Bombs/Explosives/Experiments Vinegar: 3-5% Acetic Acid Sani-Flush: 75% Bisulfate Tincture of Iodine: 47% Alcohol, 4% Iodine Rubbing Alcohol: 70% or 99% Isopropyl alcohol [*-> Household Substitutes <*-] Chemical Name Household Substitute Acacia Gum Arabic Acetic Acid Vinegar Aluminum Oxide Alumia Aluminum Potassium Sulfate Alum Aluminum Sulfate Alum Ammonium Carbonate Hartshorn Ammonium Hydroxide Ammonia Water Ammonium Nitrate Saltpeter Ammonium Oleate Bannana Oil Barium Sulfide Black Ash Carbon Carbonate Chalk Calcium Hypochloride Bleaching Powder Calcium Oxide Lime Calcium Sulphate Plaster of Paris Carbonic Acid Seltzer Carbon Tetrachloride Cleaning Fluid Cetyltrimethylammonium Bromide Ammonium Salt Citric Acid Citrus Fruits Ethylene Dichloride Dutch Fluid Ferric Oxide Iron Rust Furfuraldehyde Bran Oil Glucose Corn Syrup Graphite Pencil Tip Hydrochloric Acid Muriatic Acid Hydrogen Peroxide Peroxide Lead Acetate Sugar of Lead Lead Tetro-oxide Red Lead Magnesium Hydroxide Milk of Magnesia Magnesium Silicate Talc Magnesium Sulfate Epsom Salts Methyl Salicylate Wintergreen Oil Napthalene Mothballs Phenol Carbolic Acid Potassium Bicarbonate Cream of Tartar Potassium Bitartrate Saltpeter Potassium Chromium Sulfate Chrome Alum Potassium Nitrate Saltpeter Silicon Dioxide Sand Sodium Bicarbonate Baking Soda Sodium Borate Borax Sodium Carbonate Washing Soda Sodium Chloride Salt Sodium Dioxide Sand Sodium Hydroxide Lye Sodium Hydroxide Drain Cleaner Sodium Silicate Water glass Sodium Sulfate Grauber's Salt Sodium Thiosulfate Photographers hypo Sulfuric Acid Battery Acid Sucrose Cane Sugar Zinc Chloride Tinner's Fluid Zinc Sulfate White Vitriol [ ] * Generating Chlorine Gas * Get a large bottle and put AJAX in the bottom. Then pour some Ammonia down into the bottle. Since the gas is heavier than air, it will stay down in there unless you use large amounts of AJAX or Ammonia. [ ] * Chlorine + Turpentine * Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in Turpentine. Quickly drop it into the bottle of Chlorine. It should give off alot of black smoke and probably start burning... [ ] * Chlorine Fuse Bomb * Materials: -1 Large explosive (M-80 or above) -1 Large cylindrical cardboard container such as kool-aid drink mix -1 Roll of black electrical tape Fill the container half-way with comet cleanser. Then nestle the explosive on the cleanser. Pour more cleanser until container is filled, leave explosive's wick sticking out above the comet, stick fuse through plastic top to the container tightly. To ignite this bomb just light the fuse and move quickly. The bomb will explode and fill the air with poison gas. [ ] * Chlorine Gas * Materials: -1 Two liter bottle -1 Measuring cup -1 Bottle of chlorox bleach -1 Bottle of Ammonia Pour 1/2 a cup of chlorox into the bottle. Pour 1/2 cup of Ammonia into the bottle. Quickly screw on the cap to the bottle and throw the bottle far away. The cap will blow off releasing a deadly cloud of fumes. [ ] * Chloride of Azode * A good example of how ammonium nitrate can be chemically mixed with other substances, and impart its explosive qualities to these otherwise nonexplosive materials, is in the preparation of chloride of azode. 1. A quantity of chlorine gas is collected in a small glass beaker, and placed upside down on another glass beaker containing a water solution of ammonium nitrate. 2. Now the solution of ammonium nitrate is heated gently. While it is being heated, the surface of the solution will become oily, and finally small droplets will form and sink to the bottom of the beaker. 3. After this process is finished, remove the heat and drain off excess ammonium nitrate solution. The droplets that remain at the bottom of the beaker are chloride of azode of nitrochloride. Nitrochloride explodes violently when brought into contact with an open flame, or when exposed to temperatures above 212 degrees F. There are hundreds and hundreds of formulas for the use of ammonium nitrate, in different explosive compounds. For further information, a chemistry manual or handbook of explosives can be useful. [ ] * Hydrogen + Chlorine * Take the test tube of Hydrogen and cover the mouth with your thumb. Keep it inverted, and bring it near the bottle of Chlorine (Not one that has reacted with Turpentine) Say "Goodbye test tube", and drop it into the bottle. the Hydrogen and Chlorine should react and possibly explode (Depending on purity and amount of each gas) an interesting thing about this is they will not react if it is dark and no heat or energy is around, but when a light is turned on, enough energy is present to cause them to react... [ ] * Generating Hydrogen Gas * To generate Hydrogen, all you need is an acid and a metal that will react with that acid, try Vinegar (Acetic Acid) with Zinc, Aluminum, Magnesium, Etc. You can now collect Hydrogen in something, if you note Hydrogen is lighter than air. Light a small amount and it burns with a small *POP* Another way of creating Hydrogen is by an electrolysis of water, this involves separating water (H2O) into Hydrogen and Oxygen by an electric current. To do this you need a 6-12 Volt battery, two test tubes, a large bowl, two carbon electrodes (Take them out of any unworking 6-12 Volt battery), and table salt. Dissolve the salt in a large bowl of water. submerge the two test tubes in the water and put the electrodes inside them, with the mouth of the tube aiming down. Connect the battery to some wire going down to the electrodes. This will work for awhile, but Chlorine will be generated along with oxygen which will undoubtedly corrode your copper wires leading to the Carbon electrodes. (The table salt is broken up into Chlorine and Sodium ions, the Chlorine comes off as a gas with oxygen while Sodium reacts with water to form Sodium Hydroxide...) Therefore, if you can get your hands on some Sulfuric Acid, use it instead. It will not affect the water conduct electricity. [ ] * Creating Oxygen * Get Hydrogen Peroxide and Magnesium Dioxide (It's a black powder found in batteries) mix the two in a bottle, and possibly some vaseline. The two will react and give off oxygen. If the bottle is stoppered, pressure will build up and shoot it off, if stoppered too tight notice it will explode. [ ] * Iodine * Tincture of Iodine contains mostly Alcohol and a little Iodine. To separate them, put the tincture of Iodine in a metal lid from a bottle and heat it over a candle. Have a stand holding another metal lid directly over the tincture (about 4-6 inches above it) with ice in top of it. the Alcohol should evaporate, and the Iodine should sublime, but should form Iodine crystals on the cold metal lid above. If this works, you can use the iodine along with household ammonia to form Nitrogen Triiodine. [ ] *How To Make Nitrogen Tri-Iodide* Probably the most hazardous explosive compound of all is nitrogen tri-iodide. Strangely enough, it is very popular with high school chemsits, who do not have the vaguest idea of what they are doing. The reason for its popularity may be the ready availability of the ingredients, but it is so sensitive to friction that a fly landing on it, has been known to detonate it. The recipe has only been included as a warning and a curiosity. It should not be used. [1> Add a small amount of solid iodine crystals to about 20 cc. of concentrated ammonium hydroxide. This operation must be performed very slowly, until a brownish-red precipitate is formed. [2> Now it is filtered through filter paper, and then washed first with alcohol and secondly with ether. Tri-idodide must remain wet, since when it dries it becomes super sensitive to friction, and a slight touch can set it off. [*Nitrogen Triiodide*] Nitrogen Triiodide is a very powerful and very shock sensitive explosive. Never store it and be carful when you're around it- Sound, Air movements, and other tiny things could set it off. MATERIALS- 2-3G Iodine 15ML concentrated Ammonia 8 sheets filter paper 50ml beaker Feather mounted on a two meter pole Ear plugs Tape Spatula Stirring Rod Add 2-3g Iodine to 15ml Ammonia in the 50ml beaker. Stir, let stand for 5 minutes. Do the following within 5 minutes! Retain the solid, decant the liquid (Pour off the liquid but keep the brown solid...). Scrape the brown residue of Nitrogen Triiodide onto a stack of four sheets of filter paper. Divide solid into four parts, putting each on a seperate sheet of dry filter paper. Tape in position, leave to dry undisturbed for at least 30 minutes (Preferrably longer). To detonate, touch with feather. (Wear ear plugs when detonating or cover ears- it is very loud!) [*Nitrogen Triiodide #2] Five grams iodine three grams potassium iodide 20 ml. concentrated ammonium hydroxide filter paper & funnel. Stir the potassium iodide and iodine together in a beaker with 50 ml. of water. Add the ammonium hydroxide with stirring until no more precipitate forms. Filter and spread a thin layer of the wet solid on several filter papers. Break the filter papers into many small pieces and allow to dry for several hours. On drying, the paper is extremely sensitive to touch and will explode violently with the slightest disturbance. Can be handled safely when wet. Do not let any sizeable quantity of the dry material accumulate. --- I was able to buy concentrated ammonium hydroxide from a photographic supply. [ ] * Gun Powder * Materials: -3 Cups granulated potassium nitrate -2 Cups powdered charcoal -1/2 Cup sulfur -3 Pints Rubbing Alcohol -3 Cups Water 1. Place the alcohol in a 2 Gallon bucket 2. Place Potassium Nitrate, Charcoal, and Sulfur in a heat resistant 2 gallon bucket. Add 1 cup of water and mix very thoroughly until all of the ingredients are dissolved. 3. Add two more cups of water then place the bucket over an open fire and stir until you see small bubbles forming. 4. Remove the bucket from the fire and pour it's contents into the alcohol bucket. 5. Let the mixture set for about 5 minutes. Strain the liquid through a thick cloth, then squeeze in such a way that the powder left on it is formed into a good sized clump. 6. Place some screening over a dry bucket, and rub the clump of powder over it. 7. Pour the powder from the bucket over some sun-stricken cement to dry Remove from sun as soon as dry. You now have some gun powder to do with what you please... [*Gun Powder II (Easy Version)* 85% Potassium Nitrate 65% Potassium Chlorate 12% Charcoal 22% Charcoal 32% Sulfur 13% Sulfur Potassium Chlorate is the same thing as Sodium Chlorate or Salt Peter Mix dry, add water to make past, let dry, then crush to grain. Do not use metal object when crushing. [ ] * Fertilizer Explosive * Materials: -Fertilizer with containing no less than 32% total Nitrogen -A 1:1 mixture of Oil and Gasoline -16 Ounce bottle 1. Crush the fertilizer into a flour like substance 2. Mix 32 parts fertilizer to 1 part oil/gas mixture while stirring vigorously 3. Spoon mixture into 16 Ounce bottle 4. Insert blasting cap, just below the surface of the fertilizer explosive, ignite when ready. [ ] * Fertilizer Explosive # 2 * Materials: -Fertilizer with no less than 32% Nitrogen 1. Grind the fertilizer into a flour like substance 2. Mix 4 parts fertilizer to 1 part bronzing powder 3. Store in air-tight container until ready to use 4. When ready to use, go to step 4 of Fertilizer Explosive #1 [ ] * Sodium Chlorate/Sugar Explosive * Materials: -Sodium Chlorate -Granual sugar -Steel pipe threaded at one end and one end cap 1. Mix 3 parts sodium chlorate to 2 parts sugar 2. Screw on the end cap onto one of the threaded ends 3. Pour the mixture into the pipe 4. Insert a blasting cap just below the surface of the mixture [ ] * Picric Acid * Materials: -Asprin tablets -95% pure alcohol -Sulfuric Acid (from car battery; boil until white fumes appear) -Potassium Nitrate (Part II) 1. Crush 20 asprin in a glass container then add 1 teaspoon water and mix into a paste while stirring 2. Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of Alcohol to the asprin paste while stirring 3. Tape a paper towel over a glass container and pour the solution over it. Pitch the residue left on the paper towel. 4. Pour the filtered solution into a glass or ceramic dish 5. Heat a pan of water 160-180 degrees. Place the dish into the Alcohol/Water solution evaporates leaving behind white powder 6. Pour 1/3 cup of Sulfuric Acid into a jar then add the white powder 7. Place the jar into a pan of simmering water for about 15 minutes then remove the jar from the pan. The solution should turn yellow-orange in color 8. Add 3 teaspoons of Potassium Nitrate to solution while stirring vigorously. The solution will turn red then back to yellow-orange 9. Allow the solution to cool to room temperature while stirring occasionally 10. Pour the solution into a glass containing 1 1/4 cup of water while stirring vigorously 11. Filter the solution through a paper towel into a glass container 12. Wash the yellow particles that collect on the towel with 2 teaspoons of water. 13. Place the particles in a glass or ceramic dish and set in simmering water for 2 hours [ ] * How To Make Picric Acid * Method for the preparation of picric acid: 1. Phenol is melted and then mixed with a concentrated solution of sulfuric acid. The mixture is constantly stirred and kept at a steady temperature of 95 degrees C., for four to six hours, depending on the quantities of phenol used. 2. After this, the acid-phenol solution is diluted with distilled water, and an equal excess amount of nitric acid is added. The mixture of the nitric acid will cause an immediate reaction, which will produce heat, so the addition of the acid must be performed slowly, but more importantly the temperature of the solution must NOT GO ABOVE 110 degrees C. 3. Ten or so minutes after the addition of the nitric acid, the picric acid will be fully formed, and you can draw off the excess acid. It should be filtered and washed in the same manner as above, until the litmus paper tests show that there is little or no acid present. When washing, use only cold water. After this, the picric acid should be allowed to partially dry. Picric acid is a more powerful explosive than TNT, but it has disadvantages. It is much more expensive to make, and is best handled in a wet 10% distilled water form, as picric acid becomes very unstable when completely dry. This compound should never be put into direct contact with any metal, since instantly on contact there is a formation of metal picrate, which explodes spontanteously upon formation. [ ] * Electrical Blasting Cap * Materials: -.75 Grams of Mercury Fulminate -Picric Acid -Spent casing of at least .22 calibre (.45, .50, .38, etc...) -12" fuse with insulated wire 1. Strip about 1/4" of the insulation from the center of the wire 2. Drill 2 holes in the casing 3. Thread the wire so that the non-insulated area is inside the casing 4. Fill the casing with the Mercury Fulminate 5. When your done with step 8, connect one end of the wire to the positive lead of a battery (the higher the voltage the better) 6. Connect one end of the second wire to the negative lead and the second wire to a SPST or DPST or other 2-way switch (make sure the switch is in the off position) 7. Connect the other end of the first wire to the other end of the switch 8. Flip the switch whenever your ready to ignite the blasting cap. [ ] * How to make Mercury Fulminate for Blasting caps * 3.12 MERCURY FULMINATE Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating compounds. It can be detonated by either heat or shock, which would make it of infinite value to a terrorist. Even the action of dropping a crystal of the fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this material would probably use the following procedure: Method # 1 1. Take 5 grams of pure mercury and mix it with 35 milliliters of Nitric Acid. 2. The misture is slowly and gently heated as soon as the solution bubbles and turns green, one knows the silver mercury is dissolved. 3. After it is dissolved, the solution should be poured, slowly, into a small container of Ethyl Alcohol. This will result in red fumes. 4. After a half hour or so, the red fumes will turn white, indicating that the process is nearing its final stage. 5. After a few minutes, add distilled water to the solution 6. The entire solution is now filtered, in order to obtain the small white crystals. These crystals are pure mercury fulminate, but should be washed many time, and tested with litmus paper for any remaining acid. Method # 2 1. Mix one part Mercuric Oxide with ten parts Ammonia solution. When ratios are reached they are always according to weight rather than volume 2. After waiting eight to ten days, one will see that the Mercuric Oxide has reacted with the Ammonia solution to produce the white fulminate crystals 3. These crystals must be washed several times and tested with litmus paper for any remaining acid [ ] *Cheap Electrical Igniters Materials: pack of 100 silicon diodes (available at any electronic store; you know you got the right ones if they are very,very small glass objects.) pack of matches 1 candle Procedure: 1. light the candle and allow a large pool of molten wax to form in the top. 2. take a single match and hold the glass part of a single diode against the head....bend the wires around the head so that one wraps in an upward direction and then sticks out to the side...do the same with the other wire, but in a downward direction. The diode should now be hugging the match head, but its wires MUST NOT TOUCH EACH OTHER!!!! 3. dip the match head in wax to give it a water-proof coat (work under water) 4. repeat steps 1 - 3 to make as many as you want How to use: When these little dudes are hooked across a 6vDC battery, the diode reaches what is called break-down voltage. When most electrical components reach this voltage, they usually produce great ammounts of heat and light, while quickly melting into a little blob. This heat is enough to ingite a match head. These are recomended for use under water, where most other ingniters refuse to work. Enjoy! [ ] * Land Mine * Materials: -1 M-80 or other explosive -3 Wires -1 9 Volt battery -1 Solar igniter -1 Pressure plate switch 1. Connect the wire from battery to switch to solar igniter to battery 2. Replace fuse on M-80 with solar ignitor 3. Hide device under a light coat of dirt 4. Place switch in the path when switch is pressured the bomb will go off [ ] * Detonators * The most common time-delay device is an ordinary safety fuse. These fuses usually consist of a black-powder core surrounded with a fabric and then a layer of waterproof material. Although there are many different types, it can generally be said that safety fuses burn between 30 and 45 seconds per foot; however, check these figures when you make your purchase. Fuses can be bought from any mail-order pryotechnics company. Two with whom I have dealt are: Ecco Products Box 189 Northvale, New Jersey 07647 Westech Corporation P.O. Box 8193 Salt Lake City, Utah 84108 Double-coated waterproof fuse usually sells for 20 to 25 dollars for a thousand to fifteen hundred feet. I would advise purchasing this equipment, since homemade fuses are not to be trusted. Bombs can be detonated in many ways. The detonation and use of certain devices are based mainly on the cleverness and imagination of the saboteur. I will discuss several basic forms of detonators, both nonelectric and electric. However, there is an infinite number of variations, which may be better suited to individual situations. The first type is referred to either as a tension-release, or a wiretrap device. It operates on the principle of releasing the tension caused by a wound spring, on the firing pin, and allowing it to strike and set off a nonelectrical blasting cap. The nonelectrical blasting cap will in turn generate the necessary heat to ignite the TNT or dynamite. This can be implemented in many ways. A common method in which the wire-trip device can be employed is stretching a trip wire six inches above the ground. Another equally popular method of employing the tension-release device is attaching the taut wire to the back of a door, so that, when the door is opened, the tension is released, and the explosive ignites. A device very similar to the last one is the pull-trigger electric detonator. It functions in the same manner, in that a safety pin is removed from the striker or firing pin, causing it to move forward and connect with a metal plate. This connection with the metal plate completes the electrical circuit. The batteries have been connected by wires to an electrical blasting cap, a metal plate, and finally to the firing pin. Although professional supplies for this equipment are available at reasonable prices, the device can be constructed from household items. The construction of this device is as follows: two flashlight batteries are connected to each other, and then one wire is run from one end of the batteries to the electrical blasting cap, the other wire from the opposite end of the batteries to the metal plate. A third wire is run from the blasting cap to the firing pin. This now completes the fully cocked device. In the same manner as the explosive is detonated, so is the common military grenade. The principle of a tension release is the same. After the pin is pulled out of the military grenade, the spring is free to react, causing the primer to ignite the lead-spitter fuse, and it in turn will ignite the lead oxide and pentolite. The pentolite will release enough heat to ignite the TNT and cause fragmentation of the metal casing. The next type of detonating device I am going to discuss is called the pressure-trigger device. It is based on the application of pressure rather than its release, as in the previous devices. This mechanism is primarily used when an electrical circuit is employed. The plunger is pushed down; it forces one thin metal plate against another thicker metal plate. The batteries are connected, via the blasting cap, to each of these metal plates. Therefore, when they touch, the electrical circuit is complete, and the explosive will ignite. This type of device has several important advantages. First of all, it can be constructed away from the area it will be used in. This will cut installation time down to seconds. [ ] * Pressure Detonators * The next type of detonating device I will discuss is called a releas-of-pressure mechanism. This device employs exactly the same principles as the pressure-trigger device, except in reverse. The movement of the pressure plate, rather than down, is now up. This can be used effectively when a weight is placed on the pressure plate. Then when it is removed, the explosives will be ignited. To construct, use a heavy-duty spring beneath the first metal plate. Connect a wire from the blasting cap to the first metal plate. The second wire is then stretched from the bottom of battery "A", to the second metal plate. The third wire is run from the electrical blasting cap to the top of battery "B". When this is accomplished, the booby trap is fully cocked. When the weight on the pressure plate is remove, the spring will will force the second metal plate against the first, thus completing the electrical circuit and exploding the device. In a tension-release booby trap, when the tension, resulting from a wire pulling on a pliable metal strip, is released, the metal strip will snap back into another metal strip. Since the wires from the batteries and blasting cap are connected to either metal strip, when they touch, the circuit will be complete and it will detonate the explosive charge. This type of detonator is especially effective when attached to drawers, doors, or any movable object. [ ] * Mortars * Materials: -3" Long and 4" Diameter iron pipe, threaded at one end -End cap for pipe -Gun powder -9 Volt lantern battery and wires -1 Pound of small stones or other small metal scrap (hex nuts) -2, 20" X 20" rags -Paper bag -Light bulb 1. Screw the end cap on the pipe 2. Using a file, make a hole in the top of the light bulb 3. Fill the light bulb and sack with gun powder 4. Solder two very long wires to the base of the light bulb 5. Put the bulb in the sack with the wires hanging out. Fill the rest of the sack with gun powder 6. Put the sack into the back of the pipe. Make sure the wires lead out of the pipe 7. Wad up one of the rags and pack it into the pipe. Make sure the wires led out of the pipe. 8. Insert scrap, stones, shrapnel on top of the first rag 9. Wad up the second rag and pack it in at the top 10. Use some form of electrical tape 11. Use battery to ignite [ ] * Pressure Plate Switch * Materials: -9 Volt Lantern battery -Piece of wood size of the pressure plate you want -Four small pieces of wood approximately 1/4" thickness -A piece of flexible conductive material (sheet metal,cut coke can,etc.) 1. Nail the four extra pieces of wood to the corners of the largest piece of wood. 2. Connect one wire to the positive lead of the battery 3. Nail the stripped end of the positive wire to the center of the large piece of wood. 4. Solder a second wire to the piece of metal 5. Dig a hole where you want the pressure plate. Place the piece of wood into the bottom of the hole. Set the metal on top of the four supports. Cover with a loose, thin layer of dirt, leaves, etc. 6. Attatch a third wire to the negative battery lead [ ] * Briefcase Bomb * Materials: -Briefcase -Moustrap -9 Volt battery -Plastique -Electrical blasting cap 1. Remove all parts of the mousetrap except for the spring loaded lever 2. Attatch a wire to the positive lead of the battery and wrap it around the lever 3. Attatch a second wire to the negative lead to the battery to one end of the wire of the blasting cap 4. Attatch a second wire to the other end of the blasting cap wire 5. Put in a considerable amount of plastique into the briefcase 6. Insert blasting caps 7. Tape down the battery and mousetrap to the bottom of the case 8. Push back lever and tape the final loose wire (leads to blasting cap) to the mousetrap so that if the lever would be released. It would complete the circuit 9. Keeping the lever held back in it's spring-loaded position, close the briefcase top and lock it 10. When it's opened, the lever will spring shut, completing the circuit to the blasting cap, igniting the plastique and blowing them to hell... [ ] * Booby Traps * [Road Trap] This incorporates a wire-trip action to complete the electrical circuit. It is extremely simple to make, since all the equipment can be gathered around the house. The great advantage to this particular device is that the explosives are detonated when the vehicle is directly over it, so insuring maximum destruction. To construct a road trap, begin by digging three holes across a roadway. Into two of the holes place the explosive charges, and into the third place a regular car battery. Connect the first wire from the negative terminal of the battery via each of the blasting caps, in each charge, to a metal pin on one side of an ordinary clothespin. The clothespin must be kept open by a small wooden wedge, which is attached to a thin black wire stretched across the roadway. When the semi-invisible wire is pulled, the wodden wedge will fall out of the clothespin, thus closing the clothespin. When the clothespin is closed, the two metal pins will connect the electrical circuit, thus exploding the charges. [Walk Trap] This incorporates the same type of wire-trap action as described in the road trap. The walk trap is not electrically operated, it relies on a percussion detonator. When the wire is pulled, it pulls the safety pin out of the heavy firing pin. The heat created from the detonator's explosion will be sufficient to set off the TNT. This type of booby trap is especially effective in dense undergrowth where the trip wire cannot be readily seen (see figure). ###### ######## #[TREE]# ######## ###### || || /|| !:!.;!.!.;!:;.! / || !:;[Tall Grass];! Wire->/ || !;::!;;.;!.;;!.;! / || !.;..!;..;.:!.;!! / || ______________________!.!!;.!:..!..:!.!______/_____||_________________ -----[Board]----- / | ______ | / |----|heavy |---|---/ <-Safety Pin | |firing| | | \pin / | | \ / | | \/ | | | | | |------####-----| <---[### = Detonator] |///////////////| |/////[TNT]/////| |///////////////| |_______________| [Bangalore Torpedo] This is nothing more than a few sections of pipe filled with sticks of dynamite, sealed at the ends, and joined in the middle by couplings, thus permitting the torpedo to be of varying lengths. The cap at one end must have a small hole drilled in it, so that a fuse and blasting cap can be inserted. It can be used very effectively to destroy walls, barricades, and steel or iron doors. These are also great weapons against cars, trucks, and even trains. If piping of this sort is not available, you can make a substitute torpedo by taking a stick of dynamite and wrapping it tightly with electric tape and thin copper wire. To be effectvie, it should have many layers of each. [Homemade Hand Grenade] This is constructed from an empty, clean, condensed-milk can, attached to a wodden handle. It is then filled halfway with a layer of dynamite. In the dynamite is placed a nonelectric blasting cap, with a five to six second fuse. The dynamite is then covered with small pieces of iron, until the can is full. Seal the top of the open end closed, leaving a small hole for the fuse. / ====|==== =.:.|.:.= =:.:|.:.= <--[:.: = Iron Scraps] =.:.