/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\//\/\/\/\/\/\ | | | H O W T O O P E N S A F E S | | | | Written by Night Breeze | | FUN! Burglar turned Hacker PROFIT! | | January 1992 | | | | This phile cannot be modified without express permission | | from the author. Fuck the copyright laws, I'll kick your ass! | | | \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\//\/\/\/\/\/\/ In this document, I attempt to explain four methods for "cracking" home safes that do not need years of experience or too much practice. THIS PHILE IS FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY (heeheeheehawhaw choke gag) AND I AM NOT IN ANY WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR PHUCKED UP ATTEMPTS AT TRYING TO FOLLOW MY CONSISE INSTRUCTIONS THAT ANY MORON COULD DO BLIND-PHUCKIN-FOLDED! There are many ways to open or "crack" a safe. Some are very advanced, and some are by pure brute force. Many of the advance techniques require years of study and practice; often learned while incarcerated. In fact, many techniques are often learned while in prison, since invariably, the best pros make their homes there. The technique choosen for a safe is often based on the type of safe, in fact, some techniques are so specific, that they rely on exact makes and models of a particular brand. In recent years, safes are so scientifically exact that trying to crack them is an execise in futility for everyone but the most skilled Cracker. Obviously, this document will not be able to convey the many subtleties of the advanced techniques, however, there are many, many, safes out there that are perfectly crackable with only the barest of tools and the most modest of methods. A professional cracker chooses the safe that they will open before they ever get to it. Many are specialists in a particular style of safe and spend days "casing" a potential hit, but we, as amateurs, won't worry about that. The goal here is to allow the common house burgler who happens to find a safe and thinks "Cool, I think I'll try those techniques I read about.". The safes that are most easily opened are those older safes often found in the basements of the older houses in middle-lower middle class neighborhoods, since often, these houses used to be considered upper-middle class and many contains safes. Often these safes were embedded in the wall or floor, oh, say 30-40 years ago, AND ARE STILL BEING USED! Most people see a safe and feel they can trust it against burglers, and put all of their neat and valuable things in them. Misplaced trust. So, to recap, what we are looking for is an older safe, usually a dull, enamel black color in walls, or round grey safes found in the floors. If you are sacking a condo or a house in a nice, modern, neighborhood, don't waste your time on it...Now for some techniques... BUT FIRST, * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * GOLDEN RULE: Don't spend more than 20 minutes trying to crack a safe on * * site. What happens is that you will become engrossed in it * * and will forget about time. We know what could happen then. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * THE AXE & CROW-BAR TECHNIQUE ---------------------------- Sounds pretty crude, and it is. This technique works best with a rather large person on a wall safe or a stand-alone safe. Older safes are built very sturdy, however, the weakest point on the safe is the bottom. If the safe is in the wall or floor, use an axe and hack it out. We are talking about a heavy two-handed axe, not a wimpy one handed job. Get the safe out and turn it over so it's top is on the floor. Then start whacking on it with the sharp side of the axe in the center of the safe. You might be surprised to learn that the larger safes are easier to open than the smaller safes. Try to hack a "slice" into it as long as you can, but it's a waste of time if it is longer than 1/2 of the safe's width. Then, using the crow-bar and the handle or head of the axe, lever the opening large enough to get your arm into it. Then turn the safe onto it's side and reach in for the stash. Two words of caution here: 1. This can be loud so it's not recommended in quiet 'hoods, and, 2. Many of the older safes are lined with asbestos. If you see white, flakey material, make sure that you brush all of the material away before reaching in since you probably don't have health insurance covering such "occupational" hazards. THE SLEDGE-HAMMER PUNCH TECHNIQUE --------------------------------- Although it sounds like a brute-force method, actually, in it's time it was fairly sophisicated. This is my personal favorite. Behind every safe's dial is a gizzmo called a "spindle". The spindle is what the dial mechanism will turn until the right combination is given and the spindle is in the right position and the lock will open (see figure 1). Mechanism +----+ Dial +-++ / | | <-- Punch \ | || | | +-----+ || ||||||||| <- Tumblers | | | ||--v----v--- | | | ||-----^---^- | | +-----+ || ||||||||| \ | | | || Spindle || +-++ || figure 1 figure 2 Well, we don't have the time or the skill to open the safe by "ear", so what we do it pick up our trusty Sledge Hammer and whack off the dial. This can take two or three blows, (or four or five if you're a wimp), but the dial -will- come off. Now comes the do or die part. These spindles were casted in steel for years. About twenty years ago they started making the spindles using lead. If you get a Lead Spindle safe you gotta give it up right then or move on to another technique (remember the golden rule). If you are lucky, then you have a steel spindle and the next step proceeds. Take a tempered steel punch, see figure 2, which you got at a hardware store, and place the tip of the punch on the newly exposed spindle end. If you don't see it, it is covered, but is located (90% on older safes) in the center below the dial. Then