio shack single cylender model will do] Some gasoline Some liquid soap Some epoxy glue Heres what you do: 1) Make a hole in the light bulb like this: * --- : : Make hole here : : or here. \ / \ / / \ : : : : \---/ Not here!!!!! 2) Making the hole, like in the diagram [dont make it on the bottom, because if the seal you will make should break, the person/room you want to eliminate will notice the hole [and the gasoline on the floor!!!] whereas the if its on top it will still work... 3) Now carefully fill the light bulb about half full with gas, and then the rest with soap [hold on angle if you have to]. Now epoxy the hole shut, and screw it in... have phun (_>Shadow Hawk 1<_) -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------Reply to00JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDFROMSYS$mKBSGS [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:4 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] MAKING THERMITE BY X CALIBUR THERMITE IS A POWERFUL SUBSTANCE WHICH CAN BURN THROUGH PRACTICALLY ANYTHING, SAVE TUNGSTEN. IT IS SPECIALLY OF USE IN TRYING TO CRACK OPEN A FORTRESS FONE. NOW HERE'S HOW YOU MAKE IT. IT IS VERY SIMPLE. THE FIRST STEP IN MAKING THERMITE IS TO MAKE HEMATITE. IN LAYMAN'S TERMS, EMATITE IS IRON OXIDE (RUST). HERE IS GOOD METHOD OF MAKING LARGE QUANTITIES OF RUST. OU WILL ELECTROLYZE A METAL ROD, SUCH AS A COMMON NAIL. YOU WILL NEED A SURCE OF DC POWER AS WELL. AN ELECTRIC TRAIN TRANSFORMER IS PERFECT. ATTATCH THE ROD TO THE POSITIVE WIRE. THEN PLACE THE ROD AND THE NEGATIVE ^^^^^^^^ WIRE IN OPPOSITE SIDES OF A GLASS JAR FILLED WITH WATER. PUT A LITTLE SALT IN THE WATER, JUST ENOUGH TO MAKE IT CONDUCT WELL (A TEASPOON). LET THE SETUP SIT OVERNIGHT. IN THE MORNING, HERE WILL BE A DARK RED CRUD IN THE JAR. FILTER ALL THE CRUD OUT OF THE WATER OR JUST FISH IT OUT WITH A SPOON. NOW YOU WILL NEED TO DRY IT OUT. HEAT IT I AN IRON POT UNTILL IT ALL TURNS A NICE LIGHT RED. THE OTHER INGREDIANT YOU WILL NEED IS ALUMINUM FILINGS. YOU CAN EITHER FILE DOWN A BAR OF ALUMINUM, OR (AS I SUGGEST) BUY ALUMINUM FILINGS AT YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE SHOP. (IF YOU BUY THE BAR USE NO LESS THN 94% PURE ALUMINUM. IT IS CALLED DURALUMIN.) THAT'S ALMOST IT. NOW, MIX TOGETHER THE RUST AND ALUMINUM FILINGS. THE RATIO SHOULD BE 8 GRAMS OF RUST PER 3 GRAMS OF ALUMINUM FILINGS. THAT'S THERMITE! NOW, TO LIGHT IT! STICK A LENGTH OF MAGNESIUM RIBBON IN A PILE OF THE THERMITE. (EITHER STEAL IT FROM CHEM LAB OR BUY IT AT YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE STORE. IF NOT, ORDER FROM A CHEMICAL SUPPLY HOUSE. IT'S PRETTY CHEAP.) THE RIBBON SHOULD STICK INTO THE THERMITE LIKE A FUSE. NOW YOU LIGHT THE MAGNESIUM WITH A BLOWTORCH. (DON'T WORRY. THE TORCH ISN'T HOT ENOUGH TO LIGHT THE THERMITE.) WHEN THE BURNING MAGNESIUM REACHES THE THERMITE, IT WILL LIGHT. WHEN THE THERMITE BURNS, GET THE HELL BACK! THAT STUFF CAN VAPORIZE CARBON STEEL. IT DOES WONDERS ON HUMAN FLESH. THIS FILE UPLOADED BY THE MYSTIC [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:5 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: : : : HOW TO MAKE A WORKING LETTER-BOMB : : BY : : : : THE REBEL WARHEAD : : : ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: LETTER BOMBS ARE VERY SIMPLE TO MAKE, BUT THE DIFFICULT PART IS MAKING SURE IT WILL DETONATE PROPERLY, OR THAT IT IS NOT OBVIOUS THAT IT IS A BOMB. MIXTURES: ABOUT 75% ALUMINUM POWDER WITH 25% IRON POWER IS BEST. THIS IS A LIGHT VERSION OF THERMITE, SINCE IT IS IN AN ENCLOSED SPACE (THE ENVELOPE, AS DESCRIBED BELOW A WAYS). MIX THE ABOVE WELL. THE IDEA IS THIS: IRON CAN BURN, AT A VERY HIGH TEMPERATURE, BUT IT NEEDS A LITTLE HELP. THIS IS WHAT THE ALUMINUM IS FOR. ALUMINUM BURNS AT A RELATIVELY LOW TEMPERATURE, SO IT IS USED AS A CATALYST OF SORTS. MAGNESIUM IS USED TO FLASH-IGNITE THE ALUMINUM, WHICH THEN BURNS THE IRON, AT A SUITABLE TEMPERATURE. SINCE THIS IS GOING OFF IN AN ENCLOSED SPACE, IT WILL BURN MUCH HOTTER AND SLOWER AND WITH MORE VIOLENCE THAN A NORMAL MIX. I ADVISE YOU PLAY WITH THIS FOR A WHILE, LEARNING YOUR MIXTURE. NOW FOR THE FUN STUFF: GET AN INSULATED (PADDED) ENVELOPE, THE TYPE THAT IS DOUBLE LAYERED. SEPERATE THE LAYERS. IN THE INNER LAYER GOES THE WONDERFUL MIXTURE, ONE YOU ARE SATISFIED WITH. KEEP THIS SECTION SEPERATE, BUT IT MIGHT BE HANDLE TO TOP IT OFF WITH SOME MAGNESIUM. THE OUTER LAYER CAN BE EITHER MAGNESIUM, FOR A FLASH BOMB, OR POSSIBLY A MATERIAL OF YOUR OWN CHOICE. NOW FOR THE DIFFICULT PART! THE FUSE... WE CAN MAKE A FUSE FROM ANOTHER SET OF CHEMICALS: IODINE CRYSTALS, AND AMONIUM HYDROXIDE, IN LIQUID FORM. MIX THESE TOGETHER,IN ABOUT AND EQUAL AMOUNT, BUT YOU MIGHT WANT TO USE A HEAVY AMOUNT OF IODINE IF PRESSED FOR TIME. THESE FORM A NEW CRYSTALLINE STRUCTURE, ABOUT AND INCH LONG. THESE ARE HIGHLY VOLATILE, AND I ADVISE KEEPING THEM PROTECTED. THEY HAVE ABOUT THE IMPACT POWER OF AN M-100 FOR A TEASPOON. I PUT THESE IN A PROTECTIVE CARD-BOARD LINING, AND PUT THEM AT THE TOP OF THE ENVELOPE. RIG THIS SO IT PUTS PRESSURE ON [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:{10 [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:10 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] The Underground // [\> 714 - 929 - 0935 Black Fire <) ---------- - Captain Cloner - -------------- Q/uit Which -> done [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:11 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] -------------------------------------- [ ] [ HOME EXPLOSIVES ] [ ] [ FROM: INGY ] [ UNSTABLE EXPLOSIVE<- ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 1) MIX SOLID NITRIC IODINE WITH HOUSE- HOLD AMMONIA. 2) WAIT OVERNIGHT 3) POUR OFF LIQUID 4) DRY MUD ON BOTTOM TO HARD (LIKE CON- CRETE) 5) THROW SOMETHING AT IT! ........................................ ->SMOKE BOMB<- ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 1) MIX: 3 PARTS SUGAR ---------------------- 6 PARTS EPSON SALTS 2) PUT IN A TIN CAN, AND ONTO A LOW FLAME (LIKE A LIGHTER) 3) LET GEL & HARDEN 4) PUT MATCH IN AS A FUSE. 5) LIGHT AND RUN LIKE HELL 'CAUSE 4 POUNDS WILL FILL A CITY BLOCK... ........................................ ->MEDIUM EXPLOSIVE<- ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 1) MIX: 7 PARTS POTASSIUM CHLORATE -------------------------- 1 PART VASELINE 2) TO IGNITE, USE AN ELECTRIC CHARGE OR A FUSE. ......................................... ->CAR BOMB<- ^^^^^^^^^^^^ 1) PUT LIQUID DRANO INTO A PILLBOX (THE KIND YOU GET WHEN YOU'RE ON A PRE- SCRIPTION, NOTHING ELSE WILL WORK) 2) CLOSE LID & POP THE THING INTO THE GAS TANK 3) WAIT 5 MINUTES. 4) RUN ......................................... ->PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE<- ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 1)MIX: 2 PARTS VASELINE ------------------ 1 PART GASOLINE 2) IGNITE WITH AN ELECTRIC CHARGE [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:12 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] ]]]]]]]]]]#[[[[[[[[[[ ]] LOCK PICKING [[ ]] BY [[ ]] ^^^NIGHTWING^^^ [[ ]]]]]]]]]]#[[[[[[[[[[ SO YOU WANT TO BE A CRIMINAL. WELL, IF YOU ARE WANTING TO BE LIKE JAMES BOND AND OPEN A LOCK IN FIFTEEN SECONDS, GO TO HOLLYWOOD BECAUSE THAT'S THE ONLY PLACE YOUR GONNA DO IT. EVEN EXPERIENCED LOCKSMITHS CAN SPEND 5 TO 10 MINUTES ON A LOCK IF THEY'RE UNLUCKY. IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR EXTREMELY QUICK ACCESS, LOOK ELSEWHERE. THE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS WILL PERTAIN MOSTLY TO THE "LOCK-IN-KNOB" TYPE LOCK, SINCE IT IS THE EASIEST TO PICK. IF THERE IS SUFFICIENT DEMAND, I WILL LATER WRITE A FILE DISCUSSING THE OTHER FORMS OF ENTRANCE, INCLUDING DEAD-BOLT. FIRST OF ALL, YOU NEED A PICK SET. IF YOU KNOW A LOCKSMITH, GET HIM TO MAKE YOU A SET. THIS WILL BE THE BEST POSSIBLE SET FOR YOU TO USE. IF YOU FIND A LOCKSMITH WILLING TO SUPPLY A SET, DON'T GIVE UP HOPE. IT IS POSSIBLE TO MAKE YOUR OWN, IF YOU HAVE ACCESS TO A GRINDER (YOU CAN USE A FILE, BUT IT TAKES FOREVER.) THE THING YOU NEED IS AN ALLEN WRENCH SET (VERY SMALL). THESE SHOULD BE SMALL ENOUGH TO FIT INTO THE KEYHOLE SLOT. NOW, BEND THE LONG END OF THE ALLEN WRENCH AT A SLIGHT ANGLE..(NOT 90 DEG.) IT SHOULD LOOK SOMETHING LIKE THIS: #1 \\ \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ (THIS IS THE HANDLE \\\ THAT WAS ALREADY \\\ (HERE.) \\\ \\\ \\\ NOW, TAKE YOUR PICK TO A GRINDER OR A FILE AND SMOOTH THE END (#1) UNTIL IT'S ROUNDED SO IT WON'T HANG INSIDE THE LOCK. TEST YOUR TOOL OUT ON DOORKNOBS AT YOUR HOUSE TO SEE IF IT WILL SLIDE IN AND OUT SMOOTHLY. NOW, THIS IS WHERE THE SCREWDRIVER COMES IN. IS IT SMALL ENOUGH FOR IT AND YOUR PICK TO BE USED IN THE SAME LOCK AT THE SAME TIME, ONE ABOVE THE OTHER ? LETS HOPE SO, BECAUSE THAT'S THE ONLY WAY YOUR GONNA OPEN IT. IN THE COMING INSTRUCTIONS, PLEASE REFER TO THIS CHART OF THE INTERIOR OF A LOCK: XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| K # # # # # # | E # # # # | Y * * | H * * * * * * | O | L | E XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| #= UPPER TUMLER PIN *= LOWER TUMLER PIN X= CYLINDER WALL (THIS IS A GREATLY SIMPLIFIED DRAWING) THE OBJECT IS TO PRESS THE PIN UP SO THAT THE SPACE BETWEEN THE UPPER PIN AND THE LOWER PIN IS LEVEL WITH THE CYLINDER WALL. NOW, IF YOU PUSH A PIN UP, ITS TENDANCY IS TO FALL BACK DOWN, RIGHT ? THAT IS WHERE THE SCREWDRIVER COMES IN. INSERT THE SCREWDRIVER INTO THE SLOT AND TURN. THIS TENSION WILL KEEP THE "SOLVED" PINS FROM FALLING BACK DOWN. NOW, WORK FROM THE BACK OF THE LOCK TO THE FRONT, AND WHEN YOU'RE THROUGH..... THERE WILL BE A CLICK, THE SCREWDRIVER WILL TURN FREELY, AND THE DOOR WILL OPEN. DON'T GET DISCOURAGE ON YOUR FIRST TRY! IT WILL PROBABLY TAKE YOU ABOUT 20-30 MINUTES YOUR FIRST TIME. AFTER THAT YOU WILL QUICKLY IMPROVE WITH PRACTICE. THIS IS BY NO MEANS THE MOST EFFICIENT WAY OF ENTERING A HOUSE. IF YOU WOULD LIKE ANOTHER ITEM OR TWO DEVOTED TO THESE OTHER WAYS, LET THE SYSOP KNOW. [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:13 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] READ> NAPALM GRENADE =&=&=Napalm Made Easy=&=&= $^$^$^$^$^$^$^$^$^ Typed and uploaded by: -------------------------------=>Sir Knight<=---------------------------------- Napalm is in itself a very simple substance...it can be used for many things...(i.e. getting back at your neighor!!)Here's what'cha need: =============================================================================== Gasoline Joy or Palmolive(I prefer Joy) A Coke can with a sawed off top Ammonia Pellets A Drill Some bendable wire A Nail =============================================================================== First,make a mixture of 1/2 Joy(my favorite),and 1/2 Gasoline. Take the coke can, and fill it half full with this wonderful mixture... it should look like this: -^-^-^-^-^-^-^- ! ! ! ! <-Coke Can ! ! !=============! !=============! !=============! <-Mixture !=============! --------------- Now,take the drill(or some sharp object)and put a hole through the amm- onia pellet big enough for the nail.. Put the nail through the pellet(which I might add can be picked up at any farm supply store)and wire that to the top of the can so the nail can be slipped out easily,allowing the pellet to drop...WARNING: DO NOT LET THAT PELLET FALL INTO THE MIXTURE,AS YOUR WIFE WILL SOON BECOME A WIDOW!! Wait until you are ready to set it off to let it drop...It should look like this: (========<+>=========) ! ^^Nail ^^Pellet ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !====================! !====================! <-Mixture !====================! !====================! ---------------------- And there is your Napalm grenade...if there is enough demand, there will be another article on more advanced Napalm...... (> (> [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:16 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $ $ $ BLOWING UP A CAR $ $ ------- -- - --- $ $ $ $ AN ARTICLE FROM THE BOOK: $ $ $ $ THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND $ $ BY KURT SAXON $ $ $ $ $ $ Typed and Uploaded by: $ $ $ $$$$$$$$$$$$-=>Lex Luthor<=-$$$$$$$$$$$ $ $ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ The best methods of blowing up a car requires getting under the hood. Explo sives are placed as near the occupants as possilbe. NOTE- THIS ARTICLE IS FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO ARE NOT CONTENT TO PSYCH OUT THE DRIVER WITH SOME PRACT ICAL JOKE. IF YOU HAVE HIS LAST RIDE IN MIND, THEN READ ON: The fuse, homemade, commercial or safetey, is wrapped a few turns around the exhause manifold. After a few min- utes on the road the exhaust manifold gets almost red hot and ignites the fuse. This way is more certain than wiring the car because since it blows up on the road the wreck will do the victem in even if the blast doesn't. Besides, if the intended victim is a passenger instead of the driver, the driver may start the engine before the passenger gets into the car... You can see how embarrassing that would be to the bomber, can't you? Old-fashioned types, like the Mafia, love to wire cars. They are too set in thier ways to change and besides, they get a charge out of seeing a car blow up before thier eyes instead of imagining it going to hell on the road. They usually use about three sticks of dynamite, two lengths of electric wire with two alligator clips for quick attachment, and an electric blasting cap. The cap is stuck into a dynamite stick and its two wires are connected to the two electric wires. Then one alligator clip is clamped to the input side of the coil and the other is fastened to any metal surface in the car's frame as a ground. This is very simple and you'd think anyone could do it. But sure enough, there are always morons who will attach one clamp to a spark plug and one to a ground. This usually results in mis fires and no end of frustrations. ---------------------------------------- Call The Morgue at:(201)376-4462 The Armoury at:(201)267-1207 [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:19 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] CHEMIST'S CORNER ARTICLE #1: EXPLOSIVES BY ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG UPLOADED BY -THE TRIXTER- THIS ARTICLE DEALS WITH THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CREATING SOME DANGEROUS EXPLOSIVE S. IF YOU INTEND TO MAKE ANY OF THESE EXPLOSIVES, DO SO IN SMALL AMOUNTS ONLY, AS THEY ARE ALL DANGEROUS AND COULD SERIOUSLY INJURE OR KILL YOU IF DONE IN LAR GER AMOUNTS. IF YOU DON'T KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT CHEMISTRY, DON'T DO THESE EXPERIM ENTS! I AM NOT JOKING IN GIVING THIS WARNING. UNLESS YOU HAVE A DEATH WISH, YOU SHOULDN'T TRY ANY OF THE FOLLOWING UNLESS YOU HAVE HAD PRIOR EXPERIENCE WITH C HEMICALS. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURY OR DAMAGE CAUSED BY PEOPLE USING THIS INFO RMATION. IT IS PROVIDED FOR USE BY PEOPLE KNOWLEDGABLE IN CHEMISTRY WHO ARE INT ERESTED IN SUCH EXPERIMENTS AND CAN SAFELY HANDLE SUCH EXPERIMENTS. =============================================================================== I. COMMON "WEAK" EXPLOSIVES. A. GUNPOWDER: 75% POTASSIUM NITRATE 15% CHARCOAL 10% SULFUR THE CHEMICALS SHOULD BE GROUND INTO A FINE POWDER (SEPERATELY!) WITH A MO RTER & PESTLE. IF GUNPOWDER IS IGNITED IN THE OPEN, IT BURNS FIERCELY, BUT IF I N A CLOSED SPACE IT BUILDS UP PRESSURE FROM THE RELEASED GASES AND CAN EXPLODE THE CONTAINER. GUNPOWDER WORKS LIKE THIS: THE POTASSIUM NITRATE OXIDIZES THE CH ARCOAL AND SULFUR, WHICH THEN BURN FIERCELY. CARBON DIOXIDE AND SULFUR DIOXIDE ARE THE GASES RELEASED. B. AMMONAL: AMMONAL IS A MIXTURE OF AMMONIUM NITRATE (A STRONG OXIDIZER) WITH ALUMINUM POWDER (THE 'FUEL' IN THIS CASE). I AM NOT SURE OF THE % COMPOSITION FOR AMMON AL, SO YOU MAY WANT TO EXPERIMENT A LITTLE USING SMALL AMOUNTS. C. CHEMICALLY IGNITED EXPLOSIVES: 1. A MIXTURE OF 1 PART POTASSIUM CHLORATE TO 3 PARTS TABLE SUGAR (SUCROSE) BU RNS FIERCELY AND BRIGHTLY (SIMILAR TO THE BURNING OF MAGNESIUM) WHEN 1 DROP OF CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID IS PLACED ON IT. WHAT OCCURS IS THIS: WHEN THE ACID IS ADDED IT REACTS WITH THE POTASSIUM CHLORATE TO FORM CHLORINE DIOXIDE, WHICH EXPLODES ON FORMATION, BURNING THE SUGAR AS WELL. 2. USING VARIOUS CHEMICALS, I HAVE DEVELOPED A MIXTURE THAT WORKS VERY WELL F OR IMITATING VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS. I HAVE GIVEN IT THE NAME 'MPG VOLCANITE' (TM). HERE IT IS: POTASSIUM CHLORATE + POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE + AMMONIUM NITRATE + AM MONIUM DICHROMATE + POTASSIUM NITRATE + SUGAR + SULFUR + IRON FILINGS + CHARCOA L + ZINC DUST + SOME COLORING AGENT. (SCARLET= STRONTIUM NITRATE, PURPLE= IODIN E CRYSTALS, YELLOW= SODIUM CHLORIDE, CRIMSON= CALCIUM CHLORIDE, ETC...). 3. SO, DO YOU THINK WATER PUTS OUT FIRES? IN THIS ONE, IT STARTS IT. MIXTURE: AMMONIUM NITRATE + AMMONIUM CHLORIDE + IODINE + ZINC DUST. WHEN A DROP OR TWO OF WATER IS ADDED, THE AMMONIUM NITRATE FORMS NITRIC ACID WHICH REACTS WITH THE ZINC TO PRODUCE HYDROGEN AND HEAT. THE HEAT VAPORIZES THE IODINE (GIVING OFF P URPLE SMOKE) AND THE AMMONIUM CHLORIDE (BECOMES PURPLE WHEN MIXED WITH IODINE V APOR). IT ALSO MAY IGNITE THE HYDROGEN AND BEGIN BURNING. AMMONIUM NITRATE: 8 GRAMS AMMONIUM CHORIDE: 1 GRAM ZINC DUST: 8 GRAMS IODINE CRYSTALS: 1 GRAM 4. POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE + GLYCERINE WHEN MIXED PRODUCES A PURPLE-COLORED FL AME IN 30 SECS-1 MIN. WORKS BEST IF THE POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE IS FINELY GROUND . 5. CALCIUM CARBIDE + WATER RELEASES ACETYLENE GAS (HIGHLY FLAMMABLE GAS USED IN BLOW TORCHES...) II. THERMITE REACTION. THE THERMITE REACTION IS USED IN WELDING, BECAUSE IT GENERATES MOLTEN IRON AN D TEMPERATURES OF 3500 C (6000F+). IT USES ONE OF THE PREVIOUS REACTIONS THAT I TALKED ABOUT TO START IT! STARTER=POTASSIUM CHLORATE + SUGAR MAIN PT.