|:.:= =---|---= =///+///= =///+///= <--[+ = Non-electric Blasting Cap] =///+///= =///////= =///////= <--[/// = Dynamite] ========= ||| ||| <-- Wooden Handle ||| ||| [Anti-Personnel Grenade] This is constructed by taking a piece of pipe and closing it at one end, either by soldering or by screwing a cap on it. The pipe is packed tightly with dynamite, and sealed at the other end, leaving a small hole for the detonator, which is made in the following manner. A piece of one-eighth-inch tubing is fastened to the end of a piece of fuse, which in turn is attached to a detonating cap. On the other end of the fuse, a bit of cotton, saturated with chlorate of potassium and common sugar, is placed, followed by another piece of cotton and a little vial of sulferic acid. (This vial must be hermetically sealed, to prevent leakage). Finally, a piece of wood or iron, which can be easily moved, is packed in the remaining empty space. The piece of wood is placed there, so that when the pipe is moved the piece of iron or wood will fall against the vial of sulfuric acid and break it. Once the sulfuric acid contacts the potassium chlorate, the chemical reaction will cause a very hot flame, which will ignite the fuse and cause the explosion. If this type of device is placed in a roadway, or directly in the path of the enemy army, there is a good change it will be set off - either by a kick or by curiosity. [Book Trap] To construct this, you will need a large book, perhaps a thousand pages. The book should be hollowed out, leaving the edges intact. In this hollow place, put a dry cell battery and your explosive, and connect the wires. Fix two metal contact points to the edges of the book, and separate them with a wooden wedge, which is attached to the rear wall of the bookcase. This must be accomplished in such a manner that, when the book is removed from the shelf, the metal contact points will touch and complete the electrical circuit, thus causing the detonation of the explosive charge. [ ] BOOK BOMBS Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age where perpetrators of violence run wild. Bags and briefcases are often searched by authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual might intend to set off a bomb. One approach to disguising a bomb is to build what is called a book bomb; an explosive device that is entirely contained inside of a book. Usually, a relatively large book is required, and the book must be of the hardback variety to hide any protrusions of a bomb. Dictionaries, law books, large textbooks, and other such books work well. When an individual makes a bookbomb, he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate for the place where the book bomb will be placed. The actual construction of a book bomb can be done by anyone who possesses an electric drill and a coping saw. First, all of the pages of the book must be glued together. By pouring an entire container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket, and filling the bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be made that will hold all of the book's pages together tightly. After the glue-water solution has cooled to a bearable temperature, and the solution has been stirred well, the pages of the book must be immersed in the glue-water solution, and each page must be thoroughly soaked. It is extremely important that the covers of the book do not get stuck to the pages of the book while the pages are drying. Suspending the book by both covers and clamping the pages together in a vice works best. When the pages dry, after about three days to a week, a hole must be drilled into the now rigid pages, and they should drill out much like wood. Then, by inserting the coping saw blade through the pages and sawing out a rectangle from the middle of the book, the individual will be left with a shell of the book's pages. The pages, when drilled out, should look like this: ________________________ | ____________________ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |__________________| | |______________________| (book covers omitted) This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the book. After building his/her bomb, which usually is of the timer or radio controlled variety, the bomber places it inside the book. The bomb itself, and whatever timer or detonator is used, should be packed in foam to prevent it from rolling or shifting about. Finally, after the timer is set, or the radio control has been turned on, the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is taken to its destination. [Loose Floorboard Trap] This one utilizes the same principles as the Book Trap, in that is relies on two metal contact points touching to complete the electrical circuit. Beneath the loose floorboard are two strips of pliable metal of bamboo, each with a metal contact point, which will touch when pressure is brought down on the loose floorboard. [Gate Trap] This is an extremely simple, effective, and relatively safe booby trap. To cock the booby trap, pull the pin on a regular tension release grenade, and place beneath a swining gate, or anywhere that will supply the pressure necessary. When the gate is moved (either opened or closed), the pressure will be released and the grenade detonated. [Chimney Trap] Take three or four sticks of dynamite and tape them together. Attach a nonelectrical blasting cap, with a three or four foot fuse. Now tape the dynamite about five feet up on the inside of the chimney, leaving the fuse hanging loose downward. The end of the fuse should be about a foot or so up the chimney so that it is out of sight. When a fire is lit, the heat generated will ignite the fuse, and it will explode the charge, further up the chimney. This works extremely well, since most of the tamping is supplied by the very structure of the chimney. [Car Trap] It has many advantages, the most important being that you do not have to carry your own power supply, but rather use the ignition system of the car itself. Wires are run from the electrical blasting cap to points along the electrical ignititon system, and attached with alligator clips. When the key it turned, it will complete the ignition system, and thus explode the bomb. A good place to hide explosives is in the hollow cavity behind the dashboard, since then the full force of the explosion will be directed at the individuals in the front seat. [Pipe Trap] There are basically two methods of booby-trapping a pipe. The first is very similar to the chimney trap, except the intent is to blow off the smoker's head. A small amount of tetryl or lead azide is placed in the mouthpiece of the pipe, and a fuse is attached, which leads through the rest of the pipe to a point about one-quarter-inch beneath the bowl. When the smoker lights the pipe, the fuse will be lit, and burn down untouched, until it detonates the explosives in the mouthpiece, and blows the smoker's head off. The second method is a little more complex but just as effective. A very sensitive explosive is placed in the mouthpiece, as before, except an activated firing pin is placed in the stem of the pipe. The smoker will attempt to light the pipe and find he cannot suck through it. Believing the stem to be blocked with tar or nicotine, he will unscrew the threaded joint. The act of unscrewing will release the firing pin, and detonate the explosives. [Cacodyal] Since it is not feasible to make napalm in your kitchen, you will have to be satisfied with cacodyal. This made by chemically extracting all the oxygen from alcohol, and then replacing it, under laboratory controls, with metal arsenic. The formula for alcohol is C4 H5 O, whereas for cacodyal it is C4 H5 AR. Now, this new substance, cacodyal, possesses spontaneous inflammability, the moment it is exposed to the air. Therefore it can be put into a bottle and used like a Molotov Cocktail. If it is thrown, it will explode on impact, but this is not its real advantage. When it explodes, a dense white smoke is given off. This is white arsenic, a deadly poin. One inhalation will probably cause death in a matter seconds. [Molotov Cocktail] This is an incendiary bomb, which bursts into flame on breaking. A quart bottle is filled with 2/3 gasoline and 1/3 oil. A fuse is made of an old gasoline-soaked rag, and then stuffed into the mouth of the bottle. The bottle is corked, and the fuse is lit. It is thrown and, when it breaks, it will burst into flame. The enemy will not be able to extinguish the fire with water. These were used with varying degree of success in the struggle in Hungary. According to some reports they can disable a tank. [MOLOTOV COCKTAILS] First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov cocktail is now exclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They are extremely simple to make, and can produce devastating results. By taking any highly flammable material, such as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter fluid, turpentine, or any mixture of the above, and putting it into a large glass bottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb. After putting the flammable liquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in the liquid in the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly. Then, wrap some of the cloth around the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave a few inches of lose cloth to light. Light the exposed cloth, and throw the bottle. If the burning cloth does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on impact, the contents of the bottle will spatter over a large area near the site of impact, and burst into flame. Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with a more volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition. A mixture such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it strikes, and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such as this must be shaken well before it is lit and thrown [Whistle Trap & Other Handy Devices] A booby trap that has an effect similar to the one created by the pipe trap, is the whistle booby trap. It is constructed by separating the metal or plastic sides into their natural halves. This can be accomplished by steaming. Now, fill each half one-fourth full of an extremely friction- sensitive explosive. Before gluing the two halves together, include a small ball made of a rough sandpaper-like substance (glue some sand together). When the whistle is blown, the ball will bounce around inside the shell, creating enough friction heat to set off the explosive charge. An interesting booby trap can be constructed by using a bottle, full of a highly sensitive liquid explosive, which will detonate on the extraction of the cork. The cork is designed with a friction element that pulls through a sensitive explosive. When this booby trap explodes, it does extensive damage, due to the fragmentation of the glass. An extremely simple device for setting a time-delay fire is a book of matches, with a lighted cigarette stuck in it. This is then left upon combustible material. The cigarette, as it burns down, will light the matches, and they in turn will generate the heat necessary to ignite the other larger combustible material. Another incendiary time-delay device is constructed out of a candle, friction matches, and several rags soaked either in gasoline or kerosene. The candle is placed upright in the center of the bundle of matches. As the candle burns down, it will ignite the matches, and they will ignite the rags. One can usually expect about a fifteen-minute delay with this device. [ ] * Trap Light Bulbs * An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on the light. This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the overhead light socket. A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make. It also comes with its own initiator and electric ignition system. On some lightbulbs, the lightbulb glass can be removed from the metal base by heating the base of a lightbulb in a gas flame, such as that of a blowtorch or gas stove. This must be done carefully, since the inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum. When the glue gets hot enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base. On other bulbs, it is necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch or oxy-acetylene torch. When the bulb is red hot, a hole must be carefully poked in the bulb, remembering the vacuum state inside the bulb. In either case, once the bulb and/or base has cooled down to room temperature or lower, the bulb can be filled with an explosive material, such as black powder. If the glass was removed from the metal base, it must be glued back on to the base with epoxy. If a hole was put in the bulb, a piece of duct tape is sufficient to hold the explosive in the in the bulb. Then, after making sure that the socket has no power by checking with a working lightbulb, all that need be done is to screw the lightbulb bomb into the socket. Such a device has been used by terrorists or assassins with much success, since nobody can search the room for a bomb without first turning on the light. Materials: -1 Light Bulb -1 Gallon of gasoline -1 Tube of Epoxy glue -Liquid Soap 1. Place hole in the light bulb (See Below) * --- [ ] [ ] [ ] *[ ]* [ ] [ ] [ ] [-----] *-Mark where hole may be placed 2. Carefully pour some gasoline through the hole filling half the bulb 3. Carefully pour some liquid soap in to complete filling the bulb 4. Cover the hole with Epoxy glue 5. Make sure the switch is off and screw light bulb in socket, when the switch is turned on. The bulb will explode sending sharp fragments of glass all over... [ ] * Pipe Bomb (Easy Version) * Materials: -1 Threaded steel pipe with caps on the ends -1 Baby food or other small jar -Some small rocks -Some Baking Soda 1. Fill glass jar with Vinegar 2. Fit glass jar into steel pipe 3. Cap one end of pipe 4. Drop small rocks into pipe 5. Fill pipe with Baking Soda 6. Screw the other cap on tightly and then weld it shut. This is usually used as an impact explosive, toss it on a hard surface, the contact will break the jar, five to ten minutes later, it will explode [*Pipe Bomb*] Buy a section of metal water pipe 1/2 by 6 inches long, threaded on both ends. Buy two metal caps to fit. These are standard items in hardware stores. Drill a 1/16th hole in the center of the pipe. This is easy with a good drill bit. Hanson is a good brand to use. Screw a metal cap tightly on one end. Fill the (pipe to within 1/2 inch of the top with black powder. Do not pack the powder. Don't even tap the bottom of the pipe to make it settle. You want the powder loose. For maximum explosive effect, you need dry, fine powder sitting loose in a very rigid container. Wipe off any powder that has gotten onto the top or threads of the pipe. Gently screw on the second cap. Hand tighten only. Place a small piece of tape over the hole and go to your test site. Remove the tape and insert a two inch piece of black match fuse or a firecracker fuse into the hole. Place the bomb behind a large rock or tree. Using thread or string, lightly tie a 2 inch piece of sulfured wick to the end of the fuse. Avoid letting the wick touch any objects. This might cause it to go out. Light the wick and head for cover in a direction that keeps the rock or tree between you and the bomb at all times. Get behind cover at least 50 yards away. You may not expect such a large explosion from such a small object. The pipe will be blown to pieces which will fly through (the air like bullets. An accident could seriously wound or kill you. This is not a big firecracker. It is more like a hand grenade. The size of the bomb can be increased by using a larger pipe end caps. To make a big noise without blowing up your pipe, cap one end only. Drill a 1/16 hole at the top of the threads at the capped end. Put in about 3 to 4 rounded teaspoonsful of powder. Pack about 2 inches of wadding on top of the powder. Toilet paper or kleenex is good for this. Pack it tight. Open up a safety pin and stick it into the hole. Work it around to loosen up the powder so a fuse can be inserted. When this goes off, the recoil will be tremendous. You will loose your pipe unless you brace it securely against (something. The pipe can be reloaded and used again. A fun trick is to mount the pipe pointing upward. Drop a tin can over the open end and light the fuse. The can will be blown high into the air. Campbell's soup cans are great for this. [ ] * Nitro Explosive * Materials: -65% Nitric Acid -20% Glycerine -15% Sulfuric Acid 1. Mix these into solution form. This should explode by heat, impact or fuse. [ ] * Nitro Compound II * Petroleum jelly and Potassium Chlorate in a 1:1 ratio by weight make a totally safe when wet compound, but is highly explosive and shock sensitive when dry. [ ] * Formulas For Ammonium Nitrate Compounds * [1> Ammonium nitrate 60 [2> Ammonium nitrate 34 Potassium nitrate 29.5 Potassium nitrate 34 Sulfur flour 2.5 TNT 17 Charcoal powder 4 Ammonium chloride 15 Woodmeal 4 [4> Ammonium nitrate 70 [3> Ammonium nitrate 59 Ammonium sulfate 9 Woodmeal 10 Nitroglycerin 6 Nitroglycerin 10 Barium sulfate 7 Sodium chloride 20 Dextrin 8 Magnesium carbonate 1 [6> Ammonium nitrate 75 [5> Ammonium nitrate 88 Aluminum powder 25 Charcoal powder 12 [8> Ammonium nitrate 64 [7> Ammonium nitrate 94 TNT 15 Potassium nitrate 2 Sodium chloride 21 Charcoal powder 4 [10> Ammonium nitrate 35 [9> Ammonium nitrate 60 Potassium nitrate 33 Woodmeal 10 TNT 15 Nitroglycerin 10 Ammonium chloride 20 Sodium chloride 20 The formulas listed above are for high explosives. They are not for cherry bombs or Roman candles. The ingredients that make up these formulas have several functions: The first is the explosive agent itself, the second is the stabilizing agent, and third is a texturizer (paraffin). Below are listed the most important and common ingredients that are used to form an explosive compound, and a description of their purpose and function. [Ammonium Nitrate]: An extremely unstable, white explosive, usually in crystalline form. [Aluminum]: A silver metallic powder, when in pyro grade, it is a major ingredient in many ammonal explosive compounds. [Ammonium Oxalate]: A very valuable stabilizing agent, especially for nitro. [Barium Nitrate]: Nitrated barium, in white crystalline powdered form. [Charcoal Powder]: A fine black powder, which is extremely absorbent, and used extensively in pyrotechnics. [Guncotton]: Nitrated cellulose (sawdust) is fairly stable, but usually used with other ingredients rather than alone. It is about 13-14% nitrogen. [Naphthalene]: This is a sensitizing agent that is normally in a white crystalline form. [Paraffin]: This is a primary ingredient in plastique, and acts as a texturizer. [Potassium Nitrate]: An explosive compound in itself, which is stable. It is usually in a white crystalline form. [Potassium Perchloride]: A white powder used as an igniting agent in high explosives. It is an extremely common ingredient in low explosives. [Resin]: A gummy substance, which is flammable, and used in high explosives as an igniting agent. [Sodium Carbonate]: This white crystalline powder acts to neutralize acid, which may make the explosive more unstable than it normally is. [Sodium Chloride]: This is nothing more than ordinary table salt, and is used as a cooling agent in many high explosives. [Sodium Nitrate]: A stable explosive compound which has the advantage of being water-absorbent. [Sodium Sulfate]: A stabilizing powder, which is water-resistant. [Starch]: This can be either potato or corn starch, and acts as an absorbent in many explosive compounds. [Sulfur]: A yellow crystalline powder, which should be used in flour form only. [Vaseline]: A clear petroleum jelly used in a similar manner as paraffin, as a plasticizer, for many forms of exploding gelatins and plastic explosives. [ ] * Chlorox/Draino Bomb * Materials: -2 Jars with metal lids (Baby food) -1 Bottle chlorox bleach -1 Bottle of liquid draino -1 Roll of electrical tape Fill one of these jars with chlorox and the other with liquid draino. Screw the lids on both jars and seal them tightly with electrical tape. Tape both jars together and to ignite this bomb just throw upon a hard surface. The bottles will break and an explosion will occur. The larger the bottles (Jars) the larger the effect of the bomb. [ ] * Soda Bomb/Poison Gas (2X Chlorine Gas Bomb) * Materials: -1 Box granulated pool chlorine -1 Bag of sugar -1 Bucket of water -1 Two-liter soda bottle or other glass bottle -1 Small glass jar with metal lid Make a mixture of the following: 50% Chlorine, 50% Sugar Put it in the bottle. Then fill the glass jar with water and put it in the soda bottle. Throw this bomb at a hard surface, it'll create a explosion and very harmful fumes. [ ] * Incendiary Bomb * First get a 16-Ounce returnable bottle, a tube of caulking, and a considerable amount of gun powder. Pour the calking into an old pot and warm it over a nice hot stove until it is plasma-like and gooey. Now, take an old strip of cloth about 10" long X 3/4" wide. Dip it in the caulking so that it is completely covered with the stuff. Place the strip in the bottle so as a little bit sticks out the top. Pout in roughly 3/4 cup of gun powder into the bottom. Fill the rest of the bottle up with the caulking, let dry, light the cloth. When the gun powder explodes, it will spew out chards of glass and flaming strands of caulking (similar to napalm) [ ] * Coin Changer Fraud * Have you ever seen one of those really big changer machines in airports, laudromats or arcades that dispense change when you put in your 1 or 5 dollar bill? 1. Find the type of change machine that you slide in your bill length wise, not the type where you put the bill in a tray then slide the tray in!!! 2. After finding the right machine get a $1 or $5 bill. Start crumpling it up into a ball. Then smooth out the bill, now it should have a very wrinkly surface. 3. Now the hard part. You must tear a notch in the bill on the left side about 1/2 inch below the little 1 dollar symbol (see figure) 4. If you have done all of this right then take the bill and go out to the machine. Put the bill in the machine and wait. What should happen is: When you put your bill in, the machine thinks everything is fine. Where it gets to the part of the bill with the notch cut out, the machine will reject the bill and (if you have done it right) give you the change at the same time!!! So, you end up and get the bill back plus the change!! It might take a little practice, but once you get the hang of it, you can become rich!!! ----------------------------------- ! ! ! (1) (1) ! ! --------- ! ! ! ' ' ! ! ! ! --- ! ! ! (1) [] --------- (1) ! ! !! -Washington- ! ------[ ]---------------------- ^^-----Make notch here. About 1/2 Down from (1) or try 3.5 cm. [ ] * Tennis Ball Bomb * As we know, tennis is a popular sport around the world. In tennis you use these hollow green balls known as tennis balls. What people do not know is that these wonderful little balls can be used for other things. They can be used as a handy little explosive or noise maker. You will need the following. 1. A tennis ball (new if possible) 2. A knife 3. A box of matches (the type that will strike on anything 4. Epoxy Glue and Strong tape First you take a knife and cut a small round hole on the tennis ball. Next you will cut off the match heads of each match and drop them into the hole until the tennis ball is full of them. Make sure you do not drop the tennis ball, because it will not be too fun to stay in the hospital. Apply epoxy glue to the hole, then tape it up very well, so that it is air tight. Make a few of these and one day when some geek is walking down the street or when you want to get a big bang or attention, throw the ball. It is not to fun to be where the ball lands. To make the explosion more powerful, you can use gun powder mix. Have fun!!! [ ] * Pop Machine Fraud * Here is a way to rip off the coke machines you see out side of stores and other places! ok first on all vending machines there are always those rouund almost unpickable locks when no one is looking take a peice of air hardening clayy (make sure it is only air hardening!) and press it into the lock real good! then remove the clay carefully and put it somewhere to dry! make sure the clay is TOTALY dry then go back in a day or so and you will have a key to fit that lock put the key in and push and turn and presto the machine will open allowing you to take all the money! a good machine will get you between 2100 and 300 dollars depending when it was last checked by the company. and best of all if someone sees you just put the key on the ground and step on it and its powder! and then you cant be busted because the evidence is blown away! so that's it. [ ] * Car Destruction * Take an empty tyenol bottle and fill it with liquid draino. Make sure the lid is sealed good, so it doesn't leak out any liquid draino. Then slip the bottle into the persons gas tank. What happens is the draino eats through the bottle and hits the gas, a chemical reaction take place then Kaboom!!! [ ] * making M-80 and M-100s * FLASH POWDER Flash powder is a chemical mixture that burns so fast that it appears to burn instantly, producing a bright flash of light. Flash powder will produce an extremely loud explosion in amounts larger than 4 ounces even when it is not contained Very small amounts of flash powder will produce a very loud explosion when contained, even in a container made of a few layers of paper. Flash powder is usually made from a very fine powdered metal that will burn and an oxidizer. Powdered aluminum is used the most because it is cheaper. Powdered magnesium and zinc will also work. The oxidizer can be Barium Nitrate, Ammonium Perchlorate, Barium Peroxide, Strontium Nitrate, Potassium Chlorate, Potassium Perchlorate, Sodium Chlorate, Potassium Permanganate, others, and any combination of these. All the Chlorate are friction and impact sensitive, and also the Permanganate. Potassium Perchlorate is the least sensitive of the Chlorates. All the chemicals should be crushed into a very fine powder, about 400 Mesh or smaller. 400 Mesh is about like kitchen type flour. Black German Aluminum is a brand name for aluminum powder. It has a partical size of 600 Mesh for 98% of the aluminum material. The other 2% of the material is larger than 600 Mesh. There are other aluminum powders made by other companies that are equal to or better than Black German Aluminum. Aluminum Pyro Powder is also a brand name. The partical size is (98%-400) or 98% of the material is smaller than 400 Mesh. The other 2% is larger than 400 Mesh. FLASH POWDER FORMULAS 1. This formula is one of the best. It produces a very, very, extremely loud explosion. Easy to ignite with a fuse. It is not moisture absorbent. Not very sensitive to impact or friction. Sodium Chlorate or Potassium Chlorate can be used instead of Potassium Perchlorate but it then becomes very sensitive to friction and impact. 4 ounces of this mixture will produce an explosion equal to one stick of dynamite! Potassium Perchlorate 2 oz. Aluminum Powder 600 Mesh 1 oz. 2. This formula produces and extremely loud explosion, almost as good as formula #1. This is what most firecrackers, M-80's and other fireworks are made with. Potassium Perchlorate 2 oz. Aluminum Powder 400 Mesh 1 oz. 3. This formula is equal to formula #2 It is not sensitive to friction or impact Barium Peroxide 9 oz. 50%/50% Magnesium aluminum powder 200 Mesh 1 oz. 4. This formula works as good as formula #2 but it produces a very bright flash. This formula is what use to be used for the photo flash for the old box type cameras about 100 years ago Barium Nitrate 3 oz. Potassium Perchlorate 3 oz. Aluminum Powder 400 Mesh 4 oz. 5. This formula works very good. It is not very impact or friction Sensitive. It produces a very, very loud explosion. Potassium Perchlorate contains 46.1914% oxygen. Half as powerful as #2. Potassium Perchlorate 2 oz. Sulfur 1 oz. Aluminum Powder 400 Mesh 1 oz. 6. This formula works as good as #5 but it has a disadvantage of being moisture absorbent and it is very impact and friction sensitive. Sodium Chlorate contains 45.0937% oxygen. Produces a very, very loud explosion. Equal to #5. Sodium Chlorate 2 oz. Sulfur 1 oz. Aluminum Powder 400 Mesh 1 oz. 7. This formula is very dangerous because it is very sensitive to friction and impact and could explode during the construction of any explosive device. Potassium Chlorate contains 39.1664% oxygen. This formula produces and explosion almost equal to #5 or #6. Used in the manufacture of toy cap pistol caps. Potassium Chlorate 2 oz. Sulfur 1 oz. Aluminum Powder 1 oz. 8. This formula is very, very very sensitive to impact, friction and static electricity, even more sensitive than #7. Extremely dangerous! Will ignite even when wet. Potassium Chlorate 6.7 oz. Red Phosphorus 2.7 oz. Sulfur 0.3 oz. Calcium Carbonate 0.3 oz. 9. This formula has slightly less explosive power than #7. It is slightly friction and impact sensitive. Potassium Permanganate contains 40.4961% oxygen. This formula will ignite itself if it gets wet. Very loud explosion. Potassium Permanganate 2 oz. Sulfur 1 oz. Aluminum Powder 1 oz. 10. This formula produces a very small explosion when ignited in a paper tube. A much louder explosion is produced when it is ignited in a very strong container. It is impact and friction sensitive. Potassium Chlorate 7.5 oz. Charcoal dust 1.5 oz. Sulfur 1.0 oz. 11. No information is available about this formula. Potassium Chlorate 6 oz. Antimony Sulfide 3 oz. Sulfur 1 oz. 12. This formula is a little louder than formula #10. Impact and friction sensitive. Produces a small explosion in a paper container. Sodium Chlorate 7.5 oz. Charcoal dust 1.5 oz. Sulfur 1.0 oz. 13. No information is available about this formula. Potassium Chlorate 7.5 oz. Gallic acid 2.2 oz. Red gum 0.3 oz. !CAUTION! The mixture of any chlorate with phosphorus or sulfur is extremely sensitive to friction and percussion and explodes with great violence. Chlorate explosives must not be stored together with ammonium nitrate explosives, since ammonium chlorate which is formed when these two substances are brought in contact, explodes. When mixing chlorate explosives, crush all of the chemicals separately. Sift the oxidizer through a piece of screen wire to break up the material into small pieces. Then sift the other chemicals also if they need it. Mix all of the flash powder chemicals together and mix well by sifting them through a piece of screen wire or by shaking them in a ZIP LOCK bag. This mixture is very sensitive to friction, impact, heat, spark, static electricity 4 ounces of flash powder has the same explosive power as one stick of dynamite. One gross of M-80 firecrackers is equal to 3 sticks of dynamite. 8 ounces of flash powder will make 100 M-80 type firecrackers if each M-80 contains 1/2 teaspoon of flash powder. M-80's with 1/4 teaspoon of flash powder produces an explosion that sounds almost exactly the same as M-80's with 1/2 teaspoon of flash powder, but it has less destructive power. 24 ounces of flash powder will make 100 M-100 type firecrackers. (And these are awsome!) Quick Conversions: 3 teaspons = 1 tablespoon 4 tablespoons = 1/4 cup 1/4 cup = 2 oz. M-80 & M-100 CONSTRUCTION ------------------------- 1. PLUG ONE END OF THE PAPER TUBE. Run a small amount of Elmer's glue around the side of an end plug or the inside edge of the paper tube. Insert the end plug, convex side first, into the paper tube. Push it in until the back edge of the plug is flush with the edge of the paper tube. 2. FUSE THE PAPER TUBE. Using a 1/8 inch drill bit, an ice pick or a sharp nail, punch a hole through one side of the paper tube in the middle. NEVER puncture a case that contains flash powder. The paper tube should always be fused before the flash powder is added. Cut the fuse to 1 1/2 inches in length and insert it into the hole at least halfway across the inside diameter of the paper tube. Run a small amount of Elmer's glue around the fuse and let it dry. 3. MIXING THE FLASH POWDER Extreme caution should be used when mixing flash powder. Flash powder is extremely dangerous and explodes with great force. Avoid all sources of friction, impact, flame, sparks and static electricity. 4. FILL THE PAPER TUBES Stand the paper tubes on end, open end up. Using a small funnel and a measuring spoon 1/2 teaspoon, fill the paper tubes 1/2 to 2/3 full. Do not fill the tubes completely full or pack in the flash powder. By leaving an air space there is room for the flash powder to expand when ignited which will produce a much louder explosion. 5. INSERT THE FINAL END PLUG Plug the open end in the same way that you plugged the first end. MATERIALS NEEDED FOR ONE M-80 1. One paper tube, 1/2 inch inside diameter, 1/16 inch wall thickness, 1 1/2 inches long. 2. Two paper end plugs 1/2 inch outside diameter, 1/16 inch paper thickness. 3. One 3/32 diameter water proof fuse about 1 1/2 inches long. 4. 1/2 teaspoon of flash powder. 5. 10 drops of Elmer's glue. __ ___________ __ end | o | end plug __| ___________ |__ plug fuse ^ hole | ______|_____ |M80 or M100 | |____________| MATERIALS NEED FOR ONE M-100 ---------------------------- 1. One paper tube, 5/8 inch inside diameter, 1 3/4 inch long 2. Two paper end plugs 5/8 inch outside diameter. 3. One water proof fuse about 1 1/2 inches long. 4. 1 1/2 teaspoons of flash powder. 5. 10 drops of Elmer's glue CHEMICALS --------- Most of the chemicals you need are sold at K-mart, hardware stores, drug stores, lumber yards, plumbing supply, Wall-mart, cement company and many other stores. Sodium Chlorate. O2 solid oxygen pellets are used in small work shop torches. Potassium Nitrate. Sold by most drug stores in 4 ounce bottles. Also sold by farmers co-op supply stores. Sulfur. Sold by farmers co-op, drug stores and lawn and garden centers. Aluminum Powder. Sold by paint stores and auto parts stores. Aluminum powder can be found in radiator stop leak. Sodium Nitrate. Sold by drug stores and meat packing plants. Antimony Sulfide. Is sold by most plumbing supply stores. Potassium Permanganate. It is used for water treatment. Check your phone book for water treatment equipment and supplies. Ammonium Nitrate. Can be bought from any farmers co-op or lawn and garden center. Red Phosphorus. The white tip on wooden kitchen matches contains red phosphorus Check your phone book yellow pages for industrial chemical supplies, they will usually have most of these chemicals. When you call, tell them you are with a beginning rock band and want it for some special effects on stage. They will fall for that every time... Now you probably wonder where you can get the paper tubes and end caps. Ok just write: FULL AUTO CO. INC. P.O. Box 1881 Murfreesboro, TN. 37133 And ask for a catalog. M-80 size tubes are 100-$5. End plugs are 200-$3.5 M-100 size tubes are 100-$9. End plugs are 200-$5. You must have an order form to order this. They also sell all the chemicals you need to make flash powder. You must be over 21 or at least sign the order that says that you are 21. There is no way that they can find out. I DO NOT suggest that you buy their water proof fuse because it sucks! Go to a gun shop in your area and ask for cannon fuse. It's probably around 35 to 40 cents a foot and is water proof and MUCH better quality. You do have to be 16 or 18 to buy it. [ ] *TWENTY WAYS TO DISRUPT SCHOOL ASSEMBLIES* Basically anti-social, anti-establishment? Hate school? Who doesn't! Here's 20 things to screw up those JOCK-O-RAMA pep rallies and various other senseless assemblies in your fascist school...just TRY to have fun.. 1. When the cheerleaders start bouncing (literally) around trying to get all the wretched students to do their demonic, assinine chants (Beat 'em up beat 'em up, rah rah rah! Snap those spinal cords, ha ha ha!" , you should get everyone to chant something like "The New Discipline Management Plan SUCKS - The New Discipline Management Plan SUCKS!" etc. 2. When the cheerleaders yell, "Are you ready!??"--You yell reeeal loud, "NO!" 3. After their cheers yell stuff like, "Violence Rulez! Guns R cool! And we've got guns, in our school!" 4. Yell cheerleader, twirlers, football players names when they are introduced or just simply to embarrass them... 5. Stand up and ask in a loud voice for one of the cheerleaders to marry you. 6. Say in a loud voice, "I gotta go to the bathroom!" then walk down in the middle of the pep rally and leave. If they try to stop you, just start hoping up and down like you can't hold it...They'll let ya go...when they say, "ok, you can go!", run as fast as you can to a remote bathroom(i.e.-home) where they can't follow you... 7. When a twirler drops her baton or a cheerleader messes up, laugh as loud as you can...i mean REALLY LAUGH HARD! 8. If like the principle comes up behind you and sits, turn around and say, "Ok, Mr. So-n-So, on the count of three yell, Down with Mr. So-n-So (his name in both places) 9. Get those air horns and rig it up to where when someone sits down, it'll go off....everone will look around dumbfounded to see who's doing it... They'll never know... 10. Water Balloons is a definate possibly, but i don't suggest it...yesterday at ours, i was playing with this purple balloon like a beachball...ya know, bouncing it between people and 'accidently' letting it get away from you where hopefully someone will pop it...or you could just pop a few yourself 11. If you're terribly brave or stupid you can stand up and yell, "East Lubbock/Wherever Rulez!" or "Beaners suck!" 12. The airhead cheerleaders ask you to yell, right? Yell at all times... even when it's supposed to be semi-quiet... 13. Make a fire. 14. Spray the cheerleaders pom-poms with that dog training stuff or fart spray 15. If you're in the band, play the music that you think is more suiting for a pep rally... 16. Scream anti-scholastic things during the school song 17. DO a complete reversal and dance to the fight song...(this one is good if you are sitting near the front or the middle)...just stand up and dance and sing the words if ya know 'em! 18. (this one is unlikely for some reason...) Write your name or the opposing teams name on the gym/football field with like kerosine and light'er up! 19. Get snap -n- pops and sit at the top and throw 'em at everone.