pound on it with your handy-dandy sledge hammer until you feel a) the punch just seems to sink further in, like in clay, or b) you suddenly feel a release. If you think you are in (a), then you have a lead spindle and you are out of luck, but if you have a sharp release, then you are home free for the spindle snapped. Now you can take try the door, or if it still doesn't open, take a screw driver and try to get the spindle out. The door should then open freely for your pleasure.... THE DRILL METHOD ---------------- Now we are starting to talk about some more advanced techniques. Using a drill always requires a bit of knowledge about the safe. Or the time and place to experiment (see the Helpful Hints at the bottom of this doc). All safes have a lever, that you turn to open the door. This lever is "locked" in place until the right combination is entered. What would happen if we broke that lever? The handle would turn, right? Well, most of the time... There are often two or three shafts connected to the lever involved in the door's handle (see figure 3). If one or more of these shafts are broken, then you can get in. *------------------------------* <-- Safe | + | | *------------------+-----* | | | shaft 2 --> + | | | ||| 1 + Handle | | ___ \ + / | | | | dial-> / \++++O=== | | | | \___/ + | | | | / + | | | ||| shaft 3 + | <--- Safe Door | | + | | | *------------------+-----* | | + | *------------------------------* figure 3 You must have a extra-hardened drill bit about 1/4 inch in size. What you want to aim for is to drill a how into the front of the door so your bit drills through the various shafts. You first start with Shaft #1, for this shaft is connected to the dial. Don't worry if you have to drill two or three times (as long as the Golden Rule is watched), but you got to drill right through the shaft. Shaft #1 is the best because it make be enought to open the door right away. If not, then the best bet is to drill one or two inches below the dial, and if it still does not turn, then an inch or two above the dial. The door should open. In 99% of the cases, the shafts are arranged as a sideways T to the right of the dial. The more modern safes have double shafts in the 2 and 3 positions, which makes it a lot harder to drill out, not to mention harder metal, etc. THE HIGH-EXPLOSIVE TECHNIQUE ---------------------------- This is both a brute-force and a hight sophisticated method of opening a safe. It does require GOOD knowledge of using Plastique, TNT, or your favorite Bang Powder. The technique is simple and obvious. It is also obvious that you got to have the safe in a rather secluded place (you would be surprised at the number of burglarized houses that sport a hole in the living room...). You place the explosive on the dial or handle and KA-FUCKIN-BOOM! Now most people who try this for the first (or second, or third...) time will end up with SQUAT. You see, if you don't use enough explosive you don't open the safe. If you use too much explosive, you blow the fuck out of everything in the safe. Now I've only used this technique once, since I am normally nervous about handling things that go boom, but this is what I was advised to do (and did successfully): Use less explosive than you think you should (unless you know EXACTLY how much to put on) and detonate it. The door will be damaged but not opened. The trick is to keep using the same amount (or slightly less) each time as the door will be weakened each time it explodes. Don't use a little and increase it, thinking you will build up to the right amount. The other trick is to remember that explosives are called explosives because they explode OUT. This means that you want to place the explosives on the dial and place the safe on the ground so it sits ON THE DOOR. This way the explosive will bounce off of the ground back to the safe. Remember, always let the safe cool before trying to get everything out of it - high explosives make the edges of a open safe awful hot. The last tip is to make sure you're covered, 'cause if you use too much, safes are known to kill people when they fall on your head! HELPFUL HINTS ------------- There are not many, but they should still be kept in mind. 1. The Golden Rule: Don't spend more than 20 minutes trying to crack a safe on site. 2. If the safe can be carted away, DO IT. This gives you the ability to try more esoteric ways of opening it...And it's more fun than a Rubic's Cube. 3. When using a drill, make sure they are case hardened (don't worry about using so-called diamond drills), and that you carry at least two extras (a total of three) in case they snap. Also, pace your- self while drilling so the drill-bit does not get too hot and snap. 4. With every really great haul, consider buying a safe. This gives you ample opportunity to examine and experiment with more techniques advanced techniques. 5. Never brag about your exploits. Professional Crackers won't ever teach you anything if they think they are going to be compromised. ÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ This quality file was downloaded from E X T R E M E ------------+------------ ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿ /|\ ³ ³ / | \ ³ Portland Metro All Text BBS ³ / | \ ³ ³ / | \ ³ 2400: 731-5483 ³ / | \ ³ SysOp: Thing One ³ / | \ ³ ³ / | \ ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ d r e a m e s X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X Another file downloaded from: The NIRVANAnet(tm) Seven & the Temple of the Screaming Electron Taipan Enigma 510/935-5845 Burn This Flag Zardoz 408/363-9766 realitycheck Poindexter Fortran 510/527-1662 Lies Unlimited Mick Freen 801/278-2699 The New Dork Sublime Biffnix 415/864-DORK The Shrine Rif Raf 206/794-6674 Planet Mirth Simon Jester 510/786-6560 "Raw Data for Raw Nerves" X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X