= IRON (III) OXIDE + ALUMINUM POWDER (325 MESH OR FINER) PUT THE POTASSIUM CHLORARE + SUGAR AROUND AND ON TOP OF THE MAIN PT. TO STA RT THE REACTION, PLACE ONE DROP OF CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID ON TOP OF THE STA RTER MIXTURE. STEP BACK! THE RATIOS ARE: 3 PARTS IRON(III) OXIDE TO 1 PART ALUM INUM POWDER TO 1 PART POTASSIUM CHLORATE TO 1 PART SUGAR. WHEN YOU FIRST DO IT, TRY 3G:1G:1G:1G! ALSO, THERE IS AN ALTERNATIVE STARTER FOR THE THERMITE REACTION. THE ALTERNATI VE IS POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE + GLYCERINE. AMOUNTS: 55G IRON(III) OXIDE, 15G ALU MINUM POWDER, 25G POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE, 6ML GLYCERINE. III. NITROGEN-CONTAINING HIGH EXPLOSIVES. A. MERCURY(II) FULMINATE TO PRODUCE MERCURY(II) FULMINATE, A VERY SENSITIVE SHOCK EXPLOSIVE, ONE M IGHT ASSUME THAT IT COULD BE FORMED BY ADDING FULMINIC ACID TO MERCURY. THIS IS SOMEWHAT DIFFICULT SINCE FULMINIC ACID IS VERY UNSTABLE AND CANNOT BE PURCHASE D. I DID SOME RESEARCH AND FIGURED OUT A WAY TO MAKE IT WITHOUT FULMINIC ACID. YOU ADD 2 PARTS NITRIC ACID TO 2 PARTS ALCOHOL TO 1 PART MERCURY. THIS IS THEOR ETICAL (I HAVE NOT YET TRIED IT) SO PLEASE, IF YOU TRY THIS, DO IT IN VERY* SMA LL AMOUNTS AND TELL ME THE RESULTS. B. NITROGEN TRIIODIDE NITROGEN TRIIODIDE IS A VERY POWERFUL AND VERY SHOCK SENSITIVE EXPLOSIVE. NEVER STORE IT AND BE CARFUL WHEN YOU'RE AROUND IT- SOUND, AIR MOVEMENTS, AND OTHER TINY THINGS COULD SET IT OFF. MATERIALS- 2-3G IODINE 15ML CONC. AMMONIA 8 SHEETS FILTER PAPER 50ML BEAKER FEATHER MOUNTED ON A TWO METER POLE EAR PLUGS TAPE SPATULA STIRRING ROD ADD 2-3G IODINE TO 15ML AMMONIA IN THE 50ML BEAKER. STIR, LET STAND FOR 5 MIN UTES. DO THE FOLLOWING WITHIN 5 MINUTES! RETAIN THE SOLID, DECANT THE LIQUID (POUR OFF THE LIQUID BUT KEEP THE BROWN SOLID...). SCAPE THE BROWN RESIDUE OF NITROGEN TRIIODIDE ONTO A STACK OF FOUR S HEETS OF FILTER PAPER. DIVIDE SOLID INTO FOUR PARTS, PUTTING EACH ON A SEPERATE SHEET OF DRY FILTER PAPER. TAPE IN POSITION, LEAVE TO DRY UNDISTURBED FOR AT L EAST 30 MINUTES (PREFERRABLY LONGER). TO DETONATE, TOUCH WITH FEATHER. (WEAR EA R PLUGS WHEN DETONATING OR COVER EARS- IT IS VERY LOUD!) C. CELLULOSE NITRATE (GUNCOTTON) COMMONLY KNOWN AS SMOKELESS POWDER, NITROCELLULOSE IS EXACTLY THAT- IT D OES NOT GIVE OFF SMOKE WHEN IT BURNS. MATERIALS- 70ML CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID 30ML CONCENTRATED NITRIC ACID 5G ABSORBENT COTTON 250ML 1M SODIUM BICARBONATE 250ML BEAKER ICE BATH TONGS PAPER TOWELS PLACE 250ML BEAKER IN THE ICE BATH, ADD 70ML SULFURIC ACID, 30 ML NITRIC ACI D. DIVIDE COTTON INTO .7G PIECES. WITH TONGS, IMMERSE EACH PIECE IN THE ACID SO LUTION FOR 1 MINUTE. NEXT, RINSE EACH PIECE IN 3 SUCCESSIVE BATHS OF 500ML WATE R. USE FRESH WATER FOR EACH PIECE. THEN IMMERSE IN 250ML 1M SODIUM BICARBONATE. IF IT BUBBLES, RINSE IN WATER ONCE MORE UNTIL NO BUBBLING OCCURS. SQUEEZE DRY AND SPREAD ON PAPER TOWELS TO DRY OVERNIGHT. D. NITROGLYCERINE NITROGLYCERINE IS A *VERY* DANGEROUS SHOCK SENSITIVE EXPLOSIVE. IT IS USED IN MAKING DYNAMITE, AMONG OTHER THINGS. I AM NOT SURE AS TO THE PROPORTIONS AND AMOUNTS OF CHEMICALS TO BE USED, SO I SHALL USE ESTIMATES. MATERIALS- 70ML CONC. SULFURIC ACID 30ML CONC. NITRIC ACID 10 ML GLYCERINE ICE BATH 150ML BEAKER PUT THE 150ML BEAKER IN THE ICE BATH AND MAKE SURE THAT IT IS VERY COLD. SLO WLY ADD THE 70ML SULFURIC AND 30ML NITRIC ACIDS TO THE BEAKER, TRYING TO MAINTA IN A LOW TEMPERATURE. WHEN THE TEMPERATURE STARTS TO LEVEL OFF, ADD ABOUT 10ML GLYCERINE. IF IT TURNS BROWN OR LOOKS FUNNY, **RUN LIKE HELL**. WHEN NITROGLYCE RINE TURNS BROWN, THAT MEANS IT'S READY TO EXPLODE... IF IT STAYS CLEAR AND ALL WORKS WELL, KEEP THE TEMPERATURE AS LOW AS YOU CAN AND LET IT SIT FOR A FEW HO URS. YOU THEN SHOULD HAVE SOME NITROGLYCERINE, PROBABLY MIXED WITH NITRIC AND S ULFURIC ACIDS. WHEN YOU SET IT OFF, YOU MUST NOT BE NEARBY. NITROGLYCERINE CAN FILL 10,000 TIMES ITS ORIGINAL AREA WITH EXPANDING GASES. THIS MEANS THAT IF YO U HAVE 10ML'S OF NITROGLYCERINE IN THERE, IT WILL PRODUCE SOME 100,000ML'S OF G ASES. TO MAKE IT INTO DYNAMITE, THE NITROGLYCERINE MUST BE ABSORBED INTO SOMETHING LIKE WOOD PULP OR DIAMAECEOUS EARTH (SPELLED SOMETHING LIKE THAT). IV. OTHER STUFF A. PEROXYACETONE PEROXYACETONE IS EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE AND HAS BEEN REPORTED TO BE SHOCK SENSI TIVE. MATERIALS- 4ML ACETONE 4ML 30% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 4 DROPS CONC. HYDROCHLORIC ACID 150MM TEST TUBE ADD 4ML ACETONE AND 4ML HYDROGEN PEROXIDE TO THE TEST TUBE. THEN ADD 4 DROPS C ONCENTRATED HYDROCHLORIC ACID. IN 10-20 MINUTES A WHITE SOLID SHOULD BEGIN TO A PPEAR. IF NO CHANGE IS OBSERVED, WARM THE TEST TUBE IN A WATER BATH AT 40 CELSI US. ALLOW THE REACTION TO CONTINUE FOR TWO HOURS. SWIRL THE SLURRY AND FILTER I T. LEAVE OUT ON FILTER PAPER TO DRY FOR AT LEAST TWO HOURS. TO IGNITE, LIGHT A CANDLE TIED TO A METER STICK AND LIGHT IT (WHILE STAYING AT LEAST A METER AWAY) . B. SMOKE SMOKE SMOKE... THE FOLLOWING REACTION SHOULD PRODUCE A FAIR AMOUNT OF SMOKE. SINCE THIS REA CTION IS NOT ALL THAT DANGEROUS YOU CAN USE LARGER AMOUNTS IF NECESSARY FOR LAR GER AMOUNTS OF SMOKE. 6G ZINC POWDER 1G SULFUR POWDER INSERT A RED HOT WIRE INTO THE PILE, STEP BACK. A LOT OF SMOKE SHOULD BE CR EATED. THERE ARE MANY OTHER EXPERIMENTS I COULD HAVE INCLUDED, BUT I WILL SAVE THEM F OR THE NEXT CHEMIST'S CORNER ARTICLE. UPCOMING ARTICLES WILL INCLUDE GLOW-IN-TH E-DARK REACTIONS, 'PARTY' REACTIONS, THINGS YOU CAN DO WITH HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS , AND MORE... I WOULD LIKE TO GIVE CREDIT TO A BOOK BY SHAKASHARI ENTITLED "CHEMICAL DEMONST RATIONS" FOR A FEW OF THE PRECISE AMOUNTS OF CHEMICALS IN SOME EXPERIMENTS. THIS IS IT FOR CHEMIST'S CORNER #1... LOOK FOR CHEMIST'S CORNER #2: WHAT TO DO WITH HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS... ...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG! --------------------------------------- THE CHEMIST'S CORNER ARTICLE #2: HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS BY ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG THIS ARTICLE DEALS WITH INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO DO SOME INTERESTING EXPERIMENTS WITH COMMON HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS. SOME MAY OR MAY NOT WORK DEPENDING ON THE CON CENTRATION OF CERTAIN CHEMICALS IN DIFFERENT AREAS AND BRANDS. I WOULD SUGGEST THAT THE PERSON DOING THESE EXPERIMENTS HAVE SOME KNOWLEDGE OF CHEMISTRY, ESPEC IALLY FOR THE MORE DANGEROUS EXPERIMENTS. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURY OR DAMAGE CAUSED BY PEOPLE USING THIS INFO RMATION. IT IS PROVIDED FOR USE BY PEOPLE KNOWLEDGABLE IN CHEMISTRY WHO ARE INT ERESTED IN SUCH EXPERIMENTS AND CAN SAFELY HANDLE SUCH EXPERIMENTS. =============================================================================== I. A LIST OF HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR COMPOSITION VINEGAR: 3-5% ACETIC ACID BAKING SODA: SODIUM BICARBONATE DRAIN CLEANERS: SODIUM HYDROXIDE SANI-FLUSH: 75% SODIUM BISULFATE AMMONIA WATER: AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE CITRUS FRUIT: CITRIC ACID TABLE SALT: SODIUM CHLORIDE SUGAR: SUCROSE MILK OF MAGNESIA- MAGNESIUM HYDROXIDE TINCTURE OF IODINE- 47% ALCOHOL, 4% IODINE RUBBING ALCOHOL- 70 OR 99% (DEPENDS ON BRAND) ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL (DO NOT DRINK!) ETC... EXP #1: YE OLD FIZZ EXPERIMENT MIX VINEGAR WITH BAKING SODA. IT PRODUCES SODIUM ACETATE AND CARBONIC ACID. CA RBONIC ACID QUICKLY DECOMPOSES INTO CARBON DIOXIDE AND WATER, RESULTING IN THE "FIZZ". THIS SIMPLE REACTION CAN BE CONTAINED IN A SMALL BOTTLE OR SOMETHING, AND WHEN ENOUGH PRESSURE BUILDS UP IT WILL BREAK OPEN. I SINCERELY DOUBT THAT IT WILL B LOW "ALL FOUR WALLS OFF THE HOUSE" AS SOME LOSER WROTE IN HIS SAFEHOUSE ARTICLE . THE SAME BASIC THING CAN BE DONE WITH DRY ICE & WATER, BAKING POWDER & WATER, CITRIC ACID & BAKING SODA, AND MANY OTHER COMBINATIONS. EXP #2: A FRUITY BATTERY IF YOU'RE EVER IN NEED OF A LITTLE POWER, GET YOUR HANDS ON THESE: A CITRUS FRUIT (LEMON, ORANGE, ETC) A SMALL ZINC STRIP A SMALL COPPER STRIP JUST STICK THE ZINC STRIP IN ONE END OF A LEMON AND A COPPER STRIP IN THE OTH ER. YOU NOW HAVE A 1.5 VOLT BATTERY! JUST ATTACH THE WIRES TO THE COPPER & ZINC STRIPS... EXP #3: GENERATING CHLORINE GAS THIS IS SLIGHTLY MORE DANGEROUS THAN THE OTHER TWO EXPERIMENTS, SO YOU SHOUILD KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING BEFORE YOU TRY THIS... EVER WONDER WHY AMMONIA BOTTLES ALWAYS SAY 'DO NOT MIX WITH CHLORINE BLEACH', AND VISA-VERSA? THAT'S BECAUSE IF YOU MIX AMMONIA WATER WITH AJAX OR SOMETHING LIKE IT, IT WILL GIVE OFF CHLORINE GAS. TO CAPTURE IT, GET A LARGE BOTTLE AND P UT AJAX IN THE BOTTOM. THEN POUR SOME AMMONIA DOWN INTO THE BOTTLE. SINCE THE C HLORINE IS HEAVIER THAN AIR, IT WILL STAY DOWN IN THERE UNLESS YOU USE LARGE AM OUNTS OF EITHER AJAX OR AMMONIA (DON'T!). FOR SOMETHING FUN TO DO WITH CHLORINE STAY TUNED.... EXP #4: CHLORINE + TURPENTINE TAKE A SMALL CLOTH OR RAG AND SOAK IT IN TURPENTINE. QUICKLY DROP IT INTO THE BOTTLE OF CHLORINE. IT SHOULD GIVE OFF A LOT OF BLACK SMOKE AND PROBABLY START BURNING... EXP #5: GENERATING HYDROGEN GAS TO GENERATE HYDROGEN, ALL YOU NEED IS AN ACID AND A METAL THAT WILL REACT WITH THAT ACID. TRY VINEGAR (ACETIC ACID) WITH ZINC, ALUMINUM, MAGNESIUM, ETC. YOU CAN COLLECT HYDROGEN IN SOMETHING IF YOU NOTE THAT IT IS LIGHTER THAN AIR.... L IGHT A SMALL AMOUNT AND IT BURNS WITH A SMALL *POP*. ANOTHER WAY OF CREATING HYDROGEN IS BY THE ELECTROLYSIS OF WATER. THIS INVOLVE S SEPERATING WATER (H2O) INTO HYDROGEN AND OXYGEN BY AN ELECTRIC CURRENT. TO DO THIS, YOU NEED A 6-12 VOLT BATTERY, TWO TEST TUBES, A LARGE BOWL, TWO CARBON E LECTRODES (TAKE THEM OUT OF AN UNWORKING 6-12 VOLT BATTERY), AND TABLE SALT. DI SSOLVE THE SALT IN A LARGE BOWL FULL OF WATER. SUBMERGE THE TWO TEST TUBES IN T HE WATER AND PUT THE ELECTRODES INSIDE THEM, WITH THE MOUTH OF THE TUBE AIMING DOWN. CONNECT THE BATTERY TO SOME WIRE GOING DOWN TO THE ELECTRODES. THIS WILL WORK FOR A WHILE, BUT CHLORINE WILL BE GENERATED ALONG WITH THE OXYGEN WHICH WI LL UNDOUBTEDLY CORRODE YOUR COPPER WIRES LEADING TO THE CARBON ELECTRODES... (T HE TABLE SALT IS BROKEN UP INTO CHLORINE AND SODIUM IONS, THE CHLORINE COMES OF F AS A GAS WITH OXYGEN WHILE SODIUM REACTS WITH THE WATER TO FORM SODIUM HYDROX IDE....). THEREFORE, IF YOU CAN GET YOUR HANDS ON SOME SULFURIC ACID, USE IT IN STEAD. IT WILL NOT AFFECT THE REACTION OTHER THAN MAKING THE WATER CONDUCT ELEC TRICITY. EXP #6: HYRDOGEN + CHLORINE TAKE THE TEST TUBE OF HYDROGEN AND COVER THE MOUTH WITH YOUR THUMB. KEEP IT IN VERTED, AND BRING IT NEAR THE BOTTLE OF CHLORINE (NOT ONE THAT HAS REACTED WITH TURPENTINE). SAY "GOODBYE TEST TUBE", AND DROP IT INTO THE BOTTLE. THE HYDROGE N AND CHLORINE SHOULD REACT AND POSSIBLY EXPLODE (DEPENDING ON PURITY AND AMOUN T OF EACH GAS). AN INTERESTING THING ABOUT THIS IS THEY WILL NOT REACT IF IT IS DARK AND NO HEAT OR OTHER ENERGY IS AROUND. WHEN A LIGHT IS TURNED ON, ENOUGH ENERGY IS PRESENT TO CAUSE THEM TO REACT... EXP #7: PREPARATION OF OXYGEN GET SOME HYDROGEN PEROXIDE (FROM A DRUG STORE) AND MANGANESE DIOXIDE (FROM A B ATTERY- IT'S A BLACK POWDER). MIX THE TWO IN A BOTTLE, AND THEY GIVE OFF OXYGEN . IF THE BOTTLE IS STOPPERED, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP AND SHOOT IT OFF. TRY LIGH TING A WOOD SPLINT AND STICKING IT (WHEN ONLY GLOWING) INTO THE BOTTLE. THE OXY GEN WILL MAKE IT BURST INTO FLAME. EXPERIMENT WITH IT. THE OXYGEN WILL ALLOW TH INGS TO BURN BETTER... EXP #8: ALCOHOL BUY SOME RUBBING ALCOHOL IN A DRUG STORE. USUALLY THIS IS EITHER 70% OR 99% AL COHOL AND BURNS JUST GREAT. YOU CAN SOAK A TOWEL IN WATER AND THEN IN ACOHOL, L IGHT THE TOWEL, AND WHEN IT FINISHES BURNING THE ALCOHOL, THE FLAME SHOULD GO O UT AND LEAVE THE TOWEL UNHARMED. NICE FOR "PARTY TRICKS", ETC. EXP #9: IODINE? TINCTURE OF IODINE CONTAINS MAINLY ALCOHOL AND A LITTLE IODINE. TO SEPERATE TH EM, PUT THE TINCTURE OF IODINE IN A METAL LID TO A BOTTLE AND HEAT IT OVER A CA NDLE. HAVE A STAND HOLDING ANOTHER METAL LID DIRECTLY OVER THE TINCTURE (ABOUT 4-6 INCHES ABOVE IT) WITH ICE ON TOP OF IT. THE ALCOHOL SHOULD EVAPORATE, AND T HE IODINE SHOULD SUBLIME, BUT SHOULD REFORM IODINE CRYSTALS ON THE COLD METAL L ID DIRECTLY ABOVE. IF THIS WORKS (I HAVEN'T TRIED), YOU CAN USE THE IODINE ALON G WITH HOUSEHOLD AMMONIA TO FORM NITROGEN TRIIODIDE (DISCUSSED IN ARTICLE #1). EXP #10: GRAIN-ELEVATOR EXPLOSION! WANT TO TRY YOUR OWN 'GRAIN-ELEVATOR EXPLOSION'? GET A CANDLE AND SOME FLOUR.. . LIGHT THE CANDLE AND PUT SOME FLOUR IN YOUR HAND. TRY VARIOUS WAYS OF GETTING THE FLOUR TO LEAVE YOUR HAND AND BECOME DUST RIGHT OVER THE CANDLE FLAME. THE ENORMOUS SURFACE AREA ALLOWS ALL THE TINY DUST PARTICLES TO BURN, WHICH THEY DO AT ABOUT THE SAME TIME, COMBINING TO FORM A FIREBALL EFFECT. IN GRAIN ELEVATOR S, MUCH THE SAME THING HAPPENS. IF YOU CAN GET YOUR HANDS ON SOME LYCOPODIUM PO WDER, DO. THIS WILL WORK MUCH BETTER, CREATING HUGE FIREBALLS THAT ARE UNEXPECT ED. THAT'S ENOUGH FOR NOW... MORE TO COME IN LATER CHEMIST'S CORNER ARTICLES... ...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG! TRIXS OF THE TRADE...APPLE-BOOTLEGGER /-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/ [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:22 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] ************************************ * A N O T H E R B O M B ! ! ! * * CHLOROX-DRAINO * * * * By * * The Mortician * * Sysop of: * * The Morgue * * (201)376-4462 * ************************************ I am not too sure on how this works but I am pretty sure that you can make a really powerful bomb by taking a can of draino and mixing it with Chlorox. I think that these two compuonds will spontaniously explode so don't just pour them together. I think what you do is get the draino in a cardboard can and then put it in a bucket of chlorox and what will happen is either the draino or chlorox will eat through the cardboard and they will meet and explode. You might want to experiment with this by rigging it up so you can cause the two to combine while you stand a distance a way. I reccomend extreme caution with this and wear goggles definately.... Just like pour some chlorox into a pan and then have a can of draino with a string tied to it so you can make it spill into the chlorox... Be Care full. I don't need a law suit... ************************************ If you find anything out call The Morgue and leave me feedback and/or get me in chat and I will update this file with credit to you.... ************************************ Call: MORDOR AE...201-528-6467 PW:ZANDAR ************************************ [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:23 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] ** WARNING ** Richie Rich and the staff of Pearl City Networks is not responisible for any damage done while doing the following experiments...do it at your own risk!!!! winston smith and mr.mojo risin present: an anarchist's beginning guide to explosives! (or how to get back at those neighbors who told you to turn your stereo down by blowing em up!) 1.quickie... take organic pool chlorine and mix it with vegtable shortening and put it someplace you don't like. it reacts by itself to produce a very noxious white smoke and heat. 2.a pipe bomb (dangerous) take a pipe crimp (closed at one end) and pack it 3/4 full of parafin. (or any other semi-solid with about the samebasic chemical structure) poke a number of holes through the length of the parafin. on top of this put a very thin steel (or other metal of that sort) wafer, make double damn sure** that it fits tightly all the way around. on top of this put some high concentration hcl (or similar acid). close the top now, stand it on end (parafin end down), and get the f*ck away. you should have about 2-5 minutes depending on the thickness of the wafer. watch out for shrappnel. 3. snowball... take ammonium iodide, flour, & water and form this into a snowball. leave this 'snowball' somewhere where it will do neat stuff when it dries out. (substituting some magnesium flash powder for some (not all) of that flour helps things a bit.) 4.fire bomb.. take carbon disulfide and dissolve white phosphorous in it. put it in a stoppered bottle and throw it at something you would like to see on fire. when the cs2 evaporates, it leaves a film of p on what ever it hits, and it starts a fire with the solvent vapors. 5. light bulb bomb (click...booom!) take a light bulb (brass based preferably so you can solder the wires back when you are done) unsolder the two wires that are soldered to the brass. (one at the center of the bass and one on the side) remove the base taking care not to damage the bulb or filiment. take a pair of needle nosed pliers and snap the glass nipple that is now exposed. fill bulb (not completely) via the hole you just made with gasoline. plug hole with silicone or something. put the base back on. resolder the wires screw into light fixture (with power off of course!) turn on light...booom! mr.mojo risin and winston smith assume no responsiblity for personal injury or damage to property cause by these devices of destruction. anarchy rules! +-------------------------------------+ ! H O W T O M A K E D R U G S ! +-------------------------------------+ IN NO WAY AM I RESPONSIBLE FOR FOR ANY INJURIES CAUSED BY THE USE/MISUSE OF THESE DRUGS. YOU SHOULD TREAT THESE DRUGS LIKE ALCOHOL. USE THEM ONLY AS AN ADDED EXPERIENCE IN LIFE, RATHER THAN AN ESCAPE. THESE RECIPES ARE ALL FOUND IN A BOOK WHICH HAS RELIABLE SOURCES. ALL SHOULD WORK IF MADE PROPERLY. +-------------------------------------+ ! MAKING L.S.D. IN YOUR OWN KITCHEN ! +-------------------------------------+ 1] GRIND UP 150 GRAMS OF MORNING GLORY SEEDS OR BABY HAWAIIAN WOOD ROSE SEEDS. 2] IN 130 C.C. OF PETROLEUM ETHER SOAK THE SEEDS FOR 2 DAYS. 3] FILTER THE SOLUTION THROUGH A TIGHT SCREEN. 4] THROW AWAY LIQUID, AND ALLOW SEEDS MUSH TO DRY. 5] FOR 2 DAYS ALLOW THE MUSH TO SOAK IN 110 C.C. OF WOOD ALCOHOL. 6] FILTER THE SOLUTION AGAIN, SAVING THE LIQUID AND LABELING IT '1' 7] RESOAK THE MUCH IN 110 C.C. OF WOOK ALCOHOL FOR 2 DAYS. 8] FILTER AND THROW AWAY MUSH. 9] ADD LIQUID FROM THE SECOND SOAK TO THE LIQUID LABELED '1'. 10] POUR THE LIQUID INTO A COOKIE TRAY AND ALLOW IT TO EVAPORATE. 11] WHEN ALL LIQUID HAS EVAPORATED, A YELLOW GUM REMAINS. THIS SHOULD BE SCRAPED AND PUT IN CAPSULES. 30 GRAMS OF MORNING GLORY SEEDS - OR - 15 HAWAIIAN WOOD ROSE SEEDS - EQUALS - ONE TRIP ** NOTE ** MANY COMPANIES HAVE BEEN KNOWN TO COAT THIER SEEDS WITH TOXIN. ORDER SEEDS FROM A WHOLESALER. +-------------------------------------+ ! OTHER VARIOUS LEGAL & ILLEGAL DRUGS ! +-------------------------------------+ --> BANANDINE (MADE FROM BANANA!) BANANAS DO CONTAIN A SMALL QUANTITY OF A MILD SHORT LASTING PSYCHODELIC DRUG. THERE ARE BETTER WAYS OF GETTING HIGH BUT THE GREAT ADVANTAGE OF THIS IS THAT BANANAS AE LEGAL (OF COURSE!) 1] OBTAIN 15 LBS OF RIPE YELLOW BANANAS 2] PEEL THEM ALL, EAT THE CHOW, KEEP THE PEELS. 3] WITH A SHARP KNIFE, SCRAPE OFF THE INSIDES OF THE PEELINGS, AND SAVE THE SCRAPED MATERIAL. 4] PUT ALL SCRAPED MATERIAL IN A LARGE POT AND ADD WATER. BOIL FOR THREE TO FOUR HOURS UNTIL IT HAS ATTAINED A SOLID PASTE. 5] SPREAD THIS PASTE ON COOKIE SHEETS AND DRY IN OVEN FOR ABOUT 20 MIN. TO A HALF AN HOUR. THIS WILL RESULT IN A FINE BLACK POWDER ROLL IT UP AND SMOKE ABOUT 3-4 OF THOSE DUDES --> COUGH SYRUP? (SURE, WHY NOT?) MIX ROBOTUSSION A-C WITH AN EQUAL AMOUNT OF GINGER ALE AND DRINK. NOTE THAT YOU CAN OVERDOSE ON THIS ONE! --> GLUE...YUCK! PUT HALF A TUBE OF AIRPLANE GLUE ON ANY (I MEAN, IN ANY) PLASTIC BAG AND SNIFF IT. IT'S REALLY GROSS BUT SOME PEOPLE REALLY GET INTO IT.. --> HEROINE DON'T WASTE YOUR LIFE ON IT... --> PEANUTS! 1] OBTAIN A POUND OF PEANUTS. 2] SHELL THEM, SAVING THE SKINS AND DISCARDING THE SHELLS. 3] PORK OUT ON THE NUTS WHILE WATCHING DR. WHO ONE NIGHT. 4] GRIND UP THE SKINS, ROLL THEM, SMOKE THEM. --> TOAD SKINS? YOU'RE CRAZY!! 1] COLLECT 5-10 TOADS 2] KILL THEM AS PAINLESSLY AS POSSIBLE AND SKIN THEM AS SOON AS POSSIBLE! 3] ALLOW SKINS TO DRY ON THE FRIDGE FOR 4 TO 5 DAYS, OR UNTI THEY ARE BRITTLE. 