(heh) 20. Lock 'em up! That's right! Get chains and lock all doors to the gym... ..then ya got 2000 angry students with only 15 teachers..I dunno who would want out worse, the students or the teachers...heh. (I tried alot of these for the first pep rally of the season at my stupid private school...I didn't get to try the things that required planning (burning the school down, lock ups, air horn, ect) but I did do all of the yells and dancing and proposing marriage, chanting, singing, ect.) Thanks to myself for writing this file, and the corrupt administrators for giving me something to write about... [ ] * How to have fun at school * Your first day of school you should bring the following items, to insure a prosperous school year: 1) Fountain pen (and extra ink refills) 2) 3 tubes of Super Glue (Krazy Glue) 3) Pennies (about $1.00 worth) 4) Baloons (small sized for convieniance) 5) Mirror (small hand held) 6) Liquid soap 7) Lighter, (matches as alternate) 8) Firecrackers (ladyfingers are great) 9) Screwdrivers and other tools (small) 10) Small squeezable bottles (like nasal de-congestant type) 11) Wire (10-20 ft) 12) Tape recorder mic. (batter operated pref.) 13) Ziplock baggies 14) Half of an orange 15) Ligth bulb (75 watts and over are great) This will do for now... Some of the cool things to do are, take the pennies and glue them to the cafeteria tables, (and watch the custodians try to get 'em off). (this also looks good with silver dollars glued to the fire alarm (so it goes off when the custodian attempts to remove the coin) and to a door someplace.... (principals preferably)) Another thing to do with a coin is, heat it up over a bunson burner (in chem) and just as the bell rings, toss the coin into the hall, I will guarantee you will know when the coin is picked up... While your using the bunson burner, fill your little squeeze bottle with gas, then cap it tight and put it in your pocket... later, take a firecracker, and glue it to the bottle, use a cigarette as a fuse extension, then put it in the bathroom, and get to class fast... (gas and glue make a nice flame)... While your in the bathroom, place a light bulb over the door, and when the superintendant goes to see what the explosion was, he gets a nice little surprise... Now for the wire, if you can access a room near your locker, when no one is in the room, take off the speaker cover on the pa system, and hook 2 wires from it, to your mic. ( then into your locker) This is good for getting your friends out of classes... Just ask for them... (use your tools for that one, and try to be neat about it)... Now for your mirror, you can use this for getting your, uh... "Friends" locker combanation.... after you get that, take that little baggie you got, and put the orange in it... let it sit for a week or four, then open the baggie, and place it in your friends locker... I can guarentee he/she will love it... Another thing that is fun to do, is, Take a penny, and glue it over the key hole on your friends gym locker, just after he goes out, thus he has to truck around all day in his gym stuff, (unless you rent him your screwdriver to pry the penny off) Ballons are fun to play with in chem lab, fill them with the gas that you get out of the taps on the lab desks, then tie up the baloon tight, and drop it out the window to the burnouts below, you know, the ones that are always smoking, they love to pop baloons with lit cigaretts.... get the picture? Good... Those fountain pens are cool, because if you make a slight jerking motion with your hand, ink squirts all over the room, (or person, what ever your aiming at) It is a good idea not to let the teachers know you have one of those, it makes it too easy to find out who did it when theres ink all over the principals face... (or on the floors, walls, and ceilings...) Liquid soap is great for use in crowded hallways, it turns everybody into a ice skating star, (works especially well when people come in from the rain)... If your school is anything like the one I goto, people never flush the toiletts, A little liquid soap in here makes for a nice surprise, I mean, what happens when the soap is not flushed out of the toilett, and the suds are'nt flushed out either? The janitors have a really good time trying to figure out that one... (glue a quarter in one of the urinals, always ane)... Turn off the water under the sinks too... Getting back to the soap, it is also good on the hand railings in hallways and on steps, If you mix perfume with it, some poor grub has to have that stench on him all day.... I shall start off with some of the cool aspects of a school cafeteria. As most of you know, this is not a very nice place, or atleast it's not very nice in my school., you have to get out there and catch the food before it gets away... but in any case... 1) School Cafeterias: In this ever growing world of terrorism, and practical jokes, you should learn the basic methods and uses of ketchup. This red stuff that they use to cover the mold on the french-fries, makes a nice stain on peoples clothing. So... take a few packets of ketchup, and during phys. Ed. you take the pack and put little holes in it, then put it in someones back pocket, (preferably white pants), do this while they are out in the gym, and you are alone in the locker room... It's a gas when they get up after pulling their pants on and there 'Bleeding...'... 2) Marbles are very cool... especially glass ones and steel ones, what you do is, get into your 'Friends' locker and (if he/she has a shelf) take a book and brace it up at an angle, and leave them alot of marbles to play with... so when they open their locker, they should have no problem watching them spill all over the floor... then they get little questions like 'Hey man, did you loose all your marbles?' and 'Is this a throw back to your child hood?'. This is even better when they have to go out in the middle of a class period and when all the marbles fall out he has teachers all over him asking 'What do you think your doing?' and the ever popular 'Wheres your pass?'... 3) You can improve on the marbles scheme by using water/perfume filled baloons or plastic baggies. 'Cause, howd you like to go around smelling like a flower all day long (if your a boy), if your a girl, then your a wet flower... your 'Friend' walks down the hallway 'Squish. Squish Squish' from all the water in their sneakers... 4) Do any of your parents have old contact lens fluid bottles? (small) If so then your in luck... if you fill these with water and walk down a crowded hall you can have alot of fun... Spray your victem so it looks like he/she took a leak in thier pants... in a crowded hall-way, the'll never notice till someone says.. 'Hey, Professor Leaky... Turn off the faucets...'... If you want to be even meaner, then you can take the bottle and fill it with the juices from a rotten egg.. now its' one thing to piss in your pants, but if you go around smelling like rotten eggs all day, whew... I can almost guarntee a suspension or a free trip home... (very embarrasing)... 5) During your free period, goto a pay phone and call the front office, and have your victim paged to the front office... tell the front office that you are the boy/girls father and your coming to pick them up for an emergency doctors appointment... and to go and get his/her books... then they sit in the front office for 1/2 an hour, (and miss class).. then they say ' Hey, did you and some of your friends pull this stunt so you wouldnt have to goto class?!?!.. Goto the principals office NOW!' Good 'eh? 6) Heres some fun to have at the library... goto the magazine rack and replace the Sports Ill. and the other widely read magazines with Playboy and some of the others... (rip off the Sports. Ill. cover and put Playboy inside) You should see the expressions on the girls faces when they open that sucker up... (or on the teachers faces)... 7) Hide a cheap radio ($3.00 things that you get from radio shack (am)) and set it to blast when the locker is opend. (set it on some queer station) To set the wiring up.. Open up the radio and disconnect one of the wires going to the switch, turn the switch on. Now take the wire you just disconnected and run it to another switch, and a wire from the other end of that switch to the old switch... now tape the switch into the locker in a way that whenever the locker is opend, the switch will go on, and whenever the door closes, the switch will go off... this is embarrasing, especially when you cant find the radio to turn it off... Have you ever noticed that the water fountains in schools have two holes in them (for the water to come out of)... I have no idea why they are there... (maybe some one put them there for us to put to some GOOD use), take some chewing gum and plug up the bottom hole, this is great because that forces the water out of the top hole at HIGH PRESSURE thus getting alot of people wet (espoecially the person getting the drink)... to give you an estimate of how much power there is, in our school, the auto shop ceiling is about 20 ft up, and when the gum is in place the water hits the ceiling (if it wasnt there it would continue another 5 to 10 feet...) You people have all seen those little toy pellet guns that shoot the little yellow plastic BB's... well, these are good in the hallways between classes (or out the windows at the people that are cutting classes) just be carefull not to hit people in the eyes... (un-less it is intentional) I dont know if this is standard in all schools (I suppose this will pertain to some of you), you may have these long 'Airconditioner/Heaters' (they never work) BUT... in our school these heaps of junk have a small opening for a 5/32 Allen key, these are usefull for turning off the cold air in the winter and turning it on in the warmer months...) Itching powder is fun... (especialy if theres someone in front of you in a class or two that you dont like..) just dump a little of this down there back. WHAT? You dont have any... well, as I said before, I work in a hardware store and I can tell you for a FACT that the fiberglass in isulation itches ALL DAY! all you have to do is get some insulation and shake it out onto a peice of newspaper (tear it up a little if you have to) and soon you will have a small pile of shards of fiberglass.. put it into a small baggie or film container, and keep it in class with you... NOTE: Use gloves when you do this... this WILL drive you insane by the end of the day if you get any into your hands... Do you have any dead animals laying around? A dead rat or some animal you have scraped up off the road? If not you should have one... you take them into the bathrooms at school and lift off the top (exposing the flush mechanism) and you insert the animal into there... if it's warm, and moist then this animal will start to rot, and smell extreamly bad... you may get lucky (if they cant find it) you MAY even get a day off from school while they look for it... Hey, if your school has a computer classroom that has a small multi-plexer (so the teacher can see what you are doing)... well.. have some fun.. change the cables around so the teacher does not know who she is looking at (or you can make your terminal the master terminal. *Bathroom Bombs* Materials: A birthday or other small candle 1 M-80 Silly Putty Scrape off the bottom of the candle so that a half inch wick is on the bottom. Tie the end of the wick to the fuse of the M-80. Place a small ammount of silly putty on one side of the candle, and a small ammount on one side of the M-80. Use as little as possible, just enough to make it stick! Now the hard part, you need to lean over and stick the candle and the M-80 to the underside of the toilet. Be careful and make sure no one is going to dunk you. Light the candle and get out of the bathroom as calmly as possible. You have anywhere from thirty seconds to one minute so you have time to wash your hands and act normal. Make sure that you are nowhere NEAR the bathroom because the teachers will interogate anyone in the vicinity of the area. Now you can have a BLAST at school! (Litterally) *The Cigarette Flash* Materials: Filterless Cigarette Lighter Small Viel of Thinner Matchbook This on is FUN! Splash the thinner all over the toilet paper in the stall. Open the matchbook and place the cigarette in the match book so that the matchbook holds the cigarette in place firmly. Place the combination matchbook/cigarette under the toilet paper any way you can fit it in there. Now the fun part. Light the cigarette and get out of the stall calmly. With this you have between two and five minutes (2-5) so you have plenty of time to act normal and leave the bathroom at a steady pace!! /\ /CC\ / \\ <---- Place the cigarette between the top and the matches / \\ ___________ | TTTTTTT | | TTTTTTT | <---- Put the matchbook/cigarette under the thinner soaked | Match | toilet paper. ----------- Now have FUN! And be smart....don't spill the thinner all over yourself unless you want to burn in hell (Pun)!! Hello! And welcome to...ummm...issue #6 of Firecracker FUN! In this issue we will discuss the FLAMER which is the final issue of mild firecracker fun. The next 5-8 issues will be called: "Flaming GLORY!" and will hols some more potent things OTHER THAN firecrackers and oil! Sooo....I hope that you enjoyed this series and I REALLY hope that you look forward to all my future series and issues! Materials: 1/4 gallon gasoline 1/4 gallon oil 6 inch candle LOTS of toilet paper!!! This one is scary....and FUN! At home mix the 1/4 gallon of gasoline with the 1/4 gallon of oil. Place the mixture in a gallon bag that is easy to conceal. At school put the toilet paper in the toilet until it reaches the level of the water. Take the candle and place it firmly into the toilet paper so that it will stay upright for about 5 minutes. After all that slowly pour the mixture gas/oil into the toilet. Light the candle and you will have 10-15 minutes to get out. This one is pretty scary if you are in the bathroom at the time! There is NO noise but if you are anywhere NEAR the stall you will see a LARGE flame leap up into the air!! KEWL! [ ] * Fun with Fireworks * There are MANY ways to have fun with firecrackers....but the best are when you can actually use them. My favorite ways are the Tube, the rocket, and the big bang. The tube us a relatively normal arrangement...just that all the bottle rockets should go off at the same time. But what you do is take three or four bottle rockets (the kind with the plastic caps) and fill the caps with some type of contact explosive. Then tape them all together with duct or electric tape. Then tie all the fuses together and place into a metal tube. Light fuse and have fun....try not to blow off your hand or other body part! By the way....you do not really need to fill the cap with an explosive....but it add's to the BANG!! ---------000000> <---- Fill cap with contact explosive ---------00XX00> ---------00XX00> <---- Tape all together! ---------00XX00> ---------00XX00> ---------00XX00> <---- Tie all fuses together ---------00XX00> Place them in a pipe and have fun *The Rocket* Materials: A 2 or 3 Stage Rocket Superglue Tape Shredded Paper M-80 firecracker All other equipment for launching Any 2 or 3 stage rocket will work fine. You must be willing to to loose a rocket so I suggest not painting, because it would be just a waste of time and money. You can get a good 3 stage rocket for under $30 and the M-80's you can buy at almost any firecracker store for between $.80 - $1.00!! First put the rocket together. Then place the boosters in the bottom stage(s). In the uppermost stage glue the M-80 into place with the fuse pointing downward. Place the end of the fuse onto the upper part of the adjoining booster and tape it into place with a small piece of tape. Fill the paracute area sparcely with shredded paper. Wait until the glue holding the M-80 dries and then finish putting the rocket together. Now you are ready to go! But be smart...don't launch the rocket in someone's face or into a building unless you are willing to take responsibility for it! And try not to kill yourself in the process! What is supposed to happen is as you launch the rocket the first stage's booster burns with an extremely high intensty and heat. As the booster nears the to it ignites a flameable substance that pushes upward igniting the booster above it and ejecting it from the rest of the rocket. When the substance shoots upward into the M-80 it will ignite the fuse or it will detonate the M-80 immediatly (I am not sure which). Then as the M-80 detonates it will blow the cap of the rocket off ejecting anything in the paracute chamber. BBBBOOOOOOO> <---- Place booster in the bottom stage(s) BBBBM-80OOO> <---- Glue M-80 in stage above booster and tape fuse BBBBM-80PPP> <---- Put shredded paper in paracute chamber *Big BANG* Materials: 10-15 M-80's Long fuse...2 feet Duct or Electric Tape LUCK!!! Ok. Now. Put all the M-80's into a circle packed as tightly together as possible. Next put two or even three layers of tape arround the group of M-80's. Connect all the fuses together pointing inward and tie (If you tape it use as little tape as possible) it to the long piece of fuse. Then place upright or if you want to have fun, bury it a foot underground (if you do this you must have a straw or a pipe leading the fuse into the ground) and light the fuse. Now what you have here is like two or three sticks of dynamite, so get as far away as possible and hit the ground!! The explosion will be a HELL of a lot louder than a small stick of dynamite so cover your ears, don't be a hero and go deaf! [ ] *How To Make Low Explosives* There are many formulas for low explosives, which, although they do not have the power or impact of the high explosives, are generally safer to use and handle. It may seem at first that an explosive compound that has less power is a disadvantage, but this is not true. If a high-explosive charge were used to set off a bullet in a gun, the gun would probably explode in the user's face. Therefore, low explosives have a definite purpose and use, and are not interchangeable with high explosives. Although I stated above that, generally speaking, low explosives are more stable than high explosives, there are some low-explosive compounds that are as dangerous as high-explosive compounds, if not more so. Below is a chart of the most common low-explosive compounds and their stabilities and merit. [Potassium and sodium nitrate gunpowders]: These are without a doubt one of the safest low explosives to handle. They are especially good when packed into a tight container, and exploded under pressure. [Smokeless powder]: This type of low explosive is much like the one mentioned above, in the sense that it is extremely stable, but it is much more powerful. It also needs the element of pressure in the actual demolition work. [Potassium chlorates with sulfates]: Any mixture of potassium or sodium chlorates should be avoided at all costs, since most combinations will explode immediately, on formation, and those that don't are extremely unstable and likely to explode at any time. [Ammonium nitrate with chlorates]: This is similar to the compounds discussed above. These are extremely hazardous compounds, with very unstable ingredients. [Potassium chlorate and red phosphorus]: This combination is probably the most unstable and highly sensitive of all the low explosives. It will explode immediately and violently upon formation, even in the open when not under pressure. [Aluminum or megnesium with potassium chlorate or sodium peroxide]: Any of these combinations, although not quite as unstable as the one discussed above, is still too sensitive to experiment or play around with. [Barium chlorate with shellac gums]: Any mixture employing either barium or barium nitrate and carbon, or barium chlorate and any other substance, must be given great care. Barium nitrate and strontium nitrate mixed together form a very sensitive explosive, but the danger is greatly increased with the addition of charcoal, or carbon. [Barium and strontium nitrate with aluminum and potassium perchlorate]: This combination is relatively safe, as is the combination of barium nitrate and sulfur, potassium nitrate, and most other powdered metals. [Guanidine nitrate and a combustible]: This combination of guanidine nitrate and a combustible (i.e. powdered antimony) is one of the safest of all low explosives. [Potassium bichromate and potassium permanganate]: This is a very sensitive and unstable compound, and should be avoided, as it is really too hazardous to work with or handle. The low-explosive reaction is based on the principle of a combustible material combined with an oxidizing agent, in other words combining a material that burns easily with another material which in the chemical reaction will supply the necessary oxygen for the combustible's consumption. Listed below are the most common low-explosive combinations of oxidizing agents and combustibles. The first ingredient listed is the oxidizer, and the second is the combustible: [1> Nitric acid and resin. [2> Barium nitrate and magnesium. [3> Ammonium nitrate and powdered aluminum. [4> Barium peroxide and zinc dust. [5> Ammonium perchlorate and asphaltum. [6> Sodium chlorate and shellac gum. [7> Potassium nitrate and charcoal. [8> Sodium peroxide and flowers of sulfur. [9> Magnesium perchlorate and woodmeal. [10> Potassium perchlorate and cane sugar. [11> Sodium nitrate and sulfur flour. [12> Potassium bichromate and antimony sulfide. [13> Guanidine nitrate and powdered antimony. [14> Potassium chlorate and red phosphorus. [15> Potassium permanganate and powdered sugar. [16> Barium chlorate and parrafin wax. The combinations that are most unstable and sensitive are numbers 3, 5, 7, 13, 14, 15, and 16. These should be avoided. [ ] * How to Make Nitroglycerine As most people know, nitroglycerin is an extremely powerful explosive, used largely today by industry, and made in huge cement mixers that hold hundreds of gallons. It is not safe to make, and you shouldn't even think of making any unless you plan to use it (and don't make more than you need). I hope anyone who does make some has had atleast some chemistry and a little bit of brains. MATERIALS: 1) 70% concentrated nitric acid 2) 98% concentrated sulfuric acid 3) Glycerin 4) Baking soda 5) A *GOOD* thermometer and glassware (beakers, glass rod-stirring device, test tubes, eyedropper, whatever--must be all glass materials though. Acid eats everything else. Also, whatever you use to hold your solutions should have as thin a glass wall as possible--to diffuse heat faster.) 6) Very large ice-bath 7) Gloves, Goggles, etc. 8) Blue litmus paper 9) Kitchen sink OBTAINING MATERIALS: Nitric acid can be bought for about $19+ per gallon (it's cheaper to buy in this quantity). You need to be 21, but some chemical places don't care. Sulfuric acid can be bought the same way, at $14+ per gallon. Glycerine can be bought at any drug store. You won't need half as much glycerine as acid. The actual quantity and ratio varies--and is really unimportant in this recipe. The thermometer and glassware, etc., can be bought by anyone, but it's cheaper to 'borrow' from chem lab. If you have to buy, there should be a place near any college campus that sells the stuff. THE REACTION: H ! H-C-O-NO2 ! H-C-O-NO2 ===========> N2 + CO2 + O2 + H2O ! H-C-O-NO2 ! H PROCEDURE: 1) Mix by volume 3 parts sulfuric acid with 1 part nitric. Add the sulfuric to the nitric *NOT* vice versa (you never add water to acid because it splatters, and the nitric is 30% water). Your beaker/test tube should be contained in the ice bath because this solution is gets *HOT*--but isn't dangerous, yet. Stir a little bit, but don't put your face right over it (vapors). Wait til it cools to 0-5 degrees centigrade. You'll need to rig some kind of contraption, if you don't have the proper lab equipment, in order to keep the thermometer from touching the edge of the beaker/test tube--an accurate reading is *VERY* important. 2) Once the acids are cool enough you can start adding glycerin. While stirring constantly, use the eyedropper and add about 5 drops. If the heat doesn't rise, add 8 drops, and see what happens. Keep adding larger amounts until the temperature rises. Once it does, wait (don't stop stirring til at least 30 seconds after adding glycerine) for the temperature to drop back down to 0-5 degreees centigrade. DON'T EVER LET THE TEMPERATURE GET ABOVE 30 DEGREES CENTIGRADE--If you do, you lose. It might not blow up, but it will decompose, and you'll get nothing but garbage (the person who designed this recipe has had it go as high as 40 and not explode). To be safe, keep it below 20 degrees centigrade, and if it gets above that, dump the whole thing in the ice bath (there better be plenty of ice too, cause sulfur and water react, and you need plenty of ioce to keep that reaction cool). The nitroglycerin reaction is done when the glycerine you add no longer affects the temperature. 3) The nitroglycerin is slowly decomposing at this point, so you want to work fast here. The sulfuric has only been a catalyst for the reaction and needs to be washed out. Fill a container 10x the volume of your solution with ice water (again, ice is important cause sulfur and water react giving off enough heat to set off the nitro) and add your solution to it. Stir thoroughly (nitro and water don't mix). Let the nitro seperate (it will settle to the bottom) and pour off the water (acids and all) down the drain. Put your saolution under the tap and add more water. Stir again and let settle (settling can be helped by adding a little of ordinary dishsoap--like half a drop). Pour off again. Repeat the process 3 or 4 times. Make sure *ALL* the water is poured off (to get the last little bit, try dragging paper it stays blue, everything is fine. If it turns red, wash your solution a few more times. 4) After the solution is 'clean', wash with a baking soda solution (1 tsp./ quart of water). Follow the same steps outlined above, but only wash once. Pour your final solution into a glass bottle. Put in the fridge. CAUTIONS: First of all, store nitroglycerin in a cool place--like the fridge (or try the freezer. I don't know what the freezing point is). Label it so nobody accidently dumps it or drinks it. If you still live at home, then bury it in the fridge and disguise it so your parents wouldn't want to touch it or examine it. You don't really need to keep it that cold. You could fairly safely store it in your closet. Although if you live in an area with extreme heat (like Palm Springs) it might not be a good idea. Don't breath the vapors or swallow any--you'll get a short but incredible headache. If you touch some you'll get the headache of your life that will last up to 12 hours. DETONATION: What you wil probably want to try as soon as you make nitroglycerin is a simple little experiment to prove to yourself it works. Put *ONE* drop on a paper towell and strike with a hammer. Nitro, in this form, is not all that easy to blow up. Throwing a bottle of the stuff at a wall or dropping it off a five story building will do nothing more than break the bottle. The best way to detonate nitroglycerin is with a wax coated firecracker taped on the inside of your container. VARIATIONS: Putty- Mix your final solution with sawdust or diatomacious earth (which you can get at pool stores) to the consistency of silly putty. All this does is make your nitro easier to work with. Flash Paper- This is a little more difficult to make, a little safer, and maybe more fun. Instead of adding glycerin to your acids in step 2, use gun cotton (*REAL* cotton). You don't have to watch the temperature either. Just toss a bunch of cotton in and let it soak up your solution (don't be stupid though--add them slowly the first time). You don't need to be in as much of a rush either because it doesn't decompose as fast. You're nitrating the cotton, so let it sit a couple hours in the mix. Then pour off all the acid and wash in water (the same way you wash regular nitro), then after it's fairly clean you can pull out the cotton and wash by hand--*VERY WELL*. Let the cotton dry out, then put a piece in a jar with a very small amount of acitone (which you can purchase at any hardware store and is perfectly safe). The cotton will dissolve like cotton candy in water. Any cotton left in the jar should be taken out. Now let the acitone evaporate. There will be a small plastic-like film at the bottom of the jar. You can light this stuff like flash paper. Jelly- If you are brave you can dissolve the 'flash paper' in nitro and get a jelly like substance that is quite powerful and easier to work with. Use very little nitro and a lot of 'flash paper' (you'll have to experiment to find what works best for the consistency you want. [ ] * How to make Nitroglycerine #2 * 1. Fill a 75-milliliter beaker, to the 13-ml level, with fuming red Nitric Acid, of 98 percent concentration 2. Place beaker in an ice bath and allow to cool below room temperature 3. After it has cooled, add to it three times the amount of fuming Nitric Acid 39 milliliters of fuming Sulfuric Acid. When mixing any acids, always do it slowly and carefully to avoid splattering. 4. When the two are mixed, lower their temperature by adding more ice to the ice bath, to about 10 or 15 degrees centigrade. This can be measured by using a mercury-operated centigrade thermometer. 5. When the acid solution has cooled to the desired temperature, it is ready for the Glycerine. The Glycerine must be added in small amounts using a medicine dropper. Glycerine is added, slowly and carefully, until the entire surface is covered with it. 6. This is a dangerous point, since the nitration will take place soon as the Glycerine is added. The nitration will produce heat, so the solution must be kept below 30 degrees Celsius. If the beaker should go above 30 degrees, the beaker should be taken out of the ice bath and the solution should be carefully poured directly into the ice bath, since this will prevent an explosion 7. For about the first ten minutes of nitration, the mixture should be gently stirred. In a normal reaction, the Nitroglycerine will form a layer on top of the acid solution, while the Sulfuric Acid absorbs the excess water. 8. After the nitration has taken place and the Nitroglycerine has formed at the top of the solution, the entire beaker should be transferred very slowly and carefully to another beaker of water. When this is done the Nitroglycerine will settle to the bottom, so that most of the acid solution can be drained away. 9. After moving as much acid as possible without disturbing the Nitroglycerine, remove the Nitroglycerine with an eyedroper and place it in a bicarbonate of soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) solution. The Sodium Bicarbonate is an alkali and will nutralize much of the acid remaining. This process should be repeated as many times as necessary using blue litmus paper to check for the presence of acid. The remaining acid only makes the Nitroglycerine more unstable then it normally is. 10. The final step is to remove the Nitroglycerine from the bicarbonate this is done with an eyedropper, slowly and carefully. The usual test to see if nitration has been successful is to place one drop of the Nitroglycerine on a metal plate and ignite it. If it is true Nitroglycerine it will burn with a clear blue flame. Caution: Nitroglycerine is extremely sensitive to decomposition, heating, dropping, or jarring, and may explode even left undisturbed and cool. Know what you are doing before you make this stuff. [*Nitroglycerine #3*] Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not the most sensitive. Although it is possible to make it safely, it is difficult. Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured while trying to make the stuff. When Nobel's factories make it, many people were killed by the all-to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as soon as it is made, it is converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite. An idiot who attempts to make nitroglycerine would use the following procedure: MATERIAL EQUIPMENT distilled water eye-dropper table salt 100 ml beaker sodium bicarbonate 200-300 ml beakers (2) concentrated nitric ice bath container acid (13 ml) ( a plastic bucket serves well ) concentrated sulfuric centigrade thermometer acid (39 ml) blue litmus paper glycerine 1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml beakers. 2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and about a spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium bicarbonate dissolves. Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water so that some remains undissolved. 3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice, and adding table salt. This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the overall temperature. 4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker. Be sure that the beaker will not spill into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow into the beaker when more materials are added to it. Be sure to have a large enough ice bath container to add more ice. Bring the temperature of the acid down to about 20 degrees centigrade or less. 5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully add the 39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid. Mix the two acids together, and cool the mixed acids to 10 degrees centigrade. It is a good idea to start another ice bath to do this. 6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed acids, one drop at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture where the mixed acids and glycerine meet. DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30 DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE, RUN LIKE HELL!!! The glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and the temperature will immediately begin to rise. Add glycerine until there is a thin layer of glycerine on top of the mixed acids. It is always safest to make any explosive in small quantities. 7) adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the solution in the 100 ml beaker well below 30 degrees centigrade. Usually, the nitroglycerine will form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and the concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by the reaction. 8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is well below 30 degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of nitroglycerine and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in step 1. The nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and the water-acid solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as much of the acid-water solution as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerine. 9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-dropper, and place it into the beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate solution will eliminate much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine more stable, and less likely to explode for no reason, which it can do. Test the nitroglycerine with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat this step if necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2. 10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in a clean container in a safe place. The best place to store nitroglycerine is far away from anything living, or from anything of any value. Nitroglycerine can explode for no apparent reason, even if it is stored in a secure cool place. Nitroglyerine NITROGLYCERINE IS A *VERY* DANGEROUS SHOCK SENSITIVE EXPLOSIVE. IT IS USED IN MAKING DYNAMITE, AMONG OTHER THINGS. I AM NOT SURE AS TO THE PROPORTIONS AND AMOUNTS OF CHEMICALS TO BE USED, SO I SHALL USE ESTIMATES. MATERIALS- 70ML CONC. SULFURIC ACID 30ML CONC. NITRIC ACID 10 ML GLYCERINE ICE BATH 150ML BEAKER PUT THE 150ML BEAKER IN THE ICE BATH AND MAKE SURE THAT IT IS VERY COLD. SLO WLY ADD THE 70ML SULFURIC AND 30ML NITRIC ACIDS TO THE BEAKER, TRYING TO MAINTA IN A LOW TEMPERATURE. WHEN THE TEMPERATURE STARTS TO LEVEL OFF, ADD ABOUT 10ML GLYCERINE. IF IT TURNS BROWN OR LOOKS FUNNY, **RUN LIKE HELL**. WHEN NITROGLYCE RINE TURNS BROWN, THAT MEANS IT'S READY TO EXPLODE... IF IT STAYS CLEAR AND ALL WORKS WELL, KEEP THE TEMPERATURE AS LOW AS YOU CAN AND LET IT SIT FOR A FEW HO URS. YOU THEN SHOULD HAVE SOME NITROGLYCERINE, PROBABLY MIXED WITH NITRIC AND S ULFURIC ACIDS. WHEN YOU SET IT OFF, YOU MUST NOT BE NEARBY. NITROGLYCERINE CAN FILL 10,000 TIMES ITS ORIGINAL AREA WITH EXPANDING GASES. THIS MEANS THAT IF YO U HAVE 10ML'S OF NITROGLYCERINE IN THERE, IT WILL PRODUCE SOME 100,000ML'S OF G ASES. TO MAKE IT INTO DYNAMITE, THE NITROGLYCERINE MUST BE ABSORBED INTO SOMETHING LIKE WOOD PULP OR DIAMAECEOUS EARTH (SPELLED SOMETHING LIKE THAT). [ ] * Formulas For The Straight Dynamite Series * Probably one of the single greatest breakthroughs in explosives came by accident, when Nobel discovered a primitive form of dynamite. One of the primary ingredients of dynamite is nitroglycerine, which has great explosive power, although it has the disadvantage of being ultrasensitive to heat and shock. What dynamite does is to combine the high explosive power of nitro with a stabilizing agent, to render it powerful but safely usable. Nobel developed what is called today the straight dynamite series, which is nothing more than nitro and a stabilizing agent. The most common straight dynamite formulas follow (nitroglycerine will be referred to as NG): [1> NG 32 [10> NG 26 sodium nitrate 28 potassium nitrate 33 woodmeal 10 woodmeal 41 ammonium oxalate 29 guncotton 1 [11> NG 15 sodium nitrate 62.9 [2> NG 24 woodmeal 21.2 potassium nitrate 9 sodium carbonate .9 sodium nitrate 56 woodmeal 9 [12> NG 35 ammonium oxalate 2 sodium nitrate 37 woodmeal 27 [3> NG 35.5 ammonium oxalate 1 potassium nitrate 44.5 woodmeal 6 [13> NG 32 guncotton 2.5 potassium nitrate 27 vaseline 5.5 woodmeal 10 powdered charcoal 6 ammonium oxalate 30 guncotton 1 [4> NG 25 potassium nitrate 26 [14> NG 33 woodmeal 34 woodmeal 10.3 barium nitrate 5 ammonium oxalate 29 starch 10 guncotton .7 potassium perchloride 27 [5> NG 57 potassium nitrate 19 [15> NG 40 woodmeal 9 sodium nitrate 45 ammonium oxalate 12 woodmeal 15 guncotton 3 [16> NG 47 [6> NG 18 starch 50 sodium nitrate 70 guncotton 3 woodmeal 5.5 potassium chloride 4.5 [17> NG 30 chalk 2 sodium nitrate 22.3 woodmeal 40.5 [7> NG 26 potassium chloride 7.2 woodmeal 40 barium nitrate 32 [18> NG 50 sodium carbonate 2 sodium nitrate 32.6 woodmeal 17 [8> NG 44 ammonium oxalate .4 woodmeal 12 anhydrous sodium sulfate 44 [19> NG 23 potassium nitrate 27.5 [9> NG 24 woodmeal 37 potassium nitrate 32.5 ammonium oxalate 8 woodmeal 33.5 barium nitrate 4 ammonium oxalate 10 calcium carbonate .5 The figures given in the right column are percentage parts, adding up to a sum of 100%. Percentage parts are always based on a weight ratio rather than volume. When preparing any high-explosive formulas, be sure you know what you are doing. Have the correct equipment, and the correct chemicals. Many of these chemicals are sold under brand names, which are more familiar than their chemical names, but, before assuming anything, read the ingredients, and take nothing for granted. These formulas listed above are for straight dynamite. Straight dynamite is a very primitive form of what we know today as dynamite. Later ammonium nitrate was added to the dynamite. This substance produced a greater explosive action, but less velocity. The intensification of the explosive action results because ammonium nitrate furnishes more oxygen for the dynamite. Ammonium nitrate has not only been used in dynamite, but also in many other different explosive compounds, including nitroglycerine, picric acid, and coal dust. Ammonium nitrate when mixed with these substances creates the cheapest form of high explosive known to man. [ ] *How To Make TNT* [*TNT*] The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning power. Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitroglycerine. It was made because nitroglycerine was so dangerously sensitive to shock. A misguided individual with some sanity would, after making nitroglycerine (an insane act) would immediately convert it to dynamite. This can be done by adding various materials to the nitroglycerine, such as sawdust. The sawdust holds a large weight of nitroglycerine per volume. Other materials, such as ammonium nitrate could be added, and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, and increase the power. But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really safe. T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest known high explosive. Dynamite, of course, was the first. It is certainly the best known high explosive, since it has been popularized by early morning cartoons. It is the standard for comparing other explosives to, since it is the most well known. In industry, a T.N.T. is made by a three step nitration process that is designed to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids which are used to make the product. A terrorist, however, would probably opt for the less economical one step method. The one step process is performed by treating toluene with very strong (fuming) sulfuric acid. Then, the sulfated toluene is treated with very strong (fuming) nitric acid in an ice bath. Cold water is added the solution, and it is filtered. Probably the most inportant explosive compound in use today is TNT (trinitrotoluene). This and other types of high explosives are all used by the military, because of their fantastic power--about 2.25 million pounds per square inch, and their great stability. TNT also has the great advantage of being able to be melted at 82 degrees F., so that it can be poured into shells, mortars, and any other projectiles. Military TNT comes in containers which resemble dry-cell batteries, and are usually ignited by an electrical charge, coupled with an electrical blasting cap, although there are different methods. [ ] *How To Make Tetryl* Tetryl is commonly used in compounds containing TNT, and it works great by itself. Method for the preperation of tetryl: 1. A small amount of dimethyllaniline is dissolved in an excess amount of concentrated sulfuric acid (sulferic acid=battery acid). 2. This mixture is now added to an equal amount of nitric acid. The new mixture is kept in an ice bath and is well stirred. 3. After about five minutes, the tetryl is fltered and washed in cold water. 4. It is now boiled in fresh water, which contains a small amount of sodium bicarbonate(baking soda). This process acts to neutralize the remaining acid. The washings are repeated as many times as necesary according to the litmus paper tests. When you are satisfied that the tetryl is free of acid, filter it from the water and allow it to dry. When tetryl is detonated, it reacts in very much the same way as TNT. 2.0 BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and a pharmacy. These are two of the places that potential terrorists visit in order to purchase explosive material. All that one has to do is know something about the non-explosive uses of the materials. Black powder, for example, is used in blackpowder firearms. It comes in varying "grades", with each different grade being a slightly different size. The grade of black powder depends on what the calibre of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade of powder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is: the smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder. [ ] * BLACK POWDER * Black powder is generally available in three grades. As stated before, the smaller the grade, the faster the powder burns. Burn rate is extremely important in bombs. Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in a confined environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is desirable. The three common grades of black powder are listed below, along with the usual bore width (calibre) of what they are used in. Generally, the fastest burning powder, the FFF grade is desirable. However, the other grades and uses are listed below: GRADE BORE WIDTH EXAMPLE OF GUN F .50 or greater model cannon; some rifles FF .36 - .50 large pistols; small rifles FFF .36 or smaller pistols; derringers The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has more surface area or burning surface exposed to the flame front. The larger grades also have uses which will be discussed later. The price range of black powder, per pound, is about $8.50 - $9.00. The price is not affected by the grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the finer grade of powder. The major problems with black powder are that it can be ignited accidentally by static electricity, and that it has a tendency to absorb moisture from the air. To safely crush it, a bomber would use a plastic spoon and a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile at a time, he or she would apply pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in a series of strokes or circles, but not too hard. It is fine enough to use when it is about as fine as flour. The fineness, however, is dependant on what type of device one wishes to make; obviously, it would be impracticle to crush enough powder to fill a 1 foot by 4 inch radius pipe. Anyone can purchase black powder, since anyone can own black powder firearms in America. [ ] * Gun Powder * Charcoal 13% Saltpeter 75% Sulfur 12% -85% Potassium Nitrate 75% Potassium Nitrate -12% Charcoal 15% Charcoal -03% Sulfur 10% Sulfur (Saltpeter is Sodium Nitrate or Potassium Nitrate) Mix dry, add water to make past, let dry, then crush to grain. Do not use metal object when crushing. The chemicals should be ground into a fine powder (seperately!) with a morter ^ pestle. If gunpowder is ignited in the open, it burns fiercly, but if in a closed space it builds up pressure from the released gases and can explode the container. Gunpowder works like this: The potassium nitrate oxidized the charcoal and sulfur, which then burn fiercely. Carbon dioxide and sulfur dioxide are gases released. [ ] * Formulas For Black Powder * Gunpowder is the great-granddaddy of all the rest of the high and low power explosives, and still to this day is one of the most important explosives. As with all the rest of the explosive formulas, it seems everyone has his own recipe, which he claims to be the best. I have collected 11 of the safer, more functional, methods of preparing gunpowder. The most important thing to remember when dealing with black powder is its incredible sensitivity to sparks. [1> Potassium perchlorate 69.2 [2> Potassium chlorate 75 Sulfur 15.4 Charcoal 12.5 Charcoal 15.4 Sulfur 12.5 [3> Potassium nitrate 70.4 [4> Potassium nitrate 79 Sulfur 19.4 Sulfur 3 Sodium sulfate 10.2 Straw charcoal 18 [5> Potassium nitrate 64 [6> Potassium nitrate 70.6 Sulfur 12 Sulfur 23.5 Lamp black 7 Antimony sulfate 5.9 Sawdust 17 [8> Potassium nitrate 37.5 [7> Potassium nitrate 50 Starch 37.5 Ammonium perchlorate 25 Sulfur 18.75 Sulfur 12.5 Antimony powder 6.25 Charcoal 12.5 [10> Guanidine nitrate 49 [9> Barium nitrate 75 Potassium nitrate 40 Sulfur 12.5 Charcoal 11 Charcoal 12.5 [11> Sodium peroxide 67 Sodium thiosulphate 33 When preparing black powder for use in firearms, it is important to keep in mind that these formulas are more powderful than ordinary potassium nitrate gunpowder, and for that reason smaller quantities should be used. The correct amount can only be discovered by trial-and-error experimentation, but caution must be taken to prevent overloading. Although black powder is one of the safest explosives, it has a disadvantage: It is extremely sensitive to sparks; and it leaves a messy residue in gun barrels, which necessitates frequent cleaning. The advantage of smokeless powder is the low-explosive class, which gives off only gaseuous products upon explosion. The first type of smokeless powder used by the army was basically nitrocellulose with a small amount of diphenylamine, for stablizer. Smokeless powder is perhaps the safest of any explosive compound, and for that reason is extremely popular today. [ ] * Napalm * 1. Fill the bottom container of a houshold double boiler with nothing 2. Fill the top container with gasoline 3. Using gentle electric heat, bring the gasoline to a boil 4. Slowly pour in powdered form soap flakes 5. Stir the mixture as you pour in the soap flakes 6. Continue until saturation 7. Allow the mixture to simmer, and set for a day or so Everyone knows that Napalm is a substance that will stick to practically anything and whn ignited will burn for a extremely long time. [*Napalm #2*] Napalm is in itself a very simple substance...it can be used for many things...(i.e. getting back at your neighor!!) Materials: Gasoline Joy or Palmolive(I prefer Joy) A Coke can with a sawed off top Ammonia Pellets A Drill Some bendable wire A Nail First,make a mixture of 1/2 Joy(my favorite),and 1/2 Gasoline. HTake the coke can, and fill it half full with this wonderful mixture... it should look like this: -^-^-^-^-^-^-^- ! ! ! ! <-Coke Can ! ! !=============! !=============! !=============! <-Mixture !=============! --------------- Now,take the drill(or some sharp object)and put a hole through the amm- onia pellet big enough for the nail.. Put the nail through the pellet(which I might add can be picked up at any farm supply store)and wire that to the top of the can so the nail can be slipped out easily,allowing the pellet to drop...WARNING: DO NOT LET THAT PELLET FALL INTO THE MIXTURE,AS YOUR WIFE WILL SOON BECOME A WIDOW!! Wait until you are ready to set it off to let it drop...It should look like this: (========<+>=========) ! ^^Nail ^^Pellet ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !====================! ' !====================! <-Mixture !====================! !====================! ---------------------- And there is your Napalm grenade... [ ] * Gun Cotton * Commonly known as smokeless powder, Nitrocellulose is exactly that, it does not give off smoke when it burns. Guncotton is usually called "gunpowder" or "Nitrocellulose". It is more stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot gas. It also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined space. Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following procedure: 1. In a large beaker mix 2 parts by volume Nirtic Acid with one part Sulphuric Acid 2. To this mixture add sterilized cotton 3. Pour in a small quanity of acetone (Finger Nail Polish Remover) until the cotton dissolves and white crystals are formed, these crystals are gun cotton. 4. This material must be confined to acheive detonation 5. Gun cotton is spark sensitive, but the use of an M-80 or blasting cap is advised [*Gun Cotton #2*] MATERIALS EQUIPMENT cotton (cellulose) two (2) 200-300 ml beakers concentrated nitric acid funnel and filter paper concentrated sulfuric acid blue litmus paper distilled water 1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add to this 10 cc of concentrated nitric acid. 2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3 minutes. 3) Remove the nitrocotton, and transfer it to a beaker of distilled water to wash it in. 4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it. 5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready to be dried and stored. Gun Cotton #3 MATERIALS- 70ML CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID 30ML CONCENTRATED NITRIC ACID 5G ABSORBENT COTTON 250ML 1M SODIUM BICARBONATE 250ML BEAKER ICE BATH TONGS PAPER TOWELS PLACE 250ML BEAKER IN THE ICE BATH, ADD 70ML SULFURIC ACID, 30 ML NITRIC ACI D. DIVIDE COTTON INTO .7G PIECES. WITH TONGS, IMMERSE EACH PIECE IN THE ACID SO LUTION FOR 1 MINUTE. NEXT, RINSE EACH PIECE IN 3 SUCCESSIVE BATHS OF 500ML WATE R. USE FRESH WATER FOR EACH PIECE. THEN IMMERSE IN 250ML 1M SODIUM BICARBONATE. IF IT BUBBLES, RINSE IN WATER ONCE MORE UNTIL NO BUBBLING OCCURS. SQUEEZE DRY AND SPREAD ON PAPER TOWELS TO DRY OVERNIGHT. [*Unstable Explosive*] 1) Mix solid Nitric Iodine with Household Ammonia. 2) Wait overnight 3) Pour off liquid 4) Dry mud on bottom wait for it to hard 5) Throw something at it! or throw it at something! [ ] *Hindenberg Bomb* Materials: -1 Balloon -1 Bottle -1 Liquid Plumber -1 Pieve of Aluminum Foil -1 Length Fuse Fill the bottle 3/4 full with liquid plumer and add a little piece of aluminum foil to it. Keep the balloon over the neck of the bottle until the ballon is full of the resulting gas. This is highly flammable Hydrogen. Now tie the balloon with fusing inserted. Now light the fuse, and let it rise. When the fuse contacts the balloon, Kaboom!! [ ] * Soft Drink Can Bomb * This is an anti-personnel bomb meant for milling crowds. The bottom of a soft drink can is half cut out and bent back. A giant firecracker or other explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts and bolts or rocks. The fuse is then armed with a chemical delay in a plastic drinking straw. After first making sure there are no children nearby, the acid or glycerine is put into the straw and the can is set down by a tree or wall where it will not be knocked over. The delay should give you three to five minutes. It will then have a shattering effect on passersby. It is hardly likely that anyone would pick up and drink from someone else's soft drink can. But if such a crude person should try to drink from your bomb he would break a nasty habit fast !! !! !! <-Chemical Ingiter --------- ! !1! ! ! ===== ! !*! !"! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !<- Big firecracker ! ! !%! ! ==== ! ! ! ! # ! ! --- ! ! ! ! <- Nuts & Bolts ! / ! ! ! --------- [ ] *Slow Burning Fuse (2 inches per minute)* Materials: -Yarn or cotton string -Potassium Nitrate -Granulated sugar 1. Wash the cotton string or yarn in hot soapy water, then rinse with fresh water 2. Mix the following together in a glass bowl: 1 part Potassium Nitrate, 2 parts granulated sugar, 2 parts hot water 3. Soak string in this solution and allow to dry. 4. Light it up and check to see how it works. [ ] *Fast Burning Fuse (40 in. per minute)* Materials needed: ---> soft cotton string ---> fine black powder ---> shallow dish or pan Procedure: 1. moisten powder to form a paste 2. twist/braid 3 strands of cotton together 3. rub paste into string and allow to dry 4. check burn rate [ ] *Extraction of Potassium Nitrate from soil* Potassium nitrate can be extracted from many natural sources and can be used to make nitric acid, black powder, and many pyrotechnics. The yield ranges from.1 to 10% by weight, depending on the fertility of the soil. Materials Source --------- ------ Nitrate bearing earth or other Soil contaying decaying animal or vegetable material, about 3-1/2 gallons. matter. Fine wood ashes, 1/2 cup. Totally burned wood products. 5gallonbucket 2 pieces of finely woven cloth, each slightly larger than the bottom of the bucket. Shallow pan or dish at least as large as bottom of bucket. Shallow heat resistant container ceramic or metal. Water,1-3/4 gallons. Awl, knife screwdriver or other hole producing instrument. Alcohol (ethyl or isopropyl) 1 gallon Heat source, fire, stove. paper Tape Procedure --------- 1 Punch holes in the bottom of the bucket so that the entire surface is covered with them. 2 Place cloth flat on bottom of bucket. Spread ashes on cloth. Place second piece of cloth on top of ashes 3 Fill bucket with earth. 4 Place bucket over shallow container. Support bucket with sticks if necessary. 5 Boil water and pour it over earth in bucket a little at a time. Allow water to run through holes in bucket into shallow container. Be sure water runs through all of the earth. Allow liquid to cool and settle for 1 to 2 hours. 6 Carefully drain liquid into heat resistant container. Discard sludge at bottom of shallow container. 7 Boil mixture over hot fire for at least 2 hours. Small grains of salt will appear in the solution. Scoop these out as they form and discard. 8 When liquid has boiled down to about half of its original volume, remove from fire and let sit. After half hour add an equal volume of alcohol. 9 Make an improvised strainer out of paper tape and bucket. Tape paper so that it covers the top of a clean bucket. 10 Pour mixture through paper strainer. Small white salt crystals will collect on top of it. These are potassium nitrate. 11 To purify the potassium nitrate, re-dissolve the dry crystals in the smallest amount possible of boiled water (make sure they all dissolve). Remove any salt crystals that appear (step 7) pour through an improvised filter made of several pieces of paper and evaporate or gently heat solution to dryness. 12 Spread crystals on plat surface and allow to dry. The potassium nitrate crystals are now ready to use. This method was tested, it is effective. Large quantities (1 to 2 pounds) of potassium nitrate can be obtained this way! But be careful, and use common sense [ ] *Bar Rockets* Materials: 1-empty unrinced glass bottle of 80 or so proof alchoholic beverage 1-toothpick 1-of those thin red bar straws 1-lighter or match hot water 1. Take the bar straw vertically and stick the toothpick through it horizontally 2. Cap up the bottle with your thumb and run it under hot water for about a minute. 3. Remove your thumb and put the straw into the bottle with the toothpick sitting on the lip of the bottle 4. Stand back and put lighter or match over top of bottle. Diagram: !! !! ---------------- /!\ [][][][] Toothpick__/ ! !! ! / !! \----Bottle / !! \ / !! \ ! ! !------------! ! ! ! ! ! ! !------------! ! ! !------------! When you run the hot water over the bottle the little bit of alchohol still in the bottle turns into a semi-flammable gas. Then when you hold a flame over the bottle it make a small explosion, the force blasts up the straw and shoots it up. Its not that big but a cool trick. [ ] * How To Make Blasting Gelatin * One of the nearly perfect explosive compounds, in the sense of chemical combustion rather than stability, is blasting gelatin. This was discovered by Nobel, and is a very primitive form of plastique, as we know it today. It is made by mixing a small amount of nitrocellulose (nitrated sawdust) with a larger amount of nitroglycerin. This creates a stiff, plastic substance which has power as an explosive greater than either of its ingredients. A person attempting to make this should use 92% nitroglycerin and 8% nitrocellulose, and pray. If you don't want to mess with making nitrocellulose and have access to guncotton, it can be substituted. [ ] * Formulas For Gelatin Dynamites * NG = Nitroglycerin [1> NG 12 [2> NG 88 Guncotton 0.5 Potassium nitrate 5 Ammonium nitrate 87.5 Tetryl 7 [3> NG 9.5 [4> NG 9.5 Guncotton 0.5 Guncotton 0.5 Ammonium nitrate 59 Ammonium nitrate 59.5 Woodmeal 6 Woodmeal 6 Ammonium oxalate 10 Ammonium oxalate 5 Sodium chloride 15 Sodium chloride 19.5 [5> NG 24 [6> NG 12 Guncotton 1 Ammonium nitrate 87.5 Ammonium nitrate 75 Collodion cotton 0.5 [7> NG 71 [8> NG 75 Ammonium nitrate 23 Guncotton 5 Collodion cotton 4 Potassium nitrate 15 Charcoal powder 2 Woodmeal 5 [9> NG 12 [10> NG 30 Guncotton 0.5 Guncotton 1 Ammonium nitrate 82.5 Ammonium nitrate 68 Potassium nitrate 5 Sodium chloride 1 [11> NG 9.5 [12> NG 25 Ammonium nitrate 67.5 Ammonium nitrate 62 Woodmeal 8 Tetryl 1 Sodium chloride 15 Charcoal powder 12 [13> NG 80 [14> NG 60 Ethylene glycol dinitrate 20 Dinitrotoluene 40 [15> NG 60 [16> NG 29 Guncotton 4 Guncotton 1 Potassium nitrate 28 Ammonium nitrate 65 Woodmeal 8 Potassium nitrate 5 [17> NG 55 [18> NG 27 Guncotton 3 Guncotton 0.7 Potassium nitrate 18 Ammonium nitrate 30 Woodmeal 7 Sodium nitrate 30 Anhydrous magneium sulfate 17 Charcoal powder 11 Barium sulfate 1.3 [19> NG 29 Guncotton 1 Ammonium nitrate 70 [ ] * Tamping * Tamping is nothing more than an operation performed before the explosion, to regulate and direct the destructive power of the explosion. In other words, if a pound of black powder is ignited with a match, the explosion will occur but most of the destructive force will take the path of the least resistance - into the atmosphere. Now, if the same pound of black powder was placed within a steel pipe, and sealed at both ends, except for a tiny hole for the fuse, the explosion could be regulated with ease. This tamping operation is necessary for any forms of demolitions in order that the operation be successful. A stick of dynamite placed on a concrete roadway untamped, when exploded will create a very small crater, perhaps a few inches. If this same stick of dynamite were tamped, by placing several sandbags on top of if and around it, the explosion would create a much greater crater. This tamping operation is absolutely necessary for the demolition of a large structure or building. [1> When attempting to sever a steel rod or pole, through the use of explosives, place a charge on each side, leaving a small gap between the butts of the explosives. [2> When cutting a chain, place the explosive charge on one side and tape it securely into place. [3> When cutting any odd-shaped object, the best explosive to use is plastique because of its flexibility. It is especially usefull and effective when cutting heavy metal cables. The compound should be placed around the side of the cable that is to be cut, about a half-inch thick. When sabotaging railroad tracks with explosive, use plastique if available, since this is the easiest substance to use when trying to sever objects or irregular shapes. The most common way of cutting train tracks is by placing a charge of high explosives on either side of the "I" beam track, so as to have the forces of the two explosions act upon each other, thus causing the middle object maximum destruction. Another method which has proven equally effective is placing a charge between the rail and the switch. The switch is one of the weakest points along the line, and a relatively small charge will not only sever the switch and rail, but will also rip up the ties and the railroad bed. Tamping with sandbags can and should be used if at all possible, since the extent of the damage is multiplied several times by the addition of the sandbags. Tamping can be useless if you are on a silent lightning-fast mission. In this case, a two-pound charge of TNT carefully placed between the switch and rail will almost certainly do the trick without tamping. The best procedure when engaged in this type of sabotage is to repeat the acts every three-quarters of a mile or so, so as to delay the repairmen and create confusion. [ ] *Placement Of Charges* In demolition work, the greatest problem is the actual placement of the charges. When an individual is working on a large structure such as a building or a bridge, it is imperative that he have an understanding of the directional force of explosives, and the structure's weaknesses. These large-type structures are built to bear up under abnormal stress, so the chances are good, unless the charges are placed correctly, that the sabotage will have little or no effect. When attempting the demolition of a building, the first thing to do is to determine the weakest point in the structure. This is the point where a charge can be placed and well-tamped, and will result in maximum destruction. A large building will usually take more than just one charge. The best bet is to place large explosive charges on either side of a weak point in the foundations. These charges should be tamped from the outside, so as to drive the force inward. There are several basic methods of planting explosives. The advantage to most of the ones listed below is that they have a natural tamping factor, built-in. [1> Bury the explosive beneath the object of destruction. [2> Drill a bore hole into the object and fill with explosives. [3> Form a brace to hold the explosives tight against the object of destruction. A good brace can be made from wood placed on a diagnol, with one end jammed into the ground. [4> Place a charge out in the open, with the tamping material surrounding it, and directing its force. [ ] * Basic Formulas For Demolitions Use and Lacing * [1> Computation for minimum safety distance. For charges less then 27 pounds, the minimum safety distance is 900 feet. Over 27 pounds, the minimum safety distance can be figured by using the following formula: ____________________________ 300 x 3/ Pounds of explosive (T.N.T.) (Read: 300 times the cubic root of pounds of explosive) [2> Steel cutting When cutting, with explosives, part of a steel structure, determine the area in square inches of the member to be cut. This area is then labeled "A" and can use the following formula: P = 3/8 A P = The number of pounds of T.N.T. necessary. (Read: P equals 3 eighths times A) [3> Steel cutting When a steel member is not part of a greater structure, a different formula is used. This is based on the diameter of the individual member. 