4] CRUSH INTO A POWDER AND SMOKE. DUE TO THE BAD TASTE, MIX IT WITH MINT OR SOMETHING ELSE. +-------------------------------------+ PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THESE THESE DRUGS SHOULD ONLY BE USED FOR AN ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCE IN LIFE. DO NOT USE THEM AS AN ESCAPE, OR JUST FOR THE HELL OF IT! SEE YA, AND HAVE FUN??!!..??!!.. [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:26 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] ********************************** * T R I P W I R E S * * By * * The Mortician * ********************************** Well first of all I reccommend that you read the file on my board about landmines... If you can't then here is the conecpt. You can use an m-80,h-100, blockbuster or any other type of elxplose that will light with a fuse. Now the way this works is if you have a 9volt batery, from a radio ctlred car or what ever and get either a solor igniter (preferably) or some steel wool you can create a remote ignition system. What you do it set up a schematic like this. ------------------>+ batery steel || ->- batery wool || / :==:--- <--fuse \ || / ---- spst switch--\ So when the switch is on the currnet will flow through the steel wool or igniter and heat up causing the fuse to light. Note: For use with steel wool try it first and get a really thin peice of wire and pump the current through it to make sure it will heat up to light the explosive. ********************************** Now the thing to do is plant your explosive whereever you want it to be but bury it and cover the wires obviously... Now take a this wire fishing line is good about 20 lb. test and tie one end of the wire to a secure object. Have your switch secured to seomthing to and make a loop on the other end on the line. Put the loop around the switch such that when pulled it will pull the switch and set off the explosive. to ignite the explosive... The thing to do is to experiment with this and find your best method... Let me know on any good kills, or new techniques... On my board... (201)376-4462 ********************************** CALL MORDOR AE..201-528-6467 PW:ZANDAR [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:28 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] U/L TO RIPCO 6/3/85 BY STEE ONE +------------------------------------+ ! KING ARTHUR'S DEMOLITION ARTICLE #1! +------------------------------------+ LIKE ALL CHEMISTS I MUST ADVISE YOU ALL TO TAKE THE GREATEST CARE AND CAUTION WHEN YOU ARE DOING THIS. EVEN IF YOU HAVE MADE THIS STUFF BEFORE. THIS FIRST ARTICLE WILL GIVE YOU INFORMATION ON MAKING NITROGLYERIN, THE BASIC INGREDIENT IN A LOT OF EXPLOSIVES SUCH AS STRAIGHT DYNAMITES, AND GELETIN DYNAMITES. -------------------------------------- MAKING NITROGLYCERIN -------------------------------------- 1. FILL A 75-MILLILITER BEAKER TO THE 13 ML. LEVEL WITH FUMING RED NITRIC ACID, OF 98% PURE CONCENTRATION. 2. PLACE THE BEAKER IN AN ICE BATH AND ALLOW TO COOL BELOW ROOM TEMP. 3. AFTER IT HAS COOLED, ADD TO IT THREE TIMES THE AMOUNT OF FUMING SULFERIC ACID (99% H2SO4). IN OTHER WORDS, ADD TO THE NOW-COOL FUMING NITRIC ACID 39 ML. OF FUMING SULFERIC ACID. WHEN MIXING ANY ACIDS, ALWAYS DO IT SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY TO AVOID SPLATTERING. 4. WHEN THE TWO ARE MIXED, LOWER THIER TEMP. BY ADDING MORE ICE TO THE BATH, ABOUT 10-15 DEGREES CENTIGRADE. (USE A MERCURY-OPERATED THERMOMETER) 5. WHEN THE ACID SOLUTION HAS COOLED TO THE DESIRED TEMPERATURE, IT IS READY FOR THE GLYCERIN. THE GLYCERIN MUST BE ADDED IN SMALL AMOUNTS USING A MEDICINE DROPPER. (READ THIS STEP ABOUT 10 TIMES!) GLYCERIN IS ADDED SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY (I MEAN CAREFUL!) UNTIL THE ENTIRE SURFACE OF THE ACID IT COVERED WITH IT. 6. THIS IS A DANGEROUS POINT SINCE THE NITRATION WILL TAKE PLACE AS SOON AS THE GLYCERIN IS ADDED. THE NITRATION WILL PRODUCE HEAT, SO THE SOLUTION MUST BE KEPT BELOW 30 DEGREES CENTIGRADE! IF THE SOLUTION SHOULD GO ABOVE 30 DEGREES, IMMEDIATELY DUMP THE SOLUTION INTO THE ICE BATH! THIS WILL INSURE THAT IT DOES NOT GO OFF IN YOUR FACE! 7. FOR HTE FIRST TEN MINUTES OF NITRATION, THE MIXTURE SHOULD BE GENTLY STIRRED. IN A NORMAL REACTION THE NITROGLYCERIN WILL FORMAS A LAYER ON TOP OF THE ACID SOLUTION, WHILE THE SULFERIC ACID WILL ABSORB THE EXCESS WATER. 8. AFTER THE NITRATION HAS TAKEN PLACE, AND THE NITROGLYCERIN HAS FORMED ON THE TOP OF THE SOLUTION, THE ENTIRE BEAKER SHOULD BE TRANSFERRED SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY TO ANOTHER BEAKER OF WATER. WHEN THIS IS DONE THE NITROGLYCERIN WILL SETTLE AT THE BOTTEM SO THE OTHER ACIDS CAN BE DRAINED AWAY. 9. AFTER REMOVING AS MUCH ACID AS POSIBLE WITHOUT DISTURBING THE NITROGLYCERIN, REMOVE THE NITROGLYCERIN WITH AN EYEDROPPER AND PLACE IT IN A BICARBONATE OF SODA (SODIUM BICARBONATE IN CASE YOU DIDN'T KNOW) SOLUTION. THE SODIUM IS AN ALKALAI AND WILL NUETRALIZE MUCH OF THE ACID REMAINING. THIS PROCESS SHOULD BE REPEATED AS MUCH AS NECESARRY USING BLUE LITMUS PAPER TO CHECK FOR THE PRESENCE OF ACID. THE REMAINING ACID ONLY MAKES THE NITROGLY- CERIN MORE UNSTABLE THAN IT ALREADY IS. 10. FINALLY! THE FINAL STEP IS TO REMOVE THE NITROGLYCERIN FROM THE BI- CARBONATE. HIS IS DONE WITH AND EYE- DROPPER, SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY. THE USUAL TEST TO SEE IF NITRATION HAS BEEN SUCCESSFUL IS TO PLACE ONE DROP OF THE NITROGLYCERIN ON METAL AND IGNITE IT. IF IT IS TRUE NITROGLYCERIN IT WILL BURN WITH A CLEAR BLUE FLAME. ** CAUTION ** NITRO IS VERY SENSATIVE TO DECOMPOSI- TION, HEATING DROPPING, OR JARRING, AND MAY EXPLODE IF LEFT UNDISTURBED AND COOL. -------------------------------------- NEXT ARTICLES: #2 MERCURY FULMINATE #3 DYNAMITES #4 CHLORIDE OF AZODE -------------------------------------- SPECIAL THANKS TO THE ICEBERG <=-:+**# [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:32 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] *************************************** RECIPE FOR A STANDARD PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE *************************************** INGREDIENTS: -GASOLINE - 1 PART -OIL - 1 HALF PART -STYROFOAM - 1 1) MELT STYROFOAM. -REMEMBER NEVER AT ANY TIME LET THE MIXTURE GET TOO HOT. 2) LET COOL TO A THICK VISCOSITY. 3) MIX 3 INGREDIENTS TOGETHER IN FOLLOWING ORDER: FIRST ADD STYROFOAM, THEN OIL, THEN GAS. 4) MIX IN A DEEP POT - KEEP MIXTURE AWAY FROM ANY TYPE OF FIRE! DO THIS STEP WITH EXTREME CAUTION. 5) LET THE MIXTURE COOL TO A LITTLE BIT WARMER THAN ROOM TEMPERATURE - AROUND 88 DEGREES FARENHEIT. 6) MOLD THE MIXTURE HOW YOU WANT. (DIFFERENT SHAPES WILL MAKE IT MORE OR LESS LETHAL). OPTIONAL: YOU CAN ADD NUTS, BOLTS, AND SCREWS WHILE MIXING, ALONG WITH GUNPOWDER, 2 M-80'S, OR ANY OTHER TYPE OF EXPLOSIVE TO MAKE IT THE EQUIVILANT OF A MOLOTOV COCKTAIL. NOTE: THE FRAGMENTS (NUTS, BOLT, ETC.) ARE DEADLY. THEY WILL PENETRATE A BRICK WALL WHEN THE MIXTURE IS DETONATED. ============ :DETONATION: ============ 1) THE MIXTURE CAN BE THROWN, BUT SOMETIMES DETONATION DOES NOT OCCUR. 2) THE MIXTURE CAN BE WIRED FOR AN ELECTRIC CHARGE TO BE SENT THROUGH IT, IT WILL DETONATE WITHOUT DOUBT. A REGULAR FUSE CAN BE SENT THROUGH IT ALSO. IF THIS METHOD IS USED, SOME SORT OF TIMER IS RECOMMENDED. [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:33 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: How to Make and Use Nitroglycerin. Brought to you by:Heracles (B.O.U.) :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: CH2ONO2 ! 3/2 N2 + 3 CO2 CHONO2 ----------> + ! Ignition 5/2 H2O + 1/4 O2 CH2ONO2 (How Nitro explodes--note that the byproducts are nothing but nitrogen, carbon dioxide, water and oxygen) :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: Nitroglycerin [heretofore Nitro] is a very powerful high- explosive. I am not sure who invented it but he probably didn't-- the first person to make it probably blew himself up and his freind got the info off his notes. Well anyway, the next best thing to Nitro is TNT which is ten times harder to make but also ten times safer to make. If you can't use common sense then dont even TRY to make this stuff--a few drops can blow off your hand in the right circumstances. :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: To make Nitro: == ==== ====== Mix 100 parts fuming nitric acid (for best results it should have a specific gravity of 50 degrees Baume') with 200 parts sulphuric acid. This is going to be HOT at first--it won't splatter if you pour the nitric INTO the sulphuric but don't try it the other way around. The acid solutions together can disolve flesh in a matter of seconds so take the proper measures for God's sake!!! When cool, add 38 parts glycerine as slowly as possible. Let it trickle down the sides of the container into the acids or it won't mix thourily and the reaction could go to fast--which causes enough heat to ignite the stuff. Stir with a **GLASS** rod for 15 seconds or so then CARFULLY pour it into 20 times it's *VOLUME* of water. It will visibly precipitate immediatly. there will be twice as much Nitro as you used glycerin and it is easy to separate. Mix it with baking soda as soon as you have separated it-- this helps it not to go off spontainously. :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: NOTES: Parts are by weight nd he Baume' scale of spicific gravity can be found in most chem. books. You can get fuming nitric and sulfuric acids wherever good chemicals or fertilizers are sold. It is positivly *STUPID* to make more than 200 grams of Nitro at a time. When mixing the stuff wear goggles, gloves, etc. When I first made the stuff I had the honor of having it go off by itself (I added too much glycerine at a time.) I was across the room at the time, but I felt the impact--so did the table it was on as well as the window it was next to--they were both smashed by only 25 grams in an open bowl. Oh, yes, glycerine you can get at any pharmacy and you need an adult signature for the acids. Any bump can make Nitro go off if you don't add the bicarbonate of (baking) soda--but even with that, if it gets old I wouldn't play catch with it. :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: Once you have made the Nitro and saturated it with Bicarb. you can make a really powerful explosive that won't go off by itself by simply mixing it with as much cotton as you can and then saturating that with molten (but as cool as possible, of course) parifine--just enough to make it sealed and hard. Typically, use the same amounts (by weight) of each Nitro, cotton and parifine. This, when wrapped in newspaper, was once known as "Norbin & Ohlsson's Patent Dynamite," but that was back in 1896. [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:34 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] -<\>--<\>--<\>--<\>--<\> Improvised Explosives Gelatine Explosive from Anti-Freeze -<\>--<\>--<\>--<\>--<\> Written by: The Lich This explosive is almost the same as the nitro-gelatin plastique explosive exept that it is supple and pliable to -10 to -20 deg. C.. Antifreeze is easier to obtain than glycerine and is usually cheaper. It needs to be freed of water before the manufacture and this can be done by treating it with calcium chlor- ide until a specific gravity of 1.12 @ o deg. C. or 1.11 @ 20 deg. C. is obtained. This can be done by adding calcium chloride to the antifreeze and checking with a hydrometer and continue to add calcium chloride until the proper reading is obtained. The antifreeze is then filtered to remove the calcium chloride from the liquid. This explosive is superior to nitro-gelatin in that it is easier to collidon the IMR smokeless powder into the explosive and that the 50/50 ether ethyl alcohol can be done away with. It is superior in that the formation of the collidon is done very rapidly by the nitroethelene glycol. It's detonation properties are practically the same as the nitro- gelatine. Like the nitro-gelatine it is highly flammable and if caught on fire the chances are good that the flame will progress to detonation. In this explosive as in nitro-gelatine the addition of 1% sodium carbonate is a good idea to reduce the chance of recidual acid being present in the final explos- ive. The following is a slightly different formula than nitro-gelatine: Nitro-glycol 75% Guncotton (IMR) 6% Potassium Nitrate 14% Flour (baking) 5% In this process the 50/50 step is omitted. Mix the potassium nitrate with the nitro-glycol. Remember that this nitro-glycol is just as sensitive to shock as is nitroglycerin. The next step is to mix in the flour and sodium carbonate. Mix these by kneading with gloved hands until the mixture is uniform. This kneading should be done gently and slowly. The mixture should be uniform when the IMR smokeless powder is added. Again this is kneaded to uniformity. Use this explosive as soon as possible. If it must be stored, store in a cool, dry place (0-10 deg. C.). This explosive should detonate at 7600-7800 m/sec.. These two explosives are very powerful and should be sensitive to a #6 blasting cap or equivelent. These explosives are dangerous and should not be made unless the manufacturer has had experience with this type compound. The foolish and ignor- ant may as well forget these explosives as they won't live to get to use them. Don't get me wrong, these explosives have been manufactured for years with an amazing record of safety. Millions of tons of nitroglycerine have been made and used to manufacture dynamite and explosives of this nature with very few mis- haps. Nitroglycerin and nitroglycol will kill and their main victims are the stupid and foolhardy. Before manufacturing these explosives take a drop of nitroglycerin and soak into a small piece of filter paper and place it on an anvil. Hit this drop with a hammer and don't put any more on the anvil. See what I mean! This explosive compound is not to be taken lightly. If there are any doubts DON'T. -<\>--<\>--<\>--<\>--<\> Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from Aspirin -<\>--<\>--<\>--<\>--<\> Written by: The Lich This explosive is a phenol dirivative. It is toxic and explosive compounds made from picric acid are poisonous if inhaled, ingested, or handled and absor- bed through the skin. The toxicity of this explosive restrict's its use due to the fact that over exposure in most cases causes liver and kidney failure and sometimes death if immediate treatment is not obtained. This explosive is a cousin to T.N.T. but is more powerful than it's cousin. It is the first explosive used militarily and was adopted in 1888 as an artillery shell filler. Originally this explosive was derived from coal tar but thanx to modern chemistry you can make this explosive easily in approximately three hours from acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin purified). This procedure involves dissolving the acetylsalicylic acid in warm sulfuric acid and adding sodium or potassium nitrate which nitrates the purified aspirin and the whole mixture drowned in water and filtered to obtain the final pro- duct. This explosive is called trinitrophenol. Care should be taken to ensure that this explosive is stored in glass containers. Picric acid will form dang- erous salts when allowed to contact all metals exept tin and aluminum. These salts are primary explosive and are super sensitive. They also will cause the detonation of the picric acid. To make picric acid obtain some aspirin. The cheaper brands work best but buffered brands should be avoided. Powder these tablets to a fine consistancy. To extract the acetylsalicylic acid from this powder place this powder in methyl alcohol and stir vigorously. Not all of the powder will dissolve. Filter this powder out of the alcohol. Again wash this powder that was filtered out of the alcohol with more alcohol but with a lesser amount than the first extrac- tion. Again filter the remaining powder out of the alcohol. Combine the now clear alcohol and allow it to evaporate in a pyrex dish. When the alcohol has evaporated there will be a surprising amount of crystals in the bottom of the pyrex dish. Take fourty grams of these purified acetylsalicylic acid crystals and dissolve them in 150 ml. of sulfuric acid (98%, specify gravity 1.8) and heat to diss- olve all the crystals. This heating can be done in a common electric frying pan with the thermostat set on 150 deg. F. and filled with a good cooking oil. When all the crystals have dissolved in the sulfuric acid take the beaker, that you've done all this dissolving in (600 ml.), out of the oil bath. This next step will need to be done with a very good ventilation system (it is a good idea to do any chemistry work such as the whole procedure and any procedure on this disk with good ventilation or outside). Slowly start adding 58 g. of sodium nitrate or 77 g. of potassium nitrate to te acid mixture in the beaker very slowly in small portions with vigorous stirring. A red gas (nitrogen tri- oxide) will be formed and this should be avoided. The mixture is likely to foam up and the addition should be stopped until the foaming goes down to prevent the overflow of the acid mixture in the beaker. When the sodium or potassium nitrate has been added the mixture is allowed to cool somewhat (30- 40 deg. C.). The solution should then be dumped slowly into twice it's volume of crushed ice and water. The brilliant yellow crystals will form in the water. These should be filtered out and placed in 200 ml. of boiling distilled water. This water is allowed to cool and then the crystals are then filtered out of the water. These crystals are a very, very pure trinitrophenol. These crystals are then placed in a pyrex dish and places in an oil bath and heated to 80 deg. C. and held there for 2 hours. This temperature is best maintained and checked with a thermometer. The crystals are then powdered in small quantities to a face powder consistency. These powdered crystals are then mixed with 10% by weight wax and 5% vaseline which are heated to melting temperature and poured into the crystals. The mixing is best done by kneading together with gloved hands. This explosive should have a useful plsticity range of 0-40 deg. C.. The detonation velocity should be around 7000 m/sec.. It is toxic to handle but simply made from common ingredients and is suitable for most demolition work requiring a moderately high detonation velocity. It is very suitable for shaped charges and some steel cutting charges. It is not as good an explosive as C-4 or other R.D.X. based explosives but it is much easier to make. Again this explosive is very toxic and should be treated with great care. AVOID HANDLING BARE-HANDED, BREATHING DUST AND FUMES, AVOID ANY CHANCE OF INGESTION. AFTER UTENSILS ARE USED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF THIS EXPLOSIVE RETIRE THEM FROM THE KITCHEN AS THE CHANCE OF POISONING IS NOT WORTH THE RISK. THIS EXPLOSIVE, IF MANUFACTURED AS ABOVE, AHOULD BE SAFE IN STORAGE BUT WITH ANY HOMEMADE EXPLOSIVE STORAGE OS NOT RECOMENDED AND EXPLOSIVES SHOULD BE MADE UP AS NEEDED. A V O I D C O N T A C T W I T H A L L M E T A L S E X E P T T I N [ Selection ] : 27 -<\>--<\>--<\>--<\>--<\> Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from Bleach -<\>--<\>--<\>--<\>--<\> Written by: The Lich This explosive is a potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive and explo- sives of similar composition were used in World War II as the main explosive filler in gernades, land mines, and mortar used by French, German, and other forces involoved in that conflict. These explosives are relatively safe to manufacture. One should strive to make sure these explosives are free of sulfur, sulfides, and picric acid. The presence of these compounds result in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly decompose ex- plosively while in storage. The manufacture of this explosive from bleach is given as just an expediant method. This method of manufacturing potassium chlorate is not economical due to the amount of energy used to boil the sol- ution and cause the 'dissociation' reaction to take place. This procedure does work and yields a relatively pure and a sulfur/sulfide free product. These explosives are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for instigating detonation. To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach (5.25% sodium hypochlorite solution) obtain a heat source (hot plate stove etc.) a battery hydrometer, a large pyrex or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals), and some potassium chloride (sold as salt substitute). Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 g. potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Bring this solution to a boil and boiled until when checked by a hydrometer the reading is 1.3 (if a battery hydrometer is used it should read full charge). When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in the refrigerator until it's between room temperature and 0 deg. C.. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil the solution again until it reads 1.3 on the hydrometer and again cool the solution. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals. Take these crystals that have been saved and mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 g. per 100 ml. distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow it to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. The process if purifi- cation is called fractional crystalization. These crystals should be relatively pure potassium chlorate. Powder these to the consistency of face powder (400 mesh) and heat gently to drive off all moisture. Melt five parts vasoline and five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline) and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate (the crystals from the above operation) in a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until immediately mixed. Allow all the gasoline to evaporate. Place this explosive in a cool, dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfide, and phosphorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density (1.3g./cc.) and dipped in wax to water proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. This explosive is really not suited to use in shaped charge applications due to its relatively low detonation velocity. It is comparable to 40% ammonia dynamite and can be considered the same for the sake of charge computation. If the potassium chlorate is bought and not made it is put into the manufacture pro- cess in the powdering stages preceding the addition of the wax/vaseline mix- ture. This explosive is bristant and powerful. The addition of 2-3% aluminum powder increases its blast effect. Detonation velocity is 3300 m/sec.. [ Selection ] : 28 -<\>--<\>--<\>--<\>--<\> Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosives From Swimming Pool Clorinating Compound -<\>--<\>--<\>--<\>--<\> Written by: The Lich This explosive is a chlorate explosive from bleach. This method of production of potassium or sodium chlorate is easier and yields a more pure product than does the plastique explosive from bleach process. In this reaction the H.T.H. (calcium hypochlorite CaC10) is mixed with water and heated with either sodium chloride (table salt, rock salt) or potassium chloride (salt substitute). The latter of these salts is the salt of choice due to the easy crystalization of the potassium chlorate. This mixture will need to be boiled to ensure complete reaction of the ingredients. Obtain some H.T.H. swimming pool chlorination compound or equivilant (usually 65% calcium hypochlorite). As with the bleach process mentioned earlier the reaction described below is also a dissociation reaction. In a large pyrex glass or enamled steel container place 1200g. H.T.H. and 220g. potassium chloride or 159g. sodium chloride. Add enough boiling water to dissolve the powder and boil this solution. A chalky substance (calcium chloride) will be formed. When the formation of this chalky substance is no longer formed the solution is filtered while boiling hot. If potassium chloride was used potassium chlorate will be formed. This potassium chlorate will drop out or crystalize as the clear liquid left after filtering cools. These crystals are filtered out when the solution reaches room temperature. If the sodium chloride salt was used this clear filtrate (clear liquid after filter- ation) will need to have all water evaporated. This will leave crystals which should be saved. These crystals should be heated in a slightly warm oven in a pyrex dish to drive off all traces of water (40-75 deg. C.). These crystals are ground to a very fine powder (400 mesh). If the sodium chloride salt is used in the initial step the crystalization is much more time consuming. The potassium chloride is the salt to use as the resulting product will crystalize out of the solution as it cools. The powdered and completely dry chlorate crystals are kneaded together with vaseline in a plastic bowl. ALL CHLORATE BASED EXPLOSIVES ARE SENSITIVE TO FRICTION AND SHOCK AND THESE SHOULD BE AVOIDED. If sodium chloride is used in this explosive it will have a tendancy to cake and has a slightly lower detonation velocity. This explosive is composed of the following: potassium/sodium chlorate 90% vaseline 10% The detonation velocity can be raised to a slight extent by the addition of 2-3% aluminum sunstituted for 2-3% of the vaseline. This addition of this aluminum will give the explosive a bright flash if set off at night which will ruin night vision for a short while. The detonation velocity of this explosive is approximately 3200 m/sec. for the potassium salt and 2900 m/sec. for the sodium salt based explosive. [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:38 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] 5 [SPACE ABORTS / <^S> FREEZES] *************************************** * * * Revenge: Don't get mad - Get even * * * * By George Hayduke * * * * subtitled: Fun Things To Do * * * * * * Written by The Ghost * * * *****************02/21/85************** SPEED DEMON 415/522-3074 24 HOURS *************************************** This isn't a death and Destruction file. I'm not telling losers how to cause thermite reactions in chemistry class or make neeto pipe bombs to blow up that guy who keeps bugging you. This is from a book by George Hayduke. It describes a variety of ways to get back at people who cause you distress. The book has contains a lot of tips on causing expensive damage to "marks". Well, I picked the good ones. Ones that don't cause a lot of expense, in currency that is. Well, I hope you enjoy. Get back at the losers using the system. Sort of like piracy and phreaking. *************************************** In a car with automatic transmission, switch the #1 and #8 wires on the distributer cap. This will allegedly allow the car to operate in Neutral and Park, but the engine mysteriously dies in Drive. Castor Oil squirted into the tailpipe of a car, will cause a large amount of smoke. Just the thing to help nervous drivers. If you can get a bank account number for a person, truly wonderful things can happen. Depositing one penny every day can get the employees very pissed. It happens that given a few hundred wanted posters, one will look like you. OR anybody else you can imagine. Close anyway. Think of all the bounty hunters just waiting to claim their reward. Place an ad in a paper for Male Secretarys only. $11 an hour, must be physically attractive, gentle, and other related social traits. This is for anybody who has an office. Give the time to show up one half hour before the normal opening hour. For example, if the office opens at 9:00, put the time to be 8:30. All these faggots will show up and start bitching at each other and your loser. Run an ad in the local paper with the following message. "I need all used christmas trees. Please leave them on my lawn, and I'll pay $5 for each one." then leave the losers address. The paper will take your $ and print the ad without thinking. If you know the guy is going to throw a party, arrange for him to find out that somebody was going to crash his party, dressed up like cops. Then call the cops telling them of a real rowdy party going on. If your college uses computers to handle admissions, try this. Fill out course withdrawl forms in the losers name. Then enter them, they probably won't check. The guy will go the entire block unknowing, then when grades are posted. "Where are mine?" "Why didn't I get grades?" Call your colleges administration, tell them you are the undertaker of your losers hometown. He just died, please take him off your records, records will follow. Then call the parents. He just died in a fraternity accident. This will work better if the guy decides to skip a week or so of classes. Instead of credit card fraud, just call up the company and tell them that you just lost your cards. You name? Why it's (insert loser) If you want, advertise the losers phone number as a Dial A Joke. For bigots, Dial A Black, etc. If you dislike a fast food place with a drive thru, try this. Order everything you can think of. Then just don't go to the window. Do it during dinner hours. Or, order a normal sized meal, but with extra helpings of mustard. Then the next car will try the food, then freak out at the joint. Garage door openers often have dip switches that can be changed to other combinations. The cheaper the model, the better. Sears sells just the unit. Say you broke yours or something. Then change the settings. Wax crayons tossed into a wash do wonders to whites or anything else. There is a whole section of phun things to do with a phone. Call in a bomb threat to a school or something, then leave the handset offhook. Of course, do this only at the losers house. Someone will visit. Call Ma Bell, and report that your loser is using Blue Boxes. Tell them it is your civic duty... Don't do this to someone who knows what they are though. The phone co doesn't believe in innocence. Ads placed in papers saying that (insert loser) will sell YOU! the plans to a device enabling inexpensive calls. Mention that you keep no records. If you are getting back at somebody with a multi-line system, this is good. Place a large magnet where the line comes in. When one phone rings, they all do If you can get a private minute with your marks phone, and the handset is modular, cover the handset plug with clear nail polish. The phone rings, then its unlimited "Hello?" "Hello?" Remove the pins from all but one of the hinges of a front door of a business. The door will work fine, for a while, then fall off. People start screaming. Add luminescent paint into the cans of someone who is painting their fence. Then, at night, it glows. Get some copper paint and paint a small line across the insulator of a spark plug in a car. They'll never find it. If your loser gets a parking ticket, get it before he sees it. Then get a stamp flicking the cops off. Send it in with no money. If you dislike a pet hater, here's one. Advertise that you(the loser) wuold like to buy all unwanted strays. $10 for each one. Then call the SPCA, telling them that the loser wants the animals to conduct black masses and pagan rites. Laxatives slipped into dogfood does wonders. Or better yet, toss some normal meat into the dog-owners yard. Then call him up(in a disguised voice) and tell him you saw a suspicious person hanging around the yard.... Mail a letter to the Chief Executive detailing the sexual acts you(the loser) would like to commit, the Secret Service investigates this with no humor. PA systems in department stores are great. Just walk up to a deserted unit, look around, then deliver the most disgusting statement you can think of. Call about thirty people, telling them they just won a sweepstakes. Answer the questions, no obligation, it's just to show how generous people are. Then give the losers phone number to call for more info. Remember two things, hot metal and hot glass do not look different from cool. (as long as it's not too hot) Western Telegram has a check on everything going through. Certain key words trip alarms. Guns, Drugs, Sex, Terrorist, etc all ring bells. Have fun *************************************** Ok, I guess that's then end of the good ones. I left all the destructive ones SELECT *> [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:40 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: How to Make and Use Nitroglycerin. :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: CH2ONO2 ! 3/2 N2 + 3 CO2 CHONO2 ----------> + ! Ignition 5/2 H2O + 1/4 O2 CH2ONO2 (How Nitro explodes--note that the byproducts are nothing but nitrogen, carbon dioxide, water and oxygen) :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: Nitroglycerin [heretofore Nitro] is a very powerful high- explosive. I am not sure who invented it but he probably didn't-- the first person to make it probably blew himself up and his freind got the info off his notes. Well anyway, the next best thing to Nitro is TNT which is ten times harder to make but also ten times safer to make. If you can't use nse then dont even TRY to make this stuff--a few drops can bbcircumstances. :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: To make Nitro: == ==== ====== Mix 100 parts fuming nitric acid (for best results it should have a specific gravity of 50 degrees Baume') with 200 parts sulphuric acid. This is going to be HOT at first--it won't splatter if you pour the nitric INTO the sulphuric but don't try it the other way around. The acid solutions together can disolve flesh in a matter of seconds so take the proper measures for God's sake!!! When cool, add 38 parts glycerine as slowly as possible. Let it trickle down the sides of the container into the acids or it won't mix thourily and the reaction could go to fast--which causes enough heat to ignite the stuff. Stir with a **GLASS** rod for 15 seconds or so then CARFULLY pour it into 20 times it's *VOLUME* of water. It will visibly precipitate immediatly. there will be twice as much Nitro as you used glycerin and it is easy to separate. Mix it with baking soda as soon as you have separated it-- this helps it not to go off spontainously. :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: NOTES: Parts are by weight and the Baume' scale of spicific gravity can be found in most chem. books. You can get fuming nitric and sulfuric acids wherever good chemicals or fertilizers are sold. It is positivly *STUPID* to make more than 200 grams of Nitro at a time. When mixing the stuff wear goggles, gloves, etc. When I first made the stuff I had the honor of having it go off by itself (I added too much glycerine at a time.) I was across the room at the time, but I felt the impact--so did the table it was on as well as the window it was next to--they were both smashed by only 25 grams in an open bowl. Oh, yes, glycerine you can get at any pharmacy and you need an adult signature for the acids. Any bump can make Nitro go off if you don't add the bicarbonate of (baking) soda--but even with that, if it gets old I wouldn't play catch with it. :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: Once you have made the Nitro and saturated it with Bicarb. you can make a really powerful explosive that won't go off by itself by simply mixing it with as much cotton as you can and then saturating that with molten ((parifine--just enough to make it sealed and hard. Typically, use the same amounts (by weight) of each Nitro, cotton and parifine. This, when wrapped in newspaper, was once known as "Norbin & Ohlsson's Patent Dynamite," but that was back in 1896. Presented by: -=* M I N E S of M O R I A *=- 318 - 988 - 4038 THE 1200 BAUD CONNECTION [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:61 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] (Formated 80col and Full Keyboard) Mercury Distrubriting Presents... (*-> -------------------------------------------------------------------- <-*) Car Thrashing Written by: ~~~ ~~~~~~~~~ Call: Mr. "Budman" Zeek (503) 253 - 5300 (*-> -------------------------------------------------------------------- <-*) There are many ways to thrash someones car. But they basicly fall under 2 topics. These are, 1 to just fuck it up and 2, to distroy it. As long as your at it don't for get to steal the stero & speakers. The following are type 1 tricks to pull of on someones car. Sweet-Gas: This involves taking the gas cap off of you victums car. If it --------- is a locking cap break it off. Or you might pry it off, resort to "Jocky Boxin" by Mr. Zeek if un fimiler with these tecniqes. Once you have the gas cap off pour 4 or 5 pounds of white sugar in there gas tank. Now when the start there car up and drive away they will go about 2 miles or so then the car will crap out and they will have to pay some $'s to get it fixed. Sweet-Oil: In this one you open there hood and pour some honey in there oil --------- spout. if yu have time you might remover the oil plug first and drain some of the oil out. I have tried this one but wasn't around to see the effects but I am sure that I did some damage. Slow Air: Ok, sneak yp the victums car and poke a small hole some where -------- in 2 of his/her tires. They only have 1 spare. Now if the hole is small but there then there tire will go flat some where on the road. You could slice the tire so this is blows out on the road wih a rasor blade. Cut a long and fairly deep (don't cut a hole) and peel a little bit of the rubber back and cut that off. Now very soon there tires will go flat or a possible blow out at a high speed if your lucky. Vanishing Paint: Spead a little gas or paint thiner on the victums car --------------- and this will make his paint run and fade. Vodca will eat the paint off and so will a little 190. Eggs work great on pain if they sit there long enough. Key Paint: Run you car keys/can opener along there car and scrach a long --------- strip off. It'll really piss 'em off and everyone can see it. All-Lock: You go up to the dudes car, right. And then super glue the -------- the door lock and door handle where the car can't be opened. Loose Wheel: Losen the lugs on you victums tires so that they will soon ----------- fall off. This can really fuck some one up if they are cruzing when the tire falls off. Ok, thats some of the begginer shit...now if your really out to get this dude try some of these.... First, pause and take a bong hit........... No name for this one. but where you pour oil into the engin, pour some sand, this will scar the head and pushrodes and possible scrach the fuck out of the cylinder. Dual Nutral: This name sucks but pull the 10 bolt or what ever they have ----------- there off. (On the real wheels, in the middle of the axle) Now throw some screws, blots, nuts and assorted things in there and replace the cover. At this point you could chip some of the teeth off the gears. Un-Midaser: Crawl under there car with a rachet and losen all the nuts ---------- on there exauset so that it hangs low and will fall off soon. They will be in town and there exaust will fall off. This method also works on tranys but is a little harder to get all bolts off, but the harder you work the more you fuck them over. Draino Bomb: (Idea from Baby Demon) Get a little plasistc orange thingy ----------- that you get from you local drugest. And fill this with liquid draino. Now re-cap and place inside vicuum gas tank. When the gs easts through the plasic...look out. this has not been tried by anyone that I personly know. But what the well, your a terrorists (*-> Another way is to get a ping-pong ball and cut a small hole in it, now fill the ball up with liquid dranio and seal the hold with tape. Now drop the ball in someone gas tank and n about 40secs...BOOM! (*-> Well, for all you hard working terriorsts, this BUD is for you. <-*) (*-> -------------------------------------------------------------------- <-*) Mr. "Budman" Zeek the founder of "Hi-Tec Terriorsts" and a member of "Portland Apple Corps". I can be reached on almost any 503 board.... (*-> -------------------------------------------------------------------- <-*) (503) 253 - 5300 / (503) 684 - 0899 / (503) 638 - 9481 (*-> -------------------------------------------------------------------- <-*) [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:81 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] --------------------------------------- [SAFEHOUSE: 612/724-7066 - SPACE QUITS] HOW TO MAKE A REALLY NICE PIPE BOMB OUT OF EVERYDAY MATERIALS. UPLOADED BY THE GRAY MOUSER..... 