2 P=D (Read: P equals D squared) P = The amount of T.N.T. required, and D is the diameter of the piece of steel. [4> Train rails To cut rails that weigh less then 80 pounds, use one-half pound of explosives. To cut rails that weigh over 80 pounds, use a full pound of explosives. [5> Timber cutting When the charge is to be external and untamped, the formula is as follows: 3 P = C --- 30 (Read: P equals C cubed divided by 30) P = The pounds of explosives required, and C equals the circumference of the tree in feet (this formula is given for plastique). When figuring an internal tamped charge, the formula is: 2 P = D --- 250 (Read: P equals D squared divided by 250) P = The pounds of explosives, and D equals the diameter of the tree in inches. [Some Important Principles] A basic rule to follow in all calculations having to do with explosive compounds is to round off the amount to the next highest unit package. At times you may use a little more than necessary, but you will be assured of success. Another rule when calculating charges is to add one-third more explosives if you do not intend to tamp. If a formula is given for plastique (composition 4), as was done for both timber-cutting formulas, you are able to compute poundage in TNT by adding one-third to the weight of the plastique. When using the principle of cratering to destroy a paved surface with explosives, use several charges rather than just one. The use of a bore hole is especially effective here. It is pointless to attempt cratering a roadway without tamping, since most of the destructive force of your charge will go straight up in the air. Bombs and booby traps incorporate more than just technical knowledge, they are based on human nature. To create an effective booby trap, one must have a primitive insight into his enemy's actions, thoughts, and methods. Before I get into the nitty-gritty of constructing booby traps, bombs, land mines, grenades, etc., it is important explain the basic working principles and mechanisms behind these devices. In the acquisition of equipment I would recommend purchasing or stealing, rather than making your own. Manufactured equipment is much safer to work with, and usually more effective. Once you have your explosive compounds, you will need a way to set it off, or detonate it. With all high explosives, you will need a detonator or blasting cap, unless you decide to lace the fuse into the explosive, although this is not recommended. A blasting cap is a low- explosive compound that is connected to a high explosive, for the purpose of detonating it. There are two types of blasting caps - electric and nonelectric. To use a nonelectrical blasting cap, one gently pushes the fuse into the hollow end, until it is fully in. He then crimps the hollow metal end around the fuse, and puts it into the high explosive. When the fuse burns down it ignites the flash charge. That in turn explodes the priming charge, which detonates the base charge, and finally creates enough heat to set off the high-explosive charge. The fuse is ordinary safety fuse or detonating cord. When the fuse is put into the blasting cap, it is necessary to seal it. This act of sealing is called crimping. When involved with this sort of thing, one must use the standard safety precautions set down in the previous section. Crimpers look like a pair of pliers, and their function is very similar, although pliers cannot be used for crimping. With the crimper in your right hand and the blasting cap in your left, slowly squeeze the hollow end of the blasting cap until it is firmly against the fuse. Use care so that you do not squeeze the charge within the cap, as this may detonate it. Whereas nonelectrical blasting caps are functional and have proven that they can be relied on, electrical blasting caps offer a much greater variety of uses. The basic principle of the electrical blasting caps is that an electrical charge moves through an insulated wire until it reaches a small section of that same wire which is not insulated and which is surrounded by a primary flash charge. The heat from the electrical charge will explode the flash charge, which in turn will set off a series of minor explosions, finishing up with the high explosive. Both types of blasting caps should be placed within the high explosive itself. This is easy when working with plastique or a pliable surface. Manufactured TNT has a small hole designed at the top for just this reason, but in dynamite one has to make his own hole. This hole should be made with a wooden or nonsparking metal object. The ends of the crimpers are ideal. The hole can be made in one of two ways: the first is bored carefully and gently straight down from the top of the stick, to exactly the length of the cap itself; the second type of hole is made from the side in a downward diagnol direction. Both of these methods have proven effective. Another method priming dynamite, which is not as reliable as either nonelectrical or electrical blasting caps, is called "lacing". The principle behind most detonating devices is simply to create a temperature which is hot enough to ignite the high explosive. This increase in temperature can be accomplished with a relatively good degree of success by weaving the fuse throughout the high explosive so that, as the fuse burns down, the heat created from the burning process it captures and held within the high explosive until the detonation temperature is reached. There are different methods of lacing, depending on what type of high explosive you happen to working with. For dynamite, the most common and most functional method is to literally sew the detonation cord into the stick. This preparation entails the individual's making several holes directly through the dynamite itself. This hole-making should be performed just as the planting of the blasting cap was handled. The holes must be dug gently and slowly with a nonmetallic instrument. "Lacing" should be done only when there is no alternative, and blasting caps are not available. When using TNT, you can lace it by wrapping the detonating cord around the body of the explosive at least five or six times, and then tying it off with a clove hitch. This will result in a great amount of heat being transferred into the TNT from the fuse, and its detonation. Plastique can also be ignited in this fashion, by employing a heavy- duty detonation cord, and tying a double knot in one of its ends. This large knot is then buried deep in the center of the composition. It must be at least one inch from any side. [ ] * How to Hotwire a Car * The easiest way is to just get under the dashboard and start crossing wires. Of course this could short out the entire electrical system so there is a better way. When you get in the car, look under the dash. If it's enclosed then don't bother. Most new cars are like this unfortunately. However you could cut through the dash. If you do cut just do it near the ignition. Once you get behind or near the ignition, look for two red wires. In older cars this was the standard color code. If they aren't there you'll just have to try whatever else you can find. Pull out the two wires and cross them. The car should start. [ ] * Fax Machine Fun * In the late 80's we have seen a massive explosion in the popularity of fax machines. Everyone has one. They are cheap, easy to use, and very useful. Up until now, however, they have been almost exclusivly in the province of the buisness world. Just for those of you who have been in comas for the last few years, I'll explain fax machines to you. Fax machines are combination scanners/modems/printers. You can transmit the contents of a piece of paper to another fax over the phone lines. Usually, your fax also prints the number you called from on the first sheet of the transmittal. It is easy to see why buisnesses like these. No longer content with Federal Express, now letters can go cross country in minutes. Faxes have about 200-250 dpi resolution, and print out on rolls of thermal paper. For some odd reason, most of them are 4800 baud. "So what" you ask? Most people don't seem to realize the potential available here. When I worked at The FHLB, we used to get faxes all the time, with requests for checks. Occaisionaly, we also got short notes from the idiots at the other banks. This is what gave me the idea for what I call, for lack of a better term, Fax Piracy. Fax Piracy is the ultimate prank call. Let me give you an example. There was this Library I hated, and, like everyone else, they have a fax. So what me and a few of my freinds did was send them requests, "from" another Library for books. I found out later, from a kid who worked there that they wasted about $50, sending them all the books. Not much, but if you know how cheap librarians are, you can imagine the shit fits they had. Next, we send them a "Mobius Fax" we got some sheets of black construction paper, taped about 10 of them together, and started feeding them through the fax. Once the start of the long sheet we had created came through, we taped it to the end. This went on continuosly for about 15 minutes until their (very expensive) thermal paper ran out. Since we had sent them nothing but black paper, it completely covered and ruined all of their paper. This used up their 3month paper allocation at once, and they had to borrow from petty cash to buy more. Finally we sent them a little note, telling them what idiots they were, and signing it "the fax pirates" HOW TO DO IT- First, and this is VERY IMPORTANT- Always remember to REPROGRAM the fax so it displays someone elses name and number. If you forget to do this, its like sending a letter bomb with a return adress. Second, decide what to send. This is entirely up to you (duh) , and depends on whether you want to annoy them, or really destroy them.* Wierd requests from other companies you hate, long rambling stories, or strange art is always good. Be a little creative Third, send it. (wow, some people need to be told everything, don't they) What? You don't know their fax #? Its not in information? Its not in the phone book? Well, keep reading! HOW TO GET FAX PHONE NUMBERS- This is just way easier than it should be. Call and ask. I'm serious, we've done this probably over 30 times, and NO ONE HAS EVER QUESTIONED OUR REQUEST! I'll give you a sample of a call that actually happened. (this is verbatum)(we taped it) IBM LADY Hello, IBM, may I help you? ME Hi, this is Biff Fulgate from over here at Linear Data Systems Can I get your fax number, those boys in research need to send something over and they lost the number again. IBM LADY Please hold on a moment ME Sure thing. Hah, those cooks over in research would probably lose their heads if they wern't screwed on. IBM LADY Haha. Now is that the Tower 700 number? ME Um...let me check here... Yeah, that's it. (Tower 700? what?) IBM LADY Ok, hold on (Long wait during which I get slightly nervous) IBM LADY Ok That number is 313-xxx-xxxx ME Thanks, Bye Also, most ads have fax numbers. Don't fuck with little companies though. A) they don't need it, B) they are probably more suspicious, C) it hurts them more than it would hurt a big company. be a caring capitolist. If you need any suggestions as to who's number to get try the following- newspapers, radios stations, big companies, libraries, city & state governments, the right to life movement, etc. HINTS- Act like you know whats going on at all times. Be polite, and a little bit familiar Make sure you have a plausable reason for getting the number Don't laugh Let the person who sounds most 'adult-like' make the call Make sure you have a plausable name Remember, the larger the company, the less the people know and care about other parts of the company, so the greater chance you have of not getting hassled. ALSO! Don't forget to change the "number" you are calling from. If you want to send a Mobius Fax, usually Faxes have paper feed trays (we didn't know that when we did it) ALSO- NEVER, EVER, DO THIS TO AT&T! HOW TO GET A FAX TO USE- Well, if you don't have one, try mommy's or daddy's office. Most Campus offices have faxes you can pretend that you are supposed to be using (tell them the Library sent you). Many print-shops (like Kinko's) have fax machines that you can use for a nominal fee. And, just like terminals in the early 80's, most fax machines are just sitting out in offices, if you dress nicely, and look like you know what you're doing, no one is going to ask questions. *-- for really good info on how to really fuck up a company with mail, or faxes, I reccomend Keith Wade's POISON PEN LETTERS & YOUR REVENGE IS IN THE MAIL both available from the Loompanics Book Catalog (see my file on that for the adress) [*Smoke Bombs*] One type of pyrotechnic device that might be employed by a terrorist in many way would be a smoke bomb. Such a device could conceal the getaway route, or cause a diversion, or simply provide cover. Such a device, were it to produce enough smoke that smelled bad enough, could force the evacuation of a building, for example. Smoke bombs are not difficult to make. Although the military smoke bombs employ powdered white phosphorus or titanium compounds, such materials are usually unavailable to even the most well-equipped terrorist. Instead, he/she would have to make the smoke bomb for themselves. Most homemade smoke bombs usually employ some type of base powder, such as black powder or pyrodex, to support combustion. The base material will burn well, and provide heat to cause the other materials in the device to burn, but not completely or cleanly. Table sugar, mixed with sulfur and a base material, produces large amounts of smoke. Sawdust, especially if it has a small amount of oil in it, and a base powder works well also. Other excellent smoke ingredients are small pieces of rubber, finely ground plastics, and many chemical mixtures. The material in road flares can be mixed with sugar and sulfur and a base powder produces much smoke. Most of the fuel-oxodizer mixtures, if the ratio is not correct, produce much smoke when added to a base powder. The list of possibilities goes on and on. The trick to a successful smoke bomb also lies in the container used. A plastic cylinder works well, and contributes to the smoke produced. The hole in the smoke bomb where the fuse enters must be large enough to allow the material to burn without causing an explosion. This is another plus for plastic containers, since they will melt and burn when the smoke material ignites, producing an opening large enough to prevent an explosion. 1) Mix 3 parts Sugar : 6 Parts Epson salt 2) put in a tin can, and onto a low flame (like a lighter) 3) let gel harden 4) put match in as a fuse. 5) light and run like hell cause 4 pounds will fill a city block... The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since this reaction is not all that dangerous you can use larger amounts if necessary for larger amounts of smoke. 6G Zinc powder 1G Sulfur powder Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back. A lot of smoke should be created Simple smoke and stink bomb- You can purchase Sulphur at a drugstore under the name FloWers of Sulphur. Now when Sulphur burns it will give off a very strong odor and plenty of smoke. Now all you need is a fuse from a firecracker, a tin can, and the Sulphur. Fill the can with Sulphur(pack very lightly), Put Aluninum foil over the top of the can, poke a small hole into the foil, insert the wick, and light it and get out of the room if you value your lungs. You can find many uses for this( or atleast i hope so. [ ] *Formulas For Different-Colored Smoke Screens* Black Smoke Screen [1> Magnesium powder 19% [2> Magnesium powder 20 hexachloroethane 60 hexachloroethane 60 naphthalene 21 naphthalene 20 [3> Hexachloroethane 55.8 [4> Black powder FFF 50 alpha naphol 14 Potassium nitrate 10 athracene 4.6 coal tar 20 aluminum powder 9.3 powdered charcoal 15 smokeless powder 14 paraffin 5 naphthalene 2.3 White Smoke Screen [1> Potassium chlorate 44 [2> Zinc dust 28 sulfur flour 15 zinc oxide 22 zinc dust 40 hexachloroethane 50 sodium bicarbonate 1 [3> zinc dust 66.67 hexachloroethane 33.33 Yellow Smoke Screen [1> Potassium chlorate 25 [2> Potassium chlorate 30 paranitraniline 50 naphthalene azodimethyl analine 50 lactrose 25 powdered sugar 20 [3> Potassium chlorate 21.4 naphthalene azodimethyl aniline 2.7 auramine 38 sodium bicarbonate 28.5 sulfur flour 9.4 Green Smoke Screen [1> Potassium nitrate 20 red arsenic 20 sulfur flour 20 antimony sulfide 20 black powder FFF 20 Red Smoke Screen [1> Potassium chlorate 20 [2> Potassium chlorate 26 lactose 20 diethylaminorosindone 48 paranitraniline red 60 powdered sugar 26 [3> Potassium chlorate 27.4 [4> Potassium perchlorate 25 methylaminoanthraquinone 42.5 antimony sulfide 20 quinone 42.5 rhodamine red 50 sodium bicarbonate 19.5 dextrin 5 sulfur flour 10.6 COLOR MATERIAL USED IN _____________________________________________________________________________ __ red strontium road flares, salts red sparklers (strontium nitrate) _____________________________________________________________________________ __ green barium salts green sparklers (barium nitrate) _____________________________________________________________________________ __ yellow sodium salts gold sparklers (sodium nitrate) _____________________________________________________________________________ __ blue powdered copper blue sparklers, old pennies _____________________________________________________________________________ __ white powdered magnesium firestarters, or aluminum aluminum foil _____________________________________________________________________________ __ purple potassium permanganate purple fountains, treating sewage [ ] *How To Make Smokeless Powder* [1> Boil cotton for 30 minutes, in a 2% solution of sodium hydroxide. [2> Wash the cotton in hot water and allow it to dry. [3> Mix slowly and carefully at 25 degrees Centigrade, 250 cc. of concentrated sulfuric acid, 150 cc. of concentrated nitric acid, and 20 cc. of water. They must be kept at 25 degrees C. [4> Next place the dried cotton in the acid solution, and stir well with either a glass or porcelain rod (do not use metal). This should be done for 35 minutes. [5> After nitration, the acids are washed away, and the cotton is washed in boiling water five times, each time for 25 minutes. The cotton is given several tests with litmus paper. If the litmus test proves that there is still some acid present, a 2% solution of sodium bicarbonate should neutralize whatever is left. This is important, since any remaining acid acts as an impurity to make the explosive more unstable. [ ] *SMOKE BOMBS* (1) MATERIALS [1] 6 Table Spoons of Potassium Nitrate [2] 5 Table Spoons of Sugar [3] Something to melt them together [4] Something to pore the stuff into [5] Magnesium strips or ribbon (2) THE MIXTURE [1] Measure 6 parts Potassium Nitrate and 5 parts Sugar and put them in the can that you are going to heat them in and blend them together. [2] Put the can over the stove and heat the mixture together (make sure that you dont ignite the stuff in the can- to prevent this form happening make sure you stur and have it under a low flame [3] When you notice that the two solids have become a liquid then take the can off of the stove and pour the stuff into the thing you want it in and imbed the magnesium into the stuff to use as an igniter. [4] one pound of this stuff will engolph a hole chicago block as long as there is no wind [ ] *Time Delay Devices* There are three different types of time-delay devices: 1) Metal strip under tension till it breaks. 2) Chemical action that will, after a period of time, produce enough heat to detonate the explosive charge. 3) An alarm clock set for a certain time, so that when it rings it will complete and electrical circuit, thus detonating an electrical blasting cap. The first method, metal under tension until breakage, I will not discuss, since it is extremely hazardous and unreliable. You can have little or no control over timing, and such devices are notorious for backfiring. The chemical-action time-delay methods have proven to be pretty reliable. Most of this action incorporates the amount time taken by certain solution of acid to eat its way through another substance. The time length can be determined by the concentration of the acid and by the substance to be eaten through. Nipple Time Bomb ---------------- An example of this type of chemical action is the Nipple Time Bomb, which is very effective. One must obtain a short section of steel pipe and cap each end accordingly. Place inside the steel pipe a stick of dynamite, and drill a quarter-inch hole at on end of the cap. Now, into this hole you must place a small amount of potassium chlorate and gunpowder. Now, seperatly from the pipe, take a small glass vial and fill it with a concentrated sulfuric acid solution, then stop up the end with a paper or cork stopper. To arm the bomb, place the vial of acid upside down in the hole at the top of the pipe. Now, when the acid has eaten its way through the stopper, it will come in contact with the potassium chlorate and gunpowder. The mixture of these chemicals will cause a minor explosion, but it will be large enough to produce the heat necessary to detonate the dynamite. The detonation time is usually between three and six hours. If a solution of sulfuric acid and glycerin is used, rather than just a pure sulfuric acid, the time delay will be up to five or six days. Here is a diagram: $ = Vial with Sulfuric Acid Mixture % = Potassium Chlorate # = Gunpowder +--+$+--+ ! !$! ! C ! !$! ! A ==> ! !%! ! P ! !#! ! ! +-+ ! +-+---+-+ ! ! ! D ! ! Y ! P ! N ! I ==> ! A ! P ! M ! E ! I ! ! T ! ! E ! ! ! +-+---+-+ C ! ! A ==> ! ! P ! ! ! ! ! ! +-------+ Vial of Sulfuric Acid: +---+ A ! ! I ==> ! ! R ! ! !%%%! SULFURIC !%%%! ==> !%%%! ACID !%%%! !%%%! !%_%! STOPPER ==> !/ \! +---+ Place the vial upside down in the top of the bomb as shown. Incendiary Time Bomb This next one is an incendiary time bomb. This is very similiar to the Nipple Time Bomb, in that it relies on the same chemical action, but without the dynamite. The procedure is very simple. A cardboard box or iron tube is filled with a mixture of three-quarters potassium chlorate and one-quarter sugar, and then sealed. At one end a hole is made. Into that hole is placed an inverted vial of sulfuric acid, with a paper or cork stopper, it will come into contact with the potassium chlorate-sugar mixture. This will result in a very hot, powerful fire. Illustration: % = Vial of Sulfuric Mixture as in the above bomb $ = Cork or Paper Stopper # = Mixture of Potassium Cholrate and Sugar +---+ +---+ ! !%! ! ! !%! ! ! !%! ! ! !%! ! ! !$! ! ! +-+ ! !#########! !#########! !#########! !#########! !#########! !#########! +---------+ Magnifying-Glass Bomb The Magnigying-Glass Bomb is effective, but it has many disadvantages. The procedure is very simple. Take a tin can and fill three-quarters of it with highly coompressed gunpowder. Now attach to the top of the can a small magnifying glass, so that the sun's light, when magnifyed through the glass, will cause the heat necessary to detonate the charge. This works very well, as long as it doesn't rain. Illustration: Magnifying Glass ! +-----+ +------! !------+ ! +-----+ ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%! !%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%! !%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%! !%%%%%GUNPOWDER%%%%%! !%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%! !%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%! !%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%! +-------------------+ Alarm-Clock Time Bomb The alarm-clock detonation method is the most accurate device, in that a person can the the exact time he wishes the bomb to explode. It is connected in the same fashion as the other eletrical-circuit booby traps. Wires are connected to the hammer of the bell and to the bell itself, via the blasting cap, to a dry cell. The clock should be set to go off before the booby trap is built. When the alarm goes off, the hammer and bell connect completing the electrical circuit and detonating the explosive. Illustration: %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% % +---++---+ % DYNAMITE % % ! +!!+ ! %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% % ! !DC! ! % DYNAMITE % % ! !re! ! %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% % ! !yl! ! % DYNAMITE % % ! ! l! ! %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% % ! +--+ +-- Blasting Cap % %%!%%%%%%%%!%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% % ! ! % DYNAMITE % % +-+----+-+ %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% % !oooo! % DYNAMITE % % !oooo! %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% % !oooo! % DYNAMITE % % +----+ %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% % Clock % DYNAMITE % %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% [ ] *Supermarket Fun* As some of you might have already guessed, this file will tell you all about how to have loads of fun in any supermarket or grocery store. There are many different things to do in a supermarket that will provide entertainment as well as pissing off people in general. First, though, you should get some friends to increase the entertainment value of the whole excursi- on, as well as to provide even more destruction. I've found that you can get away with a lot of things (playing chase throughout the aisles, playing soccer or football with various perishables, etc.) and no one will say anything. If anyone does say anything, do the kindly anarchist thing and tell them to fuck off. Ok. One very fun thing to do is fuck with the shopping carts themselves. You can fill up many carts and then strew them all around the store, for example. I'm sure that almost every employee just loves to spend their time ridding the store of the bogus carts you created. Or maybe you would rather gather ten or so carts and then make barriers in aisles when no one is looking. Wouldn't you like to hear "Um...Frank..someone seems to have made a collection of carts in aisle four, so could you clean it up please, thank you..." announced over the loudspeaker system of your nearest Giant or Safeway? Or you can have your very own shopping cart drag races in the frozen food section. Perhaps you're one of the more destructive types. If you are, then "bumper carts" is just for you. Just smash the carts into one another and relive those magic childhood moments at the carnival. One VERY funny stunt that produces great results is fucking with other people's carts. Just go around throwing things into carts when the owner is not looking. "Wait a minute..where the hell did this damn watermellon come from?! I hate watermellons." Doing that can greatly confuse a person, so go ahead, make someone think they're goin' crazy! Another fun thing to do at a grocery store is, of course, playing with the food. See how many times you and a friend can throw toilet paper over aisle eight without hitting anyone. You can always go for 'distance' by throwing fruits or vegetables over as many aisles as possible. Or perhaps you would rather test your bowling skills. Just stack up anything handy (paper towles, cans, plastic soda bottles, etc.) and roll any sphere like object at it (melons, or perhaps a can of Kool Aid?) You could always play a quick game of basketball. Just set up an empty cart and find something that bounces or doesn't), then go for those three point shots. In fact, almost every major sport (except water pollo, but that's not a major sport, now is it?) can be played with ease at your closest supermakert or grocery store. Pissing off the employees is also entertaining. I'm sure you can think of many ways to do this, but try the following. Trying to buy alcohol if you're under age (insist that you aren't!), shouting obscenities, eating 'bulk' food right out of the container, dropping (accidently of course!) a few glass bottles, going down to where the employees eat and just sit at the table, and also try to buy nine packs of gum in the '8 items or less' lane. You could also try loitering, just sit at the magazine rack and catch up on your reading. Another fun thing to do is to keep bugging an employee hard at work. I'm sure an employee would appreciate it if you dragged him from his task just so you could buy one red hot from the bulk food section. Yet another entertaining thing to do is cause the store to lose customers. The easiest way to do this is to just buy something so you and a friend can get in line. Then look at what the person ahead of you is getting and tell your friend that "whatever the next person has" was laced with poison or something to that effect. Oh, here's yet another entertaining thing to do. Go outside the store and look for carts that are full and just sitting there with no on by them (the owner has gone to get his/her car). When you have found such a cart, take some bags or better yet, take the whole cart. Now you have a weeks worth of free groceries. So get some friends together and have a party (what else would you do with six bags of food?) If the owner suddenly appears while you are "buying" your groceries, just push the cart as hard as you can at him/her and take off. If you are lucky enough two find two of these carts, then you can have some real fun. Just start taking things out of one cart and chuck it in the other, better yet, just exchange bags! Then sit back and watch the confussion. Although the people probably won't notice the difference until they get home and unpack. Don't you wish you could see their reaction?! Oh, you could also just take someones cart and move it down a bit...that way you could see their reaction and that would of course increase your enjoyment. A vast amount of fun can be had in the frozen food section. Just take some frozen products or ice cream and put them in one of those desrted isles so they can thaw out. After that, cruise over to where ever the food coloring is kept and snag some. Then go back to frozen foods and find some nice ice cream. Now just open up ice cream containers and put about thirty drops of red (or whatever color) food coloring in 'em. Wouldn't YOU be surprised if you opened up a half gallon of vanilla ice cream at home and found red swirls and patches in it?? Do you want to get people in trouble? Then you can have lots of fun screwing with the prices of things. You can take some steaks and throw 'em into the "reduced food section". Most people are stupid and would jump at the chance to get a turkey for a few bucks. Or, you could just take a large marker into the store with you and write "5 cents" on everything you see. Write it on donut boxes, cereal boxes, soda bottles, or anything you see. My last topic is everyone's favorite, taking what is not rightfully yours (shoplifting, dumbass) It's surprisingly simple to lift things from grocery stores. I'm not going to give you a shoplifting tutorial here though, if you need to read a phile to learn how to lift, you're an idiot. Also, you can eat things right in the store if you want. Just take your snack to a deserted aisle and then satisfy your stomach. Of course, the only thing you could steal from Giant is food (or those cheap plastic toys often found in grocery stores, but why would you want those?), and since a box of cereal is a bit to obvious under one's shirt, I suggest candy. But go ahead and take what you want... Well, I was wrong, I have one more thing I want to tell you about (gee I'm tricky...) Ok, have you ever seen those swinging double-doors in the back near the meat?? These doors can lead you to loads of fun. Back there they store all their excess until they have room for it. So you can go back there and fuck around like crazy (if anyone asks you what the hell you're doing back there, just say you're going to the bathroom, the bathrooms are ALWAYS back there somewhere), doing whatever the hell you want. Try rearranging anything you may find back there. Go ahead, screw up their inventory! [ ] The Mammoth Fire Pillar The concept behind this one is simple. In fifth grade we had a little project where we filled a can with flour and put a small candle in it and blew the flour with one those curve straw type things. How it works is the flour is all blown into the air around the candle and the little "bits" are caught on fire and light more and more until you get a column on fire. The concept here is the same only on a much larger scale. What you need: - A big can, like something your mom might buy a year's supply of peas in or something. Around 1 gallon or above if possible (be sure this is NOT plastic! - Some type of candle. I like to use a bunch of those magic relight candles tied together so that if it goes out it'll start back up. - A bag of flour - Some plastic tubing about 1/4 inch and 2-3 feet long. You may want to get a few elbow joints(E) for this, but at least one is needed. This is the basic configuration- | | | | | I | | I | --------------------------\ I | <-BIG CAN ------------------------\ | I | | | | I | | I | |:::::::::::::I:::::::::::::| FLOUR -> |:::::::::::::I:::::::::::::| |:::::::::::::I:::::::::::::| +---------------------------+ /^\ | THE CANDLE Now all you have to do is light the candle and blow on the tubing VERY hard. What you might want to do is get a big baloon to use, or what I did is I took an old bike and took the valve off of the tire and hooked it to the end. Now I use either a foot pump, which can get tiring since you have to go very fast, or I acquire some of those CO2 cartriges used to inflate tires like when you're on a big biking trip. I also recommend that you get tubing that will not melt in the fire, you might even want to try some type of metal, although for me some good hard plastic works. [ ] LEAD AZIDE Lead Azide is a material that is often used as a booster charge for other explosive, but it does well enough on its own as a fairly sensitive explosive. It does not detonate too easily by percussion or impact, but it is easily detonated by heat from an igniter wire, or a blasting cap. It is simple to produce, assuming that the necessary chemicals can be procured. By dissolving sodium azide and lead acetate in water in separate beakers, the two materials are put into an aqueous state. Mix the two beakers together, and apply a gentle heat. Add an excess of the lead acetate solution, until no reaction occurs, and the precipitate on the bottom of the beaker stops forming. Filter off the solution, and wash the precipitate in hot water. The precipitate is lead azide, and it must be stored wet for safety. If lead acetate cannot be found, simply acquire acetic acid, and put lead metal in it. Black powder bullets work well for this purpose. [ ] * THERMIT * This stuff can burn *anything*. [except Tungsten].. It's great for burning open a a pay phone Thermit is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate tremendous amounts of heat. It was not presented in section 3.23 because it does not react nearly as readily. It is a mixture of iron oxide and aluminum, both finely powdered. When it is ignited, the aluminum burns, and extracts the oxygen from the iron oxide. This is really two very exothermic reactions that produce a combined temperature of about 2200 degrees C. This is half the heat produced by an atomic weapon. It is difficult to ignite, however, but when it is ignited, it is one of the most effective firestarters around. MATERIALS powdered aluminum (10 g) powdered iron oxide (10 g) 1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermit. Simply mix the two powders together, and try to make the mixture as homogenous as possible. The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is 50% / 50% by weight, and be made in greater or lesser amounts. 2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount of potassium chlorate to the thermit, and pouring a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. This method and others will be discussed later in section 4.33. The other method of igniting thermit is with a magnesium strip. Finally, by using common sparkler-type fireworks placed in the thermit, the mixture can be ignited. [ ] *How to make Thermite* 1) First you need rust. The best way to make alot of it is.... a) get an electric train transformer b) attach a common nail to the PLUS (+) end of the transformer c) get a glass jar d) fill it with water e) put salt [regular table salt is fine] into the water f) put the other end (-) into water with the nail [leave the transformer out, of course] g) turn on the transformer h) let the contraption run overnight i) seperate out all the red shit [that's the rust] with a filter or a spoon. j) let the stuff dry [like on a paper towel] k) that's it! you have rust! 2) Get some aluminum filings from the hardware store [or shave your own from a bar with less that 94% pure aluminum, called duralumin] 3) Now, just mix: 8 grams rust -------------------------- 3 grams aluminum filings 4) That's Thermite!! Now, to ignite it... 5) You now need some Magnesium ribbon. To get it, you can: a) steal it from the chemistry lab at school b) buy it at the hardware store c) buy it from a chemical supply house. 6) Alright, shove the Magesium ribbon into the Thermite at a fuse. 7) Then light it with a blowtorch. [It won't get hot enough to ignite the Thermite, though] 8) last step: get the hell back. [it can vaporize CARBON STEEL!] [ ] * Thermite * PART 1: Thermite Materials needed: Aluminum Powder (no coarser than ground coffee) Iron Oxide Flakes (Iron II Oxide, similar to coarse ground coffee) Jar or can with tight fitting lid. Spoon or cup for measuring Preparation: 1) Ok, put 3 parts by volume of iron oxide to 2 parts by volume of aluminum powder into the jar. Leave at least 1/3 of the jar EMPTY. 2) Tighten lid on jar and turn slowly on its side till the 2 powders are completely mixed. Thats it! You've made thermite! But that was the EASY part... the igniters are alot more complex.... PART 2: Igniters Materials needed: Finely powdered aluminum (no coarser than cake flour) Finely powdered Sulfur (no coarser than cake flour) Finely powdered Starch (yet again, not coaser than cake flour) Water Cylindrical tube about 6" in length and 3/4" inside diameter (plastic tubing you can get at any lumberyard is ideal) 3/4" rod (or slightly smaller) rod that fits inside of plasic tube 3/8" dowel rod Mixing bowl Tablespoon Teaspoon Stove or hotplate Knife Measuring container Granulated sugar (do NOT use powdered or confectionary sugar) Potassium chlorate or Sodium chlorate (no coarser than granulated sugar) Plastic Spoon Moisture proof container with tight fitting lid Rolling pin Fuse or solar igniters (solar igniters are used for ignition of model rockets and are available at most hobby shops) Preparation: 1) Place 6 tablespoons of aluminum powder in a mixing bowl then add 15 tablespoons of powdered sulfur. 2) Mix two powders together gently with spoon till no unmixed particals of sulfur are visible. 3) In a seperate pot add 2 teaspoons of laundry starch to about 6 ounces of water and boil gently for a few minutes. Stir till the starch is dissolved and allow the solution to cool to room temperature. 4) When cool, take about half the starch solution and add it to the mixture of aluminum powder and sulfur. 5) Mix with a spoon until the whole mass is a smooth, evenly mixed putty-like paste. 6) Fill the cylindrical tube with this paste, place one end of the tube on a hard surface and tamp the paste with the 3/8" rod to sqeeze out the air bubbles. 7) Push the paste out of the tube with the large rod, which just fits inside the tube, so that it forms a cylinder, then cut the damp cylinder into 1 1/2" lengths using the knife. 8) Dry these pieces at 90 degrees F. for at least 24 hours. 9) Form a hole at least 1/2" in diameter approxamately halfway into one end of and igniter pellet. 10) Fill hole to roughly 1/2 its depth with sub-igniter mix (We'll be getting to making that in a sec) 11) Insert a length of fuse (or solar igniter) into the hole so it makes contact with the sub-igniter mix. Fill the rest of the hole with sub-igniter mix and tamp down to hold fuse (or solar igniter) firmly. 12) Tape fuse (or solar igniter) firmly in place to prevent it from working loose and to prevent sub-igniter mix from spilling out of hole. 13) Tape 2 or more pellets without holes to the one with the fuse 14) Store all the pellets in a dry, closed container till useage. Sub-igniter mix preparation: 1) Using a clean, dry, plastic spoon, place granulated sugar in the container to one quarter container volume. Wipe spoon with a dry, clean cloth. 2) If the potassium chlorate or sodium chlorate is lumpy, remove all lumps by crushing with rolling pin. Using the spoon, add a quantity of chlorate equal to the amount of suagr to the container WARNING: IF THIS MIXTURE IS CARELESSLY HANDLED WITH EXCESSIVE BUMPING AND SCRAPING IT COULD IGNITE AND FRY YOUR ASS. MAKE SURE THERE ISN'T ANY ADHERING TO THE EDGE OR LIP OF THE CONTAINER BEFORE TIGHTENING THE LID!!! 3) Tighten the lid of the jar, turn jar on its side, and slowly roll till the two powders are completely mixed. The mixture is ready to use and may be stored for months in a tightly sealed container. Ok, the igniters are done (Whew! Don't worry, its all downhill from here) If you did it right, it should look something like this: -Cut-away View- ##%%""%%## ##%%""%%## # = Pellet ##%%""%%## % = Sub-igniter mix ##%%""%%## " = Fuse ##%%""%%## ##%%""%%## ##%%""%%## ##%%%%%%## ##%%%%%%## ##%%%%%%## ##%%%%%%## ###%%%%### ####%%#### ########## ########## ########## ########## ########## PART 3: Bomb Construction There's 3 types of basic devices thermite is good for: Metal welding device, Hole burning device, and Exploding incediary device. 1: Welding device Materials needed: Cardboard clyinder with metal ends (empty comet detergent box is perfect) Thermite & Igniters 1) Cut cylinder in half 2) Arrange thermite and igniters like this: - Cut away view - "" !######%%""%%#####! ! = Cardboard cylinder !######%%""%%#####! # = Thermite !######%%%%%%#####! % = Igniter cluster !######%%%%%%#####! " = Fuse !######%%%%%%#####! + = Metal end !#################! !#################! !#################! !#################! +++++++++++++++++++ Place over parts you wish to weld and ignite. Conducted heat and molten slag from the device will cause a weld. This is good for sabotaging gears, motors, electric transformers and many other uses (use your wicked imagination) Hole Burning Device 1) Cut cardboard cylinder into 2 equal parts 2) Cut one piece to a height of 2" and cut 2 air vent notches on the open end. 3) Fill other section approx. 2/3 with thermite 4) Bury an igniter cluster just under the surface of the thermite 5) Place empty piece OPEN END DOWN on the area you wish to penetrate 6) Place filled section metal end down on top of open vented piece so that metal ends of the cylinder are touching Should look like this: - Cut away view - "" !######%%""%%#####! ! = Cardboard cylinder !######%%""%%#####! # = Thermite !######%%%%%%#####! % = Igniter cluster !######%%%%%%#####! " = Fuse !######%%%%%%#####! + = Metal end !#################! !#################! !#################! !#################! +++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++++++ ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !!!!!! ! ! ! ! ! !!!!!!!! / !!!!!!! air vent notch The above device will melt a hole through 3/8" steel plate by dropping extremly hot particles of molten iron onto the metal. Its great for destroying cars (put over engine block or gas tank hehez), and lots of other stuff... Exploding incediary device Extra materials needed: Gun Powder Small glass bottle (aspirin bottle works good) 1) TIGHTLY PACK gunpowder into glass bottle. 2) Put hole large enough for fuse in lid of glass bottle. 3) Put a VERY short fuse (about 1/2") into hole 4) Build Thermite welding device as per instructions except place glass powder bottle on bottom of cardboard cylinder before filling with thermite. This device should cause a small explosion and spray molten thermite in a 5-10 foot radius (good for starting fires around flammable items). The molten thermite burns enough to light the fuse setting off the gunpowder charge in the bottle. [ ] * CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE * The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail. Rather than using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable liquid, which has at best a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical fire bottle utilizes the very hot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate. When the container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays onto the paper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar. The paper, when struck by the acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline. The chance of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced to 0%, if there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare. MATERIALS EQUIPMENT 2 teaspoons potassium chlorate 12 oz. glass bottle sugar (2 teaspoons) cap for bottle,with plastic inside concentrated sulfuric acid(4 oz.) cooking pan with raised edges gasoline (8 oz.) paper towels glass or plastic cup and spoon 1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make sure that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage. If the acid eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and tested, until a cap that the acid does not eat through is found. A glass top is excellent. 2) Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle. 3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass bottle. Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw the cap on the bottle. Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water. Set it aside to dry. 4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two teaspoons of sugar into the glass or plastic cup. Add about 1/2 cup of boiling water, or enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar. 5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges. Fold the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved potassium chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet. Allow the towel to dry. 6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle containing the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture. Wrap the paper towel around the bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all places. Store the bottle in a place where it will not be broken or tipped over. 7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two distinct liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear solution on top. The two solutions will not mix. To use the chemical fire bottle, simply throw it at any hard surface. 8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP, WHICH COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUM CHLORATE, CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION. 9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the bottle, and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The paper towel should immediately burst into a white flame. [ ] *PAPER CONTAINERS* Paper was the first container ever used for explosives, since it was first used by the Chinese to make fireworks. Paper containers are usually very simple to make, and are certainly the cheapest. There are many possible uses for paper in containing explosives, and the two most obvious are in firecrackers and rocket engines. Simply by rolling up a long sheet of paper, and gluing it together, one can make a simple rocket engine. Perhaps a more interesting and dangerous use is in the firecracker. The firecracker shown here is one of Mexican design. It is called a "polumna", meaning "dove". The process of their manufacture is not unlike that of making a paper football. If one takes a sheet of paper about 16 inches in length by 1.5 inches wide, and fold one corner so that it looks like this: ________________________________________________________ | |\ | | \ | | \ |______________________________________________________|___\ and then fold it again so that it looks like this: _______________________________________________________ | /| | / | | / | |__________________________________________________/___| A pocket is formed. This pocket can be filled with black powder, pyrodex, flash powder, gunpowder,rocket engine powder, or any of the quick-burning fuel- oxodizer mixtures that occur in the form of a fine powder. A fuse is then inserted, and one continues the triangular folds, being careful not to spill out any of the explosive. When the polumna is finished, it should be taped together very tightly, since this will increase the strength of the container, and produce a louder and more powerful explosion when it is lit. The finished polumna should look like a 1/4 inch - 1/3 inch thick triangle, like the one shown below: ^ / \ ----- securely tape all corners / \ / \ / \ / \ / \____________________________ /_____________\__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/ ---------- fuse [ ] * METAL CONTAINERS* The classic pipe bomb is the best known example of a metal-contained explosive. Idiot anarchists take white tipped matches and cut off the match heads. They pound one end of a pipe closed with a hammer, pour in the white- tipped matches, and then pound the other end closed. This process often kills the fool, since when he pounds the pipe closed, he could very easily cause enough friction between the match heads to cause them to ignite and explode the unfinished bomb. By using pipe caps, the process is somewhat safer, and the less stupid anarchist would never use white tipped matches in a bomb. He would buy two pipe caps and threaded pipe (fig. 1). First, he would drill a hole in one pipe cap, and put a fuse in it so that it will not come out, and so powder will not escape during handling. The fuse would be at least 3/4 an inch long inside the bomb. He would then screw the cap with the fuse in it on tightly, possibly putting a drop of super glue on it to hold it tight. He would then pour his explosive powder in the bomb. To pack it tightly, he would take a large wad of tissue paper and, after filling the pipe to the very top, pack the powder down, by using the paper as a ramrod tip, and pushing it with a pencil or other wide ended object, until it would not move any further. Finally, he would screw the other pipe cap on, and glue it. The tissue paper would help prevent some of the powder from being caught in the threads of the pipe or pipe cap from being crushed and subject to friction, which might ignite the powder, causing an explosion during manufacture. An assembled bomb is shown in fig. 2. _________ _______________ __________ | | ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ | | | |vvvvv| |_________________________| |vvvvvv| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | ___________________________ | | | | | | | | | |^^^^^| vvvvvv_______________vvvvvv |^^^^^^| | |_______| |________| fig 1. Threaded pipe and endcaps. ________ ________ | _____|________________________________|_____ | | |__________________________________________| | | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| | | | tissue | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |_| | | : : : |- - - low order explosive - - ---------------------- | | paper | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |-| fuse | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| | | |________|_________________________________| | | |__________________________________________| | |______| |______| endcap pipe endcap w/ hole fig. 2 Assembled pipe bomb. This is one possible design that a mad bomber would use. If, however, he did not have access to threaded pipe with endcaps, he could always use a piece of copper or aluminum pipe, since it is easily bent into a suitable position. A major problem with copper piping, however, is bending and folding it without tearing it; if too much force is used when folding and bending copper pipe, it will split along the fold. The safest method for making a pipe bomb out of copper or aluminum pipe is similar to the method with pipe and endcaps. First, one flattens one end of a copper or aluminum pipe carefully, making sure not to tear or rip the piping. Then, the flat end of the pipe should be folded over at least once, if this does not rip the pipe. A fuse hole should be drilled in the pipe near the now closed end, and the fuse should be inserted. Next, the bomb-builder would fill the bomb with a low order explosive, and pack it with a large wad of tissue paper. He would then flatten and fold the other end of the pipe with a pair of pliers. If he was not too dumb, he would do this slowly, since the process of folding and bending metal gives off heat, which could set off the explosive. A diagram is presented below: ________ _______________________________________________/ | | | | o | |______________________________________________ | \_______| fig. 1 pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled (top view) ______ ____________________________________________/ | | | | | | o | | |___________________________________________ | | \__|__| fig. 2 pipe with one end flattened and folded up (top view) ____________ fuse hole | v _________________________________________________ | \ |____ | | \____| | | ______| | / |_____________________________/__________________ fig. 3 pipe with flattened and folded end (side view) _________________ fuse / | ________ ______________________________|___ _______ | ____| / |- - - - - - - - - - -| - - \ |___ | | |_____/tissue| - - - - - - - - - - - -|- - \_____| | |________ paper |- - - low order explosive - _______| \ | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - / \_____________________________________/ fig. 4 completed bomb, showing tissue paper packing and explosive (side view) A CO2 cartridge from a B.B gun is another excellent container for a low-order explosive. It has one minor disadvantage: it is time consuming to fill. But this can be rectified by widening the opening of the cartridge with a pointed tool. Then, all that would have to be done is to fill the CO2 cartridge with any low-order explosive, or any of the fast burning fuel- oxodizer mixtures, and insert a fuse. These devices are commonly called "crater makers". A CO2 cartridge also works well as a container for a thermit incendiary device, but it must be modified. The opening in the end must be widened, so that the ignition mixture, such as powdered magnesium, does not explode. The fuse will ignite the powdered magnesium, which, in turn, would ignite the thermit. The previously mentioned designs for explosive devices are fine for low-order explosives, but are unsuitable for high-order explosives, since the latter requires a shockwave to be detonated. A design employing a smaller low-order explosive device inside a larger device containing a high-order explosive would probably be used. It would look something like: _______________________ fuse | | | _________ | _________ | ____|__________________________|___________|____ | | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * * | | | | * * * * * * high explosive | * * * * * * * | | | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * * | | | | * ______ _______________|_ ______ * | | | | * * | __| / - - - - - - | \ |__ | * | | | | * | |____/ low explosive - \____| | * | | | | * * |_______ - - - - - - - - - _______| * | | | | * * * * * \ - - - - - - - - / * * * * * | | | | * * * * * * \_________________/ * * * * * | | | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | | | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | | | | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | | | |______________________________________________| | |_______| |_______| If the large high explosive container is small, such as a CO2 cartridge, then a segment of a hollow radio antenna can be made into a low-order pipe bomb, which can be fitted with a fuse, and inserted into the CO2 cartridge. [ ] *GLASS CONTAINERS* Glass containers can be suitable for low-order explosives, but there are problems with them. First, a glass container can be broken relatively easily compared to metal or plastic containers. Secondly, in the not-too-unlikely event of an "accident", the person making the device would probably be seriously injured, even if the device was small. A bomb made out of a sample perfume bottle-sized container exploded in the hands of one boy, and he still has pieces of glass in his hand. He is also missing the final segment of his ring finger, which was cut off by a sharp piece of flying glass... Nonetheless, glass containers such as perfume bottles can be used by a demented individual, since such a device would not be detected by metal detectors in an airport or other public place. All that need be done is fill the container, and drill a hole in the plastic cap that the fuse fits tightly in, and screw the cap-fuse assembly on. ________________________ fuse | | | _____|_____ | ___|___ | | > | < | drill hole in cap, and insert fuse; | > | < | be sure fuse will not come out of cap | > | < | | | | | | | | | | screw cap on bottle | | | | V V _________ < > < > < > / \ / \ / \ | | fill bottle with low-order explosive | | | | | | | | |___________| Large explosive devices made from glass containers are not practicle, since glass is not an exceptionally strong container. Much of the explosive that is used to fill the container is wasted if the container is much larger than a 16 oz. soda bottle. Also, glass containers are usually unsuitable for high explosive devices, since a glass container would probably not withstand the explosion of the initiator; it would shatter before the high explosive was able to detonate. [ ] * PLASTIC CONTAINERS* Plastic containers are perhaps the best containers for explosives, since they can be any size or shape, and are not fragile like glass. Plastic piping can be bought at hardware or plumbing stores, and a device much like the ones used for metal containers can be made. The high-order version works well with plastic piping. If the entire device is made out of plastic, it is not detectable by metal detectors. Plastic containers can usually be shaped by heating the container, and bending it at the appropriate place. They can be glued closed with epoxy or other cement for plastics. Epoxy alone can be used as an endcap, if a wad of tissue paper is placed in the piping. Epoxy with a drying agent works best in this type of device. || || || || ||\_____________/|| || || || epoxy || ||_______________|| || || || tissue || || paper || ||_______________|| ||***************|| ||***************|| ||***************|| ||***************|| ||** explosive **|| ||***************|| ||***********----------------------- fuse ||***************|| ||DDDDDDDDDDDDDDD|| || || || tissue || || paper || ||_______________|| || || || epoxy || || _____________ || ||/ \|| || || || || One end must be made first, and be allowed to dry completely before the device can be filled with powder and fused. Then, with another piece of tissue paper, pack the powder tightly, and cover it with plenty of epoxy. PVC pipe works well for this type of device, but it cannot be used if the pipe had an inside diameter greater than 3/4 of an inch. Other plastic puttys can be used int this type of device, but epoxy with a drying agent works best. [ ] *SHAPED CHARGES* A shaped charge is an explosive device that, upon detonation, directs the explosive force of detonation at a small target area. This process can be used to breach the strongest armor, since forces of literally millions of pounds of pressure per square inch can be generated. Shaped charges employ high-order explosives, and usually electric ignition systems. KEEP IN MIND THAT ALL EXPLOSIVES ARE DANGEROUS, AND SHOULD NEVER BE MADE OR USED!! An example of a shaped charge is shown below. + wire ________ _______ - wire | | | | | | _ _________|_________|____________ ^ | ________|_________|__________ | | | | | | | | | | | \ igniter / | | | | | \_______/ | | | | | priming charge | | | | | (mercury fulminate) | | | | | ^ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | / \ | | 8 inches high | | / \ | | | | / high \ | | | | | / explosive \ | | | | | / charge \ | | | | | / \ | | | | |/ \| | | | | ^ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | ------- 1/2 inch | | | / \ | | thick steel | | | / \ | | pipe | | | / \ | | | | |/ \| | | hole for | | | | hole for | screw | | | | screw | | | | | V_______ ___________| | | |___________ ________ |______| |____________| |_____________| |______| |<------- 8 inches -------->| If a device such as this is screwed to a safe, for example, it would direct most of the explosive force at a point about 1 inch away from the opening of the pipe. The basis for shaped charges is a cone-shaped opening in the explosive material. This cone should have an angle of 45 degrees. A device such as this one could also be attached to a metal surface with a powerful electromagnet. [ ] *TUBE EXPLOSIVES* A variation on shaped charges, tube explosives can be used in ways that shaped charges cannot. If a piece of 1/2 inch plastic tubing was filled with a sensitive high explosive like R.D.X., and prepared as the plastic explosive container in section 4.44, a different sort of shaped charge could be produced; a charge that directs explosive force in a circular manner. This type of explosive could be wrapped around a column, or a doorknob, or a telephone pole. The explosion would be directed in and out, and most likely destroy whatever it was wrapped around. In an unbent state, a tube explosive would look like this: || || || || ||\____/|| || epoxy|| ||______|| || || ||tissue|| || paper|| ||______|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| || RDX || ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| || ____ || || | s| || || | q| || || | u| || || | i| || || | b| || || | b| || || |__| || ||__||__|| ||tissue|| || paper|| ||__||__|| || || || || epoxy|| || || || || _||_ || ||/ || \|| || || || || || || ||_______ + wire ______________ | |________ - wire ______________ When an assassin or terrorist wishes to use a tube bomb, he must wrap it around whatever thing he wishes to destroy, and epoxy the ends of the tube bomb together. After it dries, he/she can connect wires to the squib wires, and detonate the bomb, with any method of electric detonation. [ ] *ATOMIZED PARTICLE EXPLOSIONS* If a highly flammable substance is atomized, or, divided into very small particles, and large amounts of it is burned in a confined area, an explosion similar to that occurring in the cylinder of an automobile is produced. The tiny droplets of gasoline burn in the air, and the hot gasses expand rapidly, pushing the cylinder up. Similarly, if a gallon of gasoline was atomized and ignited in a building, it is very possible that the expanding gassed would push the walls of the building down. This phenomenon is called an atomized particle explosion. If a person can effectively atomize a large amount of a highly flammable substance and ignite it, he could bring down a large building, bridge, or other structure. Atomizing a large amount of gasoline, for example, can be extremely difficult, unless one has the aid of a high explosive. If a gallon jug of gasoline was placed directly over a high explosive charge, and the charge was detonated, the gasoline would instantly be atomized and ignited. If this occurred in a building, for example, an atomized particle explosion would surely occur. Only a small amount of high explosive would be necessary to accomplish this feat, about 1/2 a pound of T.N.T. or 1/4 a pound of R.D.X. Also, instead of gasoline, powdered aluminum could be used. It is necessary that a high explosive be used to atomize a flammable material, since a low-order explosion does not occur quickly enough to atomize or ignite the flammable material. [ ] *BOW AND CROSSBOW AMMUNITION* Bows and crossbows both fire arrows or bolts as ammunition. It is extremely simple to poison an arrow or bolt, but it is a more difficult matter to produce explosive arrows or bolts. If, however, one can acquire aluminum piping that is the same diameter of an arrow or crossbow bolt, the entire segment of piping can be converted into an explosive device that detonates upon impact, or with a fuse. All that need be done is find an aluminum tube of the right length and diameter, and plug the back end with tissue paper and epoxy. Fill the tube with any type of low-order explosive or sensitive high- order explosive up to about 1/2 an inch from the top. Cut a slot in the piece of tubing, and carefully squeeze the top of the tube into a round point, making sure to leave a small hole. Place a no. 11 percussion cap over the hole, and secure it with super glue. Finally, wrap the end of the device with electrical or duct tape, and make fins out of tape. Or, fins can be bought at a sporting goods store, and glued to the shaft. The finished product should look like: _____ | | ---------- no. 11 percussion cap ||*|| |*| |*| |*| |*| |*| |*| ----------- aluminum piping |*| |e| |x| |p| |l| |o| |s| |i| |v| |e| |*| |*| |*| |*| |*| |*| |*| /|_|\ / |t| \ | |p| | | |_| | | |e| | -------- fins | |p| | | |y| | |_|_|_| |_| tp: tissue paper epy: epoxy When the arrow or bolt strikes a hard surface, the percussion cap explodes, igniting or detonating the explosive. [ ] *SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR BLOWGUNS* The blowgun is an interesting weapon which has several advantages. A blowgun can be extremely accurate, concealable, and deliver an explosive or poisoned projectile. The manufacture of an explosive dart or projectile is not difficult. Perhaps the most simple design for such involves the use of a pill capsule, such as the kind that are taken for headaches or allergies. Such a capsule could easily be opened, and the medicine removed. Next, the capsule would be re-filled with an impact-sensitive explosive. An additional high explosive charge could be placed behind the impact-sensitive explosive, if one of the larger capsules were used. Finally, the explosive capsule would be reglued back together, and a tassel or cotton would be glued to the end containing the high explosive, to insure that the impact-detonating explosive struck the target first. Such a device would probably be about 3/4 of an inch long, not including the tassel or cotton, and look something like this: ____________________ /mercury | \----------------------- (fulminate| R.D.X. )---------------------- } tassels \________|___________/----------------------- [ ] *SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR WRISTROCKETS AND SLINGSHOTS* A modern wristrocket is a formidable weapon. It can throw a shooter marble about 500 ft. with reasonable accuracy. Inside of 200 ft., it could well be lethal to a man or animal, if it struck in a vital area. Because of the relatively large sized projectile that can be used in a wristrocket, the wristrocket can be adapted to throw relatively powerful explosive projectiles. A small segment of aluminum pipe could be made into an impact-detonating device by filling it with an impact-sensitive explosive material. Also, such a pipe could be filled with a low-order explosive, and fitted with a fuse, which would be lit before the device was shot. One would have to make sure that the fuse was of sufficient length to insure that the device did not explode before it reached its intended target. Finally, .22 caliber caps, such as the kind that are used in .22 caliber blank guns, make excellent exploding ammunition for wristrockets, but they must be used at a relatively close range, because of their light weight. [ ] *SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR SHOTGUNS* Because of their large bore and high power, it is possible to create some extremely powerful special ammunition for use in shotguns. If a shotgun shell is opened at the top, and the shot removed, the shell can be re-closed. Then, if one can find a very smooth, lightweight wooden dowel that is close to the bore width of the shotgun, a person can make several types of shotgun- launched weapons. Insert the dowel in the barrel of the shotgun with the shell without the shot in the firing chamber. Mark the dowel about six inches away from the end of the barrel, and remove it from the barrel. Next, decide what type of explosive or incendiary device is to be used. This device can be a chemical fire bottle (sect. 3.43), a pipe bomb (sect 4.42), or a thermit bomb (sect 3.41 and 4.42). After the device is made, it must be securely attached to the dowel. When this is done, place the dowel back in the shotgun. The bomb or incendiary device should be on the end of the dowel. Make sure that the device has a long enough fuse, light the fuse, and fire the shotgun. If the projectile is not too heavy, ranges of up to 300 ft are possible. A diagram of a shotgun projectile is shown below: ____ || | || | || | ----- bomb, securely taped to dowel || | ||__| || | || | ------- fuse || | || || || || --------- dowel || || || || || || --------- insert this end into shotgun [ ] Shotgun shell bomb These little goodies are affectionately known as "nut busters." They are simply shotgun shells enclosed in cardboard rolls with cardboard fins put on. On the primer end of the shell is glued a small cork with a hole drilled through it. A roofing nail fits in the hole snugly enough to stay in, but loose enough to plunge into the primer upon impact. Since the shell is not confined in the chamber of the gun, it will naturally not cause the same amount of damage. But if it goes off between a fellow's legs he can look forward to becoming a soprano. These bombs are thrown singly or by the handful into the air over milling crowds. The weight of the shell and stabilization by the fins causes the nut buster to head straight downward. It has tremendous effect as its presence is usually a suprise. The threat of more coming is guaranteed to route any mob. Not only does it go off on the pavement but it will also explode on contact with a person's head or shoulder. At night it is impossible to trace its point of origin. ----- ! % /> ! % /- Cork Fins ! ! v --------------------!% ! % ! !-----! ! % ! ! %> !------ ! ! !---! <-- Roofing nail ! ! !-----! ! / ! % --------------------!