1) GO TO YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE STORE AND TELL THE GUY THAT IS HELPING YOU THAT YOU WANT A PIECE OF STEEL PIPE ONE FOOT LONG. AND ALSO THAT YOU WANT THE ENDS THREADED AND YOU ALSO WANT CAPS TO PUT ON THE END. 2) NOW GET AHOLD OF A BABYFOOD JAR. MAKE SURE THAT THE JAR WILL FIT DOWN THE PIPE REAL EASY LIKE. FILL THE BABYJAR WITH EVERYDAY VINEGAR. MAKE SURE THE TOP IS SCREWED ON REAL TIGHT. **IF IT IS LOOSE YOU WILL BLOW YOUR HAND OFF** 3)NOW CAP ONE END OF YOUR PIPE WITH ONE OF THE CAPS THAT YOU SHOULD HAVE PICKED UP WITH THE PIPE. IF YOU KNOW OF SOMEONE WITH A WIELDER, HAVE HIM WIELD A BEAD AROUND THE THREADS AFTER YOU HAVE IT CAPPED. 4)PUT SOME SMALL SHARP ROCKS DOWN THE END OF THE PIPE AND THEN SLIDE THE BABYJAR DOWN INSIDE SO THE GLASS END IS AGAINST THE LITTLE ROCKS. NOW EMPTY A MEDIUM BOX OF ARM AND HAMMER BAKING SODA INTO THE PIPE. CAP THE OTHER END OF THE PIPE AND IF YOU CAN WIELD IT, THEN GO FOR IT. **BE FUCKING CAREFUL** YOU MIGHT BREAK THE JAR INSIDE AND YOU WON'T KNOW THAT YOU BROKE IT UNTIL YOU SEE YOUR HAND FLY OFF!!! 5)NOW, WHEN YOU WANT TO BLOW SOMETHING UP, JUST SMACK THE END OF THE PIPE THAT SENDS THE JAR INSIDE DOWN AGAINST THE SMALL ROCKS. OH YEAH, SMACK IT AGAINST SOME CONCREAT. THIS BREAKS THE JAR AND THE VINEGAR AND BAKING SODA MIX TOGETHER AND BUILDS UP PRESSURE. WHEN IT GETS TO THE CRITICAL POINT....WHAMMY!!!! ******IMPORTANT****** AFTER YOU HIT THE PIPE AGAINST THE GROUND, GET THE HELL RID OF IT!!! TOSS IT INTO SOMEONES CAR OR SOMEWHERE. SOMETIMES. IT TAKES FIVE MINUTS FOR IT TO GO OFF, SOMETIMES TWO. BUT IT WILL GO OFF! TRUST ME! I DID THIS WHEN I WAS LIVING IN ARIZONA. MY FREIND THAT TAUGHT ME THIS WAS A DEMOLITIONS EXPERT FOR THE NAVY. THE FIRST TIME I DID IT. WE TOSSED THE PIPE INTO AN OLD HOUSE AND IT BLEW ALL FOUR WALLS OUT!! THE SECOND TIME WE DID IT, WE TOSSED IT INTO AN OLD CAR. AND IT PHUKING BLEW ALL FOUR DOORS OFF AND THE ROOF THREE FEET INTO THE AIR!!!! WHEN WE BLEW UP THE HOUSE, WE WAITED FIVE MINUTS AND I THOUGHT THAT IT WOULDN'T GO OFF. SO I CRAWLED OUT OF THE DITCH THAT WE WERE IN. WHAMMY!! JUST THEN IT WENT OFF! IT THREW ME BACK FIVE FEET BACK INTO THE DITCH! IF YOU FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS REAL CAREFULLY. THEN YOU WON'T GET HURT. I WILL TALK TO YOU ALL LATER. AND TELL ME WHAT YOU HAVE BLOWN UP!!! THE GRAY MOUSER ^___^ * * ^ --\ /-- " SOON TO COME FROM THE MOUSER, HOW TO MAKE NAPALM!! PLUS A DETONATOR TO SET THE STUFF OFF!! --------------------------------------- [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:85 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] A quickie bomb, stolen from MacGyver ------------------------------------ Typed, Uploaded, and Translated by (_> Shadow Hawk 1 <_) \__________________________________/ Ok. Heres a really simple bomb that you can make from things you've probably go t lying around the house... What you ne eed: A bag of fertilizer Some Cotton Some Starter Fluid (etherous kind) Some Newspaper Ok... You fold the newspaper until its in sort of a pocket shape, then fill it up with fertilizer (not too much).. Nex t, you put cotton on top of the fertili zer. Then, pour some starter fluid on i t (the fertilizer), wrap up the newspap er (you can use tape). Now this isnt th e kind of bomb you leave lying around for a couple days, as it drys out. When you want to use it, just light the edge of the newspaper and throw it. Pretty simple, eh? Have Phun, and don't get caught! -------------------------------- P.s. I never noticed before, but all the formulas, etc. that the dude on macgyver uses are real, (i checked quite a few of em). -------------------------------- (c) 1986 The J-Men ------------------|||||||||||||| 'DONE' [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:88 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] )------------------------------------( ( How To Make Mercury Fulminate ) ) ----------------------------- ( ( Written by The Lockpic & ) ) The Blitz ( (####################################) / H ang Ten 1986 / /------------------------------------/ When employing the use of any high explosive,an individual must also use some kind of detonating device.Blasting caps are probably the most popular today,since they are very functional and relativly stable.The prime ingrediant in most blasting caps and d e tonating devices in general is mercury fulminate.There are several methods for preparing mercury fulminate. Method No.1 for the preparation of Mercury Fulminate: 1. Take 5 grams of pure mercury and mix is with 35 ml. of nitric acid. 2.The mixture is slowly and gentle heated.As soon as the solution bubbles and turns green, one knows that the silver mercury is dissolved. 3. After it is dissolved, the solution should be poured,slowly,into a small flask of ethyl alcohol.This will result in red fumes. 4. After a half hour or so,the red fumes will turn white, indicating that the process is nearing its final stage. 5. after a few minutes, add distilled water to the solution. 6. The entire solution is now filtered, in order to obtain the small white crystals.These crystals are pure mercury fulminate,but should be washed many times, and tested with litmus paper for any remaining undersiable acid. Method No. 2 for the preparation of Mercury Fulminate: 1. Mix one part mercuric oxide with ten parts ammonia solution.When ratios are described,they are always done according to weight rather than volume. 2. After waiting eight to ten days,one will see that the mercuric oxide has reacted with the ammonia solution to produce the white fulminate crystals. 3. These crystals must be handled in the same way as the first method described, in that they must be washed many times and given several litmus paper tests. Many other fulminates can be made in the same manner as above,but i will not go into these,since most are extremely unstable and sensitive to shock.All fulminates including mercury fulminate,are sensitive to shock and friction,and in no circumstances should they be handled in a rough or careless manner.. ---------------------------------------- Call these Commodore X-changes The headquarters (817)430-8239 T.A.R.G.E.T. (817)295-9228 Pirates Exchange (214)446-2219 ========================================Hang Ten 1986 able and sensitive to shock.All fulminates including mercury fulminate,are sensitive to shock and friction,and in no circumstances [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:95 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] ------------------------------- [CTRL-S PAUSES/SPACE=QUIT] ) +$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+ $ $ + SOME INTERESTING WAYS TO + $ KILL A FRIEND (OR ENEMY) $ + + $ BY $ + -=> THE GREMLIN <=- + $ $ +$+$)$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+$+ HI, IT'S ME, THE GREMLIN AGAIN. THIS TIME, I DECIDED TO WRITE ABOUT SOME COOL WAYS TO KILL SOMEBODY YOU DON'T LIKE, AND HAVE A GOOD TIME LAUGHING WHILE YOU DO IT. ..IF HEE RACES BMX, STRING A 60 POUND TEST LINE ACROSS A JUMP OR IN THE MIDDLE OF THE TRACK... ..STAPLE HIS MOUTH TO THE TAIL-PIPE OF YOUR BMW, AND PUT A PIECE OF TAPE ACROSS HIS NOSE, THEN DRIVE ABOUT 20 MILES AT TOP-SPEED, BY THIS TIME, HIS MOUTH SHOULD BE ENMESHED WITH THE TAIL-PIPE, HIS KNUCKLES, KNEES, AND FEET WILL BE PRACTICALLY NON-EXISTENT FROM DRAGGING ON THE GROUND, AND HE'LL BE QUITE DEAD FROM INHALING ALL THAT CARBON MONOXIDE... ..MAKE CONCRETE BLOCKS OUT OF HIS HANDS, THEN HANG HIM FROM A BRIDGE ACROSS A NOT TOO WELL TRAVELLED ROAD, BY HIS FEET. SET HIM SWINGING, AND WAIT FOR THE NEXT TRUCK OR VAN... ..HANG HIM SPREAD-EAGLE OFF A DIVING BOARD, WITH A WEIGHT TIED AROUND HIS STOMACH. IF THE BOARD IS LOW ENOUGH, YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO BOUNCE UP AND DOWN ON THE BOARD, AND WATCH HIM DROWN SLOWLY... ..TIE A ROPE AROUND HIS NECK STRAIGHT UP TO THE TOP OF A SAIL ON A SAIL- BOAT, AND STRAP HIS FEET TO THE FLOOR, STRAIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE BOAT. EVERY TIME THE SAIL COMES AROUND, IT SHOULD HIT HIM QUITE HARD IN THE HEAD. I RECOMMEND THIS ONLY FOR VERY WINDY DAYS... ..USE HIM AS A MARKER IN A GIANT SLALOM SKI RACE... ..SLIDE RAZOR BLADES ACROSS HIS BACK FOR ABOUT 20 MINUTES, THEN GIVE HIM THE CHOICE OF SHOOTING HIMSELF IN THE HEAD, OR BEING THROWN IN A BATH-TUB FULL OF GIN... ..TIE HIM UP SPREAD EAGLE IN FRONT OF A PITCHING MACHINE, IN SUCH A WAY THAT THE TIP OF HIS NOSE IS ABOUT 2 INCHES AWAY FROM THE BARELL... ..TIE HIM UP, AND HANDCUFF HIM. THEN PUT HIS FINGERS IN BETWEEN THE TYPE- HEAD OF AN OLD-FASHIONED TYPEWRITER, AND THE PAPER. YOU MIGHT LIKE TYPING OUT YOUR OPINIONS OF HIM, WHILE HE SUFFERS... ..TAKE A PAIR OF HANDCUFFS AND PUT THEM ON HIS FEET. THEN STRAP A ROPE BETWEEN THEM, SO YOU HOLD ON TO THE ROPE. GO ON SPACE MOUNTAIN IN DISNEY- LAND, AND DRAG HIM OFF THE BACK. IF YOU GET TIRED OR SCARED, JUST LET GO, IT'S ONLY 80 OR 90 FEET DOWN TO THE CONCRETE... ..STEAL ALL THE JACKS AT THE INDY 500, AND USE HIM AS A REPLACEMENT... ..IF HE HAPPENS TO BE A SADIST, PLUCK OFF HIS ARMS AND LEGS, JUST AS HE PROBABLY DID TO FLIES... ..STRING UP HIS LOCKER, SO THAT WHEN HE OPENS IT UP, A MOUSE TRAP SNAPS OUT AND GRABS HIM BY THE YOU-KNOW-WHAT... ..BURY HIM STANDING UP 8 FEET DEEP IN SAND, THEN MAKE A WIDER AREA AROUND HIS HEAD ABOUT 2 FEET DEEP. PRY HIS EYES OPEN WITH SOMETHING (PREFERABLY INFECTIOUS) AND POUR IN SALT. THEN LET IN SIX RATS, AND WATCH THEM GOUGE OUT HIS EYES FOR FOOD... ..TIE RUBBER-BANDS AROUND HIS ANKLES (REALLY STRONG AND LONG ONES MUST BE USED FOR THIS, ABOUT 10 FEET LONG) AND GO UP ON TOP OF A HIGH DIVE, THAT IS SHORTER THAN THE SOMEWHAT EXTENDED LENGTH OF THE RUBBER-BANDS. USE HIM AS A YO-YO... ..STRING HIM OUT ACROSS THE TRACK AT THE NEXT SUMMER OLYMPICS RIGHT BEFORE THE MENS 100 METER DASH, IN PLACE OF THE RIBBON... ..GET ALL DRESSED UP IN A RADIATION SUIT, AND DRIVE OUT TO THREE MILE ISLAND OR SOME OTHER NUCLEAR TEST THAT FAILED ITS' SAFETY TEST. FIND A HUGE VAT OF ANYTHING THAT LOOKS DANGEROUS, IS BOILING, OR IS MADE OF A COLOR NATURE NEVER KNEW EXISTED. THEN GRAB HIM BY THE ANKLES (LIKE ACHILLES' MOTHER DID) AND DUNK HIM IN IT FOR ABOUT 10 MINUTES... I JUST RAN OUT OF IDEAS. IF YOU GOT OFFENDED BY THIS TOUGH SHIT IT'S A JOKE AND IF YOU DON'T THINK IT'S FUNNY THEN SCREW YOU. IF YOU HAVE ANY MORE IDEAS, LEAVE ME MAIL. -=> -=6 -=> -=> THE GREMLIN <=- > > PPPM_PPPPPPdSs MEMBER OF < > > > > >

< UNITED FEDERATION OF PIRATES CRYSTAL CAVERNS 9 1 4 - 5 2 8 - 0 1 0 4 (> NO SUCH FILE (> EE [ / ] [ \ ] VOLUME II [ \ ] [ / ] [ / ] [ \ ] BY THE GREMLIN [ \ ] [ / ]

[ / ] [ \ ] UNITED FEDERATION [ \ ] [ / ] OF PIRATES [ / ] [ \ ] ` [ \ ] [ / ] CRYSTAL CAVERNS................................914/528-0104 [ / ] [ \ ] THE CRYPT OF CHAOS.............................213-394-2781 [ \ ] [ / ] THIEVES WORLD..................................213-470-8152 [ / ] [ \ ] [ \ ] [ / ] [ \ ] [ / ] [ \ ] [ / ] [ \ ] [ / ] [ \ ] [ / ] [ \ ] [ / ] [ \ ] [ / ] OK... YOU GUYS MUST BE PRETTY SICK, CAUSE A LOT OF YOU LIKE THAT FIRST ONE, SO AS I PROMISED, HERE'S ANOTHER... ..GIVE HIM A FRONT ROW VIEW OF THE LAUNCHING OF THE SPACE SHUTTLE, FROM RIGHT UNDER THE LAUNCHING PAD... ..WHEN TOAST GETS STUCK IN THE TOASTER, USE A FEW OF HIS FINGERS TO GET IT OUT( THIS WOULD WORK BETTER IF IT WERE LEFT PLUGGED IN AND ON HI TEMPERATURE) ..FLY OVER THE EMPIRE STATE BUILDING IN A HELICOPTER. TIE A 3/8 INCH ROPE AROUND HIS ANKLE, AND HOLD HIM SO THAT HIS EYE IS STRAIT ABOVE THE RADIO ANTENNA. TELL HIM HE CAN COME BACK IN IF THE ROPE HOLDS FOR AT LEAST 2 HOURS. THEN LIGHT UP A CIGARETTE, AND USE THE ROPE TO GET THE ASHES OFF ( THE RO --------------------------------------- ENTER (1-10, M=MENU, Q=QUIT) : PLEASE WAIT...OK (*> TIME OR T.C. IS PRESENT..CHAT MODE <*) HEY DUDE I NEED THE COMPUTER FOR A REAL IMPORTANT REASON WHERE DO YOU LIVE? @tA@`pB [/] Other Cool BBS/AE/FURS! [\] ---------------------------------------- The Trading Post BBS.....504-291-4970 The Lighthouse PW/OCEAN..504-291-5690 The Dug-Out Cat-Fur......504-348-2386 Milliways BBS............609-921-1994 Glenview House BBS.......312-724-0807 Terrorist Cove CF3.1.....512-448-0632 T.A.R.D.I.S. CF..........612-452-3299 Great White North........612-489-8657 Demon's Dwelling.........916-381-1197 Swamp Castle CF/BBS......612-452-7967 Hobbit Hold AE/CF/BBS....619-262-1207 Pirates Palace......n....504-863-6105 Anarchist AE pw/WARE.....504-891-8674 Triple Jump AE/FUR.......604-936-5966 Unknown..................614-861-3948 Unknown..................504-454-6461 Vulcan Logic Systems..CF.907-561-0656 If you have a board up and would like to be listed here, leave Feedback to Blue Max with Name, Number and Status, and also include whether AE or CF or just BBS and info on it. Later.. ---------------------------------------- List taken from : The Pitstop! [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:98 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] ==Phrack Inc.== Volume One, Issue 7, Phile #6 of 10 XxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxX Xx xX Xx American Dynamite xX Xx xX Xx By The Rocker xX Xx of xX Xx Metallibashers Inc. xX Xx xX Xx for: ==Phrack Inc.== xX Xx xX XxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxX Recipe: Mix 170 parts tolulene with 100 parts acid. The acid made of 2 parts of 70% nitric and 3 parts of 100% sulfuric. Mix below 30 degrees. Set this down for 30 min. and let it separate. Take the mononitrotolulene and mix 100 part of it with 215 parts of acid. This acid is 1 part pure nitric and 2 parts pure sulfuric. Keep the temperature at 60- 70 degrees while they are slowly mixed. Raise temp to 90-100 and stir for 30 min. The dinitrotoluene is separated and mix 100 parts of this stuff with 225 parts of 20% oleum which is 100% sulfuric with 20% extra dissolved sulfur trioxide, and 65 parts nitric acid. Heat at 95 degrees for 60 min. Then at 120 degrees for 90 min. Separate the trinitrotoluene and slosh it around in hot water. Purify the powder by soaking it in benzyne. Presto! American Dynamite! Thanx to S.A. for the idea! Thanx to Phrack Inc. for just being a sponsor! Don't forget to call these systems after you obliterate someone's house with that T.N.T... ======================================= Speed Demon Elite..........415/522-3074 High Times.................307-362-1736 Metalland South............404-576-5166 Brainstorm Elite...........612-345-2815 Atlantis...................215-844-8836 ======================================= Metallizing, The Rocker/MBI (> [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:110 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% %% %% %% ============================ %% %% How to Make Ammonium Nitrate %% %% ============================ %% %% %% %% A file from THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND by: Kurt Saxon %% %% %% %% Plagerized by: %% %% --==**>>THE REFLEX<<**==-- %% %% [Member: Omnipotent, Inc.] %% %% %% %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% Disclaimer: I, THE REFLEX, will accept full responsibility for any damages =-=-=-=-=-= caused by information obtained from this text-file. As a matter of fact, I'll let you sue me and I'll pay. All you have to do is tell your lawyer, "It's all THE REFLEX's fault." I'll see you when you get out of the institution. Some Militants who don't have much dynamite use ammonium nitrate. This can be bought by anyone at $3.75 for and 80 pound bag. It is fertilizer. Ammonium nitrate explodes at rates up to 14,000 feet per second. It is roughly compared to dynamite having 60% nitro. The fertilizer grade Militants use is mixed with motor oil at the ratio of one pint of oil to 8-1/2 pounds of ammonium nitrate. This has to be detonated with a stick of gelatin dynamite [I didn't say all was easy. Try to find another file about that crap.]. Purified ammonium nitrate can be detonated with a number six dynamite cap. The pure stuff can be bought at chemical supply houses or the fertilizer grade can be purified with distilled wood alcohol. Put several pounds of fertilizer grade ammonium nitrate in a pan. Pour in enough wood alcohol (methanol) to cover the fertilizer. Then stir it until a lot of it has dissolved. Next, let it set for a few minutes to allow the impurities to settle to the bottom along with the undissolved ammonium nitrate. Another pan is set on some pieces of dry ice for the next step. Dry ice can be found in the business section of the phone book under "Dry Ice." Locker companies will sell it to anyone, cheaply and in small amounts. The dissolved ammonium nitrate is poured into the cold pan. This is done carefully so as to leave the impurities and undissolved ammonium nitrate behind. The dry ice causes the purified ammonium nitrate to precipitate out of the solution in crystals. When no more crystals are formed they are removed from the alcohol. The alcohol is then poured back into the other pan and stirred to dissolve any ammonium nitrate left undissolved. After setting a few minutes the solution is again poured off the dregs and the dregs are thrown away. When the last batch of crystals is removed, the alcohol can be stored and reused. The dry ice is simply frozen carbon dioxide and its fumes are harmless unless they are enough to replace the air. Don't handle the dry ice with your bare hands [unless you are into pulling your skin off to the bone] as its cold will cause blisters. In order for pure ammonium nitrate to be detonated by a dynamite cap, it must be very dry. Spread it out under a heat lamp ir in thte sun. When completely dry, store it in tightly closed plastic bags. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- You got here on just the right day! For a limited time only, we will be offering this *BONUS* file to you free with the above file. That's right! Two files for the price of one! And only from Omnipotent! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So you don't know what to do with your ammonium nitrate once you've made it. You're saying to yourself, "Great! Now I have a chemical that is supposed to blow things up, but I don't want to destroy anything [ahem?]." Well... LAUGHING GAS =-=-=-=-=-=- [snicker!] As a special treat for the dopers in the audience and since ammonium nitrate has been on your mind for a few minutes, you might as well learn how to make laughing gas from ammonium nitrate. Laughing gas was one of the earliest anaesthetics. After a little while of inhaling the gas the patient became so happy [ain't life great?] he couldn't keep from laughing. Finally he would drift off to a pleasant sleep. Some do-it-yourselfers have died while taking laughing gas. This is because they has generated it through plastic bags while their heads were inside. They were simply suffocating but were too bombed out to realize it. The trick is to have a plastic clothes bag in which you generate a lot of the gas. Then you stop generating the gas and hold a small opening of the bag under your nose, getting plenty of oxygen in the meantime. Then, Whee! To make it you start with ammonium nitrate bought from a chemical supply house or which you have purified with 100% rubbing or wood alcohol. First, dissolve a quantity of ammonium nitrate in some water. Then you evaporate the water over the stove, while stirring, until you have a heavy brine. When nearly all the moisture is out it should solidify instantly when a drop is put on an ice cold metal plate. When ready, dump it all out on a very cold surface. After a while, break it up and store it in a bottle. A spoonful is put into a flask with a one-hole stopper, with a tube leading into a big plastic bag. The flask is heated with an alcohol lamp. When the temperature in the flask reaches 480 F the gas will generate. If white fumes appear the heat should be lowered as the stuff explodes at 600 F. When the bag is filled, stop the action and get ready to turn on. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Well, there you have two files in one. No need to thank us. Just send all "donations" to... [In this business, a since of humor is necessary!] Until the next one...THE REFLEX signing off as I am getting tired. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:121 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] # 2 "AFPO" By RIPPER (UID# 25) On Sun Sep 21, 1986 4:31 PM Lr Sun Jan 11, 1987 9:01 PM -- 8 Responses total -- I changed my mind, I'll post how to make AFPO first. AFPO is the most commonly manufactured blasting agent in the world today, it far surpasses dynamite. HERES HOW TO MAKE IT; NEEDED; Amononium Hydroxide (again) Fuel Oil(s)(white gasoline works) Gelitin(no, NOT FLAVORED!) Mix the AH with the FUEL OIL, until very thoughly mixed in to a thin liquid, then add the GELITIN, yes, this is a gel explosive, until you feel it's the right thickness for your work, you can get it thick enough to be solid, use waterproof fuses, with a little NI3 at the end to make sure the stuff goes off with a good boom, THIS IS A VERY STABLE EXPLOSIVE, IT IS ALSO 3 TIMES MORE POWERFUL THAN DYNAMITE. A thin wire with high voltage running through it in the gel makes a good detonater too. Post any of your "ANARCHISTIC TOOLS" here, also, is there anything that relates to anarchy that anyone would like to see how it's done, or how to make it? Just send mail to 25. HAVE FUN!!!!!! >>>>RIPPER<<<< --------------------------------------- By RIPPER (UID# 25) On Tue Sep 16, 1986 3:18 PM Lr Thu Dec 4, 1986 11:31 PM -- 19 Responses total -- Have you ever heard of the millitary high power explosive, NI3? It's 4 to 6 time MORE POWERFUL than dynamite, and, HERE'S HOW TO MAKE IT! needed: IODINE CRYSTALS AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE Put the AH in a GLASS bowl, and disolve the Iodine in it, in a couple of minutes, new crystals will form, They are highly volitile, and illeagal to have,For what ever it's worth. --PRESS RETURN TO CONTINUE-- Do not DROP, CRUSH, HEAT, or FUCK with them, take very extream percausions with them, pad them in an air tight bottle. ONE TEASPOON HAS THE IMPACT POWER OF ONE M-100 FIRECRACKER. Use them at your own risk! BUT HAVE FUN! MORE SOON! NEXT: LETTER BOMBS! >>>>RIPPER<<<< [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:127 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] BLACK POWDER:GRANDPAS RECIPE TEXT BY, EL PIRATA' IF YA WANT TO MAKE SOME LOW EXPLOSIVE BOMBS THEN YOU PICKED THE RIGHT CHOICE! FIRST OF ALL, THIS RECIPE WILL SHOW HOW TO MAKE BLACK POWDER IN A SIMPLE AND SAFE MANNER YET HAVE THE POWER TO MAKE SOME STRONG LOW EXPLOSIVE BOMBS. NOTE: THE BELOW AMOUNTS WILL YIELD TWO POUNDS (THAT'S 900 GRAMS FOR YOU METRIC USERS) OF BLACK POWDER. HOWEVER, ONLY THE RATIOS OF THE AMOUNTS OF INGREDIENTS ARE IMPORTANT. THUS, FOR TWICE AS MUCH BLACK POWDER, DOUBLE ALL QUANTITIES USED. MATERIAL REQUIRED ----------------- LARGE WOODEN STICK CLOTH, 2 FT. SQ. FLAT WINDOW SCREENING, 1 FT. SQ. HEAT SOURCE WATER, 3 CUPS ALCOHOL, 5 PINTS (ANY KIND) SULFER, POWDERED, 1/2 CUP (FLOWERS OF SULFER, AT A DRUG STORE) WOOD CHARCOAL, POWDERED, 2 CUPS POTASSIUM NITRATE, GRANULATD, 3 CUPS (SALTPETER, AT DRUG STORES) 2 BUCKETS, BOTH 2 GALLON, ONE MUST BE HEAT RESISTANT ..................................... ..................................... PROCEDURE: ---------- 1. PLACE ALCOHOL IN ONE OF THE BUCKETS. 2. PLACE POTASSIUM NITRATE, CHARCOAL, AND SULFUR IN THE HEAT RESISTANT BUCKET. ADD 1 CUP WATER AND MIX THOROUGHLY WITH WOODEN STICK UNTIL ALL INGREDIENTS ARE DISSOLVED. 3. ADD REMAINING WATER (2 CUPS) TO MIXTURE. PLACE BUCKET ON HEAT SOURCE AND STIR UNTIL SMALL BUBBLES BEGIN TO FORM. CAUTION: DO NOT BOIL MIXTURE. BE SURE ALL MIXTURE STAYS WET. IF ANY IS DRY, AS ON SIDES OF PAN, IT MAY IGNITE. 4. REMOVE BUCKET FROM HEAT AND POUR MIXTURE INTO ALCOHOL WHILE STIRRING VIGOROUSLY. 5. LET ALCOHOL MIXTURE STAND ABOUT 5 MINUTES. STRAIN MIXTURE THROUGH CLOTH TO OBTAIN BLACK POWDER. DISCARD LIQUID. WRAP CLOTH AROUND BLACK POWDER AND SQUEEZE TO REMOVE ALL EXCESS LIQUID. 6. PLACE SCREENING OVER DRY BUCKET. PLACE WORKABLE AMOUNT OF DAMP POWDER ON SCREEN AND GRANULATE BY RUBBING SOLID THROUGH SCREEN. NOTE: IF GRANULATED PARTICLES APPEAR TO STICK TOGETHER AND CHANGE SHAPE, RECOMBINE ENTIRE BATCH OF POWDER AND REPEAT STEPS 5 AND 6. 7. SPREAD GRANULATED BLACK POWDER ON FLAT DRY SURFACE SO THAT LAYER ABOUT 1/2 INCH IS FORMED. ALLOW TO DRY. USE RADIATOR, OR DIRECT SUNLIGHT. THIS SHOULD BE DRIED AS SOON AS POSSIBLE, PREFERABLY IN ONE HOUR. THE LONGER THE DRYING PERIOD, THE LESS EFFECTIVE THE BLACK POWDER. CAUTION: REMOVE FROM HEAT AS SOON AS GRANULES ARE DRY. BLACK POWDER IS NOW READY FOR USE! EL PIRATA' (C) 1984 / COMPUTER RAT SOFTWARE [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:133 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] ********************************************************** ***** ***** ***** EXPEDIENT GRENADES ***** ** by ** ***** The Cheshire Cat ***** ***** ***** ********************************************************** There are many possibilities in the field of grenade manufacture, but for the most part, when you're dealing with grenades that must be constructed of easily available materials, the quality and the safety of the grenade is reduced dramatically. Here I will deal with this problem, trying to produce a reasonable type of grenade that is relatively safe, can be stored and transported easily, but produces dramatic effects. I strongly suggest that if you find it possible, you are far better off getting a REAL grenade than trying to produce one yourself, but you can be the judge. As always, I want to note that this is all for educational purposes only, and I do not recommend anyone trying any of the following for real. The first thing you need is explosives. If you can't get black powder, or gun powder, or make your own plastic explosives (we know there sure are enough text files floating around to explain how to make all of the above!) than you're really in a for making a grenade of this type. You'll also need a coffee can, a smaller sized can (probably like an orange juice can, or V8), a coat hanger, and a fuse or fuze. As for explosives, mercury fulminate is extremely good for this sort of thing. Maybe I'll write a text file on its prepar- ation sometime. But for now, you could probably get together a ton of firecrackers and take out the black powder (if you'r desperate) or get a couple quarter sticks from someone (or take a vacation in North Carolina). The explosive goes in the juice can. Don't pack it together too tight. Loose black powder is better than compressed. This is the main explosive. Cut up the coat hanger into little pieces approximately 1/2" long and fill up the coffee can until you can put the juice can in and the top of the juice can is level with the top of the coffee can. If you don't have the time, and need to fill up the space faster, chuck in a couple small rocks or pieces of glass, and stuff like that until you have the bottom of the can filled. Now place the juice can in the coffee can, and center it. Then fill the space around the coffee can with coat hanger stuff until the juice can is relatively stable. Put a model rocket fuse in the explosive in the juice can. Leave (at least) 3 1/2" to light from. If necessary, secure the juice can or the explosive with some masking tape, ect... as long as it doesn't interfere with the action of the grenade. Take the lid of the coffee can and cut a hole so that the fuse is exposed. You now have a fragmentation grenade. It might be a good idea to practice with a football for a while before trying to destroy the neighbor's garage with it. ============================== That's all folks! ============================ ========== Please keep the credits to this the way they are, but feel ======= ========== free to distribute it as you wish. I know you will ============== ========== anyways, so I guess it doesn't matter. If anyone finds =========== ========== it necessary to reach me, try OSB systems (215)-395-1291 ========== ========== which is by the way an awesome AE/BBS. Later, The Cheshire Cat === ============================================================================== [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:137 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: How to Counterfeit :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: Written by --------------------------> The Wave This article deals with how to make counterfeit money. Before reading this article it would be a very good idea to get a book about photo-offset printing, for that's how you'll have to print it. For someone who is familiar with offset printing, printing money is a breeze. Real money is made by a process called gravure. It involves carving out of a metal block (but I don't think anyone can do that by hand-if you can, you should be on That's Incredible!). When you are done (if you did everything correctly) you will have a finished product nearly identical to real money, depending on your printing skills. Well, let's get started! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ First I'd like to tell you briefly how offset printing works. It starts by making negatives (kind of like when you take a picture with your camera). Then you take the negatives and put them on a piece of masking material ( usually orange). Then you expose the STRIPPED negatives or FLATS to a lithographic plate with an arc light plate maker. The BURNED plates are then developed with the proper developer chemical. These plates (one at a time of course) are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press. The press to use should be an 11 by 14 (or so) offset such as the 11 by 17 AB Dick 360. Then the printing begins! To learn in detail how to do each of these steps you should again get a book on the subject. The presswork takes some practice, but you'll get the hang of it. Ok, quit babbling on, Wave, and start the good stuff! By the way you can pick up an 11 by 14 offset for about $500 if you shop around (or you can ** BORROW ** a press from your local Insty Prints at about 3:00 in the morning!). First, like I said before, you need negatives. Make 2 negatives of the portrait side of the bill and 1 of the back side. After developing them and letting them dry, take them to a light table. Get some opaque and, on one of the portrait sides, touch out all the green (the seal and the serial numbers). Line that one up on the FLAT and leave about 1/2 inch from the top of the flat. Then for the other portrait, touch out everything BUT the seal and serial numbers. The back side doesn't require any retouching because it is all one color. Now, make sure all the negatives are lined up right, or REGISTERED, on the flats. By the way, every time you need another serial number, just shoot 1 neg. of the portrait side and cut out the serial number. Cut out the old serial number from the flat and replace it with the new one. Ok, now you have 3 flats, each represents a different color-black and 2 shades of green (which of course are made by mixing inks). Now you are ready to burn the plates. Take a lithographic plate and mark 3 marks on it. These marks must be 2 & 9/16 in. apart, starting on one of the short edges. Do the same thing to 2 more plates. Then take 1 of the flats and place it on the plate, lining the short edge up with the edge of the plate-EXACTLY! Burn it, move it up to the next mark, and cover up the exposed area you already burned. Burn that and do the same thing 2 more times-moving the flat up one mark. Then do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a separate plate). Develope all 3 plates. You should have 4 images on each plate with an equal space between each bill. Roll the Presses! ---- --- ------- The paper you will need won't match exactly, but you can make it pretty damn close (close enough for the cashier at K-Mart!). The paper to use should have a 25% rag content. I have found that Disaperf computer paper works great - that's the kind that you can barely see the perforation. Take this paper (cut the pinfeed holes off first!) and load it into the press. Be sure to set the air, buckle, and paper thickness right. Start with the black plate (the one with out the serial numbers). Wrap it around the cylinder and load black ink in. Make sure you run more than you need because there will be a lot of rejects. Then, while that's printing, mix the inks for the serial #'s and the back side. You'll need to add some white and maybe yellow to the serial # ink. You need to add black to back side. Experiment till you get it right. Clean the press and print the other side. Now you have the bill wioth no green seal or serial numbers. Print a few with one serial number, make another and repeat. Keep doing this until you have as many different numbers as you want. Then cut the bills to the exact size with a paper cutter Now you have a lot of money, except there is still one problemo - the paper is pure white. To dye it, mix the following in a pan: 2 cups hot water, 4 tea bags, and about 16-20 drops of green food coloring (experiment). Dip one of the bills in and compare it to a brand new REAL bill. Make the neces- sary adjustments, and dye all the bills. Then it is a good idea to make them look used. Wrinkle them, rub coffee grinds on them, etc. Congratulations! You're rich! Some of the info was taken from The Poor Man's James Bond, but most from personal knowledge. Also, it would be a good idea to see the movie To Live and Die in L.A. It is about a counterfeiter and they did a good job of show- ing how to do it. Well, that's all folks! Call the Shadowkeep AE------------> (513) 832-1938 AE:TAC [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:138 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] ==Phrack Inc.== Volume One, Issue Two, Phile #3 of 9 ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: @@@@ --] Man-Tooth [-- @@@@ @@@@ presents... @@@@ @@@@:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::@@@@ @@@@ -- HOMEMADE GUNS -- @@@@ @@@@:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::@@@@ @@@@ from @@@@ @@@@ "The Poor Man's James Bond" @@@@ @@@@ by Kurt Saxon @@@@ ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: PIPE OR "ZIP" GUNS ------------------ Commonly known as "zip" guns, guns made from pipe have been used for years by juvenile punks. Today's Militants make them just for the hell of it or to shoot once in an assassination or riot and throw away if there is any danger of apprehension. They can be used many times but with some, a length of dowel is needed to force out the spent shell. There are many variations but the illustration shows the basic design. First, a wooden stock is made and a groove is cut for the barrel to rest in. The barrel is then taped securely to the stock with a good, strong tape. The trigger is made from galvanized tin. A slot is punched in the trigger flap to hold a roofing, which is wired or soldered onto the flap. The trigger is bent and nailed to the stock on both sides. The pipe is a short length of one-quarter inch steel gas or water pipe with a bore that fits in a cartridge, yet keeps the cartridge rim from passing through the pipe. The cartridge is put in the pipe and the cap, with a hole bored through it, is screwed on. Then the trigger is slowly released to let the nail pass through the hole and rest on the primer. To fire, the trigger is pulled back with the left hand and held back with the thumb of the right hand. The gun is then aimed and the thumb releases the trigger and the thing actually fires. Pipes of different lengths and diameters are found in any hardware store. All caliber bullets, from the .22 to the .45 are used in such guns. Some zip guns are made from two or three pipes nested within each other. For instance, a .22 shell will fit snugly into a length of a car's copper gas line. Unfortunatey, the copper is too weak to withstand the pressure of the firing. So the length of gas line is spread with glue and pushed into a wider length of pipe. This is spread with glue and pushed into a length of steel pipe with threads and a cap. Using this method, you can accomodate any cartridge, even a rifle shell. The first size of pipe for a rifle shell accomodates the bullet. The second accomodates its wider powder chamber. A 12-gauge shotgun can be made from a 3/4 inch steel pipe. If you want to comply with the gun laws, the barrel should be at least eighteen inches long. Its firing mechanism is the same as that for the pistol. It naturally has a longer stock and its handle is lengthened into a rifle butt. Also, a small nail is driven half way into each side of the stock about four inches in the front of the trigger. The rubber band is put over one nail and brought around the trigger and snagged over the other nail. In case you actually make a zip gun, you should test it before firing it by hand. This is done by first tying the gun to a tree or post, pointed to where it will do no damage. Then a string is tied to the trigger and you go off several yards. The string is then pulled back and let go. If the barrel does not blow up, the gun is safe to fire by hand. You should not attempt to register such a gun. Pipe Cap / / Bullet Tape Pipe / / / \ / v / / \ / !