/ % ! ! ^ %-> ! / ^ % ! / ! % ----- ! Shell ! ! Close fitting 3-1/2 inch Aluminum Tubing Glued on Shell. SHOTGUN SHELL BOMB A clever use for a plain shotgun shell is as a muffler bomb. The shell is simply shoved up a car's exhaust pipe with a length of stiff wire until it drops into the muffler. After a few minutes on the road the shell explodes, totalling out the muffler and treating the driver to a sick kind of panic. [ ] *SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR B.B GUNS* A B.B gun, for this manuscript, will be considered any type of rifle or pistol that uses compressed air or CO2 gas to fire a projectile with a caliber of .177, either B.B, or lead pellet. Such guns can have almost as high a muzzle velocity as a bullet-firing rifle. Because of the speed at which a .177 caliber projectile flies, an impact detonating projectile can easily be made that has a caliber of .177. Most ammunition for guns of greater than .22 caliber use primers to ignite the powder in the bullet. These primers can be bought at gun stores, since many people like to reload their own bullets. Such primers detonate when struck by the firing pin of a gun. They will also detonate if they are thrown at a hard surface at a great speed. Usually, they will also fit in the barrel of a .177 caliber gun. If they are inserted flat end first, they will detonate when the gun is fired at a hard surface. If such a primer is attached to a piece of thin metal tubing, such as that used in an antenna, the tube can be filled with an explosive, be sealed, and fired from a B.B gun. A diagram of such a projectile appears below: _____ primers _______ | | | | | | V V ______ ______ | ________________________ |------------------- | ****** explosive ******* |------------------- } tassel or | ________________________ |------------------- cotton |_____ _____|------------------- ^ | | |_______ antenna tubing The front primer is attached to the tubing with a drop of super glue. The tubing is then filled with an explosive, and the rear primer is glued on. Finally, a tassel, or a small piece of cotton is glued to the rear primer, to insure that the projectile strikes on the front primer. The entire projectile should be about 3/4 of an inch long. [ ] *SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR .22 CALIBER PELLET GUNS* A .22 caliber pellet gun usually is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle, at close ranges. Because of this, relatively large explosive projectiles can be adapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles. A design similar to that used in section 5.12 is suitable, since some capsules are about .22 caliber or smaller. Or, a design similar to that in section 5.31 could be used, only one would have to purchase black powder percussion caps, instead of ammunition primers, since there are percussion caps that are about .22 caliber. A #11 cap is too small, but anything larger will do nicely. [ ] *ROCKETS* Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred years before Christ. They were used for entertainment, in the form of fireworks. They were not usually used for military purposes because they were inaccurate, expensive, and unpredictable. In modern times, however, rockets are used constantly by the military, since they are cheap, reliable, and have no recoil. Perpetrators of violence, fortunately, cannot obtain military rockets, but they can make or buy rocket engines. Model rocketry is a popular hobby of the space age, and to launch a rocket, an engine is required. Estes, a subsidiary of Damon, is the leading manufacturer of model rockets and rocket engines. Their most powerful engine, the "D" engine, can develop almost 12 lbs. of thrust; enough to send a relatively large explosive charge a significant distance. Other companies, such as Centuri, produce even larger rocket engines, which develop up to 30 lbs. of thrust. These model rocket engines are quite reliable, and are designed to be fired electrically. Most model rocket engines have three basic sections. The diagram below will help explain them. __________________________________________________________ |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard \ clay | - - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|c| casing \_______| - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . |l| ______ _ - - - thrust - - - | smoke | eject |a| / clay | - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|y| /________|_____________________|_______|________|_|_______ |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard casing The clay nozzle is where the igniter is inserted. When the area labeled "thrust" is ignited, the "thrust" material, usually a large single grain of a propellant such as black powder or pyrodex, burns, forcing large volumes of hot, rapidly expanding gasses out the narrow nozzle, pushing the rocket forward. After the material has been consumed, the smoke section of the engine is ignited. It is usually a slow-burning material, similar to black powder that has had various compounds added to it to produce visible smoke, usually black, white, or yellow in color. This section exists so that the rocket will be seen when it reaches its maximum altitude, or apogee. When it is burned up, it ignites the ejection charge, labeled "eject". The ejection charge is finely powdered black powder. It burns very rapidly, exploding, in effect. The explosion of the ejection charge pushes out the parachute of the model rocket. It could also be used to ignite the fuse of a bomb... Rocket engines have their own peculiar labeling system. Typical engine labels are: 1/4A-2T, 1/2A-3T, A8-3, B6-4, C6-7, and D12-5. The letter is an indicator of the power of an engine. "B" engines are twice as powerful as "A" engines, and "C" engines are twice as powerful as "B" engines, and so on. The number following the letter is the approximate thrust of the engine, in pounds. the final number and letter is the time delay, from the time that the thrust period of engine burn ends until the ejection charge fires; "3T" indicates a 3 second delay. NOTE: an extremely effective rocket propellant can be made by mixing aluminum dust with ammonium perchlorate and a very small amount of iron oxide. The mixture is bound together by an epoxy. [ ] *Rocket Bomb* A rocket bomb is simply what the name implies: a bomb that is delivered to its target by means of a rocket. Most people who would make such a device would use a model rocket engine to power the device. By cutting fins from balsa wood and gluing them to a large rocket engine, such as the Estes "C" engine, a basic rocket could be constructed. Then, by attaching a "crater maker", or CO2 cartridge bomb to the rocket, a bomb would be added. To insure that the fuse of the "crater maker" (see sect. 4.42) ignited, the clay over the ejection charge of the engine should be scraped off with a plastic tool. The fuse of the bomb should be touching the ejection charge, as shown below. ____________ rocket engine | _________ crater maker | | | | V | _______________________________V_ |_______________________________| ______________________ \ | - - - - - -|***|::::| /# # # # # # # # # # # \ \__| - - - - - -|***|::::| ___/ # # # # # # # # # # # \ __ - - - - - -|***|::::|---fuse--- # # explosive # # ) / | - - - - - -|***|::::| ___ # # # # # # # # # # # / /___|____________|___|____|____ \_______________________/ |_______________________________| thrust> - - - - - - smoke> *** ejection charge> :::: Duct tape is the best way to attach the crater maker to the rocket engine. Note in the diagram the absence of the clay over the ejection charge Many different types of explosive payloads can be attached to the rocket, such as a high explosive, an incendiary device, or a chemical fire bottle. Either four or three fins must be glued to the rocket engine to insure that the rocket flies straight. The fins should look like the following diagram: |\ | \ | \ | \ <--------- glue this to rocket engine | \ | \ | \ | | | | | | leading edge | -------> | | | | | trailing edge | | <-------- | | | | | | | | \_____/ The leading edge and trailing edge should be sanded with sandpaper so that they are rounded. This will help make the rocket fly straight. A two inch long section of a plastic straw can be attached to the rocket to launch it from. A clothes hanger can be cut and made into a launch rod. The segment of a plastic straw should be glued to the rocket engine adjacent to one of the fins of the rocket. A front view of a completed rocket bomb is shown below. | fin | <------ fin | | | | | | | __|__ | V / \ V ---------------| |--------------- \_____/ |o <----------- segment of plastic straw | | | <------ fin | | By cutting a coat hanger at the indicated arrows, and bending it, a launch rod can be made. After a fuse is inserted in the engine, the rocket is simply slid down the launch rod, which is put through the segment of plastic straw. The rocket should slide easily along a coathanger, such as the one illustated on the following page: ____ / \ | | cut here _____ | | | | | | / \ V / \ _________________/ \________________ / \ / \ /____________________________________________\ ^ | | and here ______| Bend wire to this shape: _______ insert into straw | | | V ____________________________________________ \ \ \ \ \ <--------- bend here to adjust flight angle | | | | | | <---------- put this end in ground | [ ] *Rocket Bomb - (Long Range)* Long range rockets can be made by using multi-stage rockets. Model rocket engines with an "0" for a time delay are designed for use in multi- stage rockets. An engine such as the D12-0 is an excellent example of such an engine. Immediately after the thrust period is over, the ejection charge explodes. If another engine is placed directly against the back of an "0" engine, the explosion of the ejection charge will send hot gasses and burning particles into the nozzle of the engine above it, and ignite the thrust section. This will push the used "0" engine off of the rocket, causing an overall loss of weight. The main advantage of a multi-stage rocket is that it loses weight as travels, and it gains velocity. A multi-stage rocket must be designed somewhat differently than a single stage rocket, since, in order for a rocket to fly straight, its center of gravity must be ahead of its center of drag. This is accomplished by adding weight to the front of the rocket, or by moving the center of drag back by putting fins on the rocket that are well behind the rocket. A diagram of a multi-stage rocket appears on the following page: ___ / \ | | | C | | M | ------ CM: Crater Maker | | | | |___| | | | | | | | C | ------ C6-5 rocket engine /| 6 |\ / | | | \ / | 5 | \ / |___| \ ---- fin / /| |\ \ / / | | \ \ / / | | \ \ / / | C | \ \ | / | 6 | \ | | / | | | \ | | / | 0 | \ | |/ |___| \| | / \ | \______/ ^ \______/ ------- fin | | | | C6-0 rocket engine The fuse is put in the bottom engine. Two, three, or even four stages can be added to a rocket bomb to give it a longer range. It is important, however, that for each additional stage, the fin area gets larger. [ ] *Rocket Bombs - (Multiple Warheads)* "M.R.V." is an acronym for Multiple Reentry Vehicle. The concept is simple: put more than one explosive warhead on a single missile. This can be done without too much difficulty by anyone who knows how to make crater-makers and can buy rocket engines. By attaching crater makers with long fuses to a rocket, it is possible that a single rocket could deliver several explosive devices to a target. Such a rocket might look like the diagram on the following page: ___ / \ | | | C | | M | |___| ___| |___ | | | | | | T | | / \ | U | / \ / \| B |/ \ | || E || | | C || || C | | M || || M | | ||___|| | \___/| E |\___/ | N | /| G |\ / | I | \ / | N | \ / | E | \ / |___| \ / fin/ | \ fin\ | / | \ | \__/ | \__/ ^ |____ fin The crater makers are attached to the tube of rolled paper with tape. the paper tube is made by rolling and gluing a 4 inch by 8 inch piece of paper. The tube is glued to the engine, and is filled with gunpowder or black powder. Small holes are punched in it, and the fuses of the crater makers are inserted in these holes. A crater maker is glued to the open end of the tube, so that its fuse is inside the tube. A fuse is inserted in the engine, or in the bottom engine if the rocket bomb is multi stage, and the rocket is launched from the coathanger launcher, if a segment of a plastic straw has been attached to it. [ ] *Cannon* The cannon is a piece of artillery that has been in use since the 11th century. It is not unlike a musket, in that it is filled with powder, loaded, and fired. Cannons of this sort must also be cleaned after each shot, otherwise, the projectile may jam in the barrel when it is fired, causing the barrel to explode. A sociopath could build a cannon without too much trouble, if he/she had a little bit of money, and some patience. [ ] *Pipe Cannon* A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost anyone. The only difficult part is finding a pipe that is extremely smooth on its interior. This is absolutely necessary; otherwise, the projectile may jam. Copper or aluminum piping is usually smooth enough, but it must also be extremely thick to withstand the pressure developed by the expanding hot gasses in a cannon. If one uses a projectile such as a CO2 cartridge, since such a projectile can be made to explode, a pipe that is about 1.5 - 2 feet long is ideal. Such a pipe MUST have walls that are at least 1/3 to 1/2 an inch thick, and be very smooth on the interior. If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe. Otherwise, the pipe must be crimped and folded closed, without cracking or tearing the pipe. A small hole is drilled in the back of the pipe near the crimp or endplug. Then, all that need be done is fill the pipe with about two teaspoons of grade blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it lightly by ramming a wad of tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO2 cartridge. Brace the cannon securely against a strong structure, light the fuse, and run. If the person is lucky, he will not have overcharged the cannon, and he will not be hit by pieces of exploding barrel. Such a cannon would look like this: __________________ fuse hole | | V ________________________________________________________________ | |______________________________________________________________| |endplug|powder|t.p.| CO2 cartridge | ______|______|____|____________________________________________ |_|______________________________________________________________| An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a CO2 cartridge. It is relatively simple to do. Just make a crater maker, and construct it such that the fuse projects about an inch from the end of the cartridge. Then, wrap the fuse with duct tape, covering it entirely, except for a small amount at the end. Put this in the pipe cannon without using a tissue paper packing wad. When the cannon is fired, it will ignite the end of the fuse, and shoot the CO2 cartridge. The explosive-filled cartridge will explode in about three seconds, if all goes well. Such a projectile would look like this: ___ / \ | | | C | | M | | | | | |\ /| | | | ---- tape |_|_| | | ------ fuse [ ] *Rocket Firing Cannon* A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a normal cannon; the only difference is the ammunition. A rocket fired from a cannon will fly further than a rocket alone, since the action of shooting it overcomes the initial inertia. A rocket that is launched when it is moving will go further than one that is launched when it is stationary. Such a rocket would resemble a normal rocket bomb, except it would have no fins. It would look like this: ___ / \ | | | C | | M | | | | | |___| | E | | N | | G | | I | | N | | E | |___| the fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short, but it would not be ignited until the rocket's ejection charge exploded. Thus, the delay before the ejection charge, in effect, becomes the delay before the bomb explodes. Note that no fuse need be put in the rocket; the burning powder in the cannon will ignite it, and simultaneously push the rocket out of the cannon at a high velocity. [ ] *HOME-BREW BLAST CANON* Materials: ---> 1 plastic drain pipe, 3 feet long, at least 3 1/2 inches in diameter ---> 1 smaller plastic pipe, about 6 inches long, 2 inches in diameter ---> 1 large lighter, w/ fluid refills (this gobbles it up) ---> 1 pipe cap to fit the large pipe, 1 pipe cap to fit the smaller pipe ---> 5 feet of bell wire ---> 1 SPST rocker switch ---> 1 6v polaroid potapulse battery ---> 1 5v relay (get this at radio shack) ---> electrical tape ---> one free afternoon Procedure: 1. cut the bell wire into 3 equal pieces, and strip the ends 2. cut a hole in the side of the large pipe, the same diameter as the small pipe; thread the hole and one end of the small pipe. They should screw together easily. 3. take a piece of scrap metal, and bend it into an "L" shape, then attach it to the lever on the lighter like so: /----------- gas switch is here ________ V / \__-----\ ! lighter ! ! <--- metal lever ! ! ! ! ! Now, every time you pull the "trigger", gas should flow freely from the lighter; you may need to enlarge the "gas port" on the lighter, if you wish to be able to fire more rapidly. 4. connect 2 wires to the two posts on the switch 5. cut to holes in the side of the smaller tube, one for the switch on the bottom, and one for the metal piece on top; then mount the switch in the bottom, running the wires up and out the top; mount the lighter/trigger in the top; now the switch should rock easily, and the trigger should cause the lighter to pour out gas. Re-screw the smaller tube into the larger one, hold own the trigger a bit, let it go, and throw a match in there; if all goes well, you should get a nice big "THUD!" 6. get hold of the relay, and take off the top: 1 ----------+ V _/ 2 --------/ <---- the center object is the metal ^ finger inside the relay 3 ----------+ CC OO -------- 4 II LL -------- 5 Connect (1) to one of the wires comming from the switch; connect (2) to (4), and connect (5) to one side of the battery; connect the remaining wire from the switch to the other side of the battery; now you should be able to get the relay to make a little "buzzing" sound when you flip the switch and you should see some tiny little sparks. 7. now, carefully mount the relay on the inside of the large pipe, towards the back; screw on the smaller pipe; tape the battery to the side of the canon barrel (yes, but looks arent everything) 8. you should now be able to let a little gas into the barrel and set it off by flipping the switch. 9. put the cap on the back end of the large pipe VERY SECURELY. You are now ready for the first trial-run. To Test: Put something very very large into the barrel, just so that in fits "just right". Now, find a strong guy (the recoil will probably knock you over if you arent careful). Put on a shoulder pad, and earmuffs, and possibly some other protective clothing. Hold the trigger down for 30 seconds, hold on tight, and hit the switch. With luck and the proper adjustments, you should be able to put a frozen orange through 1/4 plywood at 25 feet. Have phun! [ ] *TEAR GAS* A terrorist who could make tear gas or some similar compound could use it with ease against a large number of people. Tear gas is fairly complicated to make, however, and this prevents such individuals from being able to utilize its great potential for harm. One method for its preparation is shown below. EQUIPMENT 1. ring stands (2) 2. alcohol burner 3. erlenmeyer flask, 300 ml 4. clamps (2) 5. rubber stopper 6. glass tubing 7. clamp holder 8. condenser 9. rubber tubing 10. collecting flask 11. air trap 12. beaker, 300 ml MATERIALS 10 gms glycerine 2 gms sodium bisulfate distilled water 1.) In an open area, wearing a gas mask, mix 10 gms of glycerine with 2 gms of sodium bisulfate in the 300 ml erlenmeyer flask. 2.) Light the alcohol burner, and gently heat the flask. 3.) The mixture will begin to bubble and froth; these bubbles are tear gas. 4.) When the mixture being heated ceases to froth and generate gas, or a brown residue becomes visible in the tube, the reaction is complete. Remove the heat source, and dispose of the heated mixture, as it is corrosive. 5.) The material that condenses in the condenser and drips into the collecting flask is tear gas. It must be capped tightly, and stored in a safe place. [ ] *FIRECRACKERS* A simple firecracker can be made from cardboard tubing and epoxy. The instructions are below: 1) Cut a small piece of cardboard tubing from the tube you are using. "Small" means anything less than 4 times the diameter of the tube. 2) Set the section of tubing down on a piece of wax paper, and fill it with epoxy and the drying agent to a height of 3/4 the diameter of the tubing. Allow the epoxy to dry to maximum hardness, as specified on the package. 3) When it is dry, put a small hole in the middle of the tube, and insert a desired length of fuse. 4) Fill the tube with any type of flame-sensitive explosive. Flash powder, pyrodex, black powder, potassium picrate, lead azide, nitrocellulose, or any of the fast burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures will do nicely. Fill the tube almost to the top. 5) Pack the explosive tightly in the tube with a wad of tissue paper and a pencil or other suitable ramrod. Be sure to leave enough space for more epoxy. 6) Fill the remainder of the tube with the epoxy and hardener, and allow it to dry. 7) For those who wish to make spectacular firecrackers, always use flash powder, mixed with a small amount of other material for colors. By crushing the material on a sparkler, and adding it to the flash powder, the explosion will be the same color as the sparkler. By adding small chunks of sparkler material, the device will throw out colored burning sparks, of the same color as the sparkler. By adding powdered iron, orange sparks will be produced. White sparks can be produced from magnesium shavings, or from small, LIGHTLY crumpled balls of aluminum foil. Example: Suppose I wish to make a firecracker that will explode with a red flash, and throw out white sparks. First, I would take a road flare, and finely powder the material inside it. Or, I could take a red sparkler, and finely powder it. Then, I would mix a small amount of this material with the flash powder. (NOTE: FLASH POWDER MAY REACT WITH SOME MATERIALS THAT IT IS MIXED WITH, AND EXPLODE SPONTANEOUSLY!) I would mix it in a ratio of 9 parts flash powder to 1 part of flare or sparkler material, and add about 15 small balls of aluminum foil I would store the material in a plastic bag overnight outside of the house, to make sure that the stuff doesn't react. Then, in the morning, I would test a small amount of it, and if it was satisfactory, I would put it in the firecracker. 8) If this type of firecracker is mounted on a rocket engine, professional to semi-professional displays can be produced. [ ] *SKYROCKETS* An impressive home made skyrocket can easily be made in the home from model rocket engines. Estes engines are recommended. 1) Buy an Estes Model Rocket Engine of the desired size, remembering that the power doubles with each letter. (See sect. 6.1 for details) 2) Either buy a section of body tube for model rockets that exactly fits the engine, or make a tube from several thicknesses of paper and glue. 3) Scrape out the clay backing on the back of the engine, so that the powder is exposed. Glue the tube to the engine, so that the tube covers at least half the engine. Pour a small charge of flash powder in the tube, about 1/2 an inch. 4) By adding materials as detailed in the section on firecrackers, various types of effects can be produced. 5) By putting Jumping Jacks or bottle rockets without the stick in the tube, spectacular displays with moving fireballs or M.R.V.'s can be produced. 6) Finally, by mounting many home made firecrackers on the tube with the fuses in the tube, multiple colored bursts can be made. [ ] *ROMAN CANDLES* Roman candles are impressive to watch. They are relatively difficult to make, compared to the other types of home-made fireworks, but they are well worth the trouble. 1) Buy a 1/2 inch thick model rocket body tube, and reinforce it with several layers of paper and/or masking tape. This must be done to prevent the tube from exploding. Cut the tube into about 10 inch lengths. 2) Put the tube on a sheet of wax paper, and seal one end with epoxy and the drying agent. About 1/2 of an inch is sufficient. 3) Put a hole in the tube just above the bottom layer of epoxy, and insert a desired length of water proof fuse. Make sure that the fuse fits tightly. 4) Pour about 1 inch of pyrodex or gunpowder down the open end of the tube. 5) Make a ball by powdering about two 6 inch sparklers of the desired color. Mix this powder with a small amount of flash powder and a small amount of pyrodex, to have a final ratio (by volume) of 60% sparkler material / 20% flash powder / 20% pyrodex. After mixing the powders well, add water, one drop at a time, and mixing continuously, until a damp paste is formed. This paste should be moldable by hand, and should retain its shape when left alone. Make a ball out of the paste that just fits into the tube. Allow the ball to dry. 6) When it is dry, drop the ball down the tube. It should slide down fairly easily. Put a small wad of tissue paper in the tube, and pack it gently against the ball with a pencil. 7) When ready to use, put the candle in a hole in the ground, pointed in a safe direction, light the fuse, and run. If the device works, a colored fireball should shoot out of the tube to a height of about 30 feet. This height can be increased by adding a slightly larger powder charge in step 4, or by using a slightly longer tube. 8) If the ball does not ignite, add slightly more pyrodex in step 5. 9) The balls made for roman candles also function very well in rockets, producing an effect of falling colored fireballs. [ ] *LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND MORE INFORMATION* COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS WHAT COMPANY SELLS FULL AUTO CO. INC. EXPLOSIVE RECIPES, P.O. BOX 1881 PAPER TUBING MURFREESBORO, TN 37133 _____________________________________________________________________________ __ UNLIMITED CHEMICALS AND FUSE BOX 1378-SN HERMISTON, OREGON 97838 _____________________________________________________________________________ __ AMERICAN FIREWORKS NEWS FIREWORKS NEWS MAGAZINE WITH SR BOX 30 SOURCES AND TECHNIQUES DINGMAN'S FERRY, PENNSYLVANIA 18328 _____________________________________________________________________________ __ BARNETT INTERNATIONAL INC. BOWS, CROSSBOWS, ARCHERY MATERIALS, 125 RUNNELS STREET AIR RIFLES P.O. BOX 226 PORT HURON, MICHIGAN 48060 _____________________________________________________________________________ __ CROSSMAN AIR GUNS AIR GUNS P.O. BOX 22927 ROCHESTER, NEW YORK 14692 _____________________________________________________________________________ __ EXECUTIVE PROTECTION PRODUCTS INC. TEAR GAS GRENADES, 316 CALIFORNIA AVE. PROTECTION DEVICES RENO, NEVADA 89509 _____________________________________________________________________________ __ BADGER FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS BOX 1451 JANESVILLE, WISCONSIN 53547 _____________________________________________________________________________ __ NEW ENGLAND FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "C" FIREWORKS P.O. BOX 3504 STAMFORD, CONNECTICUTT 06095 _____________________________________________________________________________ __ RAINBOW TRAIL CLASS "C" FIREWORKS BOX 581 EDGEMONT, PENNSYLVANIA 19028 _____________________________________________________________________________ __ STONINGTON FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS 4010 NEW WILSEY BAY U.25 ROAD RAPID RIVER, MICHIGAN 49878 _____________________________________________________________________________ __ WINDY CITY FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS P.O. BOX 11 (GOOD PRICES!) ROCHESTER, INDIANNA 46975 _____________________________________________________________________________ __ BOOKS THE ANARCHIST'S COOKBOOK THE IMPROVISED MUNITIONS MANUAL MILITARY EXPLOSIVES FIRES AND EXPLOSIONS [ ] *CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS* In the end, the serious terrorist would probably realize that if he/she wishes to make a truly useful explosive, he or she will have to steal the chemicals to make the explosive from a lab. A list of such chemicals in order of priority would probably resemble the following: LIQUIDS SOLIDS Nitric Acid Potassium Perchlorate Sulfuric Acid Potassium Chlorate 95% Ethanol Picric Acid (usually a powder) Toluene Ammonium Nitrate Perchloric Acid Powdered Magnesium Hydrochloric Acid Powdered Aluminum Potassium Permanganate Sulfur Mercury Potassium Nitrate Potassium Hydroxide Phosphorus Sodium Azide Lead Acetate Barium Nitrate [ ] *USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY* In general, it is possible to make many chemicals from just a few basic ones. A list of useful chemical reactions is presented. It assumes knowledge of general chemistry; any individual who does not understand the following reactions would merely have to read the first five chapters of a high school chemistry book. 1. potassium perchlorate from perchloric acid and potassium hydroxide K(OH) + HClO ----> KClO + H O 4 4 2 2. potassium nitrate from nitric acid and potassium hydroxide " + HNO ----> KNO + " 3 3 3. ammonium perchlorate from perchloric acid and ammonium hydroxide NH OH + HClO ----> NH ClO + " 3 4 3 4 4. ammonium nitrate from nitric acid and ammonium hydroxide NH OH + HNO ----> NH NO + " 3 3 3 3 5. powdered aluminum from acids, aluminum foil, and magnesium A. aluminum foil + 6HCl ----> 2AlCl + 3H 3 2 B. 2AlCl (aq) + 3Mg ----> 3MgCl (aq) + 2Al 3 2 The Al will be a very fine silvery powder at the bottom of the container which must be filtered and dried. This same method works with nitric and sulfuric acids, but these acids are too valuable in the production of high explosives to use for such a purpose, unless they are available in great excess. [ ] *ways to Torture a Cat* Many times I have wanted to beat the shit out of that furry little bastard that always seems to piss me off. Either by taking a nice warm shit on my brand new carpet, or decided to use me as a clawing device. I'd like to suggest ways to hurt or piss off the little shithead that you can't get rid of, usually cause you're mom thinks it's the nicest fucker alive. 1 -- Kick it Around, you know, when the fucker get's in your way, whether it be when you're taking a shit and it comes in and watches, or when you're sleeping and it sits on your face. Just put a little force into it and BLAM! The fucker goes flying. It's especially nice to watch a cat go flying on a wood floor, with all four spread, doing 360's and crying like a Mexican without his burrito. Kicking him from under (like under the stomach) let's loose a flying cat, spinning and twirling in the air. 2 -- Tail tricks....This is the fun part...Seeing the cat can't really get to it's tail, you can do shit with it and the cat it defenseless. Try tying the cat's tail to his front paw, cause everyone time it walks, it's tail get's pulled, looks like some diseased person trying to walk. Or even better, get a nice grab of the tail, and start spinning the cat around using it, the cat will have to take the pain, cause by force of nature, it can't reach it's paws around to scratch you since it's spinning so fast it's paws are spread-eagle like. If you have glue, and the cat's tail is long enough, or maybe just a tad shorter, you can glue it's tail to it's nose, which is cool. The cat moves his head and his ass comes up with it (how'z that for a chain reaction?) Like it'll be walking around town with it's ass all dangling up, all the other furry fucks will ram it up, which in turn, will make the cat freak when it tries to sit down (get it?). But that's kinda mean. 3 -- whiskers (heh, heh, heh)....Ok, you know who you are people, you kind that clips cat's whiskers and laughs like hell. Cat's use whiskers to navigate in the dark, like when they're entering a tight spot, their whiskers will tell them if they're about to run into something (kind of like those cadillacs with those metal tubes sticking out the side). So what do you do? You cut the fuckers whiskers, down to you start getting fur. Then you gotta through the cat in a closet, and open the door, oh, about 4 inches. The cat will naturally be fucked and stunned that us humans would do such a thing (it probably is equlivant of a cat cutting off your dick) and he'll start bumping around, wondering what the fuck....So you just sit there and laugh your ass off. The cat might eventually make it's way out of the closet, but maybe you could, hmmm... 4 -- Pillow Case....Well, this is kind of funny...All you do is throw the little fuck in a pillow case, and go into an open room (you don't want to beat it to death, well, not yet atleast). And start swinging the fucker around in circles, again and again, the cat will probably be crying for it's life (but don't give in to it's whining, cause when it get's out, it wants blood) keep swinging it around and around, faster and faster, stop when you're too dizzy to figure out where the cat is, then quickly open the pillow case and let the bastard fall out (it WILL fall, believe me). You got to make sure you can see it (cause you're gonna be almost as dizzy). The fucker will be sitting there, moving it's head in circles, still thinking its spinning. This is the good part, cause as far as the cat knows, it's totally high on Catnip or something. You can do anything, it's up to you. 4 -- Water ...We all know that cats hate water more than dogs, and would rather travel in a car then deal with it. But cat's are funny as hell in water. Try filling up a tub, or a sink, or something with water in it that the cat will fit in. Throw the fucker in for a minute or two (unless it's definitely going to drown, we'll talk about killing them later) and watch it squeal..They act like water is acid or something and yet they still drink water out of the toilet when none is available (these fuckers gotta get their facts straight). After the cat has had enough torture, grab it by the ear, or tail, or get a good grab around it's head and throw it out (throw it outside you fool). When a cat get's wet (especially a long-haired cat) they look like giant ferrets, really nasty like (which might persuade you to do something else, like nail it to a 2 by 4 and shoot it full of b-b's) but don't hurt it too bad.. 5 -- Misc. shit....Stick the cat in the Microwave (no, really) and don't turn it on (yet) just let it sit there, and look through the little see-through window...It should be scared as hell, since it's in a really tight spot, can't move much at all...If you really want to screw the fucker, nuke it! Just nuke it for 20 seconds at a time...The cat will start squirming at about 10 seconds (depending on the wattage of the Microwave)...After about 30 seconds, the cat will definitely have radiation poisioning, which will probably kill it within a month or less. If you nuke it for a minute, you'll probably kill it, depending on the size of the cat, the microwave cooks inside out, so after a minute, it's intestines and lungs will be a little toasty, maybe killing it, if not, probably sterilizing it or leaving it a slow and terrible death. Of course, you can go "All-Out" if you REALLY express rage for it, and can nuke it for 5 minutes...This is NOT for the Squeamish....I DO know someone who did this, and saw it....It was pretty fucking gross, and being the cat hater I am, I still felt sorry for it. In 30 seconds, it starts kicking and screaming and freaking out (which brings me to the point, you gotta make sure the door can't be opened, and you gotta make sure you don't want the microwave anymore). In 1 minute, it was started to spaz like nothing you've ever seen before, some blood was coming from it's mouth due to internal cuts the Nuking did, all types of seisures and some last moans were following at 2 minutes. At about 2 and a half minutes, the cat was still alive, it's pupils were dialated and it was twitching like someone stuck a Electrolysis gun up it's ass...At 3 minutes, it's almost dead...The smell of the cat would make any mortician throw up, that's why I would suggest alot of open windows and doors and some type of gas mask on. The last two minutes it the cool part...Now that the fucker is dead (for good reason too) it's time to watch the fireworks...I think at around 4 minutes, the cat started popping, it's eyeballs literally popped out of it's sockets, and the blood started to ooze, not a pretty sight..At about, 4 mins 15 seconds, it's fur starts to curl (although it was already crispy) and at about 5 minutes, the whole microwave is one big slaughterhouse. Which brings me to clean up...DON'T! I said earlier, Nuke the cat in a microwave you no longer want to use (not to mention the microwave is probably broken anyway). Just throw the microwave away and chuckle off a couple laughs...Even take poloraids if you want. [ ] *Tennis Ball Bomb #2 1. Gasoline 2. Tennis Ball 3. Piece of Cloth 4. Can of wd-40 First punch a hole in the tennis ball about the size of a nickel. Then simply pour gasoline into the small hole you have punched into the ball. The ball should be filled almost to the top with gasoline. After you have finished that small task, roll up the piece of cloth you have so it will fit into the hole you have made in the ball. Now spray the rolled up cloth with wd-40. Be sure the cloth (when rolled) is about 1.5 feet long so you have enough time to run once lit. Now stick the cloth into the hole you have punched into the ball. You now have what should look like an old fashioned bomb. Now all you have to do next is find a good place to light it and you should be all set. The small explosive could do one of 2 things. It could explode (hopefully) or it could put out quite a shower of fire. [ ] Splatter Bomb 1.Small Jar 2.Piece of cloth 3.Oil 4.Gasoline This small and very simple bomb is the funnest, and most deadly for its size. Simple take 75% gasoline and 25% oil and mix them together in the small jar. Then punch a hole in the lid of the jar (nickel size). Now roll up the cloth and make it like a fuse. Then dip the very tip of the cloth fuse in the mixture of oil and gas. Now screw the lid to the jar (with the hole in it). Insert the cloth fuse with the small area you dipped in the mixture on top (so you can light it). Now go out onto the street and light the fuse, and throw the jar with gas,etc. in the air and run. When the jar hits the street it will break and splatter gas and oil everywhere making a huge fire. The oil will stick to anything causing the gas and oil to burn whatever it hits. Even a small drop of the mixture would burn for about 30 seconds or longer. When the lit fuse makes contact with the mixture watchout! [ ] *Gasoline balloon* 1.Balloon 2.Gasoline 3.Small rubber tube 4.Ability to syfin 5.Sulfer fuse 6.Spray bottle In order to create this you must have to be able to syfin gasoline. Take the rubber tube and put it in your supply of gasoline. Then syfin some gas through the tube. Now quickly! insert the tube into the mouth of the balloon. If you syfined correctly gas should be pouring into the balloon (making it like a water balloon, but only a gas balloon). Once the balloon is as full as you want to get it stop the gas flow and tie the balloon. Now tie the sulfer fuse around the balloon (like you would with a string). Then fill your empty spray bottle half full of gas. When done with that, spray the outside of the balloon with gas. Now set the balloon in a safe open area and light the fuse. When you light this it will make the balloon pop, and when it pops it will either explode or make a hugh wave of gasoline. I have had both happen several times. [*Peroxyacetone*] Peroxyacetone is extremely flammable and shock sensitive Materials: 4ml Acetone 4ml 30% Hydrogen Peroxide 4 drops of concentrated Hydrochloric Acid 150mm Test tube Add 4ml Acetone and 4ml Hydrogen Peroxide to the test tube. Then add 4 drops concentrated Hydrochloric Acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid should begin to appear. If no change is observed, warm the test tube in a water bath at 40 Celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl the slurry and filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at least two hours. To ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and light it (while staying at least a meter away) [*Plastic Explosive*] Ingredients: -Gasoline - 1 Part -Oil - 1 Half part -Styrofoam - 1 1) Melt styrofoam. Remember never at any time let the mixture get too hot. 2) Let it cool to a thick viscosity. 3) Mix 3 Ingredients together in the following order: First add styrofoam, then Oil, then Gas. 4) Mix in a deep pot - Keep mixture away from any type of fire! Do this step with extreme caution. 5) Let the mixture cool to a little bit warmer than room temperature - Around 88 Degrees Farenheit. 6) Mold the mixture how you want. (Different shapes will make it more or less lethal). Optional: You can add nuts, bolts, and screws while mixing, along with gunpowder, 2 M-80'S, or any other type of explosive to make it the "Equivilant of a Molotov Cocktail. Note: The fragments (nuts, bolt, etc. are deadly. They will penetrate a brick wall when the mixture is detonated. DETONATION: 1) THE MIXTURE CAN BE WIRED FOR AN ELECTRIC CHARGE TO BE SENT THROUGH IT, IT WILL DETONATE WITHOUT DOUBT. A REGULAR FUSE CAN BE SENT THROUGH IT ALSO. IF THIS METHOD IS USED, SOME SORT OF TIMER IS RECOMMENDED. [*Plastic Explosive #2*] 1) Mix: 2 Parts Vaseline : 1 Part Gasoline 2) Ignite with an electric charge [*Plastique Explosive from Aspirin*] This explosive is a phenol dirivative. It is toxic and explosive made from picric acid are poisonous if inhaled, ingested, or handled and absorbed through the skin. The toxicity of this explosive restrict's its use due to the fact that over exposure in most cases causes liver and kidney failure and sometimes death if immediate treatment is not obtained. This explosive is a cousin to T.N.T. but is more powerful than it's cousin. It is the first explosive used militarily and was adopted in 1888 as an artillery shell filler. Originally this explosive was derived from coal tar but thanx to modern chemistry you can make this explosive easily in approximately three hours from acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin purified). This procedure involves dissolving the acetylsalicylic acid in warm sulfuric acid and adding sodium or potassium nitrate which nitrates the purified aspirin Band the whole mixture drowned in water and filtered to obtain the final product. This explosive is called trinitrophenol. Care should be taken to ensure that this explosive is stored in glass containers. Picric acid will form dangerous salts when allowed to contact all metals exept tin and aluminum. These salts are primary explosive and are super sensitive. They also will cause the detonation of the picric acid. To make picric acid obtain some aspirin. The cheaper brands work best but buffered brands should be avoided. Powder these tablets to a fine consistancy. @To extract the acetylsalicylic acid from this powder place this methyl alcohol and stir vigorously. Not all of the powder will dissolve. Filter this powder out of the alcohol. Again wash this powder that was filtered out of the alcohol with more alcohol but with a lesser amount than the first extraction. Again filter the remaining powder out of the alcohol. Combine the now clear alcohol and allow it to evaporate in a pyrex dish. When the alcohol has evaporated there will be a surprising amount of crystals in the bottom of the pyrex dish. Take fourty grams of these purified acetylsalicylic acid crystals and dissolve them in 150 ml. of sulfuric acid (98%, specify gravity 1.8) and heat to dissolve all the crystals. This heating can be done in a common electric frying pan with the thermostat set on 150 deg. F. and filled with a good cooking oil. When all the crystals have dissolved in the sulfuric acid take the beaker, that you've done all this dissolving in (600 ml.), out of the oil bath. This next step will need to be done with a very good ventilation system (it idea to do any chemistry work such as the whole procedure and any procedure on this disk with good ventilation or outside). Slowly start adding 58 g. of sodium nitrate or 77 g. of potassium nitrate to te acid mixture in the beaker very slowly in small portions with vigorous stirring. A red gas nitrogen trioxide) will be formed and this should be avoided. The mixture is foam up and the addition should be stopped until the foaming goes down to prevent the overflow of the acid mixture in the beaker. When the potassium nitrate has been added the mixture is allowed to cool somewhat (30-40 deg. C.). The solution should then be dumped slowly into twice it's volume of crushed ice and water. The brilliant yellow crystals will form in the water. These should be filtered out and placed in 200 ml. of boiling distilled water. This water is allowed to cool and then the crystals are then filtered out of the water. These crystals are a very, very pure trinitrophenol. These crystals are then placed in a pyrex dish and places in an oil bath and heated to 80 deg. C. and held there for 2 hours. This temperature is best maintained and checked with a thermometer. The crystals are then powdered in small quantities to a face powder consistency. These powdered crystals are then mixed with 10% by weight wax and 5% vaseline which are heated to melting temperature and poured @into the crystals. The mixing is best done by kneading together with gloved hands. This explosive should have a useful plsticity range of 0-40 deg. C.. The detonation velocity should be around 7000 m/sec.. It is toxic to handle but simply made from common ingredients and is suitable for most demolition work requiring a moderately high detonation velocity. It is very suitable for shaped charges and some steel cutting charges. It is not as good an explosive as C-4 or other R.D.X. based explosives but it is much easier to make. Again this explosive is very toxic and should be treated with great care. AVOID HANDLING BARE-HANDED, BREATHING DUST AND FUMES, AVOID ANY CHANCE OF INGESTION. AFTER UTENSILS ARE USED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF THIS EXPLOSIVE RETIRE THEM FROM THE KITCHEN AS THE CHANCE OF POISONING IS NOT WORTH THE RISK. THIS EXPLOSIVE, IF MANUFACTURED AS ABOVE, AHOULD BE SAFE IN STORAGE BUT WITH ANY HOMEMADE EXPLOSIVE STORAGE OS NOT RECOMENDED AND EXPLOSIVES SHOULD BE MADE UP AS NEEDED. A V O I D CO N T A C T W I T H A L L M E T A L S E X E C E P T T I N [*Plastique Explosive from Bleach*] This explosive is a potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive and explosives of similar composition were used in World War II as the main explosive filler in gernades, land mines, and mortar used by French, German, and other forces involoved in that conflict. These explosives are relatively safe to manufacture. One should strive to make sure these explosives are free of sulfur, sulfides, and picric acid. The presence of these compounds result in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly decompose explosively while in storage. The manufacture of this explosive from bleach is given as just an expediant method. This method of manufacturing chlorate is not economical due to the amount of energy used to boil the solution and cause the 'dissociation' reaction to take place. This procedure does work and yields a relatively pure and a sulfur/sulfide free product. These explosives are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for instigating detonation. To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach (5.25% sodium hypochlorite solution) obtain a heat source (hot plate stove etc.) a battery hydrometer, a large pyrex or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals), and some potassium chloride (sold as salt substitute). Take one bleach, place it in the container and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 g. potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Bring this solution to a boil and boiled until when checked by a hydrometer the reading is 1.3 (if a battery hydrometer is used it should read full charge). When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in the refrigerator until it's between room temperature and 0 deg. C.. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil the solution again until it reads 1.3 on the hydrometer and again cool the solution. Filter out the crystals formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals. Take these crystals that have been saved and mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 g. per 100 ml. water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow it to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. The process if purification is called fractional crystalization. These crystals should be relatively pure potassium chlorate. Powder these to the consistency of face powder (400 mesh) and heat gently to drive off all moisture. Melt five parts vasoline and five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline) and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate (the crystals from the above operation) in a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until immediately mixed. Allow all the gasoline to evaporate. Place this explosive in a cool, dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfide, and phosphorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density (1.3g./cc.) and dipped in wax to water proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. This explosive is really not suited to use in shaped charge applications due to its relatively low detonation velocity. It is comparable to 40% ammonia dynamite and can be considered the same for the sake of charge computation. If the potassium chlorate is bought and not made it is put into the manufacture process in the powdering stages preceding the addition of the wax/vaseline mixture. This explosive is bristant and powerful. The addition of 2-3% aluminum powder increases its blast effect. Detonation velocity is 3300 m/sec.. [*Plastique Explosives From Swimming Pool Chlorinating Compound* This explosive is a chlorate explosive from bleach. This method of production of potassium or sodium chlorate is easier and yields a more pure product than does the plastique explosive from bleach process. In this reaction the H.T.H. (calcium hypochlorite CaC10) is mixed with water and heated with either sodium chloride (table salt, rock salt) or potassium chloride (salt substitute). The latter of these salts is the salt of choice due to the easy crystalization of the potassium chlorate. This mixture will need to be boiled to ensure complete reaction of the ingredients. Obtain some H.T.H. swimming pool chlorination compound or equivilant (usually 65% calcium hypochlorite). As with the bleach process mentioned earlier the reaction described below is also a dissociation reaction. In a large pyrex glass or enamled steel container place 1200g. H.T.H. Band 220g. potassium chloride or 159g. sodium chloride. Add enough boiling water to dissolve the powder and boil this solution. A chalky substance (calcium chloride) will be formed. When the formation of this chalky substance is no longer formed the solution is filtered while boiling hot. If potassium chloride was used potassium chlorate will be formed. This potassium chlorate will drop out or crystalize as the clear liquid left after filtering cools. These crystals are filtered out when the solution reaches room temperature. If the sodium chloride salt was used this clear filtrate (clear liquid after filteration) will need to have all water evaporated. This will leave crystals which should be saved. These crystals should be heated in a slightly warm oven in a pyrex dish to drive off all traces of water (40-75 deg. C.). These crystals are ground to a very fine powder (400 mesh). If the sodium chloride salt is used in the initial step the crystalization is much more time consuming. The potassium chloride is the salt to use as the resulting product will crystalize out of the solution as it cools. The powdered and completely dry chlorate crystals are kneaded together with vaseline in a plastic bowl. ALL CHLORATE BASED EXPLOSIVES ARE SENSITIVE TO FRICTION AND SHOCK AND THESE SHOULD BE AVOIDED. If sodium chloride is used in this explosive it will have a tendancy to cake and has a slightly lower detonation velocity. This (explosive is composed of the following: potassium/sodium chlorate 90% vaseline 10% A The detonation velocity can be raised to a slight extent by the addition of 2-3% aluminum sunstituted for 2-3% of the vaseline. This addition of this aluminum will give the explosive a bright flash if set off at night which will ruin night vision for a short while. The detonation velocity of this explosive is approximately 3200 m/sec. for the potassium salt and 2900 m/sec. for the sodium salt based explosive. [*Portable Grenade Launcher*] If you have a bow, this one is for you. Remove the ferrule from an aluminum arrow, and fill the arrow with black powder (I use grade FFFF, it burns easy)and then glue a shotshell primer into the hole left where the ferrule went. Next, glue a BB on the primer, and you are ready to go! Make sure no one is nearby.... Little shreds of aluminum go all over the place!! [*R.D.X.*] R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives. This is because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is much easier to detonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too severe shock. It is less sensitive than mercury fulminate, or nitroglycerine, but it is still too sensitive to be used alone. R.D.X. can be made by the surprisingly simple method outlined hereafter. It is much easier to make in the home than all other high explosives, with the possible exception of ammonium nitrate. MATERIALS EQUIPMENT hexamine 500 ml beaker methenamine glass stirring rod fuel tablets (50 g) funnel and filter paper concentrated nitric acid (550 ml) ice bath container distilled water (plastic bucket) table salt centigrade thermometer ice blue litmus paper ammonium nitrate 1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps 3-4) and carefully pour 550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker. 2) When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, add small amounts of the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker. The temperature will rise, and it must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or dire consequences could result. Stir the mixture. 3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade, either by adding more ice and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath. Or, ammonium nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold when it is put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the temperature below zero degrees centigrade for at least twenty minutes 4) Pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice. Shake and stir the mixture, and allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter out the crystals, and dispose of the corrosive liquid. 5) Place the crystals into one half a litre of boiling distilled water. Filter the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the litmus paper remains blue. This will make the crystals more stable and safe. 6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry completely using them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as an explosive. 7) Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with 11.1% mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these material together in a plastic bag. This is a good way to desensitize the explosive. 8) H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by weight. it is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight R.D.X. 9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X. after step 5, it should be possible to desensitize the R.D.X. and increase its power, since ammonium nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. Soduim or potassium nitrate could also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the R.D.X. 10) R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed to a density of 1.55 g/cubic cm. [*Spontanious Combustion*] Look for powdered aluminum at a good painting supply. METHOD # 1: Scatter out a few crystals 'of chromic anhydride. Drop on a little ethyl alcohol. It will burst into flame immediately. METHOD # 2: Mix by weight, four parts ammonium chloride, one part ammonium nitrate, four parts powered zinc. Pour out a small pile of this and make a depression on top. Put one or two drops of water in the depression.Stay well back from this. METHOD # 3: Put one gram of powdered potassium permanganate into a paper cup. Drop two drops of glycerine onto it. After a few seconds it will burst into flames. METHOD # 4: Spoon out a small pile of powdered aluminum. Place a small amount of sodium peroxide on top of this. A (volume the size of a small pea is about right. One drop of water will cause this to ignite in a blinding flare. METHOD # 5: Mix by volume 3 parts concentrated sulfuric acid with 2 parts concentrated nitric acid. Hold a dropper of turpentine about 2 feet above the mixture. When drops strike the acid they will burst into flame. [ ] *"AFPO"* NEEDED; Amononium Hydroxide (again) "Fuel Oil(s)(white gasoline works) Gelitin(no, NOT FLAVORED!) Mix the AH with the FUEL OIL, until very thoughly mixed in to a thin liquid, then add the GELITIN, yes, this is a gel explosive, until you "feel it's the right thickness for your work, you can get it thick enough to be solid, use waterproof fuses, with a little NI3 at the end to make sure the stuff goes off with a good boom, THIS IS A VERY STABLE EXPLOSIVE, IT IS ALSO 3 TIMES MORE POWERFUL THAN DYNAMITE. A thin wire with high voltage running through it in the gel makes a good detonater too. Have you ever heard of the millitary high power explosive, NI3? It's 4 to 6 time MORE POWERFUL than dynamite, and, HERE'S HOW TO MAKE IT! needed: IODINE CRYSTALS AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE Put the AH in a GLASS bowl, and disolve the Iodine in it, in a couple of minutes, new crystals will form. They are highly volitile, and illeagal to have,For what ever it's worth. Do not DROP, CRUSH, HEAT, or FUCK with them, take very extreme percausions with them, pad them in an air tight bottle. ONE TEASPOON HAS THE IMPACT POWER OF ONE M-100 FIRECRACKER. [ ] * AMMONIUM PICRATE * Ammonium picrate, also called Explosive D, is another safety explosive. It requires a substantial shock to cause it to detonate, slightly less than that required to detonate ammonium nitrate. It is much safer than picric acid, since it has little tendency to form hazardous unstable salts when placed in metal containers. It is simple to make from picric acid and clear household ammonia. All that need be done is put the picric acid crystals into a glass container and dissolve them in a great quantity of hot water. Add clear household ammonia in excess, and allow the excess ammonia to evaporate. The powder remaining should be ammonium picrate. [*Astrolite G*] "Astrolite G is a clear liquid explosive especially designed to produce very high detonation velocity, 8,600MPS (meters/sec.), compared with 7,700MPS for nitroglycerin and 6,900MPS for TNT...In addition, a very unusual characteristic is that it the liquid explosive has the ability to be absorbed easily into the ground while remaining detonatable...In field tests, Astrolite G has remained detonatable for 4 days in the ground, even when the soil was soaked due to rainy weather" know what that means?....Astrolite Dynamite! To make (mix in fairly large container & outside) Two parts by weight of ammonium nitrate mixed with one part by weight 'anhydrous' hydrazine, produces Astrolite G...Simple enough eh? I'm sure that the 2:1 ratio is not perfect,and that if you screw around with it long enough, that you'll find a better formula. Also, dunno why the book says 'anhydrous' hydrazine, hydrazine is already anhydrous... Hydrazine is the chemical you'll probably have the hardest time getting hold of. Uses for Hydrazine are: Rocket fuel, agricultural chemicals (maleic hydra- zide), drugs (antibacterial and antihypertension), polymerization catalyst, plating metals on glass and plastics, solder fluxes, photographic developers, diving equipment. Hydrazine is also the chemical you should be careful with. The astrolite family of liquid explosives were products of rocket propellant research in the '60's. Astrolite A-1-5 is supposed to be the world's most powerful non-nuclear explosive -at about 1.8 to 2 times more powerful than TNT. Being more powerful it is also safer to handle than TNT (not that it isn't safe in the first place) and Nitroglycerin. [*Astrolite A/A-1-5*] Ok, here's the good part... Mix 20% (weight) aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate, and then mix with hydrazine. The aluminum powder should be 100 mesh or finer. Astrolite A has a detonation velocity of 7,800MPS. You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you,if it happens though, you should flush the area with water. Astrolite A&G both should be able to be detonated by a #8 blasting cap. [*Expedient Grenades*] There are many possibilities in the field of grenade manufacture, but for the most part, when you're dealing with grenades that must be constructed of easily available materials, the quality and the safety of the grenade is reduced dramatically. Here I will deal with this problem, trying to produce a reasonable type of grenade that is relatively safe, can be stored and transported easily, but produces dramatic effects. I strongly suggest that if you find it possible, you are far better off getting a REAL grenade than trying to produce one yourself, but you can be the judge. As always, I want to note that this is all for educational purposes only, and I do not recommend anyone trying any of the following for real. The first thing you need is explosives. If you can't get black powder, or gun powder, or make your own plastic explosives (we know there sure are enough text files floating around to explain how to make all of the above!) than you're really in a for making a grenade of this type. You'll also need a coffee can, a smaller sized can (probably like an orange juice can, or V8), a coat hanger, and a fuse. As for explosives, mercury fulminate is extremely good for this sort of thing. You could probably get together a ton of firecrackers and take out the black powder (if you'r desperate) or get a couple quarter sticks from someone. The explosive goes in the juice can. Don't pack it together too tight. Loose black powder is better than compressed. This is the main explosive. Cut up the coat hanger into little pieces approximately 1/2" long and fill up the coffee can until you can put the juice can in and the top of the juice can is level with the top of the coffee can. If you don't have the time, and need to fill up the space faster, chuck in a couple small rocks or pieces of glass, and stuff like that until you have the bottom of the can filled. Now place the juice can in the coffee can, and center it. Then fill the space around the coffee can with coat hanger stuff until the juice can is relatively stable. Put a model rocket fuse in the explosive in the juice can. Leave (at least) 3 1/2" to light from. If necessary, secure the juice can or the explosive with some masking tape, etc... as long as it doesn't interfere with the action of the grenade. Take the lid of the coffee can and cut a hole so that the fuse is exposed. You now have a fragmentation grenade. It might be a good idea to practice with a football for a while before trying to destroy the neighbor's garage with it. [*Explosive Pen*] Materials Needed 1] One Ball Point `Click` pen 2] Gun Powder 3] 8 or 10 match heads 4] 1 Match stick 5] a little sheet of sand paper (1 1/2" X 2") Procedure 1] Unscrew pen and remove all parts but leave the button in the to in the pen. 2] Stick the match stick in the part of the pen clicker where the other little parts and the ink fill was. 3] Roll sand paper up and put around the match stick that is in the clicker. 4] Put the remaining Match Heads inside the pen, make sure that they are on the inside on the sand paper. 5] Put a small piece of paper or something in the other end of the pen where the ball point comes out. 6] Fill the end with the piece of paper in it with gun powder. The paper is to keep the powder from spilling. (The Finished pen should look like this: Small Paper Clog Gun Powder Matches & Sandpaper \ | | \ | | \ _________________|____________________|________ <_______________________________|_______________|=== / Clicker / Planting The Device ------------------- There are many ways to use this little device. Here are a few of my favorite ways to use this handy little Anti-Personal-Device In School 1] Replace it with a friends pen, it helps if it is the same color Style. But if you get it there and he/she goes to write, watch the sparks fly! 2] You know how all these poor nigs are always asking you for a pen well this is the way to fix it! just give 'em this little pen and I gurantee they will never ask you for another pen again. 3] Replace the teachers pen with it. In The Office No Office experience, unless its the schools office, replace it with the principals or receptionist pens. They'll get a `bang` out of it! [*Fertilizer Bomb*] Materials: A bag of fertilizer Some Cotton Some Starter Fluid (etherous kind) Some Newspaper Fold the newspaper until its in sort of a pocket shape, then fill it up with fertilizer (not too much).. Next, put cotton on top of the fertilizer. Then, pour some starter fluid on it (the fertilizer), wrap up the newspaper (you can use tape). Now this isnt the kind of bomb you leave lying around for a couple days, as it drys out. When you want to use it, just light the edge of the newspaper and throw it. Pretty simple, eh? [*Filler explosive*] 85% sodium chlorate 10% vaseline 5% aluminum powder [*Fire Bomb*] Take carbon disulfide and dissolve white phosphorous in it. Put it in a stoppered bottle and throw it at something you would like to see on fire. When the cs2 evaporates, it leaves a film of phoshorous on what ever it hits, and it starts a fire with the solvent vapors. [*Grain-Elevator Explosion*] Want to try your own 'Grain-Elevator explosion'? Get a candle and some flour.. Light the candle and put some flour in your hand. Try various ways of getting the flour to leave your hand and become dust right over the candle flame. The enormous surface area allows all the tiny dust particles to burn, which they do at about the same time, combining to form a fireball effect. In grain elevators, much the same thing happens.if you can get your hands on some lycopodium powder. This will work much better, creating huge fireballs that are unexpected. [*Impact Mixture*] Materials: 50% red phosphorus 50% sodium chlorate Unlike potassium chlorate,sodium chlorate won't explode spontaneously when mixed with phosphorus. It has to be hit to be detonated. [*Incendiary Mixture*] Materials: 55% aluminum powder (atomized) 45% sodium chlorate 5% sulfur [*Gelatine Explosive from Anti-Freeze*] This explosive is almost the same as the nitro-gelatin plastique except that it is supple and pliable to -10 to -20 deg. C.. Antifreeze is easier to obtain than glycerine and is usually cheaper. It needs to be freed of water before the manufacture and this can be done by treating it with calcium chloride until a specific gravity of 1.12 @ o deg. C. or 1.11 @ 20 deg. C. is obtained. This can be done by adding calcium chloride to the antifreeze and checking with a hydrometer and continue to add calcium chloride proper reading is obtained. The antifreeze is then filtered to remove the calcium chloride from the liquid. This explosive is superior to nitro-gelatin in that it is easier to collidon the IMR smokeless powder into the explosive and that the 50/50 ether ethyl alcohol can be done away with. It is superior in that the formation of the collidon is done very rapidly by the nitroethelene glycol. It's detonation properties are practically the same as the nitro-gelatine. Like the nitro-gelatine it is highly flammable and if caught on fire the chances are good that the flame will progress to detonation. In this explosive as in nitro-gelatine the addition of 1% sodium carbonate is a good idea to reduce the chance of recidual acid being present in the final explosive. The following is a slightly different formula than nitro-gelatine: Nitro-glycol 75% Guncotton (IMR) 6% Potassium Nitrate 14% Flour (baking) 5% In this process the 50/50 step is omitted. Mix the potassium nitrate with the 9nitro-glycol. Remember that this nitro-glycol is just as sensitive to shock as is nitroglycerin. The next step is to mix in the flour and sodium carbonate. =Mix these by kneading with gloved hands until the mixture is uniform. This kneading should be done gently and slowly. The mixture should be uniform when