----! / v v v Nail--\ / /-!---v-----!---!-!---!--------- v --- - - - - - -!- -!-!- -!- - - - ! //----> ![][]\ ! ! ! ! ! ^ ! !--\ ![][]/ ! ! ! ! ! Wire/ ! ! \-!- - - - -!- -!-!- -!- - - - ! Trigger---> ! ! !---! ! ! ! ! :::: /! ! /--------!---!-!---!--::::--! / :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: <-\ ! !-! / \-- Rubber / / band ! ! ! / ! ! ! ! ! ! !------! Z I P G U N / <---Nail !-!/ /------------------\ /-----!o!-----\ ! O O O ! ! ------------- ! \--------! !-------/ !! !! !-! !! !! !! !! !! !! Trigger before bending /--> !! !! <--\ Place !! !! Nail nail hole here Trigger Uploaded by (>The Sultan<) of [:3rd Dimension:] 1/04/86 [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:140 Your 32 file per call limit has been reached, now returning to main level. Uploaded By: Future Spy +=--------------------------------------------------------------------------=+ | Astrolite and Sodium Chlorate Explosives | Call: //\\//\\etalland 1 | | By: Future Spy & The Fighting Falcon | 503/538-0761 | |-------------------------------------------| /\/\etal\/\/orks 313/663-8103 | | /\/\illiways 609/921-1994 The /\/\etal AE (1200 only) 201/879-6668 | |----------------------------------------------------------------------------| | Note: Information on the Astrolite Explosives were taken from the book | | 'Two Component High Explosive Mixtures' By Desert Pub'l | +=----------------------==/===%{ Disclaimer }%===\==------------------------+= Some of the chemicals used are somewhat toxic, but who gives a fuck! Go ahead! I won't even bother mentioning 'This information is for enlightening purposes only'! I would love it if everyone made a gallon of astrolite and blew their fucken school to kingdom scum! Astrolite --------- The astrolite family of liquid explosives were products of rocket propellant research in the '60's. Astrolite A-1-5 is supposed to be the world's most powerful non-nuclear explosive -at about 1.8 to 2 times more powerful than TNT. Being more powerful it is also safer to handle than TNT (not that it isn't safe in the first place) and Nitroglycerin. Astrolite G ----------- "Astrolite G is a clear liquid explosive especially designed to produce very high detonation velocity, 8,600MPS (meters/sec.), compared with 7,700MPS for nitroglycerin and 6,900MPS for TNT...In addition, a very unusual characteristic is that it the liquid explosive has the ability to be absorbed easily into the ground while remaining detonatable...In field tests, Astrolite G has remained detonatable for 4 days in the ground, even when the soil was soaked due to rainy weather" know what that means?....Astrolite Dynamite! To make (mix in fairly large container & outside) ------- Two parts by weight of ammonium nitrate mixed with one part by weight 'anhydrous' hydrazine, produces Astrolite G...Simple enough eh? I'm sure that the 2:1 ratio is not perfect,and that if you screw around with it long enough, that you'll find a better formula. Also, dunno why the book says 'anhydrous' hydrazine, hydrazine is already anhydrous... Hydrazine is the chemical you'll probably have the hardest time getting hold of. Uses for Hydrazine are: Rocket fuel, agricultural chemicals (maleic hydra- zide), drugs (antibacterial and antihypertension), polymerization catalyst, plating metals on glass and plastics, solder fluxes, photographic developers, diving equipment. Hydrazine is also the chemical you should be careful with. Astrolite A/A-1-5 ------------------ Ok, here's the good part... Mix 20% (weight) aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate, and then mix with hydrazine. The aluminum powder should be 100 mesh or finer. Astrolite A has a detonation velocity of 7,800MPS. Misc. info ---------- You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you,if it happens though, you should flush the area with water. Astrolite A&G both should be able to be detonated by a #8 blasting cap. Sodium Chlorate Formulas ------------------------ Sodium Chlorate is similar to potassium chlorate,and in most cases can be a substitute. Sodium chlorate is also more soluble in water. You can find sodium chlorate at Channel or any hardware/home improvement store. It is used in blowtorches and you can get about 3lbs for about $6.00. Sodium Chlorate Gunpowder ------------------------- 65% sodium chlorate 22% charcoal 13% sulfur and sprinkle some graphite on top. Rocket Fuel ----------- 6 parts sodium chlorate mixed *THOROUGHLY* with 5 parts rubber cement. Rocket Fuel 2 (better performance) ---------------------------------- 50% sodium chlorate 35% rubber cement ('One-Coat' (tm)) 10% epoxy resin hardener 5% sulfur You may want to add more sodium chlorate depending on the purity you are using. Incendiary Mixture ------------------ 55% aluminum powder (atomized) 45% sodium chlorate 5% sulfur Impact Mixture -------------- 50% red phosphorus 50% sodium chlorate Unlike potassium chlorate,sodium chlorate won't explode spontaneously when mix- ed with phosphorus. It has to be hit to be detonated. Filler explosive ---------------- 85% sodium chlorate 10% vaseline 5% aluminum powder Nitromethane formulas --------------------- I thought that I might add this in since it's similar to Astrolite. Nitromethane (CH3NO2) specific gravity:1.139 flash point:95f auto-ignite:785f Derivation: reaction of methane or propane with nitric acid under pressure. Uses: Rocket fuel; solvent for cellulosic compounds, polymers, waxes, fats, etc. To be detonated with a #8 cap, add: 1) 95% nitromethane + 5% ethylenediamine 2) 94% nitromethane + 6% aniline Power output: 22-24% more powerful than TNT. Detonation velocity of 6,200MPS. Nitromethane 'solid' explosives ------------------------------- 2 parts nitromethane 5 parts ammonium nitrate (solid powder) soak for 3-5 min. when done,store in an air-tight container. This is supposed to be 30% more powerful than dynamite containing 60% nitro- glycerin, and has 30% more brilliance. A few questions: 1) Does anyone know how to make 'knockout gases'? 2) What's on the handkerchief you see people in the movies use to knockout people? 3) Does the formula for chloral hydrate in 'Poor Man's James Bond' work? Normally chloral hydrate is 1:5, chloral to water..but in PMJB it's 1:2. Also, what's the calcium oxide for? ps- Kurt Saxon doesn't know shit about drugs! [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:142 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] ___________________________________________________________________________ /___________________________________________________________________________\ / | | \ | ! The Firey Explosive Pen ! | ! | | ! | ! Written by Blue Max of Anarchist-R-Us ! | \ |_________________________________________________________________________| / \___________________________________________________________________________/ Here's a GREAT little trick to play on your best fiend (no thats not a typo) at skool, or maybe as a practial joke on a friend! Materials Needed ---------------- 1] One Ball Point `Click` pen 2] Gun Powder 3] 8 or 10 match heads 4] 1 Match stick 5] a little sheet of sand paper (1 1/2" X 2") Procedure --------- 1] Unscrew pen and remove all parts but leave the button in the top in the pen. 2] Stick the match stick in the part of the pen clicker where the other little parts and the ink fill was. 3] Roll sand paper up and put around the match stick that is in the clicker. 4] Put the remaining Match Heads inside the pen, make sure that they are on the inside on the sand paper. 5] Put a small piece of paper or something in the other end of the pen where the ball point comes out. 6] Fill the end with the piece of paper in it with gun powder. The paper is to keep the powder from spilling. The Finished pen should look like this: Small Paper Clog Gun Powder Matches & Sandpaper \ | | \ | | \ _________________|____________________|________ <_______________________________|_______________|=== / Clicker / Planting The Device ------------------- There are many ways to use this little device. Here are a few of my Favorite way to use this hendy little Anti-Personal-Device In School --------- 1] Replace it with a friends pen, it helps if it is the same color Style. But if you get it there and he/she goes to write, watch the sparks fly! 2] You know how all these poor nigs are always asking you for a pen well this is the way to fix it! just give 'em this little pen and I gurantee they will neer ask you for another pen again. 3] Replace the teachers pen with it. In The Office ------------- No Office experience, unless its the schools office, replace it with the principals or receptionist pens. They'll get a `bang` out of it! [%=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=%] [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:145 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] /_-_._-_._-_._-_._-_._-_._-_._-_._-_._-_._-_._-_._-_._-_._-_._-_._-_._-_._-_\ /_ _\ /_ _\ /_ Getting others to Commit Suicide _\ /_ _\ /_ By The Blade _\ /_ _\ /_ _\ /- A Neon Knight Presentation _\ /_ _\ /_- The Metal AE 201 879 666-8 PW-KILL!!! _\ /<=-----------------------------------------------------------------------=>\ Ahhh, I haven't written a file in quite a long time... Being a Senior fuckin cranks... Party when ever you want, get laid by fresmen and sophmores, its just generally fucking great... Well, lately, there has been many Suicides lately. A little while ago, here in beautiful NJ, 4 teenagers said their last rites and started the car up in the garage. This brought a smile to my face, you see, the more people dead, the better off you are in the game of life. When people our age die, that means the rest of us have a better chance of getting into the college we want, cause there is less of them to compeate with. There are more jobs to have, and maybe you might find one you like. There is more food and other material products, and this keeps the price of everything down. Its just better for the whole society. Who cares about the mourning family, they'll get over it, as you know who says "another day, another death"... Death is a fact of life for everyone, and the more dead, the better. HOW YOU CAN HELP: ----------------- Find somebody that looks (as follows) like this: -Real Ugly, someone who needs to be put out of misery, and so we don't have to look at them -Real Quiet, these people usally have something wrong upstairs, they can't deal with other people, they are no good to you anyway. -Real Stupid, everybody knows someone like this, like IQ of 98, someone who can be pursuaded easily into the act. -Someone with parents that prod them, like high pressure parents, who tell thier kids to do well in everything or die... (this is the good one) -Somebody who has tried committing suicide before, cause they are fucked up allready and they are the easist to convince. CONVINCING THEM: ---------------- Ok, find one of the above and try the first tactic, total harassment. Just rag and rag and rag and rag on them, tell them their mother sucks black cock in hell, send letters saying that they are illegitimate, saying that they are drafted into the Marines.. Call them up and tell her mom that she does Crack and she's pregnant. Get a guy that looks like a total scumbag biker with chains and shit and tell her mom that he's ready to pick her up for their orgy. Or if its a guy tell him 'yo maun, i got de stuff, wheres de money??"... Just make their total life hell. OR Befriend them, get real close to them, tell them you love them, you want to be with them forever (in hell). Get close to the parents to, act real nice, kiss some ass, be a real goody 2 shoes, feel like part of the family. Then make up some crisis you supposedly had at home, say that your dad is gonna kick you outa the house if (you dont cut that hair)...sorry... you dont get a job and pay for everything you use. Say that he grounded your for 5732 days and you can't go anywhere. Then lie to the other kid's parents and tell them something like your (son) daughter's is hooked on drugs and get her in trouble. Then at night tell the other party to meet you somewhere, like on a bridge, anywhere that you can die easily. Then make her feel like shit and ask (demand) her to go in a suicide jump together, go 1-2-3, she jumps you stay where you are and laugh. PACTS: ------ Suicide Pacts are the best way to get rid of alot of people at once. Pacts usally consist of 2 to 6 people, (unlike my good friend Jim Jones who wiped out over 300 with poisoned Kool-Aid), and are usally done in a painless way. Try to find a bunch of depressed people and tell them to join your little group that meets twice a week to 'talk' about everyones problems. Bullshit with them for a week or two, show a few other ways out of depression (which should'nt work) then tell them (strongly) about a easy way out, convince them into a SUICIDE PACT. Probability is that if 2 or 3 agree with it, the whole group will do it, and that's just dandy!. PRE-ACT TACTICS: ---------------- Now since this person is never going to be around any more, and if you say you are going with them, tell the other party to give you all their belongings so you can 'give it to charity, someone who really needs it'. Of course all the goods go to bank account and some good blow. Also, if you play your cards right, you can take out a life insurance policy on the person and make 10g's to 1 mil, depending on the company and how stupid they are. Or if you forgot about the pre-act tactics just go to the parents and say 'She would want me to have this' (a $2500 pioneer stereo rack system), a few weeks after the death, and cry when you do it. WAYS OF SUICIDE: ---------------- The folling is a list of many ways to get the person to commit suicide: -Carbon Monoxide, as in automobile exhaust, a very painless way to die. You just sit in the car, in a garage, and it feels like you are going to sleep. -A Gun, also another painless way, point the gun at the temple (head), aim on an angle towards the lower base of the skull, instant DEATH. -Slitting of the Wrists, very stupid, painful at first, but eventually you go into shock. This way of suicide has the highest failure rate due to people chickening out, it lasts from 20 mins. to sometimes 3 hrs. not a good way. -Jumping off a tall building, a good way, because %50 of the people that jump DIE of fright before hitting the ground. Somewhat tramatic for the 4 seconds you are in the air, but more or less, a good way. -Jumping in front of a Bus, Train, or any Large vehicle, a %75 percent success rate as long as your head hits againt the oncoming force quickly. People have been mangled and lived through it, and you don't want that to happen, you want to DIE REMEMBER?? -Overdose of Drugs, a somewhat lame way to go depending on the drug... also you need to take the right amount due to if you take too much, you will just throw it up and suffer for 24 hrs... not to much, not to little, you can determine by the recomened doseage. Sleeping pills are probably the most painless, you just pass out. Overdoses of drugs such as Acid,LSD,and other phyco drug is another stupid way to go, and if you live through it you are a vegetable for the rest of your fucking life. Drowning- A bad way to go, due to suffication people who have lived through a near drowing say "It fucking sucks" to put it in laymens terms, not suggested. Hanging- good if you do it right. In the old west they used a more or less 'painless' way of hanging. When they released the lever, your neck broke and usally you couldnt feel anything anyway, and before you knew it, you we DEAD. A relitivly good and graphic way to go. Running your car off a cliff- Very stupid unless you have a high cliff or mountain. People usally try to pull out at the last second, and end up paralized for life. Not recommended. Electricution- Not bad, as long you have a good current. Go to your local power substation and ground yourself to something, and as soon as you touch the ends of those big semi-condutors, you're history. Poison- Same as drugs. Stabbing yourself- Usally reserved for Sickos, a very painful way to die, and you watch yourself bleed to death. Pretty beat way to go. Drinking yourself to Death-Sounds fun, should try it sometime....but seriously, probably not a bad way to go, get wasted, and die! Get grain alcohol, 199 proof, good shit. Well, im probably missing like hundreds of more ways, but this file is just to get you started in the game of life. Good luck, and keep track of your results. :-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-: : : : Call these SUICIDAL lines : : : : The Metal AE/BBS-10megs-3/1200-all METAL...........201 879 6668 : : Metalland West AE/BBS/FUR/T-10 MEGS................503 538 0777 : : The Dark Side AE/BBS 35megs-12/2400................408 245 7726 : : Speed Demon Private BBS-Private....................415 522 3074 : : Upside-Down AE/BBS-20megs-1200only.................201 398 2953 : : DL's Data Service AE/BBS...........................305 395 6906 : : : :_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_: Of course thanks to: Killer Kurt, Lustfer Deth, Zandar Zan, The Metallian, Tom Araya, Kerry King, Jeff Haneman, The Necrophiliac, Kracker, Crack, Blow, The Sisters of SODOM, Master of Reality, The Rocker, Necular Deth, Bit Butcher, JT, Jolly Rodger, Bergenfield NJ, The Metal AE for distribution, smoke, All D/T/S/SS METAL, SLAYER, The Outland, and all members past and present of The Neon Knights. _._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._. Written on April 4, 1987. (C) 1987 by The Neon Knights All Rights Reserved Any part of this file may be used in the News Media as long as The Blade and The Neon (fucking) Knights are given credit. YOURMOTHERSUCKSCOCKSINHELL!!!!!! _._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._._. [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:149 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] ************** ** ** ** ** ** @@@ @@@ ** ** @ @ @ @ ** ** @@@ @@@ ** ** ** ** @ @ ** ** @ @ ** ** @@@@@@@@@@@@@@ ** ** ** ************** ______________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________ .............................................................................. A DEAD CAT WHISKER PRODUCTION HOW TO BLOW UP A CAR: A different way by THE FLYING HERMIT .............................................................................. ______________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________ There are times in a man's life when he gets mad at someone. And then there are times when he gets REAL mad at someone. These are the times for vengence. And what better way to get back at someone than damaging his/her car. The thing which s/he has saved up for, worked hard for, and paid for. Yes!!! This is the item which you must attack, for most of the time, it is parked outside, easily accesible at night and very important to the asshole you want to annoy. The method I will describe is relatively easy and safe to set up, but very effective in causing damage. The method of destruction will be explosion. The explosive device is already inside the car, factory installed just for you to use. It is the standard 12 volt car battery. Let's look at the princleple behind the exploding battery: you are by now familiar with the theory of how batteries work, and if you aren't, your probably too young to be thinking of these sorts of things. Anyway, within the battery, is not only a current flowing from positive to negative (actually, it is from negative to positive, but that's another story), but also a small internal resistance. The resistance inside the battery is in the order of magnitude of roughly .0024 OHM, an amount so small, it is usually ignored. But, that is for normal operation of the battery. The case we're interrested in is for the closed circuit of the battery by itself. For a closed circuit, the internal resistance becomes a big deal, and the following holds true: (voltage) divided by (resistance) equals (current) or V/R=I let's calculate 12volt/.0024 ohm = 5000 amps Amazing!!!!! by causing a short circuit (closed circuit), the battery produces 5000 amps of current running through that little bugger. However, this current is short lived, and the battery cannot handle this capacity for long, so therefore the battery explodes. It explodes with a rather large force, causing considerable damage from the pressure, flames, and hurling lead. All these goodies combined with the volatile liquids hidden inside the engine will cause the vehicle to add another member to the big junk yard in the sky. Great!! now we know how to make the car blow up, but we don't want to go up with hte car, so what we need is a triggering device. one can go from the simple to elaborate, by incorporating sophisticated devices such as radio transmitters, but for our purposes, we will opt for a simple timer and relay device. First, we will need some heavy cable, capable of handling the massive current without melting, then we will need a relay also able to cope with large currents. Next, we need a timer which will count down the seconds to our triuphant vengance. And finally, a small battery to run the relay (the small battery will run both the relay and the timer if you are using a digital timer). Now: Connect the small battery to the timer, the timer to the relay, and the relay to the car battery. Connect the heavy duty relay to the the car battery with the heavy cable. There you have it!!!! __________________ small batt / ____ _| _____ _________________ ______/ / _||________||_ | |___| | | \_______/ / | CAR | | |___| ___|TIMER|___|relay| / | BATTERY | | / | | |_____| / |______________| |____________/ |_____| \_______/ remember, tinkering with other people's property is a no-no, and officer friendly might get ugly with you if he sees you doing this, so be forewarned. Also, car batteries are dangerous to play with, and if handled improperly, may explode unintentionally, causing the concentrated acid to spray in your face, making you look like the elephant man. so don't come crying to me when something happens, cause i'll just laugh at you and possibly urinate over you if you rub me the wrong way. .............................................................................. __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ written by the flying hermit 'summer 87' a dead cat whisker production __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ .............................................................................. call the RIPCO bulletin board, 'a hell of a bbs' at (312) 528-5020 finisthe RIPCO bulletin board, 'a hell of a bbs' at (312) 528-5020 [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:152 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] MERCURY BATTERY BOMB! --------------------- By Phucked Agent! Materials: 1 Mercury Battery (1.5 or 1.4 V Hearing Aid) 1 working lamp with on/off switch Procedures: It is VERY SIMPLE!!! Hurray! Kids under 18 shouldn't considered try this one or else they would have mercuric acid on their faces! 1. Turn the lamp switch on to see if lite-bulb light up. 2. If work, leave the switch on and unplug the cord 3. Unscrew the bulb (Dont touch the hot-spot!) 4. Place 1 Mercury Battery in the socket and make sure that it is touching the Hot-spot contact. 5. Move any object or furniture - Why? There may be sparx given off! 6. Now your favorite part, stand back and plug in cord in the socket. 7. And you will have fun!! Like Real Party!!! If your house is on fire (VERY RARE), get that damm fire blower! This stuph will NOT destroy your plugs, but maybe the fuse depending how often you do that.... Best try outside or college dorm... TRY SKIDD'S LAB BBS 312-631-5256 [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:156 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] PIPE BOMB Danger Explosives \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ HOW TO MAKE A REALLY NICE PIPE BOMB OUT OF EVERYDAY MATERIALS. 1) GO TO YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE STORE AND TELL THE GUY THAT IS HELPING YOU THAT YOU WANT A PIECE OF STEEL PIPE ONE FOOT LONG. AND ALSO THAT YOU WANT THE ENDS THREADED AND YOU ALSO WANT CAPS TO PUT ON THE END. 2) NOW GET AHOLD OF A BABYFOOD JAR. MAKE SURE THAT THE JAR WILL FIT DOWN THE PIPE REAL EASY LIKE. FILL THE BABYJAR WITH EVERYDAY VINEGAR. MAKE SURE THE TOP IS SCREWED ON REAL TIGHT. **IF IT IS LOOSE YOU WILL BLOW YOUR HAND OFF** 3)NOW CAP ONE END OF YOUR PIPE WITH ONE OF THE CAPS THAT YOU SHOULD HAVE PICKED UP WITH THE PIPE. IF YOU KNOW OF SOMEONE WITH A WIELDER, HAVE HIM WIELD A BEAD AROUND THE THREADS AFTER YOU HAVE IT CAPPED. 4)PUT SOME SMALL SHARP ROCKS DOWN THE END OF THE PIPE AND THEN SLIDE THE BABYJAR DOWN INSIDE SO THE GLASS END IS AGAINST THE LITTLE ROCKS. NOW EMPTY A MEDIUM BOX OF ARM AND HAMMER BAKING SODA INTO THE PIPE. CAP THE OTHER END OF THE PIPE AND IF YOU CAN WIELD IT, THEN GO FOR IT. **BE FUCKING CAREFUL** YOU MIGHT BREAK THE JAR INSIDE AND YOU WON'T KNOW THAT YOU BROKE IT UNTIL YOU SEE YOUR HAND FLY OFF!!! 5)NOW, WHEN YOU WANT TO BLOW SOMETHING UP, JUST SMACK THE END OF THE PIPE THAT SENDS THE JAR INSIDE DOWN AGAINST THE SMALL ROCKS. OH YEAH, SMACK IT AGAINST SOME CONCREAT. THIS BREAKS THE JAR AND THE VINEGAR AND BAKING SODA MIX TOGETHER AND BUILDS UP PRESSURE. WHEN IT GETS TO THE CRITICAL POINT....WHAMMY!!!! ******IMPORTANT****** AFTER YOU HIT THE PIPE AGAINST THE GROUND, GET THE HELL RID OF IT!!! TOSS IT INTO SOMEONES CAR OR SOMEWHERE. SOMETIMES. IT TAKES FIVE MINUTS FOR IT TO GO OFF. SOMETIMES TWO. BUT IT WILL GO OFF! TRUST ME! I DID THIS WHEN I WAS LIVING IN ARIZONA. MY FREIND THAT TAUGHT ME THIS WAS A DEMOLITIONS EXPERT FOR THE NAVY. THE FIRST TIME I DID IT. WE TOSSED THE PIPE INTO AN OLD HOUSE AND IT BLEW ALL FOUR WALLS OUT!! THE SECOND TIME WE DID IT, WE TOSSED IT INTO AN OLD CAR. AND IT PHUKING BLEW ALL FOUR DOORS OFF AND THE ROOF THREE FEET INTO THE AIR!!!! WHEN WE BLEW U THE HOUSE, WE WAITED FIVE MINUTS AND I THOUGHT THAT IT WOULDN'T GO OFF. SO I CRAWLED OUT OF THE DITCH THAT WE WERE IN. WHAMMY!! JUST THEN IT WENT OFF! IT THREW ME BACK FIVE FEET BACK INTO THE DITCH! IF YOU FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS REAL CAREFULLY. THEN YOU WON'T GET HURT. I WILL TALK TO YOU ALL LATER. AND TELL ME WHAT YOU HAVE BLOWN UP!!! From the dusty G-phile jar comes some phun!! lets go blow something up now!! Brought to you by The Ice-Man [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:169 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] How to make a Milk Carton Bomb written by XTX-101 The author of this file takes no responsability for any actions of others reading this file. The writer is in no way responsible for any possible injuries, property damage, and so forth. This file is for informative purposes only. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ A milk carton bomb is relitively simple and safe. It's only purpose it to create a loud noise. The ingredients needed to make this are few and easy to aquire. You will need a plastic milk carton, lighter fluid(type used in cigarette lighters), a piece of paper, and a pair of chopsticks. If you can not obtain chop sticks, it's okay to substitut e them with something that can hold the paper and is long enough so that you won't be harmed by the flames. After aquiring all of the ingredients, you can now start to make the bomb. The procedure is easy. First, puncture a hole at the bottom of the milk carton with a screw driver or equivalent. Next fill one-fourth of the milk carton with lighter fluid. P lace the milk carton in a fairly large area outisde. Hold a piece of paper between the chopsticks and light the paper with a match. Cautiously place the lighted paper under the hole of the carton and BOOM! You have your loud explosion with little dama g e to the surrounding area. It would be a good idea to have some water handy to extinguish any flames. Be careful when doing this and have fun. |>E|< [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:171 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] ][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][ ][//////////////////////////////////][ ][/////////REAL/PIPE/BOMBS//////////][ ][//////////////////////////////////][ ][//////////////-=BY=-//////////////][ ][//////////////////////////////////][ ][//////THE/DARK/LORDS/OF/CHAOS/////][ ][//////////////////////////////////][ ][////PROWLER///////////////////////][ ][///////APPRENTICE/////////////////][ ][//////////PRO/HACK////////////////][ ][//////////////ZEUS////////////////][ ][////////////////TARKMETH//////////][ ][///////////////////BLACKSTOKE/////][ ][//////////////////////////LAZER///][ ][//////////////////////////////////][ ][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][ STUFF YOU'LL NEED: ------------------ AN 8 INCH SECTION OF PVC CONDUIT 1" IN DIAMETER 2 PIPE CAPS (THAT WILL FIT THE PVC) SOME SORT OF PROPELLANT SOME GREEN WATERPROOF FUSE A TUBE OF FORMA-GASKET, OR SOME SORT OF SEALANT A HOT GLUE GUN A DRILL WITH A SMALL BIT ASSEMBLY: --------- PUT ONE OF THE CAPS ON THE PVC, SEAL IT, AND LET IT DRY. FILL THE PIPE HALFWAY FULL WITH YOUR PROPELLANT HOLD ONE END OF THE FUSE WHILE FILLING THE PIPE THE REST OF THE WAY WITH THE PROPELLANT. THE PIPE SHOULD NOW BE FULL OF THE PROPELLANT UP TO 1/3 INCH FROM THE TOP OF THE PVC. FILL IT THE REST OF THE WAY WITH HOT GLUE, AND LET IT COOL. DRILL A SMALL HOL IN THE REMAINING PIPE CAP, AND PUT IT ON THE PVC MAKE SURE YOU HAVE RUN THE FUSE THROUGH THE SMALL HOLE! NOW, SEAL THE CAP ON THE PIPE, AND SEAL THE SMALL HOLE AROUND THE FUSE HOLE. YOU NOW HAVE A WORKING PIPE BOMB WHICH IS ROUGHLY THE EQUIVALENT OF 1 STICK OF TNT. HOW YOU USE IT IS UP TO YOU. THIS FILE IS FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. I AM IN NO WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR ANYTHING YOU DO WITH A PIPE BOMB. YOU'RE YOUR OWN PERSON, SO IF YOU GO BLOW THE HELL OUT OF SOME FACIST PIG, I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE. (ALTHOUGH I'LL BE GLAD YOU DID IT) ++FILE BY PROWLER ON 3/10/88++ CALL THESE FINE SYSTEMS: --------------------------------------- PHREAK PIT.................609/646-5194 RIPCO......................312/528-5020 NEBULA.....................513/542-3135 --------------------------------------- FUCK 'EM IF THEY CAN'T TAKE A TOKE! [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort:176 [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] ***************************************************************************** * * * The Ninja Warrior * * Presents: * * Poison #1 * * * ***************************************************************************** THIS WILL BE A SERIES WRITTEN EVERY SO OFTEN TO INFORM YOU FUTURE NINJAS OR KILLERS OUT THERE. I WILL WRITE A SERIES OF PHILES ON THE SECRETS OF THE NINJA. THIS IS NO BULLSHIT YOU SEE IN THE BOOKS IN YOUR LOCAL MARTIAL ARTS STORE. THIS IS THE REAL SHIT. DON'T ABUSE YOUR POWERS. ***WARNING*** IF YOU FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS IN ANY OF THE SERIES AND YOU DO HARM SOMEONE BAD I WILL TAKE NO BLAME FOR IT. PLEASE DON'T INTEND TO USE THESE TRICKS AS A CHILDISH JOKE. SOME OF THE THINGS I MIGHT WRITE MAY BE VERY HARMFUL...MOST LIKELY DEADLY. BACKGROUND ---------- I WAS BORN IN JAPAN, RAISED AND TAUGHT THE ART OF NINJUTSU FROM MY FAMILY. I IMMIGRATED TO THE U.S. AND BECAME A U.S. CITIZEN. I'VE BEEN STUDYING THE ART FOR OVER 15 YEARS NOW. I AM REVEALING SOME OF THE SECRETS TO YOU SINCE MANY PEOPLE ARE WRITING BULLSHIT TO PLEASE THE KIDS, AND ALL THAT BULL MAKES ME MAD. IT SEEMS LIKE THE BOOKS CAN SOMETIMES DEGRADE US, THE PRESENT NINJAS. POISON ------ THERE WERE MANY TYPES OF POISON USED IN THE OLD DAYS IN JAPAN. MOST OF THE POISON WAS MADE AT HOME WITH PLANTS, HERBS, AND OTHER INGREDIENTS OBTAINABLE VERY EASILY. IN THIS SERIES I WILL DISCUSS A CERTAIN TYPE OF POISON WHICH HAS A DELAYING DEATH EFFECT. WARNING ------- THIS POISON IS DEADLY. I KNOW SOMEONE IN MY CLAN WHO HAS USED THIS TYPE OF POISON TO KILL A PHEW PEOPLE. IT WORKED FOR A WHILE BUT EVENTUALLY HE WAS CAUGHT. HE IS IN JAIL FOR A LIFE SENTENCE FOR MURDER. ======== POISON ======== THIS POISON WILL KILL THE AFFECTED VICTIM WITHIN A WEEK. THE REASON FOR THE TIME DELAY IS THAT THE POISON CAUSES THE VICTIM TO GET TETANUS. THIS PROCESS CAN BE FATAL, SO PLEASE BE VERY CAREFUL IN USING THIS POISON. THE POISON IS FAIRLY SIMPLE TO MAKE. USING IT TO KILL SOMEONE IS SOMEWHAT COMPLICATING. THIS IS AN INFECTIOUS POISON SO MAKE SURE YOU HAVEN'T ANY CUTS ON YOUR HANDS WHEN PREPARING THE POISON. INGREDIENTS: HORSE SHIT (EXTRACTED) HUMAN BLOOD (TYPE DEPENDS ON VICTIM) YOU CAN GET HORSE SHIT FROM MOST ANYWHERE NOWADAYS SINCE THERE ARE COPS WITH HORSES NOWADAYS. JUST WALK AROUND WHERE YOU KNOW HORSES PASS BY, AND GET A SMALL QUANTITY OF HORSE SHIT. DON'T GET A LOT CAUSE THAT SHIT STINKS. TAKE SOME HORSE SHIT PUT IT IN A TEST TUBE AND PUT A RUBBER STOPPER ON TOP. ONCE YOU OBTAIN THE HORSE SHIT, YOU MUST EXTRACT THE NECESSARY PART OF THE SHIT. YOU MUST REMOVE ALL THE HAY AND OTHER GARBAGE IN THE HORSE SHIT. YOU CAN REMOVE THE RUBBER STOPPER AND HEAT THE SHIT OVER A LIGHT FLAME. THE SHIT SHOULD START TO MELT AND THE JUNK IS EXTRACTED OUT OF THE SHIT. WHEN THE SHIT MELTS, DUMP IT ON SOME KIND OF FILTERING SYSTEM SO YOU CAN REMOVE THE JUNK. REPEAT THE PROCESS UNTIL MOST, IF POSSIBLE, ALL OF THE JUNK IS REMOVED. !!! CAUTION !!! THIS PROCESS STINKS UP THE WHOLE FUCKING HOUSE SO DO IT OUT SIDE. WHEN THE SHIT IS EXTRACTED, YOU MUST OBTAIN THE HUMAN BLOOD. THE TYPE OF BLOOD IS VERY IMPORTANT!!! FOR EXAMPLE...IF YOU WANT TO KILL THE VICTIM, YOU MUST USE THE BLOOD TYPE WHICH CORRESPONDS TO THE VICTIM: BLOOD TYPE A POS. NEEDS AN A POS. BLOOD IN THE POISON, AND SO FORTH. IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT THE INTENDED VICTIMS BLOOD TYPE IS, THAT'S OKAY. YOU CAN USE OTHER BLOOD TYPES AND MIX THEM LIKE TRANSFUSIONS OF BLOOD. BUT THE EFFECT OF THE POISON MAY BE DELAYED OR IT MAY NOT BE FATAL. BUT IT SHOULD DO THE TRICK. GET THE EXTRACTED HORSE SHIT AND MIX THE SHIT WITH THE BLOOD. THE PROPORTION OF THE BLOOD WITH RESPECT TO THE SHIT IS 3 TO 1, WHICH MEANS FOR EVERY 1 OZ. OF SHIT, THERE MUST BE 3 OZ. OF BLOOD, AND SO FORTH. HEAT THE MIXTURE AT A VERY LOW HEAT, AND THE MIXTURE SHOULD START BUBBLING. TRY NOT TO INHALE THE SMELL. IT'S KNOWN TO CAUSE CANCER IF YOU SMELL IT. DO NOT HEAT IT WITH A HIGH FLAME, SINCE THE BACTERIA IN THE SHIT AND THE BLOOD WILL DIE AND THE POISON WILL BECOME USELESS. HEAT THE TEST TUBE AND STIR THE CONTENT WHILE HEATING TO CREATE A BETTER MIXTURE. WHEN THE CONTENT STARTS TO CHANGE COLORS FROM RED TO BRICK BROWN OR REDDISH-BROWN, THEN REMOVE THE MIXTURE FROM THE FLAME. ALLOW THE POISON TO COOL OFF. WHEN THE POISON COOLS OFF, THEN YOU'VE JUST MADE ONE OF THE DEADLIEST POISONS AROUND. THIS IS NOT A TYPE OF POISON WHICH YOU CAN JUST SPILL ON THE VICTIM, NOR IS IT ONE THAT YOU CAN JUST PUT INTO SOMEONES FOOD. IT HAS TO ENTER THE VICTIM'S BLOOD STREAMS. TO DO THAT YOU MUST USE A NEEDLE OR A KNIFE TO RUPTURE THE SKIN IN SOME WAY IN ORDER FOR THE POISON TO WORK. THE NINJA IN THE OLDEN DAYS USED WHAT WAS CALLED FUKIYA AND FUKIBARI. THE FUKIYA IS A BLOWGUN MADE OF BAMBOO AND THE FUKIBARI WAS THE DART BLOWN OUT OF THE BLOWGUN. WE DIPPED THE DARTS IN THIS POISON, THEN BLEW THE DART OUT OF THE GUN IMMEDIATELY. WE USUALLY STRUCK THE VICTIM AT PRESSURE POINTS WHICH MADE THE VICTIM PASS OUT. WHEN THE VICTIM PASSED OUT, WE REMOVED THE DART AND LEFT THE SCENE. THE PERSON AWAKENS WITH TETANUS, AND DIES WITHIN A PHEW DAYS, NO LONGER THAN A WEEK. ANOTHER MURDER WITHOUT A TRACE. WHAT CAN BE DONE IN MODERN TIMES IS GET A NEEDLE DIPPED WITH THE STUFF AND JUST POKE THE VICTIM. MOST LIKELY THE VICTIM THINKS YOUR CRAZY AND CONTINUE TO FIGHT YOU. IF THE POISON ENTERED HIS BLOOD STREAM, HE WILL GET TETANUS. WHEN AND IF HE FINDS OUT THAT HE HAS TETANUS, AND GETS A PENICILLIN SHOT OR SOMETHING, HE WILL LIVE. BUT IF HE FINDS OUT TOO LATE OR DOESN'T FIND OUT AT ALL, HE WILL DIE. THERE ARE MANY OTHER WAYS OF GETTING THE POISON INTO THE VICTIM'S BLOOD STREAM. YOU WANTING TO BECOME THE TRUE NINJA CAN TRY MANY WAYS TO KILL WITHOUT A TRACE. I HOPE YOU WILL NEVER USE IT AS A JOKE. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO GET THE POISON INTO YOUR BLOOD STREAM. GOOD LUCK AND HAVE A NICE DAY. DATED: 01-05-1985 PLEASE DO NOT ALTER THIS PHILE IN ANY WAY. I WANT THIS PHILE TO BE COMPLETE AND STAY COMPLETE AS IT IS OFFERED TO MANY PEOPLE. YOU MAY SHARE THIS PHILE WITH ANYONE AND EVERYONE. BUT THE BEST WAY IS TO KEEP THE SECRETS WITHIN YOURSELF. NEXT SERIES: HOW TO MAKE A SMOKE SCREEN, AND ITS USES AND EFFECTS. uu Downloaded from Strictly Business (415) 583-1673 Press a key... From Lunatic Labs UnLtd. 415-278-7421 Press a key... [Ripco] Which 1-250 ?=menu,=abort: [Ctrl-S Stop/Start] [Spacebar to Exit] RIPCO Main G-Phile Menu 3/20/89 --------------------------------------- Sub-menu selections: last updated (1) Telecom Series 1/26/89 (2) Numbers 3/20/89 (3) Anarchy 3/20/89 (4) Telecommunications 3/20/89 (5) Misc. 3/20/89 (6) Apple ][ Files 12/26/88 (7) Newspaper & Law Articles 3/20/89 (8) Dox Files 3/20/89 (9) Game Solves 1/30/89 (10) Boxes 12/26/88 [Ripco] Which 1-10 ?=menu,=abort: Main Command Level [(>E [[- Electronic Mail System -]] [R]ead mail sent to you [S]end mail to another user [D]isplay backup mail file [E]rase backup mail Select R,S,D,E or to abort ->S [[- Send Electronic Mail -]] To who (#,B,):70 Send to ROGER RAMJET ?Y [[- System Editor V.4.0 -]] Enter message now, 79 col, 4k bytes max Type '/ex' when finished '.h' for help ROGER, I CALLED HAYA YESTERDAY AND TALKED WITH HER ABOUT HER INJURY. SHE SAYS SHE WAS IN HER HEALTH CLUB TRYING TO DO SOME NEW EXERCISE RECOMMENDED BY HER THERAPIST. SOMETHING WENT AFOUL AND SHE PULLED SOME MUSCLE. IN HER LOWER BACK. SHE HAS BEEN OFF WORK FOR A WEEK USING HER TIME DUE, AND IT DOESN'T APPEAR TO PRESENT ANY JOB-RELATED PROBLEMS. SHE MAY STOP BY AFTER CLASS FRIDAY IF WE GO TO LA VILLA, OR WILL TRY TO MAKE THE THAI TRIP NEXT FRIDAY. SHE DID SAY THAT IF YOU WANTED TO COME OVER AND EXERCISE HER LOWER BACK, SHE WOULD TICKLE YOUR EARS WITH HER BIG TOES. (AND NO NEED TO WRAP YOUR PACKAGE) EXPLAIN THAT ONE TO LINDA (WOULD SHE ACCEPT IT LIKE SHE DID WHEN YOU SCREWED RACQUEL WELCH OR SEKA? COHO /EX Editing (?=Help):O Wait...letter sent Main Command Level [(>O Terminate Connection Are you sure [Y/N]:Yes Goodbye COHO, you were caller #97274 Thanks for calling RIPCO Connected 18 mins, 0 secs ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- think alternatives Ripco / Chicago question authority ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- sA krI